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About ultra_code

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    Computers, games, and software (retro and modern), as well as programming. Oh, forums too. :)

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  1. Okay, just double-checking. As for that red thread locker stuff, at least with Loctite's product, they state: "It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C)." Heh, I mean... guess it really wouldn't come off. I'll give it a shot. Actually, looking at Loctite's other thread lockers, I actually have seen quite a lot of blue thread locker used with laptop screws. Didn't know what it was, until now. The more you know.
  2. Hello, Okay, so this one is a bit weird. First time this has happened to me. I was helping a friend over a Discord call build his PC, and to help him install his M.2 SSD, I grabbed my Asus Maximus VII Hero and went to unscrew the M.2 standoff from the board so that I could physically show him what to do through my face-cam, when the "anchor" for the standoff decided to come out with the standoff. Yeah, not good. Ideally I want to reattach the "anchor" to the board, but just want to make sure I use the right... adhesive. Is super-glu
  3. Sorry, I sounded a bit of a douche, to say the least. Not the best decision I have ever made. I know what you were going for, although I didn't want to set up my uncle's PC again to test said thing (I have limited working space, and only one test monitor to use), as I was busy doing something else. Selfish of me, I know. I did happen to finish what I was working on, and I have to at least boot up his machine one more time to make sure everything is as I want it to be, so I tried OpenOffice, and it does work. Therefore, LibreOffice might be missing prerequisite software, although I
  4. Irrelevant. I want to know why LibreOffice doesn't work. I'm not going to say anything more on the matter regarding OO.
  5. Um, yeah, I guess, but LibreOffice is better than OpenOffice, because LibreOffice can take what it likes from OpenOffice, but not the other way around. Also that doesn't answer my original questions.
  6. Hello, I'm having issues getting either LibreOffice 6.4.7 or the more up-to-date 7.0.4 to work on my uncle's old Acer pre-built PC that I upgraded with a new SSD, CPU, and a clean install of Windows 10 and the latest drivers I could find. Every time I go to launch the program, it shows the LibreOffice splash screen as usual, creates a blank white widow that would house the base LibreOffice app from which you can launch Writer, Calc, etc., but then it just sits there, never able to actually populate that widow, resulting in the application "Not Responding" in the eyes of Windows. Th
  7. An OEM license? RIP. That would make the most sense. Well, unless anyone else has any other ideas, I'll try getting 2019 for him then. That, or LibreOffice. Thanks for the help.
  8. 'Tis a "MS Office 2007 Home and Student License", whatever that is. I'm guessing it's one of their entry-level licenses.
  9. Hello there, I'm having a bit of a rough time trying to install MS Office 2007 under Windows 10 on my uncle's old PC that I upgraded with a new SSD and will soon upgrade with a better CPU, cooler, and RAM config. From the old install that was on a hard drive, which was updated from Windows 7 to Windows 10, I pulled using Produkey the product key for MS Office 2007 which was being used for Office 2010, along with the W10 license, naturally, and while the W10 license works flawlessly as usual, the Office 2007 key is not. I have tried it with Office 2013, 2010, and then finally severa
  10. Long over-do update. I tried the thread paste, gave it like a week to perhaps solidify, it never did, and I was still having leaks. So, before trying JB Weld, I attempted one more thing that I know works at sealing things pretty well - JB Weld's silicone. Been using the stuff to lightly reseal CPUs that I have delidded after I had repasted them. Gave it about a day or two to dry, and then tested again, and success! There wasn't a leak anymore from between the fittings. For the past week, water with loop cleaner has been in the temporary loop, and no leaks so far. This s
  11. I do have JB weld on hand, but I don't wish to do that. Too extreme. As for thread paste, I'm guessing this would do, no? https://www.oatey.com/products/oatey-great-white-pipe-joint-compound-with-ptfe--275767012
  12. Yes, but of course. First tested with the Leak-tester, noticed there was a leak somewhere, filled the loop up with a little water to see where it was leaking from, took it apart, applied some pipe tape, didn't work, applied some more, and still nothing. Hence, why I'm here.
  13. Hello, I have a very basic problem (the title says it all): I have two fittings that aren't exactly playing well together. I bought this old Socket A/478-compatible CPU water block in the hopes of eventually doing some retro-overclocking-on-water, but the issue with it is that it used a rather non-standard fitting and tube diameter. Thankfully, I found a compression fitting from Amazon that works with the tubing that the waterblock uses and then converts to a 1/4" BSPP male thread (which is the same as G1/4" AFAIK). I currently have it set up so that I go from that spec
  14. 'Twas not to be. First, it wasn't that one wire came apart from the Dupont connector, both ends did (since one end came loose, so did the other end). This required me to shove out the dupont connector from the PCIe power plastic housing, only to then find out that there's no easy way to undo the inner bending of the Dupont connector to reattach the two ends of the wire together back to it. Soldering seemed out of the question. At this point, I think it's a lost-cause unless I can find equally big Dupont connectors, the size of which I don't personally have, and I'm