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Chriexpe

Member
  • Content Count

    41
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About Chriexpe

  • Title
    Member

System

  • CPU
    i5 6600k
  • Motherboard
    Z170-p
  • RAM
    8GB 2400MHz
  • GPU
    GTX 970
  • Case
    Aerocool Aero 500
  • Storage
    1Tb HDD + 500Gb SSD
  • PSU
    XFX500 500w
  • Display(s)
    LG29um69G
  • Cooling
    Cheap PC Yes cooler
  • Keyboard
    Logitech K120
  • Mouse
    Logitech g402
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

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  1. Agreed, it might be very difficult to find another 1080 Ti with a problem that isn't on the die, but considering how distorced GPU prices are, this might actually worth it Yep, but unfortunately it costs almost $600, very expensive, aside from the fact that Alibaba always were so confusing
  2. Sorry, forgot to specify, it's the main GPU die, GP102. And all websites that I've found still use images from GPU from 10 years ago so I just ignore, and there is only a few GPU repair shops in my country, and all of them don't have it.
  3. My crappy power supply killed my 1080 Ti (Gigabyte Gaming OC), I've sent it to a local repair shop in my country and they where able to fix all the power management part but the die (GP102, yes the main one) unfortanently was dead, and they didn't have the chip to substitute, since then I've been searching for any broken 1080 Ti with hopefully a working die but can't find anywhere... So I wonder if you guys know any GPU repair shops that I can reach out and buy the chip from them (if they have one).
  4. I found this Id-cooling SE-207-XT that seems to be a great option for the price, but the heatpipes looks kinda slim, do you guys have any other reccomendation or advice? I don't care about RGB or looks (although this black version looks dope), I just want a cold CPU for gaming/overclocking.
  5. Forgot to add, the PSU is working just fine, just the GPU seems burnt
  6. I was gaming NFS Playback with everything on ultra without Vsync at 84°C (temperature that GPU always stayed during gaming) and then everything turned off, after some tests I realized that the PSU won't turn on when connected to the 8-pin PCI input of the GPU, and when the PSU is on and I connect, it instantly turns off... Does someone have a hint if this is just some fuse from the GPU blown or might be something worst? Also, some days ago I opened it because I saw a tape with some numbers in the PCB (probably from an RMA of the first buyer) and after I closed it, I forgot to check if the fa
  7. So I bought an second hand 1080Ti 2 weeks ago, used for a couple of days with everything working fine then I remembered that Nvidia allowed gsync to be activated on freesync monitors (in my case, LG 29um69g), since then I was using just fine until saturday a friend of mine commented that his GTX1660 was underperforming on PerformanceTest (program), so I also tested mine and was underperforming aswell, then I overclocked it (just slightly more, not agressive) for the benchmark using Nvidia Inspector and results got considerably better (note that when Gsyng was activated the test was broken and
  8. And what about Asrock x570 Steel Legend, worth it? Or should I spend 30 bucks more for b550 Tomahawk? Also for mostly overclocking
  9. Now I wonder why CPU-Z display info about CPU frequency on the memory tab (that NB Frequency)... But thank you for the help! I thought that these programs showed real time frequency, not half of it (as what DDR stand for...).
  10. Considering that I can sell my i5 6600k for ~$170 I would pay more $70 bucks for a new i7 6700k from Aliexpress (I won't be buying those ES) because here in my country even used ones cost more. Or like, is the upgrade even worth it? I have a Z170-P with GTX970 and 16GB 2133mhz (2x8GB), in some new games (like Metro Exodus, BF1 and BFV) my CPU was bottlenecking, so I wonder if upgrading it will solve at some extent the problems, or I should hold a bit more and buy basically a new computer (Ryzen CPU, faster RAM, motherboard and GPU...) on black friday?
  11. On IDLE it sits around 700 and 1400mhz while under heavy use is 3900mhz
  12. CPU-Z also display 2000mhz meanwhile the other one is 2133mhz
  13. I was looking for RAM memory to match the one that I already have (8GB 2133mhz L14) and I got this one, after installed the computer turned on but didn't show any image, so I needed to try more times, once I got working I checked Aida64 results and used its memory test, and that's when I discovered that this new RAM, aside from running at only 2000mhz (not 2133mhz as the old one) it is significantly slower on L2, have higher latency and have 2 rank (although I don't think it make any difference)... Should I send it back and ask for a refund or this won't make any difference? Old on
  14. I couldn't overclock because my PPD decreased to less than 11k, but I tried to rise max temp + voltage + power and temperature target to maximun and my PPD increased from 80k to almost 94k, and if I left some more time it would increase even more, also I was able to overclock my memory, but when I put it to +496 MHz FAH just crashed (Error downloading array energyBuffer: clEnqueueReadBuffer (-5) and BAD_WORK_UNIT (114 = 0x72)), but anyway, I won't force my GPU to these pretty high temperatures
  15. I was testing different clocks and my final result is: any overclock, even if it's minimal will make my PPD go down from 70k to less than 11k....
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