Blai5e reacted to Oshino Shinobu in Can 2nd bios be switched while running 1st bios?
You can boot into one BIOS, then once it's loaded you can switch to the other and flash the other one.
It's important to note that the BIOS is loaded from and then not touched once it's read from. So if you boot into one BIOS, then switch, you're still running on the first BIOS which was loaded into memory but if you flash the BIOS from there, it will write to whichever is selected by the switch.
Blai5e reacted to Stahlmann in Advice on rejigging custom loop in Lian Li O11 dynamic XL
First off, it looks like all your fans are set as exhaust, which likely is one of the reasons why you need loud fans for proper cooling. I'd go for bottom and top intake, rear exhaust in your case.
If noise is a concern that it was the wrong choice to go with thick rads to begin with. I'm pretty much using the same loop layout in my O11D. But i'm using a 360 slim rad with NF-A12x25 fans as intake on the bottom and the same setup as exhaust on the top. If you plan on running low-rpm, a slimmer radiator will result in better temps than a thicker one. If you don't want to change out your rads, go for push/pull. Thick rads have much more resistance than slimmer ones and will need much more airflow (so basically more noise) to reach the higher cooling potential.
Also, the QL fans are pretty much the same as the LL series. So if you want to reduce noise, they won't make a difference. In fact they're even slightly worse on radiators. So you'll likely have them running louder to have the same cooling.
Blai5e reacted to Ravendarat in 1st time trying custom loop and just have a quick question
Loop order is irrelevant, just make sure that if any of your blocks are directional you get those straight.
Blai5e reacted to Levent in An idea to make GPUs available again & get rid of the miners.
You are buying a GPU lmao, not uranium.
Blai5e reacted to YouSirAreADudeSir in RMAing in these troubled times
Well. I sent the card back to Overclockers for testing and they too found it was faulty. They sent it to Palit and said wiat 28 days i didn't hear anything for 28 days waited another couple just to be sure and emailed Overclockers they came back and offered an Asus Tuf RTX 3060 as a replacement. Which i took. Had it in my hands 2 days later.
Blai5e got a reaction from Motleyguts in Was curious about Newegg Shuffle...
@Motleyguts - these bundles are often not the fault of the retailer. Wholesalers/distributers are requiring retailers/system integrators to purchase of multiple motherboards (or other slower moving stock) simple to order a single 30-series GPU in locations around the world. Bit of a crappy practice by the wholesaler/distributor but I don't really blame the retailer for bundling even if it is often less than desirable for the end user.
Blai5e reacted to Eveshade in Inwin Polaris Fans, FIRE HAZARD, Final Update, Saturn Review
Update, from In Win
" Thank you for your patience, after internal investigation, this is the only case reported in our RMA records. We have no stocks now , however, if consumers have concerns of their Polaris RGB fans, they can provide the invoice and contact: email@example.com. (we have different platforms to receive consumer's feedback, and we will respond). We apologize for your bad experience."
They have also contacted me so they can send me some of the saturn fans. I gotta say, many companies could learn a lot on customer service from In Win.
In Win Polaris Fans pose a fire risk, and should be replaced. The wires in the frame of the fan can touch the screws and short. This has happened to me.
Yesterday I went to boot my PC. On boot i got a CPU Fan Error. I was using these fans on my AIO. I look over and indeed they are not spinning. I remove the radiator from the case boot the PC and the fans spin. So with the PC still running i start to remount the rad. As i do I see a spark from the screw to the case. So I shut down the PC, screw down the rad, reboot, and no fan spin. Then it occurs to me. The fan mounting screws run by the 8pin wiring for the daisy chain wires inside the frame of the fan. I must have a short. So i remove the screws near the wires, and with the rad mounted boot again. I have fan spin. The wires had shorted through the fan mounting screw, through the rad, and rad screw to the case. Thankfully my cases and PSU grounding worked as designed(Thank you Lian Li[O11 Dynamic] and Corsair[RM850x]) and i have no other failures. So i have replaced the fans with ones that do not use this system.
Today I disassembled the Polaris Fans and found that 1 fan had a wire that was cut trough, and another showed some chaffing on some of the insulation. As you can see in the photos the wires can obstruct the screw holes. The vibrations of the fan running caused the insulation to chaff and short. 5 of the 8 wires show damage in this fan. I also found some signs of chaffing on another wire in a second fan.
Based on my sample size of three fans inspected 1 had outright failed, and a second signs of damage. This has me concerned that this may be a more widespread issue. That other PC owners may have these fans with the same fire risk. I am also concerned that this design flaw may not be limited to the Polaris, but may exist in all In Win fans with the 8 Pin Daisy Chain such as the In Win Saturn(IW-FN-ASN120-3PK) that looks to use the same system. I do not have one to disposable so I cannot be sure of this. (In Win has provided photos of the internals of the Saturn fan, and I do not believe these pose a risk.)
I hope that word of this gets back to In Win and they investigate. Do the right thing and work with regulators to recall the defective design.
So I have heard back from In Win.
"First of all, we are sorry to hear what happened, but we are glad to know everything is fine on your side. For Saturn (IW-FN-ASN120-3PK), we can assure you that we are using a new 6-pin design for this model, so no worry for the wire issue. As for Polaris, please allow us some time for investigating internally, then we will report here again. Thank you for your patience." https://forum.in-win.com/forum/general-discussion/hardware/12068-polaris-fans-fire-hazard
So I received the Saturn Fans and have them installed. I have to say I'm happy with them. Knowing that they do not have the same design flaw as the Polaris fans give me peace of mind. I have to give credit to In Win they have been excellent and meet my gold standard for customer care. Not many companies do this. Thanks you In Win
So here are my thoughts on the Saturn fans(ASN120).
The fans ship in a simple box(what more does it need to be.) There is no manual in the box, but a QR code on the side to find one online. +less packaging -If you cannot scan it you are kinda left to figure it out. The fans ship in a protective plastic sleeve the to me felt smooth and soft. It kinda felt premium.
Installing them wasn't to hard. It took some time, but that more had to do with me removing previous fans, with all their cables, and redoing a bunch of cable management i had going on. Once all the clutter was dealt with The Saturn fans were easy enough. The way they set up their daisy chained cables made things easy. Each set of three comes with a controller you have to use. I didn't like the idea until I started using, but once I did I realized how much this made things easier. Each controller can take up to 6 fans, since i have 9 I had to use 2 controllers. You can daisy chain the controllers together as each has a 5v ARGB out. Another neat feature is that if you do not have an ARGB header on your motherboard you can ad a switch to the controller so you can change the effects remotely, for example you could plug the reset switch of you case in the the controller and change the lighting effects that way. With each controller taking SATA power I'm not worried about plugging all 9 fans into one fan header and all the fans into one ARGB header. I could only see an issue here if you do not have SATA power plugs to spare. With the magnetic backing on the controller mounting it was a breeze. The only real downside to the design is with the controller design is it is 16mm thick. I could see this being an issue on cheaper or older cases that don't have much room behind the back panel.
The fans are an airflow focused PWM Fan. With both higher airflow and static pressure then a Noctua NF-F12 They perform well. To do this they are a little noisy at full speed at 35dB(A). After playing around with my fan curves I have found a happy medium, and are keeping my 5900x at 42C under light load with only a minor hum, and even under load, the noise level is acceptable. Running the Horizon Zero Dawn Benchmark my CPU never exceeded 70C wail maintaining 4.5GHZ all core, and i my fans set to ramp up high after 75C. In other words, they have a lot of potential performance that the average user wont need and can safely be set to 50% or so for most average use cases. Heaven help you though if you plug them into a DC fan header.
Each fan has 8 LEDs and the do a fine job. There are hot spots, but this isn't unusual. The clear fan frame with it's texture catches the light better then the Polaris ever did and in my opinion looks nice. Also with the clear frame they throw a lot of light illuminating my case better then my previous fans ever did.
Over all I am quiet happy with the Saturn fans. Most importantly the do their main function very well, and they do it in style. The noise can be controlled if you have some sort of fan controller wail still dong a good job of cooling your PC. The looks are subjective, but I like them. They do a good job of adding some bling to my case. With their approach to wiring it was a lot simpler to manage then other ARGB fans i have used and the controller adds some useful functions. The truly impressive detail is the price. At time of writing this i and get a 3 pack of the Saturn fan for the same price as 1 Noctua NF-F12 of $34.99CND(the Saturns are on sale, normal price is 44.99). Comparing it to the Cooler Master MF120 Halo for 99.99 CND(witch has lower air flow and static pressure) these are a bargain. Regardless of what your budget these are good fans. The only reason not to go with them is if you don't like the look of the clear frame, or can only run your fans are 100%.
Blai5e got a reaction from lerodemmy in Can my GPU be water cooled easily?
@lerodemmy - if you take your time and watch a watercooling block install video specific to your GPU you'll have a better idea of your confidence level.
That said, there's a few things to watch out for (I have the EK Vector 3090 FTW3 3080/3090 block & backplate on my 3090 FTW3 Ultra)...
When taking the card apart, be careful and try not to force or unduly bend the PCB (there's been a number of users who have bricked their cards albeit the jury is still out on who is to blame). Wiggle it about without bending the PCB until you can break the seal formed by the thermal paste/putty. Once separated, disconnect all 3 fan headers and the RGB header found near the top right of the card. Any thermal pads that remain on the PCB should be removed placed where they mate on the cooler or backplate. Place all the screws you removed into a ziploc bag and store the screws and old cooler in a safe place in case it is needed at a later date. You need to get rid of the thermal putty from the VRMs. The easiest way is to use shop cloths to wipe off the excess and then Isopropyl alcohol and old (soft bristle) tooth brush to loosen the remainder and clean up with shop cloths. If you are installing the EK backplate (the original backplate can work if you drill out a few of the holes on the backplate), check what screws are required to attach it and leave those out for the time being. Install the EK supplied screws to fix the waterblock (taking note to the previous bullet point). For the backplate: (if using EK's version) - cut the thermal pads reasonably precisely and make sure you use the correct thickness pads as per the instructions, not doing so may cause the the PCB to warp when installing backplate.
Hope this helps.
Blai5e got a reaction from BuckGup in What should I use for CPU cleaning insteam of isopropyl alcohol?
@Goldi----- - Get some KFC towelettes (or alcohol wipes from the chemist) if you can't get ISO.
Blai5e reacted to LogicalDrm in Buy from Asia, GPUS and MB
*** Thread locked ***
This is pretty much obvious statement at this point. Stocking problems in US/Canada and price issues in Europe or Aus/NZ are complicated things. Saying "buy from X country/area" is not that simple thing. Just imports and taxes are one thing, warranty is another. So enjoy what you can.
Blai5e reacted to bowrilla in 'High' Coolant Temps - Rads/ Fans not enough or something else?
Those little spinners are worth nothing. All they show is that there is some flow. You cannot visually determine how much and even little flow will spin it fast enough for you not to be able to see anything.
30% is not much flow but it should not have that much if an impact on the overall temps, especially since it's a D5.
PBO is pretty aggressive with the voltage. That will obviously increase heat output but it should not lead to those high coolant temps.
That depends on flow. The lower the flow the higher the heat gradient. Ideally you'd have 2 sensors: one directly in front of the radiators and one directly after. Then you can see that once you drop flow far enough the heat gradient grows probably to values in the range of 5-8K. If flow is sufficiently high the heat gradient shrinks to about 1K. At that point more flow does not give you any significant advantage but it will increase noise. With the blocks it's similar: high flow means lower heat gradient between inlet and outlet ports, low flow means higher heat gradient.
Considering you have 2 360 radiators, coolant temps well beyond 40°C (almost 50°C) however indicate something else is the culprit because flow alone should not play such a big of a role. This means that there's probably nothing majorly wrong with the heat transfer to the coolant. The issue is rooted with dumping the heat energy into the air.
Of course, temp sensors can varry in precision and small production differences can lead to misreadings (like more or less epoxy, 1-2mm variance in probe position. The probe itself is also not calibrated. I have 2 sensors (one XSPC plug type and one in my aquacomputer MPS flowmeter) and they usually are 1-2K apart.
Taking all of that into account your reading might be 4-6K higher than the actual average coolant temps considering you're measuring directly at a heat source, potentially lower than ideal flow and variances in sensor accuracy.
I'd probably do the same as @Stahlmannsuggested and go for the Phanteks Halos frames. Personally I prefer the look of dark blades with an led ring around over white blades with everything being lit.
Whatever you do though, I'd use push pull configs on radiators >45mm thickness. Which is why I wouldn't use rads that thick. Their performance benefits can only be achieved with more fans and high revs. The best 30mm radiators (HWlabs GTS) match the performance of midrange 45mm rads even in push pull and match the performance of midrange 56mm in push or pull (iirc). Even the best >56mm radiators need push pull to offer significant advantages over the best 30mm radiators. I rather spend 20 bucks more on the best rad but save the expenses for 2-3 fans per radiator and have ultimately less noise sources with less overall noise.
Well, first off I'd unplug the side fans that you think create too much positive pressure. I doubt it but check that first.
Next is setting the lowest pump setting to something like 40-50% which should not change anything noticeable in regards to noise.
If that doesn't help: tilting and shaking to make sure everything is properly bled.
Then go to the radiator fans. If you have more fans around, through them on for a push pull config. That should improve performance. You don't need to screw them in just laying them on top should be enough as long as there are no huge gaps. Not ideal but should work.
Blai5e reacted to jones177 in Can't find any 3rd party reviews...
People mainly go there to complain.
It is also a great place to go if you are thinking about an RMA since the site is monitored by their product manager.
With posts like "3070 caught on fire" and "Major issues with 3090" it is hard to call it a fanboy site.
Blai5e reacted to For Science! in Should I do this when changing fluid?
I've definitely burned LED strips doing it the way you describe it, so I would consider definitely worth unplugging everything.
A good investment for you may be an external molex power supply, they're less than 20 euros, and then you can power the pump by itself without needing to unplug anything else.
Blai5e reacted to Tristerin in Found Out Some Interesting Info on 3080's Calling Local Computer Shops
No one, and I mean no one, repeat no one, is getting screwed. These are choices to own these commodities. These arent a necessity they are an option.
Blame the consumerism. Not the manufacturer, they are going to charge whatever the market allows for the most amount of profit.
Blai5e got a reaction from Stahlmann in EVGA FTW3 Ultra 3080 annoying problems
@Big-Boy - never use cables on a PSU unless you are sure they are pin-to-pin compatible with your power supply. Don't rely on the fact that it can be plugged into the PSU as even within the same OEM, the cable may not wired identically. Please see this document from Gamers Nexus or this more recent video also from Gamers Nexus.
Your PSU is weak for a high tier 3080, as a minimum you should be using a quality gold rated 750W PSU. EVGA has a thread that contains a list of PSUs working with EVGA 30-series cards and apart from a Corsair SF-600 (and I'm willing to bet he has a 3070 or 3060TI), the lowest PSU listed is a 750W.
When the fans are ramping up and down, are you seeing any red LEDs near the PCI power connectors on the card lighting up? There are three LEDs (corresponding to the 3 PCI power connections to the card) and any lighting up indicates there is a power problem.