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Posts posted by PixelPol

  1. ZX Spectrum 48K (from Sinclair Research, 1982)  is the first which I owned. Learned BASIC programming there, made my first "graphics" (1985 or so, I was a lad) and created some small games. But really, first thing I gamed on, before all that, were the arcade machines, in pubs, etc. Really low pixels tho. At friends' homes, besides Amstrads and C64s, the previous to the AT (286, 386, etc), the XT computers. Those with green-only or orange-only screens and 5.25 floppy disks. By then we were using a bit all that at a time: the arcade machines, and all those different "computers" at friends/family homes. 

    My father did use the punched cards for data, at his job, back then.


    Someone who used to earn some bucks by adapting (weirdly, but worked, tons of silicon) arcade machines joysticks and buttons (the whole panel) made it for my spectrum, so kind of had an amazing system if wasn't the fact that the Amiga 500 and 2000 were the real thing, ahead of its time with multiple cores, and being quite a station for graphics (and music) creation (sigh) ; that was what I had really dreamed to have. Deluxe Paint II and Deluxe Paint Animator were absolute jewels for pixel art.


    Then the AT became a reality at homes, and I got my 286. Expanding the RAM and optimizing I made it last so many years (till '91 lol, my father used it even longer with Wordperfect). I was not able to get a 386 (not even SX) neither 486, I jumped directly to a Pentium, then Celeron, then Pentium 4, and so on.  :D :D. Time flies.

  2. On 4/11/2020 at 11:16 PM, xg32 said:

    if your mobo has 4 ram slots the optimal setup is 4x8gb with low CL, and make sure you optimize the timings.

    Wait a minute... Excuse my supreme ignorance ...artist, not so versed in hardware, only in what I see my tasks do better (ie, lots of RAM for heavy load in photoshop, fast single core in that one, many cores in Blender, good 8GB VRAM card in Davinci, etc). But is 4x8 still dual channel ? I have read everywhere that for Ryzen is gotta be dual channel. I am going (planning a rig) for a 3900X, 3200mhz CL16 memory, 2060 S 8Gb or 1660 S (the latter for replacing and selling in October... The former to keep it. Depending on final budget and/or getting or not certain set of gigs for Davinci). And dunno why I thought it HAD to be 2x16 , not 4x8, to be dual channel. That quad channel would make it perform worse or not supported well.


    Another idea to stick to budget is 3700X, 2060 super (ideally Radeon VII - a beast in benchmarks in my stuff- if getting some crazy ebay offer..700+ eu is too much for me), but still 32 GB, as my workflows do see the best bang for the buck in more memory. A pity that 64 GB (ZB, AE and PS heavy print stuff eat lots of ram) would make me lower too much other components to stay on budget.  Also, I 'd love to leave room for another 2x16, for a total 64gb (but that globally wouldn't be dual channel?). And there's there the thing of Autumn with a ton of new stuff released... I know am gonna get mad then, but current machine is not cutting it, and gotta work faster...

  3. Is rare that I fully agree with 2 consecutive posts of two different people... but is  the case.  :):D 


    @Cebrano Yes, the Affinity suite (3 apps) for a lot of people does the deal of Photoshop, Illustrator and InDesign. It is true that does not have (yet) all the features, that has corners to polish, and that being the company staff and money & resources of Serif, what, like 20 or 1000 times smaller than Adobe's, the progress is very slow (some features addition can take years since the moment of considering the possibility of adding them..like happens in open source (low, money, small teams)), as an INCREDIBLY SMALL for endeavors like those, is actually producing 3 HUGE apps in functionality for no less than 3 platforms (Windows, iOS, Mac OS) , and noope, is not "copy-pasting code" as some like to insinuate and oversimplify. 

    There are things you can't do, like in Designer, auto-trace (which can be done in Inkscape quite well), or wrap-deform, which is more of a serious lack. There are some issues also when converting lines to shapes/contours, there are some issues there. The auto -trace is not that much of a show stopper, at least for real pros in design.  The other two are more of a prob, but what people do is mixed workflows with Inkscape. Why not do all in inkscape then, which is free ? Well, because a) some can't stand the UI, has happens with a bunch of open source software, and more importantly b) because for stuff as important and complex as all the print business, are severely lacking compared to Serif's Affinity Designer. Inkscape does not even have a proper CMYK system and CMYK color profiles handling. That's even today a huge portion of commercial projects made impossible.

    In Photo, well, is quite a complex app, in which most can do all what they'll ever need...There are some lacks (imo, less than in designer compared to Illustrator) for a pro use, like color separation, which is kind of an old way of preparing stuff for print (some resort to use Corel Draw instead, among those not willing to use the Adobe cloud) , that is still used for very specific workflows, although not a majority of what is printed today, not even close to that. Most of the market today is PDF/X based workflows, in both CMYK or RGB. The other important lack is for digital painters, and in general, for all, their precision for input devices like tablets. Is not as good as it should be, and you need to activate certain experimental feature in preferences in orden to get a more standard level of accuracy.   Reason why most people don't use it yet for painting as many digital painters do with Photoshop. And reason why I recommend to draw and paint with the cheap Clip Studio Paint, Paint Tool SAI, the free version of Autodesk SketchBook Pro, or Art Rage, all in affordable prices, and then import the art in Affinity Photo (or PhotoLine, which is very good, and from another company, another Photoshop-like tool)  to prepare the file or fine tune it in many ways. This all does not really affects video. Although for retouch (ie, retouching stills, title screens, etc), I highly recommended to activate the "high precision for tablets" feature in "preferences", as it does not only affect painting. Publisher is yet very young. It still needs to "grow", but I'm hearing really good things from people that are much more into publishing than I am. Still, quite far from InDesign and QuarkXPress, but lets not forget the huge price difference, and how cool and functional is the app already.



    @bmichaels556 I agree... I have indeed edited videos at a company, the oficial profesional demos, interviews, making effects, etc, only using virtualdub ...which, back then, it'd allow doing little more than cutting and moving parts of the movie (even a cross fade was a form of art, as it did only had ONE track and no filter for that... ), and things like that all linear workflow... and Photoshop + a batch editor/converter of ranges of frames, with occasional help of transcoding and encoding tools, among many other utilities. Video stuff can always be done, no matter what.... :)


    I still remember the times we handled physical scrubbing and mixer devices, those huge things, with those two disks, and all was a about  traditional magnetic tapes, no "digital" handling. But I was never a video pro, just someone that had to deal with it. Is up to how you put names to things, anyway... :D 



    Are there any good tutorials for Blender that you could recommend?

    At blender.org are very good ones. Is where I'd start if I was beginning at it now. (and of course, the download of the app is there, too)

    But IMO, is great for 3D (is my tool for work, for all my 3D), and while has a video editor inside, quite capable, my (2c) recommendations would be (of course, you can use Blender video editor/composer if you find that you prefer it to the below, but please try everything at start, to decide. Davinci seems to me very professional in everything)  :



    Editing software (any recommendations?)

    Davinci Resolve as a video editor. And Davinci Fusion as an app that makes stuff of the kind that After Effects produces (FX and motion graphics). Resolve comes with a kind of Fusion inside, but more limited. I believe is 300$ each,  but the FREE version is quite powerful, you can start with it and be some time getting used to it, and when you have more budget, finally purchase it. Is VERY good. It works better with an at least average-low GPU, a gamer card would be enough, and a game PC, too, without meaning an enthusiast machine, nor enthusiast card, just a regular average will do. Is not like Premiere, where the GPU affects (specially some stuff in the playback), but is mostly all CPU based. Premiere gets great benefit with powerful CPUs and fast clocks. Davinci wouldn't do with a weak CPU either, but an ok machine + nice card is a great combination for it (that is... an average gamer machine). Of course, non of this for super pro level (I'd be saying a 2080) , but you specified is not your case... yet.  ;) 


    The Davinci solution is not based on subscriptions. So, that's a huge advantage (in my book).

    If you want something simple to handle, yet kind of powerful (imo Davinci is more advanced) you could get Sony Vegas. For this one there's no free version, but I used it during 7 years at my last company. Is very easy and solid. I recommend Davinci better, tho, is better for the long run. Mostly if you end up pairing it with their "Fusion", for effects and motion graphics. if you only have an intel old integrated gpu (like those office low machines, or an old laptop), then I'd say, don't get Davinci, get Sony vegas. But if y you have at least a 1050 or 1060, I'd totally go for Davinci.


    (scroll a lot in the pages linked below (well, in your shoes, I'd read all that info and stuff...) till the bottom to find the download of the free version besides the purchase link for teh day you will decide to buy it).








    Edit: Sony Vegas is called now Vegas Movie Studio. it's been like 6 years since last time I used it, lol. They have now a Vegas Pro solution, seems an NLE editor in a more professional line. The vegas movie studio starts at 50$ in the more limited version, then a 60& and a 100$ version. I just hope you know what is really important, and what "features" or packs are very irrelevant, as so you will save money purchasing the version that you really need.  The vegas Pro starts at 200, then 300$ (this is the price of Davinci, be it resolve or fusion), and has one of 400. It also has a subscription option of 11 or 12$ per month, but I can't stand subscriptions.


    IMO, for 300$, or even 200$ is worth it for me to go instead for Davinci Resolve, better.  But wont harm (even having BOTH! ) to get the vega Movie Studio at 50 or bit higher depending on your needs (I have not checked what they streamed currently from the cheap versions , in the features comparison lists). But you don't seem to know what features you'll need for editing. So, in that way, maybe Davinci is better for you, not only better per se, as it has it all, it has no 3 different versions, no premium or LTE. The freeware version of Davinci is limited, but not so much for the work to do when you are starting.


    All that said, you can use more tools. I've edited things with Blender NLE, VirtualDub, made weird things with ffmpeg, several transcoders, etc.  I found that having one big main editing tool, but also several utilities around always is super helpful.


    Blender can be great also to generate all sort of FX (particles, physics,etc)  and well, 3D media. At some time I've been asked to make 3D logo intros for Youtube channels.  :) A lot of people just using 2D for that, motion graphics  (what you do in Davinci Fusion, or After Effects, or even just in Adobe Animate CC (Flash) and  export. There's a free 2D vector animation tool, called Synfig ( synfig.org ) is totally free, open source and cross platform. 


    Handling all this gives a ton of freedom (trust me). Anyway, as you are starting, I'd take one app, after testing all trials, the one seeming a better bet , so to not get saturated, and learn video editing with it. before that, download several trials and put a lot of patient to each one, as you need to guess which fits you better. Remember some of the best ones (like Blender) can be hard in its UI and complexity at start, but often are really worth the effort later, and even more, years later.





    And to me, for doing content, you DO need some image/graphics editor at least (you might end up even needing a vector editor, like Illustrator or Affinity Designer). I recommend Affinity Photo or Photoline for that (again, am not fan of subscriptions, would have said "Adobe suite" and be done with it...and I know that one deeply). If you got short of money at this point, as you are not really printing stuff (in Gimp is not as strong as in Photoshop or Affinity photo for that) ,... then Gimp, if can stand the UI, will do well.


    Affinity Photo : https://www.serif.com

    Photoline : https://www.pl32.com

    Gimp : https://www.gimp.org


    If you are left with no money after purchasing the camara, hardware, etc... IMO you could do for some time as you are starting with : Davinci Resolve and Fusion FREE versions. Gimp for some image manipulation for images for the video, the thumbnails, etc. Blender in case you need something 3D, or FX ,  even if using effectively Fusion for that. I'd have too XnView Mp (also as image browser... or irfanview) and  their Konvert, for batch converting frames in case you need it one day. You can go purchasing apps as you go needing higher level of stuff.


  5. I like simplicity , I just use the following (it doesn't fail me) :




    I believe the volume in the app overrides Windows volume value, meaning you should probably only handle the volume for what is the alarm in the app.

    I have detected that if it notices other audio is playing in the machine, it will fade out to silence until you stop that music or whatever, so to not make the alarm sound over the music, movie or whatever.

  6. Also, if you love command line, probably imagemagik. In Photoshop, you can make "Actions" (kindda macros) and apply that action to entire folders through the batch processing utility. You have also batch converters which can apply modifications (haven't tried that task you mention, tho) , and my favorite ones in that are irfanview and XnView MP or their standalone converter. This is, in case you want to do it in batch mode, for a bunch of files. If you need a server app doing it or to pipe it to an app working locally to make certain workflow, without user interaction, then the way to go is imagemagik , by command line, is super flexible, and cross platform (windows, linux, mac). Free and open source. Is used both by regular users but also integrated in a server so that whatever PHP code or whatever uses it in an automated way. You can do virtually any sort of image edit or combination with it. Is not easy to learn, but very fast to execute (one you handle it, you know the commands and parameters, is all done in a single command line, even super complex operations).

    For just one random case,  I'd just open one image in anything like gimp, Photoshop, Affinity Photo, Paint.net, Clip Studio, and make "canvas size" (not image size!!) as bigger as what is adding the width in pixels of the other image, but setting the pivot center of the canvas size operation on one of the side margins, so that it adds all new pixels to the left, or the right.. Open that image apart, select all (ctrl +a, ususally) and ctrl + c . And in the enlarged canvas file, paste this second image, and move it to fill the white empty space. Setting snapping on, and to snap to document bounds and layers would make it way easier and faster, and the work more accurate. 

  7. And take responsibility, deal well with pressure, and provide always, tho that goes implicit in the "work ethic" mention.

    9 hours ago, Energycore said:

    Hell, I'd hire you off the back of correctly nesting parentheses ?

    Haha.  That's probably one of the most wanted skills in my profile... they wouldn't need to look further in my career ?.  Prolly if I'd write like that to HRs in the letter, they'd be able to imagine how beautiful my spaghetti code would be, full of redundant and nested loops... Luckily for the universe, I don't code :D  (last time I mentioned HTML/CSS as 'coding', provoked an eyebrow strain to certain someone).

  8. Actually... Is not the usual thing, but sometimes one gets contracted if the sum of skills on a number of matters is fine even if not covering everything required (BTW, in the LTT graphic design offer, what is requested is very spot-on, and no nonsense there, but in MANY companies' job offers it is requested way too many things, also from other profiles (like coding in python to a graphic designer, or asking a coder to be able to model in 3D, that's stupidity, but happens), so, one needs not to be scared of that), or even just if specially excel in one matter, even if not covering a bunch of others. I believe I've learnt entire profiles at companies. And  there's the internship possibility. I was once at a company where we were like 5 contracted for experience and stuff, but after some months, the company needed massive work force for coding and admin, and took like 20 internships, and a number of those ended working fully employed at the company or went to other places, finding better paid contracts. Most were students of last years, tho IT careers. But none had experience, and most of them could not really code. At small businesses (3 to 20 workers) is way more likely to happen. Not everything is Google and Silicon Valley in this world...My first company in 95 did pick this grunt 'cause I could draw, and the second because I could handle Photoshop. All I mean is, you never know. She said she handles Blender, and probably she also uses Photoshop or something similar. With that you might get into some jobs already.

  9. I cover all those points and way more, and still, even if having a work permit, and more importantly, desire to move to Canada (great country, I just like my own and its 114 º F , lol) I would not be able to work there. Because it seems that every worker there needs to kind of be comfortable in front of the camera, be funny and all. I don't know... I could say I find ONE person like that (btw, I found her funny and smart) per every 30 or 35 colleagues in the nerd world that is IT. For some reason, it's more often found among graphics/audio people (in my experience at least) than coders and system folks. And the majority is like me : A freaking nerd that can pass X hours in front of a graphic, 3D model or piece of code without realizing there's a world outside. And really, really bad in front of the camera or even less, telling a joke. Or ultra shy... and I don't mean not being social or team players... Most, we are social as otherwise you can't last at any company, seen horrid cases... but being funny or charismatic is a very rare ingredient, very hard to find among geeks (she uses Blender: that's geek's steps)... IMO. Anyway, there is a literal ton of things we don't know about the case. Like which is her skill level ...I insist, there are rare geniuses, but at 20 and having to attend regular school, is very complex to find an already functional top pro. She could have great skills for her age and yet that not being enough, or... if is there some bureaucracy issue for her to finally move there, etc (she was applying for a job at LTT, so let's assume she DOES want to work there). Or that they already have some candidate in mind (those processes are usually long), but obviously that's kept private, etc, etc. Or even, that she is going to be hired but they prefer to maintain the tension for a bigger impact in certain future video. I found not just her, but the two of them there... funny. Almost as a father way too patient with her daughter. And I have to say... I don't see how can she be described as cringy.

  10. Working in design, graphics, I need smooth edges on screen fonts. I set that one and having desktop composition, show thumbnails instead of icons (for browsing image folders), and use visual styles on windows and buttons. Those 4 and nothing more. Nothing missed for actual graphic work, and no performance loss. And I should notice more than anyone, super old and under powered work PC here, every bit asked to the machine is amplified compared to other people's PCs. I need to optimize every bit (am on Windows 7 yet).  :)

  11. I think she might try to get traction on Mixer, now that she's kindda famous. Is what I'd do... if judging only what we heard in  the Van show, hiring doesn't seem likely at all (not enough skills for the positions to fill... which is natural, as she's quite young yet to have  long experience and skills). But I agree with those thinking she would have a strong future on camera in any youtube channel. Specially with someone as partner / friend / couple. Or collabs, etc . Could do alone, too, but imo her forte is interaction. IMO, besides live stream in that site, should have her own youtube channel. Probably is better for her in the long run not to be hired.



    because whatever makes more money linus is into that

    unless he can't stand her ( I don't mean I know if that's the real case).

  12. Option A) What has been said is the best way specially if you can send the file to a print place where they can print in this medium formats. Using a vector software (inkscape, corel draw, affinity designer, xara, illustrator, etc) , as always that you export for CNC cutting, or make a template of any kind, for 3D print too, or cloth cutting or etc, vectors are better in these cases (accuracy and scaling flexibility, plus perfect curves). You create a canvas of the needed full size (ie, 90cm tall per whatever width), and you can already set the canvas properties, as (though not key in a vector file, but is good for other reasons) the resolution, that is, the DPI at which your print service prints (ie, typically 300 dpi). You might want to set the exact "bleed" asked in the default specs (usually downloadable at some point in the print service's site) of your print service, as well as establishing the specified margins, safe zone, etc. The easiest way with such services is just to download the template they actually provide, for illustrator, corel draw, etc, and use that template to make your file, as there you will have pre-made the bleed and cut line, margins, safe zone, etc.   Then, just making/drawing with the node tool your actual track design. Then adjust the scale of your drawn race track with the proportional scaling tool till you match that canvas of about 80 cm tall, if you hadn't it filling all space already.  Scaling up in vectors is not an issue, as is not about pixels, you have infinite scaling down or up. Once is all of your liking, can save the vector file and provide it in the format that the print service requires (PDF/X, EPS, etc). And that's it.


    Option B) Now... the "dirty way"... hehe.  As u can do it in any raster software, too (photoshop, gimp, Affinity Photo, clip studio paint. Probably even in the free Krita). And as you mentioned "paint", the simplest tool ever, and raster... might be that u feel lost with vector apps. Also because it does seem to me that all you are doing is printing at home, with a cheapo 50 dollars A4 home printer.


    I'd just be sure to see at what DPI is your printer set at (if you are using a home printer and not a POD digital printing service) . 

    For simplicity, I'd just set the image at 90 cm tall . Hopefully, you can set your printer to print border-less, without margins. But if not possible, you will need to cut away the exceeding empty paper, the printer margins. The  canvas, this new image, needs to be at the same dpi (resolution) of your printer, or the one that you are setting in your print dialog. So that the file wont stall your computer, I strongly recommend 300 dpi, also the usual res in case u'd send it in the future to a printing service.


    Of course, it would have been important that the canvas created as new, would be big enough to fit all your track's drawing. For example, if is enough, with 9  A4 sheets (~ letter size) forming a 3x3 grid, as A4 and letter size are usually printable in any home printer.   Forming this grid, 3 (A4s) for the width, 3 for height. In Photoshop or whatever similar, an easy way for this is just create the new canvas as an A4 (or "letter" size). You could now (is optional)  hit ctrl + a or however you do there a "select all". And then "save selection", call it for example "A4 selection". So you keep a selection exactly the A4 size. Then (most image editing apps allow this) set the "canvas size" to a new size  (or image resize if there's no such option in your app, as now does not matter yet, is a white canvas) , and change it to be " 300%" in Width, and 300% in height.


    Now make your 80 cm tall drawing of the track covering well the whole canvas, or just paste it there if you have it created already. If after pasting it is much smaller to cover the real state there of 80cm tall in this 300dpi (I repeat, matching your printer dpi)   canvas that you  have now, if is smaller, I recommend making the track again from scratch, as scaling up always results in blurry results, in raster (pixels). Once you have your track drawing finished (maybe using the (Photoshop, or Photo, or etc) vector tools is the very best option for this case), what you have is a giant canvas with a track over it, filling well all the 3x3 (A4s) sheet. Now, to print and then stitch together the printed pages, I'd first set snapping ON, and also set the setting to snap to document bounds, selections, and layers (very important for ease and speed for the following). You now load the selection we made (which happens to be exactly an A4 in size). Move the selection towards the canvas left border and bottom border. As snapping is on, the selection will snap to both. Now make a new layer. In Photoshop (sorry, is the one I know everything from memory, lol) , or equivalent in other tool, hit shift F5 and pick any color to fill this selection, (is just fill it with pixels) whatever you want. Now you have a filled layer the size of an A4. Deselect (ctrl + d in Photoshop). Now, you will duplicate this layer in the fastest and easiest way possible in your software. In Photoshop, is keeping pressed ctrl, the press and keep also pressed ALT, without releasing those, drag the layer with the left mouse button, just drag it, will move a new copy of the layer, duplicating it so. As you move it, let it snap to the side of the existing layer, and do it again with the resulting one, and then the same with the row of the grid you will be forming above, and so till you have your 3x3 grid of A4 "pages" done, and perfectly (magnetic) snapping each rectangle with the next (ALL "tutorial" till here this is done in 15 seconds. Seriously).


    Remember you had already your track designed in another layer.  Now, in Photoshop, and I think this has been recently added to Affinity Photo as well, you can ctrl and LMB (left mouse button) click on the layer thumbnail of one of the A4s rectangles you've made, in the layers list window, so to select fast the layer's full content, the A4 rectangle (or select that layer in the layers window, and hit in the menu/select/ or layer contextual menu : "load layer transparency" ). Be sure now to save your final version of the file, right now.  Now "crop to selection" . Hide all layers now except the one containing a part of the racing track, so only that is visible now. As I told you, I hope your home printer allows a setting called "border-less" printing, so to not produce margin, gaps between pages. As you will print this cropped thing as one A4 of the grid. Then ctrl+z or ctrl alt z until you get back to the global view before cropping to selection. Ctrl click over the layer's thumbnail of another A4 rectangle to have that selection for that grid rectangle on, and hit again "crop to selection", hide all except the racing track part, print. And repeat. Till you have all your 9 pieces printed. then stitch them to form the plan / blueprint.


    Another way is using just guides, snapping and the crop tool. But whenever I explain guides to whoever, people get lost, lol.


    All these methods, pretty similar across the main raster apps : Photoshop, Affinity Photo, Photo Line, Paint Shop Pro... Gimp is a different animal but have a lot of Photoshop's functionality, just in quite a different way.


    I explained it in a humongously long way, as is longer to explain than to do. It might take me like 20 second to make and print all except actually drawing the track, as depends on if you are making a complex track of many curves or just a circular or simple shape track.


    Might sound cumbersome, but the drag and copy layer, with snap on (and particularly, with smart grid on in photoshop or Affinity Photo's snap system) it is darn fast, seconds. And when you have more "cell" grids, and a very complex overall drawing, this technique becomes very handy. It is NOT the way I print anything of large dimensions, as I always send it to a POD printer, a service online, print shop etc, and print it in the final size format as many are capable to print in huge formats. Have done event posters of 6 meters wide, and theater scenery of 8+ x 2 meters...no stitching required :D


    Also, for more advanced solutions, whenever making grid based things, can be advantageous to create macros, Actions, scripts, whatever supported by the 2D app.  


    And as mentioned, anything to be cut on wood, any CNC stuff, or 3D print, or etc, better if done by a vector based program, as they recommended above. I just provided the dirty ways as a non standard way for those allergic to vectors  ;) 



  13. You are perfectly fine with a XP-Pen Deco 03, a Deco Pro, or a Wacom Medium. imo, no need for the Intuos Pro, intuos is fine for retouch, is more important that is medium size. As anyway, you will be needing 200% to access the keyboard handling Photoshop or whatever for image editing, your hand is already 100% of the time there, so the extra function buttons, not a need. The Xp-Pen Deco 03, has the side function buttons, besides being already 70 to 80$ cheaper than the wacom medium, and includes a disc for zoom or brush size, very convenient. If that wasn't enough, it is indeed bigger than wacom medium in active area!  The sturdyness and quality of build and for actually drawing: ensured by people I very much trust, and overtime, these guys have not seen it breaking or degrading. I have similar reports with the 22e display-tablet. And with several Huion.


    Wacom medium is an AMAZING purchase as well. But at this level I rather advice the Deco 03 or PRO. And at bigger levels, even over display-tablets, I recommend Wacom Large. but IMO that's not for light photo retouch, that's for what I do, illustration, comic, etc freelance full time and stuff. As the Large provides a lot of precision for line art, inking work.

  14. My positive opinion about the XP-Pen Deco 03 classic tablet (100$ only at amazon first hand) and the  XP-Pen 22E monitor-tablet is mostly due to having friends, colleagues that use these and love them. And two of these guys are super reliable in these matters and in general. Reviews occupy a lower rank in my consideration, but I've watched a lot, and the line jitter and other stuff is not something that can be easily faked (I easily hunt those trying to fool all of us) for someone working 10 -16 hours a day with tablets, non-stop for decades (since '91).  Wacom drivers have also a history of issues , and about hardware, Mobile studios and Companions have always have a dark history, even with refunds. That said, I love Wacom, they're the best in quality, but not the best in quality/cost . All my current tablets are Wacom. Just that today you get very good and solid/durable enough tablets too in the Huion and XP-Pen brands. I've been painting and doing game artwork (and other fields/industries) as a job for decades, tablets are now part of me, almost. Still, the full control you have with pen and paper, or oils and canvas... IMO, not yet achieved. Not even with the cintiqs. We (now speaking about illustrators only) use all this, digital, because so production is faster.

  15. About that list... not sure if she's (20 she said?) a millennial (gen y) or a gen z (definitions ranges overlap... and definitely, Linus is not a boomer, is gen x, like me... )
    IMO, she wins. Both cringey, and both put Linus to the limit (for some super weird reason, ppl think this is a value itself, lol) , both funny in a way, but actually laughed quite with Madison, dunno exactly why... 



  16. Some video editing/rendering apps depend more on the CPU (and among them some utilize all threads, others a reduced number of them...I believe Premiere uses effectively till 10 cores), others get the acceleration by GPU, so this counts, too. It's the CPU, for most. In general benchmarks the 3600 and 2700x are quite much better machines than older ones from so many years ago, for almost everything. For some , single core fastest clock is key, in others the threads count a bit more. It also depends on if you loose more time rendering (edit: seems you want faster rendering) or need the speed-up during editing. Is not the same Premiere than Final Cut, Davinci Resolve, Sony Vegas, etc. In  general the CPU is more important, but in Davinci Resolve is all about the GPU, so a gamer machine could be already a good bet till some point, for that one. The CPU and other components are yet very important in GPU accelerated software, anyway. Considering that in benchmarks, particularly multi threaded loads, the 7700k is left quite behind in comparison to both the 3600x and 2700x, the software being used (as each one seems to make a  somewhat different use of hardware) is a big factor, imo. The (having SSD disks) disk and RAM (After Effects uses a lot of ram in certain type of projects) has its influence, too. In theory one should go for 32GB...but I know, pricey...At least 16gb and 4gb in the v. card.  And at what resolution are you going to work (4k, etc), that's quite a factor (RAM, etc). For editing with Premiere only, maybe is a better road to get an i9 9900k. I just dislike the upgrade path...



  17. TL; DR : Do yourself a favor, just get the XP-Pen Deco 03 or Deco Pro.  It's 100$ or 130$, respectively, at Amazon, last time I checked. Only purchase them from the official XP-Pen offers there at Amazon.


    I have use Photoshop a lot with both mouse and Wacoms (and other tablets), but somehow in pure photo / image editing I'm faster with the mouse.

    For specific photo retouching, that is,  the usual cloning, healing, refining, retouching in general, masks making, a tablet is quite helpful. I'm more of an illustrator/comic artist/designer/3D artist, but besides that have needed to do tons of retouching works,  the folks I've known working exclusively for retouching models photos for magazines and the like, photo studios, etc, they often tell me a small Wacom is best as you then control all with smaller movement. But these guys are very specialized in very specific tasks, while you will do more varied stuff, surely.  

    IMO, the bigger the size, the higher the accuracy.  I have a very big tablet due to the fact that I often ink comics, and line-art is about the thing requiring more precision, accuracy of the lines. I typically recommend small (S) wacoms for exclusively photo retouch, but in the long run you would regret it, imo. While it is good for pixel art (I did tons of pixel art with a Small back in 2001, an entire PC game (well, the 2D graphics in it), and several mobile games in 2006, again using only a small) , photo retouch and vector artwork, as all of those have workflows that compensate for the lack of precision, I still think the best solution, capable of all situations and needs, and also the greatest price/usefulness ratio  is purchasing a medium size tablet (active area = 10 inches wide). But now alternative brands have caught up with Wacom, and are at a 50% or less of the price, and you get great tablets if buying the right ones, despite not being Wacom. With a medium size (typically one of at least 10 inches wide of ACTIVE AREA (not full size), is listed in the specifications) you can: Do illustration, inking, painting, retouch, vectors, textures, UI, ANYTHING. For a real pro IN ILLUSTRATION AND COMIC (not in photo retouch) I totally recommend better a Wacom Large (L) , or a Display-tablet of at least 22 inches ( is a screen where you draw on), also called Cintiqs and of course, Cintiq alternatives (by Huion and XP-Pen, mostly).


    For your budget, and actually, for virtually any artist that can't afford a Wacom Large (L), or an XP-Pen or Huion Display-tablet (cintiq alternatives), a medium size tablet from XP-Pen (my fav) or Huion is the way to go. You must be very sure that whatever the model you pick cover these requirements :


    - The pen is battery free. Battery based ones usually can produce more trembling / jittery / wobbly lines, besides you need to charge them.

    - The active area (listed in the product specs) is at least 9.5" (or so) or better, 10" (inches) wide. (they could call it "medium" or not)

    - The pen pressure is at least 1024 levels of pressure. For photo retouch you benefit a lot from more levels. There are cheap ones with 8k levels , today.

    - The brands are : XP-Pen, Huion or Wacom. Wacom is the more sturdy and durable, in my experience and others'. But I'd go for the other two brands today, no real issues. Brands like Veikk, Bosto, etc, well, I set them in another level, personally. Just like Wacom is above all them in building quality, etc.

    - IMO, better if purchased at Amazon (they're serious if there's some issue). Exception made with Wacom. You can buy wacom in their site or a shop, there's no issues. I'd just do NOT recommend purchasing the computer they sell (not only due to the very high cost) , the Mobile Studio or whatever the marketing name they assign to it in the future. Also, once the cpu, ram, etc, gets old with the current software, you loose the tablet, somehow, need to upgrade all as a whole, while a tablet can be used with many computers. I've only heard a considerable number of issues with Wacom's support with their portable laptop-tablets, these Mobile Studios (anyway, 3k is pretty far from your 200, lol, am just giving you a full picture here), while not really a percentage to consider from their classic tablets, or even their cintiqs. It happens a lot more with any other brand. but we are in a point where you'd better go with a classic 100 bucks alternative, safely.


    I do not recommend buying used tablets, neither refurbished. That's my personal take at it. If anything, maybe Wacom, but I'd have to check everything well, and have a solid very reliable warranty period. Is NOT like other type of hardware in this regard.


    In pricing , the order tends to go like this in every equivalent range of their catalogs, from pricier to more affordable : Wacom -> Huion -> XP-Pen. 


    The ones I recommend to everybody are, according to budgets (In any category, you rarely go wrong with any of these 3 brands.) 


    Wacom tends to be better supported by software applications, as has been longer around, more polished drivers, etc. But sincerely, there's rarely any show stopper issue, these days.


    - From 50$ to 80 $ : Small : Xp-Pen, Wacom , or Huion. Just be sure the pen is battery-free and at least 1024 levels of pressure. If the requirements above are covered, if you find small models that have an active area BIGGER than Wacom's, but at this price range, this is a key criteria in this range, whatever the brand (only among these, imo) would be preferable over wacom.

    - From 100$ (xp-pen) to aprox. 200$ (wacom M) : Medium, this is my recommendation for YOU (and most hobbyists, and even quite some pros), specially the XP-Pen Deco 03, as it typically is at 100$ in amazon, despite Wacom costing 2x that or so, while the Deco 03 is LARGER in its active area than regular Wacom's medium size. This Deco 03 has 8k levels of pressure, a disc for operations like zoom, brush size, etc (whatever you set in the control panel of the driver's panel), which is quite a pro touch. It has also function buttons in the side. Both features usually removed in Wacom's equivalents in price range and size. The pen is battery-free and very good. It has VERY good reputation among too many artists to offer any doubt for me. There's another with good reputation from them, costs about 130$, the Deco Pro. I'd definitely go with any of these 2 (have more feedback about Deco 03). Not with others in their catalog (maybe yep with the display tablet 22E Pro, but thats about 360 bucks, still a crazy low price for a display tablet). You don't necessarily go wrong with a Huion of similar characteristics if covers the reqs I listed above. I just have not so much direct feedback from those. At this point I definitely recommend a Deco 03 or Pro over a Wacom Medium.

    - 360 to 500$ or so (sorry if I have not been accurate with any of the prices, but they tend to be around this) and beyond (usually till 900, in those I mention here) : Wacom Large, or if going with display-tablets, the Cintiq (NON PRO as the pro line prices go to the roof) 16" or 22" inches are good purchases, or the XP-Pen 22E Pro (22 inches screen tablet). My preference is Wacom Large, as I am very used to classic tablets (non screen tablets) have the trained coordination hand-screen. Some novices will prefer display-pen solutions (or simply iPads of other tablets) as don't want to train this capability. I think it pays in the long run to get used to classic ones, besides are way cheaper and cheaper to replace (so, more sustainable) and healthier in ergonomics (posture, eyesight),  as you can always go from classic to display-tablets (require no skill "upgrade"), but is much harder to improvise the habit of painting on a classic tablet if coming from traditional or cintiqs. For photo retouch, so that you have your pro monitor and etc as an independent device, it is quite convenient to just use classic tablets.


    Note: I just realized Xp-Pen has a 700 $ new Display-pen, the 22R, "replacing" (their old models are not removed from catalog, you can purchase them for years) the 22E, which due to this (surely) has gone from 500/600$ to 360$, lol. The new model is quite superior (at least on specs), but one is good to go with the "old" 22E, if care to color calibrate the screen with a hardware color calibrator like color munki, i1 display pro or etc. Which is sth any serious creator should do with his/her monitor, be it a pro monitor or a display-tablet.


    PS: I have ZERO relation with XP-Pen, like neither with other hardware vendors. I just recommend what I know is better or has better usability/price ratio (yet being good and professional devices). You are good to go as well with Huion, but I have less feedback from their products. And I've owned 4 Wacom tablets and used a lot more at companies, so I know these very well.


  18. On 11/15/2019 at 5:00 AM, Ehmc130 said:

    Good old days... ? Listen here son in my day you had to be in the same house to play a multiplayer game and you were happy with that. 

    My good old days were more about playing on this one, and in some it could be multiplayer, but involved using a coin :


    Then these came, and you could do "multiplayer", but using same freaking keyboard.

    Although my very first old days games had unlimited multiplayer :