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About Darkroe

  • Title
  • Birthday Nov 24, 1994

Contact Methods

  • Discord
  • Steam
  • Twitch.tv
  • Twitter

Profile Information

  • Location
    CT, USA
  • Gender
  • Interests
    Building Computers, Digital Artwork, Drawing, Sci-Fi Story Writing, Gaming
  • Biography
    I like to go on short walks down a beachfront talking about computers, sci-fi, and SCIENCE. Yes, I'm a nerd and I love it.
  • Occupation
    College Student


  • CPU
    AMD FX-6350 Vishera
  • Motherboard
    ASUS M599FX PRO R2.0
  • RAM
    16GB DDR3 1600 MHz GSkill
  • GPU
  • Case
    Thermaltake Overseer RX-I
  • Storage
    120 GB SanDisk SSD PLUS & Western Digital 1TB 7200rpm
  • PSU
    Rosewill RD500S 80+ Certified 500 W
  • Cooling
    Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
  • Keyboard
    Logitech K120
  • Mouse
    Logitech M510
  • Operating System
    Windows 8.1

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  1. Okay I found the solution, but I have NO IDEA why it changed in the first place: I asked Microsoft Support for help (which STRANGELY worked in this case) and the automated bot came back with something about display configuration, so I typed "display configuration reverts to one screen only windows 10" into google and was presented with the "Windows Logo Key + P" shortcut. This leads to Windows 10's display configuration side tab where my settings were set to "PC Screen Only" for some reason. I changed it to "Extend" and VOILA! Problem solved! However, I noted that in the Dis
  2. New report: the second monitor shows the windows icon when loading in after turning on the computer, but as soon as windows reaches the login screen, the second monitor displays nothing
  3. The only port the Acer monitor uses (the one Windows can't use as a second monitor for some reason) is an HDMI port, which worked fine until the incident, and still works fine if the Acer monitor is the only one connected to my GPU
  4. Monitors are an Acer S220HQL and a Dell 1920 x 1200 monitor (whose model number I do not know)
  5. Ryzen 5 1600 RX 580 GB 32 GB 2666MHz RAM ASUS Crosshair VI Hero Motherboard 2 x 1 TB SSDs (1 for OS 1 for Data Storage) Attached is an image: it sees the monitor but can't do anything with it now. If the second monitor is, instead, my main monitor (ie: I unplug my other monitor and only have this second monitor plugged in) it works fine.
  6. I was doing a Power Point presentation for class on Zoom, using only 1 screen. I plug in my second screen after the presentation is done, it is working fine. I exit out of Power Point. Suddenly screen flickers and now I can't use my second monitor. Either monitor works fine as my main monitor, but my computer cannot use both simultaneously anymore. Any idea what happened?
  7. I just bought a Team MP33 NVMe 1TB SSD. I tried formatting it in gpt, but that failed, and sometimes succeeded, but when it succeeded it reported back 2048GB, and when it failed it listed the drive's proper storage capacity of ~950GB, and sometimes it wouldn't format and was listed at 1023MB. I am at a loss of what to do. I have tried editing BIOS settings. I have tried re-seating the SSD. Nothing works.I even tried reinstalling the NVMe driver. Does anyone have any ideas as to what I may be doing wrong? I don't want to RMA it only to have the same issues again. For reference, my sys
  8. I already did all of this. As I said I used the Windows Media Creation tool to create the bootable USB drive. It is literally using the Windows Media Creation tool's software, from that website, from microsoft, to make the USB drive a Windows installation media. The issue is not the windows installation media, as I have used it countless times before to install windows onto other drives. The issue is that this particular drive cannot have windows installed, nor can it be partitioned or formatted for some reason and is also read incorrectly in terms of data capacity sometimes.
  9. Yes, I literally said I used a bootable USB to install windows. I made that bootable USB with the USB media creation tool. That's where the errors come from: the tool indicating it can't install.
  10. So I've been trying to install a fresh copy of Windows 10 on the new Team MP33 NVMe SSD I got. I put it into the slot of my Asus Crosshair VI motherboard, and then tried using a bootable USB to install windows. However, I am met with the following: Error code 0x80300024 when trying to install Windows onto the drive after getting to the installation and seeing the drive listed properly. I attempted to format the drive to gpt and mbr but was met with a "Virtual Disk Service Error: The Object Is Not Found." Using the "detail disk" command yielded everything about the drive, and it was not
  11. Yes, and that did not work either. I am getting more stumped the more things I try. I might try it again since I did a complete Windows reinstall (and it's STILL happening)
  12. Doesn't act up on any other system, phone or otherwise, which makes this even more odd since it's acting up across 2 different WiFi cards
  13. So I recently had a power loss at my house from a recent storm. I have a surge protector, so no big deal. Well, not so much. Now I randomly am disconnected from the internet (Wi Fi) and I have to forcefully hit disconnect and reconnect every time. And every time I hit reconnect, it connects instantly. I wanted to go back to streaming, but with my stream cutting out every five minutes, I can't. I don't know what to do. I tried reinstalling drivers and programs (even deleting the programs out of the registry, which did nothing to help so I just loaded the registry I backed up before I
  14. Basically, as long as the RGB fans have 4 pin (12V) and not 3 pin (5V) RGB connectors (which are separate from the fan's power connectors), then you should be able to connect your fans to your RGB headers.
  15. I recently bought and installed an M.2 intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200 card into my Asus Crosshair Hero VI motherboard, and it works perfectly. However, it is currently held in place vertically by hot glue, and I was wondering if there was a different and more practical solution to keep the Wi-Fi card secure. Since it is mounted vertically into the M.2 Wi-Fi slot, I was thinking there may be some way to purchase a metal housing to hold the Wi-Fi card in, that also mounts to the motherboard (there appear to be two holes around the M.2 Wi-Fi card slot on the motherboard meant for some kind of M.