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Owen Chief

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About Owen Chief

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Glasgow, Scotland
  • Gender


  • CPU
    Intel i9 9900k
  • Motherboard
    Z390 Aorus Master
  • RAM
    32gb Corsair 3200mhz
  • GPU
    Aorus 2080Ti Xtreme Waterforce
  • Case
    Lian-Li O11 Dynamic XL
  • Storage
    Samsung 970 Evo 500gb NVMe M.2, Samsung 860 evo 500gb SSD, 4TB Seagate Storage
  • PSU
    Corsair RM750i
  • Display(s)
    Asus Rog Swift 144hz - PG278Q
  • Cooling
    EK Custom Loop - D5 hard tubing
  • Keyboard
    Ducky Year of the pig 65% with pudding Keycaps
  • Mouse
    Finalmouse Air58
  • Sound
    Sennheiser GSP600 with GSX1000 DAC
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro

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  1. I turned vcore voltage down, finally got it stable at 1.28 which may have helped Actually what I done was really tighter the hell out of the CPU block, previously it sounded like going further may break it but there was still so much more to tighten it would appear.. Even as I was pretty nervous doing it. I used pliers because the heatsinks on the z390 master are so close you struggle to get your fingers/hand in to do it and I really tightened it all up. Temps dropped by around 20 degrees now gaming in valorant is mid 40's max, Warzone is around mid 50s to
  2. Hi Guys, I'm looking for suggestions as to why my temps are what I feel to be higher than expected. i run a EK custom hard tubing loop https://imgur.com/a/RwWCYDv - to understand the setup, any questions or if you feel I have missed anything I'm happy to answer intel i9 9900k - stock speeds/turbos Aorus Xtreme 2080ti 32gb corsair vengeance 3200mhz Z390 Aorus master Lian-Li O11 Dynamic XL case EK stuff used is : Blocks EK-Quantum Kinetic TBE 300 D5 - pump/res combo EK velocity CPU block EK vector G
  3. I'd say you now have an expensive door stop sadly I wouldn't risk filing a closed loop back up manually, I'd say you will never get close to the same performance that it would offer. However should you want to risk it, you could try and fill it back up as best you can, seal it on tightly, tilt and shake it around to get the air bubbles gone.. open it back up and top off coolant, rince and repeat a few times until you're fairly confident there is little to no air pockets left. It's not a typical reservoir where the air pockets will rise so any air bubbles left in that thing will
  4. I did hard tubing for my first watercooling loop and never looked back, it just looks and feels far cleaner spend a few quid getting the bending tools/kit to do 90's and you can manage most of it by hand if your competent enough, I had to use 1 2x45 degree fitting for one out of sight fitting but the rest I managed to practice and find my way around and with the use of EK leak tester I didn't put my system at any risk. 1 Particular bend was a bit of a pain but managed to pull it off on the 2nd attempt. I could have spun the res around but wanted it to look cleaner with the front fa
  5. personally I used ML120 on my radiator because I wanted to, I wouldn't recommend them for a 60mm radiator for sure but for a 20-38mm I've had no issues.. they're nicer to look at and if the fins are quite spaced out on the rad you won't have much issues. My temps have been fine edit: I'm not saying you should get ML120, merely pointing out that I didn't use SP specific fans much like you're asking, after that its personal preference. Personally I prefer the notos but its your build
  6. First and foremost W-L thanks for taking the time to reply to me I do appreciate you going out your way been fairly busy recently with other things so got around to doing the following that you suggested to try eliminate this: I tried using molex instead of the pwm using an adapter I had delivered but the same issue with the static/high pitch noise I then ordered a replacement reservoir unit from amazon, as stripping out the pump is possible without having to drain it if you just lay it down flat and screw on the pump, that process was fine however the other pump h
  7. Witcher keycap finally came yesterday to complete the rig lol
  8. Could be an idea, I did look at getting the thermaltake Riing Trio's instead as they still look beautiful from both sides but find thats a major headache as then its just running more RGB software from different vendors.. the ram/led strips are corsair and I already have the commander pro/lightning node pro etc not to mention that 6 fans will set you back around £230 ($296) so I quickly started to disregard that option.. plus it slightly annoyed me they used a molex connection in their hub instead of a sata, as that means even more cables having to come from the PSU.. I mean who even uses Mole
  9. I'll try fish out the PWM to molex adapter I bought recently to fill up the loop and give that a try later Thanks W-L
  10. maybe its just my rose tinted glasses but i did need to drain my system to RMA the cpu block (light issues) and change over the radiator.. now getting the distro block in question empty proved rather difficult and the best way I found ot do it was instead of going blue in the fact trying to blow a bit of pressure through with my mouth.. well basically i attached the EK leak tester and I used a pump to blow air to force it out.. I don't remember the static noise being quite as bad as it was last night to the point i was getting so strung out.. I wonder could that have da
  11. I've been pretty lucky with no coil whine since a psu from 10 years ago and then a GPU i had years later I believe it was an old radeon. Since then I've been lucky (albeit I RMA the graphics card under my 14 day return and got a different one which solved it) (Having to disable c1e on the bios aside that let off a super static high pitch noise in the last year) What would be the implications of muffling or stifling this noise? I am guessing I need to not cover the back of it due to heat dissipation? having my hand over the back of the pump it completely silences the st
  12. this is the pump that came with the Lian Li o11 distro block (https://www.ekwb.com/news/o11d-distro-plate-g1-the-result-of-perfect-collaboration-with-lian-li/), this is my first custom loop and its making a high pitched sound.. its almost like a static noise at times.. I have managed to isolate it as if I put my hand over the back of the unit it completely silences it Is this normal? the whole point of going water cooled was to do with silence for me and having a high pitched whine sure is spoiling that. I've tried turning the pump speed down which does help a little bit (but also
  13. lightly tap the tubes with a screwdriver or pen and watch the tiny bubbles float away. I had that on my first fill (albeit not quite as extreme as this) but they shifted pretty fast after I tapped around the tubes I would agree this looks more like residue to have as many but give it a try and see what happens
  14. I have set up a custom loop in the Lian Li, these photos are actually a few days old as I returned the bottom radiator and opted instead for a push pull EK PE 360 rad instead of the XE.. (also the cpu block lighting was faulty so thats now replaced last night, i just didnt get a chance to take a picture) the reason being the hot air was being dumped onto my desk as I couldnt run push pull with the XE, that is neither here nor there.. but gets me into my main issue: since Ive changed to push pull I've had to flip the ML120 around so im now staring at the back which in principle is fine but now
  15. Hi Mick, I know its a bit late but it all fitted great, and i just wanted to say thanks, I love this case and im glad I stuck with it. It was a little bit close but i still have 1.5cm of space and the ambient and all other temps are great so it has no effect and I didnt have to put fans on the outside. I took your advice and changed to 3x 120 fans at front (added a seperate one above the 240mm radiator that came with the aorus 2080ti) and a larger 140mm exhaust to the rear of the case Take care buddy