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About junzhi2002

  • Title

Profile Information

  • Location
    Spiritually at every place of this world
  • Gender
  • Interests
    Freedom and Hardware
  • Biography
    WOW!! A homo sapien
  • Occupation
    A job which everyone experienced b4


  • CPU
    Ryzen 7 3700X
  • Motherboard
    Asus TUF Gaming X570-Plus WiFi
  • RAM
    Patriot Viper 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 16-18-18-36
  • GPU
    Zotac RTX 2070 Super AMP Extreme (OC to 2000MHz)
  • Case
    Cooler Master MasterBox MB511
  • Storage
    256GB ADATA SX6000 Pro NVME
  • PSU
    Corsair RM650 80+ Gold
  • Display(s)
    2*16 Arduino LCD :)
  • Cooling
    My jokes
  • Keyboard
    On screen keyboard (It works)
  • Mouse
    Futuristic touchscreen, BEWARE! Force sensitive!
  • Sound
    Telepathy Headsets
  • Operating System
    UEFI BIOS (Who needs WIndows and macOS when OS don't work)

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  1. I found one which is TP-Link Archer AX10, don't know it's good or not but I cost about $80. Review says that it deliver good speed with AX and I think it will future proof a little when AX devices start to become common. But I think I will mark this question as solved after this
  2. So the solution is to just change it to a decent AC router? 300Mbps download and 100Mbps upload capped.
  3. Wouldn't it improve anything? Like latency or something else? Or a decent AC router will perform same as the AX router? On the technical specification, "budget-ish" AX WiFi router has more and faster cores then same price AC WiFi router, will that impact performance? I have about 6~7 device connected almost 24/7 and max device connected on it will be about 10, in a 236,000 single storey house.
  4. With the increasing usage of Zoom online class recently, my ISP included router just can't keep up with the demand of the bandwidth and keep crashing. Although I took off the shroud/cover of the router and add a fan blowing towards the router, the frequent crashing solved but occasion crash still exists. Yesterday I stumble on a cheap router and review says it's quite capable of handling heavy traffic, giving me low latency and high bandwidth Internet. Link below vvv https://www.tp-link.com/us/home-networking/wifi-router/archer-ax10/ Almost all device on the network uses WiFi
  5. C drive is SSD while the rest is HDD Peak transfer speed is about 80~100MB/s No... there isnt any warning nor errors
  6. I encountered a disk usage problem for D when I am copying files from D to E just now and Google search gives no clear solution for this situation. Task manager stated that ntoskrnl is using the disk frequently, is it the problem of setting my portable drive E: to high performance that it cache the file from D into C then move to E:? P.S. D and C refer to drive D and drive C, it keeps formatting to emoji
  7. Is this same as this? https://comnet.lk/index.php/product/segotep-gp750g-gaming-psu-650w-80-plus-gold-black/ Found on a random website, just for the reference of what the product looks like.
  8. It's free I picked it up somewhere, it's called reuse, turns out to be good for environment.
  9. S.M.A.R.T. test? From where, what app? Fujitsu's HDD diag tools? Got it.
  10. Recently I dropped one of my HDD (more like a slight bump to it, dropped from a chair to ground in an enclosure), and I have concern about it fail when I am using it. The drive is used for unimportant files and I just wanted to keep using it, anyone here can tell if this drive is failing? Here's the noise of the drive during sequential read/write using CrystalDiskMark and copying files: Voice 001 is the start up sound of the drive Voice 002 is the sound of 1.75GB video file written to the drive Voice 003 is the sound of 2.29GB random pictures (~220 pic) written to the
  11. Nice point, but I didn't even mentioned what would I do with my system though...... I wanted to do video editing, 32GB sticks are for "kinda" future proof. At least for 2~3 years from now. Since AM4 will use DDR4 for its life time. Actually they are the cheapest B-die kit in my region, but not the cheapest 16GB (2 x 8GB) kit out there, but the kit is USD $2~$10 more expensive from cheapest equivalent 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200, so I got it. Edit: "F4-3600C16D-16GVKC" aren't B-die haha but good recommendation! But they are much more expensive then my current Vipers USD
  12. So just dial in the numbers and wait for the memory test? And only increase the voltage when needed? I think I get it now
  13. Good point there, noted. Buildziod said that running memory test only stress the memory but not the FCLK so should I run another test when I am in Windows?
  14. 3600MHz and staying with the CL16 is a sweet spot? So...? Only increase it when I face instability issue or can I just push higher voltage just because I am lazy??
  15. A newbie here without any RAM overclocking experience. There are informations out there saying that tighter timings and higher frequency gives better performance for the RAM. But I am wondering should I overclock my RAM to higher frequency or tighter timings? Extra question: Can I tighten RAM timings without changing the frequency? Will increasing voltage do the job? System: Ryzen 3700X Asus TUF Gaming X570-Plus Patriot Viper 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 16-18-18-36 <- converted to USD will be $84.11 sadly it's the cheapest 16GB 3200 kit in my country