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About Kevin_Walter

  • Title

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Gender
  • Interests
    The usual stuff.
  • Occupation
    Professional Procrastinator


  • CPU
    Intel i5 6600k
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte Z170 Gaming 5
  • RAM
    Avexir Blitz 16GB DDR4
  • GPU
    MSI R9 390
  • Case
    NZXT S340 (amazing case)
  • Storage
    500GB WD Blue
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNova 750 G2
  • Cooling
    CoolerMaster Hyper 212 Evo
  • Keyboard
    Microsoft Sidewinder X4
  • Mouse
    Razer Deathadder
  • Sound
  • Operating System
    Win10 and Ubuntu

Recent Profile Visitors

1,150 profile views
  1. One of the best looking ones imo is the Hyper 212 Black Edition, but I've used Hyper 212 Evo before, and while it's undoubtedly one of the best coolers for the money, I wouldn't really say it's in any way aesthetically pleasing. Not as good as just having the pump/block on your CPU and a couple hoses leading to your rad that's tucked out of the way, anyway.
  2. Because all air coolers are big and ugly. They're not clean at all. That's why I'm still using the stock Wraith Prism that came with my CPU. The fan housing hides most of the heatsink, so it looks less ugly than most air coolers.
  3. I don't do much in the way of overclocking, so nearly any cooler is going to work fine. I'm currently using the Wraith Prism that came with my 3800x. As far as what I like... clean design. The cleaner the better. NZXT's coolers are really simple in their physical appearance, and the RGB lighting isn't intrusive. They would be the obvious choice if not for the fact that I kinda hate CAM. If I was able to control them with some other software, it would be great. Cooler Master also has some okay looking coolers, I suppose. Like this one (despite the RGB fans, which are... ick...):
  4. They make one of the ugliest ones on the market... lol I do appreciate some of the things they're doing though. Like the fan cables being sleeved with the tubing. That's pretty cool.
  5. A 140mm rad makes more sense than 120, yet there are 120s everywhere and 140s are extremely limited. And you can make them look plenty different. NZXT seems to be the only company that really cares to do something different though. All the others are just throwing some RGB behind their logos and calling it a day. I'd rather have something with just a plain, matte black pump cap than most of what's available, but everything has to be all glossy and gamer-y. Where? The only thing they seem to sell to the general public is their retention kits?
  6. NZXT makes the best looking ones, in my opinion, but I don't want to be stuck using their CAM software. I'm actually trying to get away from using it, but I currently need it to control the light strips in my case. But looking at other coolers, they're all ugly as sin. Aren't there any with just plain black pumps or something? Semi-related question... why doesn't anyone seem to make 140mm coolers? They're all either 120mm or dual/triple rads.
  7. Does it go away for a while if you gently push on the cooler? I've had my 3800x for almost a year and while playing Cyberpunk a couple weeks ago, I noticed an odd noise from my system. Sounded to me like a bearing on a fan was starting to die, but the oldest fan in my system is in the PSU, so it had me a little worried. Looking up some issues with Wraith Spire coolers, I heard some saying it's not a fan at all, but the retention bracket that makes the noise, and essentially unlocking the lever and re-attaching the cooler helps resolve the issue. I pushed on the cooler a b
  8. Sometimes steady framepacing is more important than a higher framerate if you want a game to run smoothly. Since you don't use a form of adaptive sync, then your framerate bouncing around under your monitor's refresh is going to cause your monitor to be out of sync with your framerate more often than not. This is what v-sync is supposed to cure, but it can cause input latency, which is why locking your framerate to something that your system can more consistently achieve can help to iron out stuttering. As a rule, it doesn't have to be 60fps. It could be 72 or something. So long as it's a
  9. Are you using g-sync, and have you tried limiting your framerate to 60fps with something like RivaTuner, or your GPU's control panel? I know cyberpunk also has a built-in frame limiter.
  10. I don't think you did or didn't do anything. You asked for help diagnosing the problem, and I'm requesting further information so I can try to help you do that. There's a known thing with Cyberpunk specifically that suggests it's only using physical cores on Ryzen CPUs and not logical cores. Some have said this causes some performance issues that can be fixed by editing the game's exe. YMMV, but it's easily reversed and won't hurt anything to try. https://overclock3d.net/reviews/software/cyberpunk_2077_ryzen_hex_edit_tested_-_boosted_amd_performance/1
  11. Those are really CPU-heavy games. Monitor what that is doing when they're stuttering. What framerates are you getting, by the way?
  12. You could be hyper-sensitive to the stutters. Don't compare yourself to other people who say they don't have them. There are people willing to play Cyberpunk on last-gen consoles and seem to think it's running just fine. Some people just don't notice poor performance. At any rate, monitor your components while playing. When the stutters are happening, what is happening in your system? Is your CPU maxing out? GPU? Unusual memory performance? Is your storage flatlining when it should be loading assets? Which games are stuttering?
  13. Nah, I don't want to strip it down to bare metal. I want to black out the backplate so it matches the rest of my build.| I just want to have all of my bases covered. If there's a better option than plastidip, I'd like to know about it.
  14. You try updating your driver? Also make sure you're not using any weirdo v-sync settings or framerate limiters.
  15. What exactly should I use in order to avoid changing thermal performance or color warping from heat? I have a Sapphire Pulse Vega 56. Love this card, but I've grown tired of the red accents on it when the rest of my components are black and have RGB LEDs. The only red accents I need to change are the red led behind the pulse logo which is easy enough to disconnect, and the red designs on the backplate. The backplate is super easy to remove and paint. Just want to make sure I'm not going to affect performance in any way whatsoever. I know most people use plastidip for this stuff becau