fargonaz reacted to Bitter in I need money for a pc....
I have never owned anything other than used laptops, if they're in decent shape to start with and you don't abuse them they'll give you lots of life. You may need to replace a battery at some point. I have an almost 20 year old Dell that still works but is now too slow to use and an almost 10 year old Dell that works fine. Hardware is pretty robust, maybe a battery is needed or a keyboard has to be replaced but those can be done cheaply and worked around if you plug in a keyboard and use the power adapter.
I like Dell because they have good documentation on their website and parts are abundant.
fargonaz reacted to Levent in Have you ever bought extended warranty?
During my whole time in tech, I only got 2 devices successfully repaired/replaced/refunded (out of 10 or so claims I made). I never get extended warranties, I just use my stuff carefully, if something breaks I use that as an excuse to learn how to repair it.
fargonaz reacted to sowon in Spiders
I would highly recommend formating this piece with paragraphs as currently it looks like one long wall of text, it's quite difficult to read.
The content itself from the skim I went through looks good, but spliting up your piece into sections would make it a tad more legible.
fargonaz reacted to valdyrgramr in WHO recognises Gaming Addiction officially as a Mental Health Problem.
Not saying they haven't done good, but it's not all pure data and good.
fargonaz reacted to demolitionGoat in DIY ITX Layered Wood and Acrylic Glass Air-Cooled PC [First ever build]
I just wanted to share the result of my first custom PC adventure.
Here's a Picture of the completed build:
Here's the hardware list:
PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU Intel - Core i9-9900K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor $484.99 @ B&H CPU Cooler Noctua - NH-U9S 46.44 CFM CPU Cooler $59.95 @ Amazon Motherboard Asus - ROG STRIX Z390-I GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard $199.98 @ Amazon Memory Corsair - Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $261.00 @ Amazon Storage Western Digital - Green 240 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $49.89 @ OutletPC Video Card Asus - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB TURBO Video Card $771.80 @ Amazon Power Supply SeaSonic - FOCUS SGX 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply $117.63 @ Amazon Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $1945.24 Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-05-21 05:33 EDT-0400 Shut up! I need a 9900k for REASONS!
The general idea was to create a case with direct airflow pretty much directly from bottom to top in the smallest doable form factor.
It's not perfect by a long shot but then again i am no craftsman of any sort.
With it now running and having gone through a few benchmarks and stress tests I found that i can comfortably run the cpu to a clock of 4.9 without the fans going crazy or temps going over 80 degrees.
The tower cooler is definitely sufficient.
The GPU is also suprisingly silent for a blower stly card but definitely the loudest part of the system. If i were to do it again i would probably not take a blower style card again but it's really no big deal.
The system is overall almost inaudible even under some light load (i.e: games)
The GPU will of course be audible when doing a render.
If anyone is interested I'll pack out some of the pictures i did inbetween and share the build process.
I am also open to any questions or suggestion of course.
Update: Here's some pics and description to serve as a little bit of a buildlog. half of those are "reenactments" though, since i did not make many pictures while building unfortunately.
The initial idea:
I had this old can for imported olives that i liked the look of and so i had the whacky idea of putting a pc into it. I made a first prototype... which worked insofar as it fit the can over it.
I realized though, that the whole construction was a little to shaky while also being pretty heavy, so i started again:
I created this model in blender of how it should look like. It has all the components in it and should fit since it is all to scale ... or so i thought.
I went to building then...
Here's a tutorial on how to do teethed connections the dirty way. Don't do this in front of a woodworker. They might just murder you.
Draw the teeth (preferrably with a breadth that is a divider to the total length, so that there isn't one little tooth at the end):
The depth should usually be the same as the depth of the plate.
Set a tablesaw to the depth and draw it towards the plate holding it like so:
Be careful doing that of course. tablesaws are dangerous. I recommend putting a second sacrificial plate behind the first one, so that the first plate does not fray.
Lastly... you use whatever you have or the actual 90° clamp to put the two together after wood glue was applied:
Now.... before any of this... which i did not do... you should make all the holes for screws. In my experience the tons of glue used in good layered wood should easily suit the needs of pc screws.
I used a sacrificial plate to determine the right sizes for the holes. You could trust the measurements of the screws but why not try is before using it to hold hundreds of euros of hardware.
Everything else was pretty much just holes and screws. There is only more truly custom thing:
I made clamps to hold the PSU from brass:
I put felt in between the metal and the PSU to absorb vibration.
At this point i realized, that the components would firstly not fit as intended and secondly that i had not considered how much space cables need.
I had to rethink the arrangement and ended up with something like this:
I then rebuilt my blender model:
It came out something like that.
The final form is a compromise, since most IO is at the side, which i wanted to avoid but i am pretty happy with it.
I then bought acrylic glass, cut it with a tablesaw (not recommended. dont be cheap like me and get an acrylic cutter.)
sanded the sides down up to 800 grid and drilled holes with a metal drill. be careful when punching guide holes for the drill. acrylic is pretty easily cracked as i had to learn.
I drilled holes into the sides of the case and inserted threaded bolts until about a cm stood out. I then cut off the head of the bolts. The glass goes over the bolts and is held with wingnuts.
As you can clearly see, i painted the case with varnish before installing the hardware.
The feet are currently a temporary solution. I am not sure what to do for fee yet.
I taped a patch of airfilter sheet from the internet to the bottom to filter the intake. Also a temporary solution right now.
If there are any questions left open i am happy to answer.
fargonaz reacted to xstma in Facebook bans road safety ad that’s ‘too gory’ for social media
Live-streaming terror events is fine but car safety adverts aren't? what has this world come to ?
An Australia road safety ad has been banned from Facebook after the social media platform deemed the campaign as “too gory”.
The Australasian New Car Assessment Program (ANCAP) created a 60 second video, which features crash test dummies in a head on collision
The purpose of the clip was to show the difference between an old and a new vehicle when involved in an accident, showing the differences modern technology makes in a crash.
However the campaign was blocked from the social media website as the it was deemed too violent and “sensational”.
fargonaz reacted to JohhnyBravo in POSTs but no OS boots
i dont have a memory test option in my bios, the ram has been tested and is working. the board is rated for 16GB 1333hz i am using 16gb 1666hz both are being detected fine so i dont think i have a defective slot. i personally have never heard of ram being to fast to boot an os but i pulled a stick and was able to boot sparky in fail safe mode! i will try with other OS's now.
fargonaz got a reaction from ZombiPL in Linus Scammed? I hope not.... love Linus tech tips! Your thoughts please!
I take it that your parents never told you, "NO!"
Just think how much joy it will bring when/if it arrives.
fargonaz reacted to BuckGup in Linus Scammed? I hope not.... love Linus tech tips! Your thoughts please!
The guy who makes them is active on the forum. Long story short. It's HARD to mass produce quality and unique PC cases that aren't $1000 a piece
fargonaz got a reaction from TheKDub in Linus Scammed? I hope not.... love Linus tech tips! Your thoughts please!
I take it that your parents never told you, "NO!"
Just think how much joy it will bring when/if it arrives.
fargonaz got a reaction from kirashi in Linus Scammed? I hope not.... love Linus tech tips! Your thoughts please!
I take it that your parents never told you, "NO!"
Just think how much joy it will bring when/if it arrives.
fargonaz reacted to Bcat00 in AMD Navi 20 GPU Allegedly Supports Ray Tracing & Enhanced GCN Architecture - May Be Faster Than RTX 2080 Ti
Why are the members on this forum so in love with exaggerating AMD products?
like come on, does history not show that crappy company can’t roll out a decent GPU for the past decade?
They invent a new manufacturing method?
They get a genius scientist on their team?
they get a giant influx of investment from a third party firm?
fargonaz reacted to genexis_x in [REVIEW] Illegear Raven Laptop (i7-8750H, 1050TI)
[Scroll to bottom for i5-9300H+1650 update]
[To solve power limit issue: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhXIiBPJseI]
Disclaimer: This is not a paid review. Thank you Illegear for loaning the review unit.
Hi everyone. This is my third review in LTT forum. I will be reviewing the Illegear Raven laptop. The review unit costs MYR 4912 (around USD 1208), specs of this review unit are as below:
A few notes before reading:
1. This is a straight forward review.
2. I only cover a few pictures here. Other pictures can be found from Illegear website.
3. My English Language is not that great since it's not my native language. I apologize if you find the review too simple and boring.
4. This review will be edited from time to time.
Part 1: Build quality, ports
The build quality is solid overall. It has aluminum brush body and lid which feels premium and most importantly, it’s not a fingerprint magnet. There’s little to no flex at the keyboard deck. Side and top of keyboard deck have slightly more flex but still good. The lid has some flex when some force is applied but nothing worrying. However, the lid can be twisted with some force and it has a bit of wobbling, which is normal for a single hinge laptop. The maximum angle when the lid is opened completely is about 150 degrees. You can open the lid with one finger. The laptop is advertised with 2.2kg weight and I can feel that it’s slightly lighter than my Legion Y520 (2.4kg as advertised). Quite portable.
Ports selection is excellent. However, you may have some inconvenience if you wish to use the ports at the back when the charging cable is coming from the left (plugged in). Also, if you utilize the ports at the right, you might have some trouble with external mouse movements (assuming that you use your mouse with right hand).
You need to press about 3 seconds to power on the laptop. I would like to see power and charging indication lights on the outside of the laptop (in other words, lights can be seen when the lid is closed)
Part 2: Input devices (featuring GENESWITCH mechanical keyboard v2)
The mechanical keyboard is probably one of the most important features about this laptop. I really liked the innovation of bringing mechanical keyboard into laptops. Furthermore, mechanical switches usually have better reliability. Take note that everyone has their own preference on keyboards. I will evaluate the keyboard according to my own preference.
The switches are similar to blue switches. Actuation force is quite low and key travel is deep (3mm). The actuation point is around the middle of the key travel. Sometimes you can register a key without having the ‘click’ noise (or in other words, doesn’t need to exceed the actuation point). However, the key feel is too soft for me. The click sound (actuation point) is loud which isn’t ideal in quiet environments. For gaming, the keyboard is fine, however I prefer linear keys like red switches more. The layout is a bit special (especially right CTRL and SHIFT keys) and I always mistype the up key when trying to press right shift. It takes time to get used to the keyboard.
You can set the effect, brightness and speed of the keyboard lighting via the included software – Raven Command Center, see below. The keys are a bit difficult to be seen when the backlight is off.
The touchpad (clickpad) uses Windows Precision drivers. It’s slightly elevated to the back. Gliding, gestures and tapping are smooth and accurate. The left and right clicks feel good quality. Surprisingly good for a gaming laptop.
Part 3: Display, audio, connectivity, battery life
The display is a FHD IPS/AHVA 60Hz, 45% NTSC panel, panel model is PANDA LM156LF1L02 (keep in mind that Illegear is constantly changing the display panel from time to time). There is an optional high refresh rate panel to choose from as well. This panel here is professional calibrated out of the box (+RM49). Viewing angles are good, colours are fine despite its low sRGB coverage. Brightness is normal for an IPS display. Despite a 60Hz IPS panel, it has no severe ghosting in games.
The audio is TBH, a bit poor. Bass is lacking (it has subwoofer as advertised), sound is dull. However, you can tweak for a better audio via the Sound Blaster software (I tested the audio with the preset out of the box)
Wi-Fi adapter is Intel 9560 which is an excellent wireless adapter.
This model has a 46Wh battery. After 2 hours and 15 minutes of typing document (40% brightness, no tweaking), battery life has dropped from 100% to 60%.
Part 4: Cooling performance
The cooling design consists of 2+2 seperate medium sized heatpipes with 2 seperate fans. Stock thermal paste is used.
All tests are tested at ambient temp of around 30C, gaming profile applied and in equilibrium performance mode (see below for more info). Laptop is plugged in. Under load, temperature will rise slowly as the fan noise will increase gradually until stabilized. Blue highlighted part is CPU+GPU undervolted result (-0.1V for both CPU and GPU).
CPU temp - Aida64 FPU stress
Around 2750MHz@45W, 85-88C, near max fan speed
Around 3000MHz@45W, 85-88C, same fan speed
GPU temp - Unigine Heaven – high quality, normal tesselation, AA x8
71C 1759MHz, slightly lower fan noise
CSGO - 1024x768, low settings, FXAA VSync Motion blur disabled
CPU: 73-77C, 3.5-3.9GHz, 29-32W
GPU: 62-63C, 1759MHz
Fan noise audible but at acceptable level
CPU: 69-72C, 3.5-3.9GHz, 28-31W
GPU: 58-60C, 1772MHz
Slightly reduced fan noise
CSGO - 1920x1080, high settings, FXAA VSync Motion blur disabled
CPU: 70-74C, >3GHz with some occasional 3.9GHz, 25-31W (more on that later)
GPU: 81-82C, 1721MHz
Fan noise increased but still below deafening level
CPU: 65-71C, >3GHz with some occasional 3.9GHz 20-25W
GPU: 72-73C, 1747MHz
Slightly reduced fan noise
Cinebench R15 multi core
~1020cb@~3.3GHz, 50W, 88C
~email@example.comGHz, 50W, 88C
So why is the CPU performance during gaming so strange? The BIOS is set to limit the CPU performance when performing high load so that the total power draw doesn’t exceed the max wattage supplied by the charger (120W). The charger also runs a bit hot while gaming.
Also, CB15 multi core score cannot exceed 1200cb because it has a relatively low power limit 2 as shown below, thus the performance is limited. You cannot change the power limits via Intel XTU.
- PL1 45W, PL2 50W, 35W in games (very common for 8750H)
Under load, keyboard area (especially middle part) is warm but nothing alarming. The overall fan noise is a bit high but the noise has low-medium frequency/pitch, therefore not that distracting. The fans are very sensitive to temps as they can adjust the fan speed quickly according to the temps. Max core difference is 5C under load.
Note: i7-8750H CPU is a hot chip, not many laptop can handle this CPU well. 80-90C isn’t considered hot in stress tests assuming that there's no major throttling (eg Aida64 FPU)
One useful feature: You can set the fan speed manually in Office mode>Advanced setting. Anything from 45-65C and off/30-70% speed. With this feature you can avoid sudden ramping up of fans in light loads. PL1 will drop to 35W though.
One thing I need to mention is, M.2 SSD cooling isn’t bad. Idle temp is below 40C. <70C after 9 Crystaldiskmark sequential tests.
Part 5: Miscellaneous
Illegear Command Center (note that it doesn't have turbo mode)
Bonus Section: i5-9300H with GTX 1650 update
Notes on thermal testing:
1. PL1 - 45W, PL2 - 50W
2. GPU driver tested is 430.64
3. Test is conducted in a A/C room (ambient 20-22C)
4. Game mode and equilibrium mode are used
5. Laptop is plugged in. The fans take a while to speed up when load is applied
6. Max fan noise is ~52dBA
7. This model doesn’t have GPU turbo feature
Undervolt profile: CPU core+cache -100mv. You can undervolt GPU if you want (highly recommended for Raven), but it takes time. Blue highlighted part is the undervolted result.
CPU temp - Cinebench R15 multi core (1 run)
Max 74C, 50W, ~3.7GHz
Max 74C, 50W, 3.85-3.9GHz
CPU temp - Aida64 FPU 45W
Max 74C, ~3.1GHz
Max 74C, 3.2-3.3GHz
GPU temp - Unigine Valley (extreme HD profile)
Clock speed fluctuates: 1800+MHz
Max 72C, 39dBA, ~50W
FPU+Valley (extreme HD) with max fans
CPU (UV): Max 62C, ~2.8GHz, ~30W
GPU: Max 69C, 1770+MHz, ~50W
Apex Legends - 1080p all max, 4GB VRAM, 90 FOV
CPU (UV): 54-61C, mostly 4GHz, 15-21W
GPU: Max 75C, 1700+MHz, ~50W
Time Spy (1 run):
Score: 3726, Graphics: 3587
Fire Strike (1 run):
Score: 8223, Graphics: 9468
Gallery (credits to @D13H4RD)
Conclusion: Good budget gaming laptop with some extras
Pros: Good build quality, good cooling, tons of ports, not that flashy, useful software
Cons: Not everyone likes the mechanical keyboard (normal keyboard option coming soon), audio needs tuning, CPU performance issue caused by firmware
Thanks for reading! Feel free to leave your comment if you have any questions/inquiries/thoughts.
fargonaz reacted to Lady Fitzgerald in Server Storage and Redundancy Techniques and Software
All my drives, boot, data, and backup, are now SSDs. I gave away most of my spinners (I still have the original 5400 rpm 2.5" 500GB Seagate HDDs from my notebooks and a couple of 7200 rpm 2.5" 500GB WD Blacks but they are mothballed).
My "redundancy" is a close cousin to sneakernet. Drive failure is not the only cause of data loss (malware, theft, disaster, user error, etc. are also causes for data loss) so my emphasis is on a solid backup scheme. On my desktop machine (deceased with a new one under construction), I have a set of four backup drives for each data drive in the machine (all SSDs): two of each set are kept onsite in a drawer and the other two are kept offsite in my safe deposit box at my credit union. I swap the onsite and offsite backups no less than once a month to ensurre the offsite backups are as up to date as practical.
Since any drive, including backup drives, can irrecoverably fail at anytime without warning, I have the extra backup drives (my so called redundancy). It saved my bacon data once when a corrupted data drive corrupted a backup drive (I also tweaked my backup procedure a bit after that).
I switched to SSDs because the HDDs I was lugging back and forth between home and my credit union were killing my shoulders and back. They also ate up a lot of space and I was running out of room to store them. To justify the expense, I decided to keep my then nine year old pickup for another eight years (it was a year old when I bought it). That actually saved me half money I would have spent otherwise.
I got a Pelican case to transport the backup drives in.
I made a pair of antistatic foam "egg crates" (pigeon holes?) to keep the bare drives in. They are a slip fit inside the Pelican case. The blue ribbons are for lifting the egg crate out of the Pelican case and a drawer.
There are way more slots in the egg crate than I will ever need (there is no way I'll ever have 11 data drives) but that's how the sizing worked out. The ribbons are blue because that was what I had on hand (besides, I like blue ? ).
I keep one egg crate with half of the backup drives in my safe deposit box and the other one with the other half of the backup drives in a drawer.
I've moved the egg crate to a smaller drawer since this picture was taken. The fact it fits in the smaller drawer perfectly was pure dumb luck. I've also added a fifth data drive (with four more backup drives; two per egg crate) since these pictures were taken).
Updating backups is simple. In my old desktop machine, I had three 2.5" hotswap bays (the new one will have four; I won't need more than that often enough to bother with putting in more than four...for now). I would plug in up to three backup drives, then use FreeFileSync, a folder/file syncing program, to update the drives simultaneously (each backup drive being plugged in had to be for different data drives). It took just a few seconds to plug in the backup drives, no more than a minute or two for the computer to find and index the drives, and just a few seconds to start the backups. Then, I would amuse myself (use your imagination but keep it clean) until all three backups were done, which usually took only a few minutes, shut down all the instances of FreeFileSync, remove the backup drives, then rinse and repeat until done. I could even keep using the computer while the backups were updating. Easy peasy.
Storing the backups powered down and disconnected from the computer prevents them from getting infected should the computer get infected. Even though I have full time AV and antimalware protection running, I run scans prior to updating my backups just to be on the safe side (yeah, I'm that paranoid). Having the offsite backup protects my data should my home burn down. Updating the backups at least once a month also ensures the SSDs won't lose data due to the charge that denotes the data leaking down (not likely but why take chances).
Besides backing up data, I also make an image of the boot drive so, if the OS gets borked, I can easily restore it. Same is true if the boot drive croaks (I had it happen once; It took me only 45 minutes to get the computer back up and running with most of the time spent being on replacing the old drive).
Since my desktop machine died and has been parted out and the new machine hasn't been finished yet (health issues and life happening), I keep the data and backup SSDs refreshed by plugging each data SSD and a backup SSD into my notebook via SATA to USB cables. It's a bit tedious but still doesn't take too long. I need to do it only once a month just before and after I swap out the onsite and offsite backups.
My notebooks are handled a bit differently. The one I'm currently using has only data that is also contained on one of the desktop's data drives so I just keep a couple of 2TB SSDs in USMs (Universal Storage Modules) that have a clone of the notebook's drive in it. Usually, I just use FreeFileSync to update the data partition only of the clones. I also use the USM as a sneakernet to do a two way sync with the folders it shares with the desktop data drive. Since the desktop data drive also gets backed up (to the teeth), I feel the notebook is more than adequately protected this way.
Every once in a blue moon (genrally after adding or updating programs), I'll reclone the notebook backups. I also make images of the OS and System Reserved partitions. If the drive in my one drive wonder of a notebook should completely die, I can remove a drive from one of the USMs and swap it into the notebook in just a few minutes no matter where I am.
fargonaz reacted to Fasauceome in I7-7700 vs I5-9400f
Wait what? I don't quite think this is worded correctly. An i7 7700 has 4 cores and hyperthreading, so it can sort of act like 8, but the i5 has 6 cores and 6 threads only. However, benchmarks have shown the 2 extra cores are quite handy, and actually either come quite close or even surpass the hyperthreading.
Also @Flyingliz the i7 7700 goes for quite a good price on eBay, you might actually make money by selling it and getting the i5 if the price difference in buying is only $80.
fargonaz reacted to homeap5 in Will these parts match each other?
...because you don't understand what I was talking. You commented my part about BeQuiet, where I wrote about choosing better PSU from the same company - and you're answer that BeQuiet is better than other similar PSU. So you miss my point.
About rest - yes, I prefer Intel over AMD.
Even if few last sets of PC I made was based on AMD - so I'm not a person who using or building "only Intel platforms".
OP question was: "Are these part gonna match each other? And are they good?"
My answer was - yes, they're good or at least not bad. That's all.