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Shrepto

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About Shrepto

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  1. Thanks everyone. I'll assume for the most part they're not really existent. I figured this kind of tech would be something that doesn't server much of a function anymore now that most everything is already wireless. Guess I'll just have to start a petition for a wireless Scimitar Pro.
  2. Mmm, I'm having no such luck finding one. Any idea what the proper terminology for it would be? My searches usually end up bringing me wired hubs and wireless internet USB.
  3. I'm struggling to find this, and I am beginning to wonder if it is because it doesn't exist. I was hoping to find a wireless USB hub. My goal is to build a lap-deck similar to the Corsair Lapdog, but I would like to be able to plug in my Scimitar pro to it which only comes as a wired option. Anyone know of anything that might help with this?
  4. I am not very familiar with wiring, nor is the person who I'm trying to solve this for. Was hoping there would be a plug n play option available.
  5. LED sign has a controller that does flashing, on/off but is battery powered. Has the below connector for the LEDs, believe it is called a JST SM 2 pin. Looking for a controller that is wall powered instead of battery powered but struggling to find one. Anyone got something on hand they could link to that doesn't require soldering and is just plug and play?
  6. She's going to test it again and see. Hopefully she can find the reasoning for the dropped frames. I wasn't aware it would tell you why they were being dropped, that's a neat feature.
  7. Someone new to streaming I'm watching was dropping frames last night to the point where it was massively impacting the stream. The webcam and audio weren't lagging, just the game. Long story short she stopped and we went over some of the possible issues. Her setup is a GTX 1070 and Ryzen 1700. She's streaming in 720p with her resolution at 1080p and 144hz. The game was Resident Evil 7. I'm not very familiar with streaming settings and all that, but my general consensus was that playing at 144hz and encoding on the GTX 1070 was too much for it to handle and that switching to CPU based
  8. I recently built an AMD 3400G build in an Inwin Chopin. I was very excited about the idea of having such a small PC for my bedroom to just surf the web on and light gaming. I became very disappointed though when I fired it up and shortly after heard the PSU fan. It is RIDICULOUSLY loud. Was wondering if anyone else had experience with this. I'm considering using a PICO PSU and power brick instead so I can get the silence I want out of it. Not sure where to get a good PICO from though, or even find a good one. Just want something in the 150w-200w range. Would also consider a different PS
  9. I don't have the numbers before this, but this was like one minute into Prime95. On the NH-D15S it doesn't go above 55c during the test. It would regularly hit temps in the low to mid 70s playing Apex Legends at 144hz 1440p. Now It barely comes close to 50c. I want to say it was a clog because pump speed was playing a MAJOR factor in its performance. This was on 3100 RPM extreme setting. Turning it to quiet setting would cause temps to rise by over 10c which shouldn't happen in a loop. I feel like the extra pressure from the pump speed was needed to bypass coolant through the blockage a
  10. I'll second the notion that your case is the culprit. No side ventilation nor front ventilation. There are extremely cheap cases out there that will fix your issue with no or little work involved.
  11. I've had the H115i which is a 280mm radiator and it performed well when it worked. Unfortunately after about 1.5 years of use it developed a clog I think. My 9700k was hitting 100c during Prime95 tests without an overclock. This has been a major turn off from AIOs for me. I would recommend the Noctua NH-D15. The worst case scenario is a fan stops working. You'll be able to diagnose that pretty fast and it has remarkable cooling capability.
  12. I should just say that it was indeed the Corsair AIO causing the issue. The NH-D15S is installed and doing a bangup job. Prime95 ran with no thermal issues on the undervolt, staying in the 40s and low 50s. If I've learned anything it is that I can't rely on a pump to not clog/go out. I think I'll be sticking with air cooling unless I ever decide to go full CLC.
  13. Picked up an NH D15S and will see if it fixes it. If not I'll just return it to Microcenter.
  14. Wondering if it could be caused from the pump being clogged. I don't have another cooler to test with though so this is kinda ehhh. Don't wanna' buy another CPU cooler just to end back up where I started and be down $90.
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