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Chickenbread

Member
  • Content Count

    34
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

About Chickenbread

  • Title
    Member

Contact Methods

  • Twitch.tv
    https://www.twitch.tv/cbstream

Profile Information

  • Location
    Germany
  • Gender
    Male
  • Occupation
    Programmer

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7 8700K
  • Motherboard
    Asus Z370-F Gaming
  • RAM
    32GB G.Skill Trident Z RGB
  • GPU
    Asus GTX 1080Ti Strix
  • Case
    Phanteks P400S TGE
  • Storage
    1x 250GB Samsung 960 Evo, 1x 500GB Samsung 850 Evo, 1x 4TB WD Black
  • PSU
    650W EVGA B3
  • Display(s)
    1x Dell S2417DG, 1x Dell U2515H
  • Cooling
    NZXT Kraken X62 v2
  • Keyboard
    Cooler Master MK750
  • Mouse
    Logitech G403 Wireless
  • Sound
    Sennheiser Game One Headset w/ Sennheiser GSX 1000
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro
  • PCPartPicker URL

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  1. So basically you're trying to make your own TP-Cast or Vive Wireless Adapter. Am I getting this right? From my understanding of how the HDMI protocol works, there really isn't a way of doing so on a HW level unless the transmission happens seamless. But good luck on getting a wireless solution that can transmit the Full HDMI 1.4 bandwidth. On a Software side, you could write up something like the TP-Cast companion software to trick Oculus into thinking a headset is connected, whereas in fact it's just a virtual Video device. The software could then take up the image, compress it and stream i
  2. Thanks for the replys. I've once read something that some types of insulation get eaten away by carbonation. That's why I asked
  3. Well, the title pretty much describes my question. I recently got my LTT water bottle, but I was wondering if it is safe to store carbonated beverages like water in it. I'm not looking for an answer whether it keeps the carbonation, just whether or not it is safe to store it in the bottle
  4. Thanks for the hint. I probably wouldn't have known, that there are fans out there, that require the 4-pin connection. While Noctua fans usually work with a 3-pin DC signal, it's better to run them with a PWM signal, because they're using a semi-magnetic bearing system (https://noctua.at/en/sso2-bearing) I digged around a bit more, and found another PWM Fan Hub, which copies a 4-pin signal from the motherboard: https://www.aerocool.com.tw/en/project7/controller-p7/p7-h1 This one however is an RGB-Contoller first and a fan controller second and still uses Molex for some inexplica
  5. Don't I have the same control as with a 4-Pin header, since it's being converted and not just cut off?
  6. What about this one: http://www.phanteks.com/PH-PWHUB.html It's like the only one i could find at a german retailer...
  7. So, I recently replaced the kinda loud NZXT Fans on my Kraken X62 with more silent Noctua Fans. The Fans however only start spinning after I open CAM and CAM detects the Cooler. And this piece of crap software only detects the cooler half the time and when it detects my cooler it completly resets all the settings (lighting and fan-curves). Any suggestions, other than "plug your fans into the motherboard", because I don't think my motherboard has enougth fan-headers and if it does, they are all other the place.
  8. So for thoese wondering, this is the graph at the end of a 20 minute stress test: What confuses me is, that the temperature is constantly ping-ponging between ~75°C and up to 90°C. Isn't an AIO supposed to slowly ramp up in temperature, until everything settled in and then kinda stay at that temperature?
  9. When I build the PC in March I was like: "That seems high, but oh well, it's a more powerful processor, surely it's because of that". ... Yeah... I'm that naive...
  10. I got a hint on PC Part Picker, that there might be an issue with my Cooling. So I'm asking if anyone can confirm that these temperatures are too high or normal: CPU: i7 8700K @ 4.8GHz AIO: NZXT X62 v2 ~25°C ambient ~40-50°C idle ~80-85°C load I should also mention, that as soon as I apply a load, the temperature instantly rises to ~80°C but it stays there and it's not rising, just fluctuating.
  11. So I updated the BIOS yesterday, and it seemed to boot fine. I also had the chance today to borrow and old FullHD DVI Monitor from a friend and even after disconnecting power it booted without problems (1x QHD via HDMI, 1x FullHD via DVI) however with 2 QHD monitors connected via DP it froze at the POST screen (at least an improvement over no screen) one reboot later and it booted fine with both DP monitors connected. I honestly don't know whats going on anymore...
  12. Already set the BIOS to boot on the GPU and additionally enabled the multi-monitor support for the iGPU
  13. I already posted here about booting issues with a different motherboard. I decided to RMA that board and get an Asus ROG Strix Z370-F Gaming. I still have booting issues, even with the new motherboard. However they are not the same issues I had with the Gigabyte motherboard. Instead of the system doing bootloops, the Asus motherboard decides to stay at GPU initialization, if more than 1 Monitor is plugged into the GPU. (I only have tested DP, since I'm short on HDMI ports on my monitors) However, the system boots just fine with only 1 monitor connected, and continues to run with
  14. Well technically I never unplug my PC as well. I have plugged it in a multiplug, that I can turn off. And that's how I disconnect my PC from the wall every night.
  15. Well I'm going to RMA that board and hopefully get my money back. CMOS issues doesn't sound nice on a board that is barely 2 weeks old. The battery was fine and inserted the right way. I also never flashed the BIOS, since it already came with rev F6 (there's also F7b but afaik the b stands for beta) It also has the hot VRMs which I didn't know before buying it. I like to completely disconnect my PC, since electronics always draw a little bit of energy all the time and you can actually save quite a bit on the power bill this way. I know that efficiency has improved
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