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About gunzidiot

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  1. Ooops Totally provided the wrong link for this , meant to link the newer gigabit switch. (Though atm my isp is giving me 70mbps) ok i have changed my selection to their main ap's Ok so im guessing this ap would better suit ? Ok i am no graphic designer but this is the rough house layout as it currently is with the nighthawk (doors on corners/angles and i couldn't get the tool to do what i needed) , the separate dwelling is the hut. This is what i am suggesting for the placement of the 2 aps. I live in the UK so its bricks and motor for the supporting wa
  2. Thanks for the response. I am comfortable setting up more complex solutions,i have done so before. I'm not looking for ease of use (although its always a bonus). I'm more interested in maximising my range / speed. From experience would you say the range of the mesh networks compare to the SME solutions available ?
  3. Howdy fellow nerds. Since this pandemic thing has moved me to a permanent WFH support role i have decided its time to sort out the elephant in the house. AKA The terrible Wifi range. I currently live in a small bungalow, but even then my nighthawk router is struggling to get from the living room to the garden hut the opposite side of the house (Approx 25-30 meters away). My Budget is £240 and frankly i am torn between solutions and i'm no network engineer, so some advice would be appreciated. Solution 1 (SME Setup) : 1. TP-Link POE Switch
  4. Time to cut myself a nice big slice of humble pie ! Just popped back over to my mates place to have another look at this problem. RTFM and discovered the sata ports are in a different order to what they physically look like on the board, turns out the drive was in slot 1 after all... which is obvs disabled due to m.2 being used.... DOH! Sure enough, plugged into slot 2 and the drive appeared in windows. Thanks j0eyaces for this suggestion, would never have checked this if it wasn't for you! Problem Solved!
  5. Yeah im aware of m.2 drives disabling some sata ports and therefore installed it on port 4, i would have expected the bios to have an issue if this was the problem, but like i say it was picked up by the bios and it installed windows on said m.2 drive....
  6. Hello All ! I have a bit of an odd one, this weekend i was building a new gaming rig for a good friend and colleague. All is going well, system built, posting fine, so i open up the brand new Lite-On - iHAS124-14 disk drive and pop in my windows 10 disk. Windows installs from the disk drive absolutely fine, can hear the thing trying to take off ...... Once windows has installed however i go to pop in the motherboard driver disk, i hear it spin up but windows does not detect the disk and on later inspection the drive. I was under the impression ( and have been for a w
  7. i have to admit as i have been watching the LTT videos it did seem progressively easier as the years have gone by, i have taken a look at that build you put up. Made a few changes, mainly based on preference. also upped the PSU seeing as the Vive uses a million and one connections: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Type Item Price CPU AMD - Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7 GHz 8-Core Processor £289.99 @ Amazon UK CPU Cooler be quiet! - Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler
  8. Yeah i thought as much psu wise, i guess i was still in the "better safe than sorry" mind set i get into with psu's sometimes. The reason i am not going for a higher clock on the ram is simply because i cba with overclocking and most boards state that these higher frequency ram modules require over clocking ("o.c "is always next to these frequency's) , i'm looking for no fuss plug and play at this point. unless i'm being dumb and i can just straight up plug a 3000Mhz module in a compatible board without dicking about in the bios?
  9. Ok so what would you suggest i do to get my current rig back to its "As New" standard?, everything just feels slow to load, and imo i used to be able to run way more in the past than i do now, i suspect the main reason for this is that i'm still using 8GB DDR3 1333Mhz in 2018, but is there any point dropping £120 bucks on a ram upgrade on an older rig like this ? Plus having this current rig in the living room to stop the vr pilgrimage every weekend has its appeals....
  10. Hi LTT Community!, I am still new here so go easy on me, this is only my second post. As the January sales are out in force I am currently thinking of upgrading my Gaming / Work rig, its been a dream over the years however i'm now finding windows 7 (I reverted back from 10) becomes laggy when i have more than a few programs running at once; say a few chrome tabs, discord,a lightweight game such as overwatch and maybe a game launcher left open in the background. My rig is used for both gaming and work, I am a operations and support guy based in a software company i
  11. I have been a lurker on youtube for a while now, love the videos. just thought id pop my head above the water and say hi! Bit about me, I'm an operations / support engineer based in the South of the UK. My current set up is: - Thermaltake Suppressor F51 Case With Side Panel - Gigabyte GA-X79-UD3-rev-1 Mobo - Intel i7-4820k 3.7Ghz - 8GB DDR3 1333Mhz (2x4GB Duel Channel) - Palit GTX-1060 6GB - Samsung 250gb SSD - Seagate Firecuda 2TB SSHD - Cooler Master Hyper 212 CPU cooler Thanks, Look forward to chatting to some