Wiebenor

Almost forgot to mention that I'm planning on keeping/adding support for DVDs/CDs, as well as making it support a 3.5inch HDD or two, and 2.5 inch, as well as possibly having an M.2 for boot purposes, plus it will be likely an AMD based server/NAS system eventually, with the possibility of playing games on the APU, although I'm waiting for the AM5 mainboard/DDR5 launch and reviews, before I make any decisions on what brand and generation of system I'm going to use... Also, I've read that it WILL get hot, but admittedly the guy that said that had a full blown graphics card and riser cable setup

Yes, and it's been gutted, as well as already having had the power button rewired to directly go to soldered on wires... Would have liked to use the original or a replacement LED light, but I deemed the wiring too complicated and cut the LED off so as to affix a new one in it's place, also wired direct... On a side note, yet also related, I'll still be using the iMac front panel mainboard for proper button spacing between the plastic button and the momentary switch that is behind it, and probably won't even try to reuse the headphone jacks, unless I find a reliable and not confusing way to do

I have the 2.0 and it's nice, but I think I might get the new USB-C charging cable, the "Spark" I think it's called, but to be honest, I think they should include a 2.0 to C adapter with those, if they don't, because the reason I originally chose 2.0 is because my volunteer AV tech position at My church, only has 2.0 ports(easily accessible at least) on the computer I use, and I'm not about to hunt around the computer case just to find whether there's a C port on the rear, because it's placed in a cubby-hole under the soundboard desk, and yeah, I'd have to plug it and forget it, which I will N

First of all, I hope this is in the right forum subsection, and I thank anyone that can help me with my question, in advance... I have an old powerPC iMac that I would like to use for converting to a Windows PC, but I have found out that I am more than likely going to have to scrap part of my original idea to use the built-in LEDs for the power button although I might be able to solder on a couple of wires directly to the power button itself and use that without any of the other motherboard parts, and being that the iMac originally had bi-color LEDs, I am wondering if anyone has do

I'm not sure whether it's a new VPN setup for you, but I do believe I have heard, that some VPN companies will limit internet speeds, sometimes drastically, if they detect torrenting activities... If you haven't used a VPN before, or have recently switched, that could explain it, insofar as not having the problem before, but however, if you've been using it for a while, it could be that you're not using a "no logs" VPN, in which case it could be that they have been contacted by government agencies regarding copyright infringement and other illegal activities, or that they have a policy that wi

Sorry it took me awhile, but here's the pictures of my case... The outside definitely needs work, but the inside looks good still

I thought that was a pretty obvious feature myself; I mean, I bought them specifically for the idea of inserting the tip and leaving it plugged in... However, I'm not going to say that some people might not understand that, nor judge anyone that doesn't understand the set it and forget it nature of these cables

Ok, Good... I have had times where I could view the file in the phone, but not the PC, after a similar event would happen. A small piece of advice for the future, though, If it's so important that you're possibly willing to pay for data recovery then you should press "copy" and not "move" or "cut"...

My advice first off, as I've had similar problems with android phones in the past, is to disconnect the device, and reconnect it... If that doesn't work, then if you're rooted, you should be able to run a recovery app, otherwise if you're not rooted, then a data recovery professional is your best bet

I found out that the cable doesn't support all devices, only those without the PowerDelivery 2.0 mandatory specification, and if your device, such as a pixel 4a doesn't work, it's either because you need the SPARK cable, or are using a 5watt version... Haven't heard of anyone else with a pixel 4a trying the 3watt volta 2.0 cable, so I can't verify whether the problem is actually PowerDelivery 2.0, or the whole google locking out 5watt cables due to shoddy workmanship concerns, with a few brands not necessarily with Volta in particular... Of course, that doesn't mean that I think th

They released another one, according to my notification, just a few minutes ago... It's in the middle of the new gaming headset roundup...

I haven't decided yet if I'm going to do it, but it IS already gutted specifically for that purpose... I'm not sure, but I may not even have to go 4x3... I might be able to find a 1080p portable monitor small enough to fit, and basically those have the same setup, just prebuilt, the only bit I'm not sure on, is how I'd manage the letterbox gaps on the top and bottom... Probably a piece of black hard plastic, I reckon would work... That way it's 16X9 which I love, but it still has a clean look to the edges... Also, it's not a white fan, although the size you stated is correct... My fan, is blac

I have an idea for a custom built 'sleeper PC" where I use a "Bubble iMac", without the built-in screen of course, to house a full PC, including a DVD Drive, if I can find a laptop drive that's the same size, and compatible with the iMac cd-drive bezel, or close enough, to be juryrigged at least, with a little glue or something... My question is, if I want to go through with the idea, do I want to go with a CPU or an APU??? Also, how new do I want to go with the processor??? What I know for sure about the proposed build is that it would likely be a M-atx or M-itx board

As long as you have the uefi set to legacy you can "boot anything, from anything" or very nearly so, but if you don't then it has to be uefi based, or would a better term be, compliant??? Most new windows installers should be uefi compatible, but who knows if yours is...

I do like the old style look, but I hope he cleaned up some of the drive cages that are likely inside, cuz dam, back then, they didn't even hear about this thing called airflow...