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About AperumDesign

  • Title

Profile Information

  • Location
    Sydney, Australia
  • Gender
  • Interests
    Product design, Architecture, PC building, Modding, Case-design, High-end audio
  • Occupation
    Architecture Student


  • CPU
    Intel Core i5 6600K
  • Motherboard
    Asus Maximus VIII Hero Alpha
  • RAM
    Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4 16Gb (4x4Gb) 2666Mhz
  • GPU
    EVGA GTX 1070 ACX 3.0 Black Edition
  • Case
    Phanteks Enthoo Evolv TG (Galaxy Silver)
  • Display(s)
    Samsung S34E790C 34" Ultrawide
  • Keyboard
    Custom 60% Keyboard
  • Mouse
    Func MS3 R2
  • Sound
    Yamaha HS8 Studio Monitors/Sennheiser HD600
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

897 profile views
  1. I randomly just found these while looking around Aliexpress. These are what I was saying you could make yourself, but it seems they already exist. I'd say this is the closest you'll get to what you're after. They're also made specifically for Corsair keyboards. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Front-Side-Printed-Backlit-Keycaps-Black-104-87-Keyset-Cherry-MX-Keycap-For-MX-Switches-87/32789273321.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.2.51da1fb1deY5Wp&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10152_10151_10065_10344_10068_10130_10342_10547_10343_10340_10548_10341_10696_10084_10083_10618_10307
  2. Depending on how you've mounted your LED strips, you could either add a modifier to the LED strips (whether that be a product as linked above, or cutting a strip of translucent opal acrylic and mounting it over your led strip somehow) or you could make a sort of light-box (have a look at some of these pictures of my build to get an idea). The former is probably much easier to achieve, but it depends what you're going for. Just keep in mind that adding a diffuser to your LED strips will dim them quite substantially, so just keep that in mind.
  3. I can't seem to find any white translucent top keycaps still with legends, but they could exist. If they didn't, the only way I could think of achieving this would be by purchasing side-printed black keycaps and manually sanding back the coating on the top of the keycap (this video would be useful if you decided to do this). Obviously this would only work if the caps were made from a transparent or translucent plastic in the first place, so you would have to make sure you were purchasing the right caps. Also, I may be wrong, but I believe Corsairs keyboards use a non-standard botto
  4. If you're looking for something well-built and unique, but not overly different, as W-L said, the Heatkiller tube series reservoirs from Watercool are amazing. I've built two systems with DDC 200 ones and they're still my go-to. But, in addition to the suggestions given above, If you're after something unique, you can look into: - Red Harbinger reservoirs (still a tube res) - Monsoon reservoirs (still a tube res) - A pre-built CNC-milled reservoir from a modder such as Radikult Customs (Eg. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Acrylic-Reservoir-Water-Tank-360mm-with-4-G1-4-fo
  5. My CPU/GPU were sitting at roughly 75-85 degrees since the fans were only just spinning. When I realised this was happening, I ramped my pump and fans up and the PETG was clearly slightly softened where the compression fittings had literally made the PETG shrink in radii inside the fittings, causing the first 90 degree bend of tubing to come out of the fitting. This does occur with PETG if the water temperature gets too high, although it will only happen if something unusual occurs like in my case. Just a consideration so that if you do use SpeedFan, keep the fans on Automatic in case you forg
  6. You can set this up very easily using SpeedFan by simply setting up a 'fan-curve' for the pump based on the temperature of your sensor. ONLY RELEVANT IF YOU'RE USING HARDLINE TUBING: The only consideration I would keep in mind, is if you are using hardline PETG, the hotter the temperature of your liquid, the greater the risk you have of your tubing softening, compressing and popping out of a fitting. It's happened to me before where failing to set my SpeedFan back to automatic from manual (fans were barely spinning under full load) meant that the liquid heated up and one of the tub
  7. Thanks for your reply. I'll update the BIOS and run some tests using stock cables, although I did check my cables and the pinout is correct. I would assume it must have something to do with the BIOS, because even on first boot the fans and pump were acting very strange. CPU warning temp was all set to 70. I uninstalled SpeedFan. At this stage I'd be happy for the motherboard to do its own thing and ignore SpeedFan entirely. I probably won't be able to get back to you for a few days however, since this is a system I built for someone and I won't be back with it for a few days.
  8. Hi all, I've recently just finished a new system and I'm having some issues with the fans which I can't seem to solve. Components in use: - Asus STRIX Z370-F Motherboard - 5x EK Vardar EVO 120ER 2200RPM PWM fans connected to a ModMyToys 8-way 4-Pin PWM PCB via custom-made 4pin extensions - Laing DDC-1T Plus PWM Pump (I know this isn't a watercooling thread, but a pump and fan function in the same way) Note: I made a custom cable to connect the ModMyToys PCB to a molex connector (to PSU via 12V and Ground) and the PWM in and RPM out to the CPU_FAN
  9. Different companies have varying tolerances on their tubing and fittings, so in some cases 16mm tubing of one company may not be entirely compatible with 16mm fittings of another company or visa versa. I haven't used Bitspower's brass tubing with EK's fittings, so I couldn't say for sure if it will be compatible, but it likely would be. It may be better to do a test first. I'm not sure if @W-L has used this combo together before, but it's not possible to know for sure if the 16mm OD brass tube will work with EK's HDC 16mm fittings unless you've had it in your hands. I've had a situation where
  10. UPDATE 02 (15/01/18) - Laser-cut Acrylic and Watercooling Components Sorry it's been a long wait for the second update to this build log. The project has been on hold up until roughly a week ago, but today the last of the components (namely the fittings) came in. The build is scheduled to be finished within the next week, so expect the remaining updates much more frequently. These are all of the acrylic pieces designed to cover up and 'simplify' the case by removing unused holes/grills etc. All dimensions were taken off the CM Mastercase Pro 6. All designing
  11. If you were dead-set on using the EK res, your only option is really to outsource the job to a local plastics place. Primochill's CTR Phase II range allows you to adjust the length of your res much easier since it works on compression using orings, instead of threading into the end cap. So you can simply buy a tube and cut it to length, then re-insert it into the caps. They also have a pump combo.
  12. As long as the fittings and blocks use G1/4 thread, which 99% of fittings do and all waterblocks do, you can use whatever fitting and waterblock you want. All primochill fittings will screw into all of EK's blocks. 1/2" tubing is referring to a totally different parameter than the 1/4" threading on EK's blocks. You need fittings that have G1/4" threading (ie all fittings Primochill sell), and a barb/barb compression/hardline compression fitting (depending on whether you're using soft or hard tubing) that will connect to your 1/2" tubing. Feel free to take a look at my fittings guide in my sig
  13. Perhaps not fault, but yes, he may be able to form conclusions regarding the sound signature that he otherwise wouldn't be able to. I never said that he may not like those characteristics of the HD6XXs, they're just my observations from using the HD650s. I can't however think of many people who prefer their low-end to be rolled off. It's my assumption that the OP isn't an audiophile and doesn't have the experience with headphones to be able to make such an informed decision about the exact sound signature he is looking for. Perhaps it would be a good idea to ask the OP what kind of
  14. The issue of lighter than average bass can be overcome with a simple EQ like Realtek. The headphones I find do have the low end there, it's quiet and tends to be lost out the back of the headphones. I wouldn't call the base "super light" though. It's just lighter relative to the overly bass-heavy headphones that most companies churn out. The HD600s are considered pretty well the best monitoring headphones ever made because of their super flat response curve, and the 6XX's do have a decent bit more in terms of low end. Agreed on the DT770s and MSR7 alternatives. Also great headphone
  15. I don't agree with that at all to be honest. The low end on closed-back headphones I find tends to be much worse as bass is able to reflect off the back of the can. They're incredibly clean throughout the whole spectrum in my opinion. You'll notice you hear a lot of detail in music that you hadn't heard before because of this. The HD6XXs aren't designed to have super loud low-end, but it's very good low-end. My HD600's have a very clean low end. They're a little more natural than the 650s (same as 6XXs) which are a bit stronger in the low end and warmer in general I found. You could say at aro