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TheFriendlyHacker

Member
  • Content Count

    82
  • Joined

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About TheFriendlyHacker

  • Title
    Member

Contact Methods

  • Discord
    TheFriendlyHacker#1517
  • Steam
    DaFriendlyHacker
  • Origin
    DaFriendlyHacker
  • UPlay
    AFriendlyHacker
  • Battle.net
    DaFriendlyHacker
  • PlayStation Network
    DaFriendlyHacker

Profile Information

  • Location
    The Ether
  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Programming, computer stuff, naval stuff
  • Biography
    3 years of IT experience as a level 2 and 3 technician. Studying computer science + cyber security. Loves programming. Easily amused by shiny objects.
  • Occupation
    (former) Level 3 IT Technician. College Student (currently)

System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 5 2600x
  • Motherboard
    MSI B450
  • RAM
    16GB DDR4 2933mhz
  • GPU
    GTX 1070
  • Case
    Fractal R3 Define
  • Storage
    500GB Samsung 960 EVO + 2TB 7200RPM HDD
  • PSU
    750W
  • Display(s)
    3x 1080p monitors. One of them is even okay for gaming!
  • Cooling
    Corsair H100i Pro
  • Keyboard
    RedDragon K552
  • Mouse
    Logitech G300s
  • Sound
    Bose SoundLink Mini II & some $25 LogiTech gaming headset
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro
  • Laptop
    2012 MacBook Pro with SSD, additional HDD and 16GB of RAM

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  1. Awesome! The RAM is definitely the least "reputable" part of this PC (all other components are from known/reputable brands). Also, do you happen to know anything about / have an opinion of the Corsair Vengeance RAM I linked in my last comment? Think it'll be a good / reliable replacement?
  2. A few days ago, when this first happened, re-seating the RAM did fix it... until today. Today, re-seating the RAM did not fix it... until right now....for some reason. Also, I just now put both sticks into the other two available slots. When booting up, I got a message stating that the RAM sticks were not in their "optimal configuration" (basically not using the two recommended slots). But when the PC booted, it did show all 16GB as it should. But given the inconsistency of this over the past few days, I'm hesitant to definitively say that it's "fixed" at this point.
  3. I wasn't able to run MemTestx86 (it wanted to run off of an external USB drive, and I cannot find my flash drive for the life of me). But I was able to get a screenshot of CPUZ's memory tab! Mind you, this was taken when all 16GB of RAM suddenly started showing up / being usable again.
  4. Well shit. I just booted my PC back up to run the aforementioned software, and NOW it's showing the correct amount of RAM in task manager. I'll still continue as planned. Heh. Guess this is proof of the inconsistency of the issue.
  5. Thank you for the offer, but sadly, I am in the USA. I'm going to have a look at CPU Z and MemTestx86 first and see what it comes up with. From my own experience, I figure the off-brand RAM is likely the issue. Especially since my CPU is (was) a brand-new Ryzen, and the mobo is (was) a brand-new mid-end model from MSI. I assume those two components are solid, considering the reputable companies behind them. While the RAM is from god knows where. Hopefully that's the case
  6. They are matching sticks (well...in that they both came in the same kit and have the same heat spreader on them). They aren't from a mainstream brand though. They're "rated" for 3000mhz (although I've only been able to get them up to 2933mhz with XMP...so near enough). Ever since I got them, Task Manager has showed a clock speed that's roughly half of their 2933mhz speed. After Googling it, I read that it's apparently normal for Windows to show the speed as 1/2 like that when you have two sticks (seemed strange to me, but benchmarks I've run in the past showed it at 2933mhz).
  7. Alright, so I just booted her up with one of the sticks removed. Task Manager appears to be showing exactly what one would expect with a single 8GB stick (screenshot attached)
  8. My other specs are: - Ryzen 5 2600x - GTX 1070 - MSI B450M Tomahawk All of those parts (including the RAM) were purchased together and assembled into this PC when it was built (in late 2018). And everything worked fine until now. Given there have been no significant hardware changes (aside from swapping out the secondary 1TB HDD with a 3TB one a few months ago), I can't imagine anything suddenly changed that caused this (although you may have some experience that I don't) Lemme try it with just one 8GB stick rq, I will report back.
  9. Thanks for the insight! Hopefully it's just a bad RAM stick, since that's the cheapest to replace.
  10. I have 16GB of RAM on my PC (2x8GB sticks), and there have been zero problems with it until now. Looong story short, I noticed unusually high RAM usage a few days ago. Upon checking Task Manager, it shows that I have a total of 16GB of RAM (correct)...but it also shows that only 8GB of it are being used (see attached image). I took out both RAM sticks and swapped the slots they were in (aka, just put the stick in "slot 1" into "slot 2" and vise versa). When I booted back up, it showed 16GB total, as well as 16GB "in use". But today, it went back to showing 16GB in total,
  11. Good to know. Even 90W for a CPU that powerful is pretty good. I assume it can go above that if it's really being stressed, but I'm impressed nonetheless!
  12. The title says it all. I'm curious to know if this 65w TDP claim is true, or if it's a "best case scenario", where only 1-2 cores are really being pushed. I currently have a 2600x, which has a rated TDP of 95W. Is it really true that Zen+ can pack two more cores *and* have a much lower TDP?
  13. I am trying to recommend a gaming laptop for a friend. His budget is ~$750. He's not expecting to play modern AAA games on this laptop, but he does want to play some older games (eg, older CoD's, Skyrim + mods, the original Half Lives, Rocket League, etc). From what I've seen, the two most common discrete graphics cards on a $750 "Gaming" laptop are the GTX 1050 TI and the GTX 1650 Max-Q. I've looked up various benchmarks for each, and...have found conflicting results. Some say the 1050 TI is better, others say the 1650 Max-Q is better. Do any of you happen to know which car
  14. Thanks for the recommendations! So far, it's looking like the Fractal Meshify C is my best bet. She looks like a beastie of a case, especially for the price. I'll be looking more into it myself, and will post back once I've made a decision and have some personal experience with the case.
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