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Adrian_neuen

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About Adrian_neuen

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  1. Agreed. Loss of ARC is usually either a software glitch where the good old unplug everything and let it sit for 5 minutes and plug it back in and try again will work, or usually the cable having a bit of an issue. If that doesn't work then you most likely have a hardware failure. Try the sound bar on another TV and see if it works, at least then you can track down what exactly is playing up?
  2. There isn't a lot of difference between these TV's. It will probably come down to your loungeroom setup. If your really close to the TV then the curve may be useful, if your a little further away then flat is probably better. As for features? If you want HDR10+ the the Samsung 8 series, if you have the need for an Android TV interface, then the Sony. But it doesn't look like that model has Dolby Vision and Sony hates HDR10+ and don't support it. If you have a dark room and really want better color accuracy then the IPS panel in the LG may be better, but it's smaller. I don't think you can re
  3. The only two reason I can see for them not supporting HDR10+ is if - 1 - They have some sort of deal with Dolby to get Dolby Vision cheaper if they don't support HDR10+, or 2- It's just because they spent the money on DV licensing and now are having a sulk about a free version being developed after they spent the money. The first reason would be nice to know, it would at least then be understandable. But if it's the second, that's just shooting yourself in the foot in the long run and forcing people to choose rather than enticing people with the selling point of displaying ALL the for
  4. The more I dig into it the more it seems you need end to end support on every device. Seems strange as it's supposed to be a free open source type of format. With a PC set to HDR mode and WGC it should have the range necessary for displaying any of the formats as far as I can see and just rely on the decoding software of the player to send each frame of video with the required correct luxuriance values? As for the Chromecast or other consumer player I suppose I can see the point, it would make it guaranteed to work, just plug and play, It just makes it annoying for someone like me tryin
  5. I may just have to buy a Chromecast with Google TV and see what happens. I have another TV that could use a Chromecast if it doesn't work anyway. I'll follow up in a week or 2 and report on how it goes
  6. Yes, I understand that. But imagine pluging a PC into a HDR TV and setting the graphics setting for the graphics card to 10bit RBG. I was thinking that at those settings it should be capable of displaying any of those formats as long as the player on the PC can decode them? Would it just send the now decoded signal with correct luminance values out for each frame and with the TV set to HDR10 mode it should accept the full 10bit RGB HDR range, maybe?? Not sure if it would work that way, but it seems reasonable to me? Basically just use the TV as a dumb monitor?
  7. I went crazy last year and finally spent the big dollars on an OLED tv, I ended up getting the Sony A9G as it was on special at the time. This TV supports pretty much everything (Dolby Vision, HDR10 and HGL) except HDR10+. What I'd like to know is if I plugged in a Chromcast with Google TV (which supports HDR10+ playback) into it and set it to HDR10 mode, would it display HDR10+ content, with the Chromcast handling the per frame luminance adjustments and just sending a 10bit HDR signal to the TV? Anybody know or tried this?
  8. Unfortunately I'm in Australia and the warranty sticker removal on the heatsink is still a problem here, so the warranty is void. It's weird in some areas our consumer protection laws are alot better than the U.S. but in other ways they stink. So I bought another one and am currently waiting to see if I can find an old motherboard that someone is throwing out to plug it into and start probing around with a meter to see if I can find a problem with the power circuit.
  9. Just in case someone stumbles upon this some other time, here is a good breakdown of the Reference card PCB.
  10. True. used can be more risk them some people want though, but if used is ok then that would work well.
  11. Sounds like a very low budget I'd say go for an AMD with on-board graphics to begin with.
  12. The card itself is well build, fantastic power design and top quality components. The cooler though?? If you have bad airflow in your system then the blower design is a good idea and will work well, but if you had excellent air flow then I'd put some research time into looking at the after markets, some are good some are REALLY bad. :P But if your after a cheap solid card that will just WORK and keep working then the reference design is fine, not spectacular at cooling or noise level, but a solid design.
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