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Everything posted by Kedohawyr

  1. From the manual it looks to be DDR3L ram, which means it's not compatible with your garden variety laptop ram (normal sticks require a higher voltage). Often systems using that type of RAM are soldered and not designed with wide tolerances. So it is probably upgradable but without a list of tested DDR3L modules you'll be rolling the dice as to whether anything you buy actually works in it or not. If you can figure out the exact model number of the RAM inside then you may be able to find it as a replacement part and order another identical stick individually.
  2. It's a very useful tool. My best example was buying a very cheap rebranded Chinese laptop a while back. First thing I did was make a Macrium image of the drive before reformatting and doing my own clean install of Windows 10. But I discovered a few devices that weren't recognized and there was no manufacturers site to download drivers from, at least none in english that I could find by using the brand's model number or info in the super generic BIOS. So I plugged in my external HDD, mounted the original factory image as a read only drive and used the 'Have disk' option to let Windows simply sc
  3. A Ryzen 3100 or 3300X would be my recommendation as well, and an older B450 motherboard (as long as the BIOS is updated to support 3000) will help keep the price down. One thing to realize is that at this budget your offline tasks (rendering, simulating) are going to be slow regardless and so the high single core performance of the Ryzen 3 will ensure that the actual program is still fast and responsive (both AutoCAD and 3DS Max are mostly single core bound until you start a render). I'm not sure about a Quadro at this price range, even with poorer software optimization a 4GB consumer card is
  4. That looks like the DC power connector used in a lot motorized recliners and lift chairs, though as a simple 2 pin connector with fix polarity I suspect it might be used in other applications too. What is on the other side of the cable?
  5. I'd agree with these except for the QVO whose performance seems to show it is very immature while the pricing isn't anywhere good enough to choose it over the TLC drives (looking at newegg now I'm not even seeing a price advantage at the moment). Generally the MX500 and WD Blue 3D are the go to choices for fast, reliable SSD mass storage. The EVO line is very good but tends to be pricer than it needs to be (very few people are running workloads in which the EVO's superior attributes make any difference and most that are would be better served by an NVME) The
  6. For normal use there is no noticeable difference between a SATA SSD and an NVME SSD (assuming neither is a DRAM-less model). You can watch the below video to see Linus and co perform a blind test on things like gaming and basic video editing. The reason is that the big difference in numbers is the sequential speed and you rarely hit those speeds for long unless you are copying very large files (from equally fast drives) or are doing a task like video export on a very high bitrate (4k/8k) video file. For random access speed, which is what most things really need, bo
  7. Moreover with some newer Ryzen CPUs even an NVMe drive can disable certain SATA ports. This is because the CPU comes with a set of pins that directly provide 1 NVMe slot and 2 SATA ports (in addition to whatever the chipset provides). However the pins can't do both at the same time which means that an NVMe in that particular slot will disable both of the SATA ports using those pins.
  8. Recheck with another benchmark but it looks like your CPU heatsink is doing little to no work. The turbo figures show that the CPU gave into thermal throttling before even reaching the base clock speed. Assuming the heatsink is even attached (has it been mounted properly?) the issue is probably due to bad thermal compound application which could be any of these: Too much applied (you only need a small amount, many videos on Youtube to show the 'rice grain' required) None applied at all Not properly cleaned (heatsink was removed, placed on dirty surface, remounted without pr
  9. Not quite. Your board lists that it "Supports 2242/2280/22110 storage devices" which are what the three holes are for. The 22 at the front refers to a width of 22mm (just under 1 inch) while the other part, 42/80/110, refers to the length which is also in mm. The longest of those, 110mm, was only ever used by enterprise (datacenter) drives and is disappearing from use. While desktop motherboards often support them they usually won't fit in a laptop. 80mm is by far the most common and is the defacto standard for almost all M.2 drives. The remaining standards
  10. It's a Dell, which means that like most big OEMs the Windows 10 key is normally tied to that specific motherboard (the key is saved in the UEFI BIOS which is why Windows 10 machines usually don't have those licence stickers on the side anymore). Create a Windows 10 installer on a USB stick, install on the new SSD (maybe unplug all other HDDs to be sure you don't accidentally format over anything) and Windows should automatically pickup the key and once it does an internet check you should have an activated copy of Windows again.
  11. I actually bought a 'cheap' laptop ($200 on sale after adding an SDD upgrade) under the assumption that it would be a placeholder and it turned out to be good enough apart from battery life that I'm still happily using it (the fact that it's totally silent and cool is a big selling point). Some conclusions I've come to after using it for about a year are: 4GB is surprisingly good for Windows 10 if you're only doing light web browsing, Netflix and Office programs. By comparison I've used or upgraded a Windows 8 tablet with 1GB and Windows 10 laptop with 2GB and both had frequent and
  12. No. The common phrase "RAID is not backup" is appropriate here. RAID only protects from hardware failures, and only certain types of failures at that. The rest of the time a RAID array will keep two copies of the same corrupted and unusable data, and depending on the RAID hardware you use (like the cheaper controller on your motherboard) may actually make it harder to recover if anything goes wrong. The purpose of a RAID 1 array is for immediate continuation of business (i.e. a drive fails and you don't have to stop while performing a restoration), not to safeguard data. Frankly it
  13. Yes. The performance cost of a second display for desktop use is basically nothing, especially for a mere 1366 x 768 display. To give you an idea I was running an extended desktop all the way back on my Windows 98 laptop (Pentium III @ 800mhz, Ati Rage Pro graphics with a whopping 8MB of video ram) with no loss in performance.
  14. While you can get internet on another machine connected to the same port it may still be a router issue, specifically a DHCP one (I had to deal with a flaky router for a long time that would do this, ultimately requiring machines to be setup manually to avoid getting stuck on 'no internet' after shutting down or sleeping a few times). Use ipconfig and make sure that your assigned IP, gateway, subnet mask and DNS all make sense compared to your router's settings. If your IP starts with 169.254.?.? then you very likely have an issue with your router's DHCP server not working properly
  15. Something I've never understood from the moment of the original move vlog is why Linus, when presented with a huge warehouse and the ability to design the floorplan almost from scratch, looked at it and said "I want you to build a tiny cramped closet under the stairs so I can put the important servers containing my company's work in there".
  16. Subnautica needs to go on the SSD, it has some serious issues when chunks don't load in fast enough, you can become trapped inside larger objects if they finish loading after you were already there.
  17. If you're randomly picking a drive from a pile then a 2.5" will on average be quieter than a 3.5". However 2.5" drives are quiet mostly by accident and as a result specific low vibration 3.5" drives are even quieter. The 3.5" WD Red series (the regular ones, not the 7200rpm Red Pro) are the go to for silent systems that need HDD storage because of their outstanding acoustics. Due to similar builds the WD Greens were also very quiet but had certain quirks which led them to be discontinued.
  18. I've personally gone through this twice, once simply because of years of wear (about 44,000 hours of on time with daily power cycling) on the capacitors and once due to a power surge damaging them. In the first case I think I was able to get it to come back to life with repeated attempts for 6 days before it finally died completely. In the second case I was able to get it to power on exactly once before it was gone.
  19. Yes, it very much sounds like a PSU issue and it sounds like it's going to fail for good VERY SOON. The times I've experienced this type of failure, both from computer PSUs and the ones integrated into monitors, I got maybe a dozen more successful startups out of them before they finally died for good.
  20. The content was good and thanks for the heads up on the new channel (sounds interesting, like classic LTT shoot and drop it in one go filming) but there was just something weird about the video quality. At first I thought that something was wrong with my connection and Youtube was bumping me down to 360p and up again but it turned out to be the video itself. Everytime the shot switched from the wider one to the closer one (with Linus's head still in frame) the video became very noticably blurry, like the lense was out of focus. Is this bad digital zooming or was it intentional?
  21. Yes, those scores are perfectly normal for that kind of drive. I'm assuming you were under the impression that 7200rpm was "fast" (or is it feeling slower now in which case go to the very end of my post for advance) which was only ever true when compared to 5400rpm drives and even then the margin was not only small but highly dependent on the drive's density. To illustrate my point here is the same benchmark which I just ran on my 5400rpm* 4TB WD Red drive. WD Red 4TB You can see that despite being a "slower" drive it is unquestionably faster and that's bec
  22. The sequential numbers are definitely good for that drive, the random numbers are toward the lower end of normal but it's the deep queue speeds (175MB/s when their test should be reporting >300MB/s for an 860 Evo) which are getting you the "below expectations" remark. Also despite the initially good sequential values your sustained writes show a larger than expected fall off when run repeatedly. Given those two factors the first thing I'd check is what temperature the SSD is reporting during the benchmark, it feels a lot like the controller is overheating under high load and thr
  23. Not at the same price, not even close. Even before the big price drop (before 3rd gen Ryzen launched the 2600 was about $230 up here in Canada) the 2600 was a better value for the dollar even before you considered the cooler advantage. Right now for the same performance you could easily be paying $100 extra to go to Intel (9400) once you include the cooler and board cost differences. Thanks to the price drop the 2600 is simply a great buy right now.
  24. You'd need to figure out how you want to secure it but another option is to extend the card using a PCIe extension cable since the card doesn't have any rear IO (the slot cover can even be unscrewed so that it's just the bare board)
  25. The short answer is no, you can't split normal SATA cables without some weird and dangerous magic (they'd have to appear as one big drive to the SATA port). However if you have free PCIe or PCI slots you have plenty of options, what you're looking for is usually refered to as a RAID controller card (though you'll find a few that don't actually have a RAID chipset, just bare bone SATA ports) and they start at about $25. https://www.newegg.com/Controllers-RAID-Cards/SubCategory/ID-410