Take a look at the Sennheiser HD 599 (or HD 599SE).
They are overall a pretty good choice for gaming and media imo. Switched to those a while back from some mid-range 7.1 Logitech headset and like them a lot better.
Haven't played competitive FPS games in some time but I can make out footsteps or other directional sounds pretty good in other games (I mainly play Insurgency Sandstorm).
Like the ATH-AD700Xs you looked at those are also open back. Which means they don't isolate outside noise.
I'm going to give you the benefit of the doubt in providing an article the has bias towards workstation loads as evidenced by threadrippers position near the top, and the fact that you're completely ignoring overclocking.
However, in my attempts to prove that you are a fool, I discovered that indeed things are not as cut and dry as I had assumed, and in some cases AMD provides better price to performance value over Intel, although they seem unable to dethrone Intel from the top of CPU performance as of right now. Let me share with you what I have found.
Unfortunately I don't have much time to compile more as I have a bunch of stuff I am working on at the moment but rest assured I have seen the error of my ways. Its looking more like the question of Intel vs AMD is very complicated and making general statements is not the right course of action.
AMD is right up there with intel in price per performance for lower end CPU's (like the one I use) but simply has no answer for higher end CPU's, and the 9600k stands out as exceptional price to performance beating out even the 3900x at around half the price. AMD also has no real answer to the 9700k/9900k at the high end as well.
I stand corrected, again. I will edit my posts to reflect this.
If you feel you want to change your CPU, you can but don't need to in order to move up in resolution. Resolution is far more dependent on the GPU.
A 2080/2080s would be fine for 1440p. I doubt you're going to hit 144fps all the time even with a beast card in high graphic games. You'll easily hit that in a game like csgo, but not a game like GTA V.
I'd suggest changing motherboard if you change CPU because X370 is okay, and an X570 board is just built to handle Zen 2 if you pick it up.
Sorry for necro posting but I'm going to be building a system with the same cooler (Le Grand Macho RT) and the same chassis (Meshify C) and I wanted to know if I can still fit the 2 fans on the top side?
As a person older than Linus, there're three things that get on your nerves the longer you're around: slow computers, fan noise, and that damned bright RGB radiation. Now that I have kids too, all I want is some god-d***ed peace and quiet.
So when I decided to build a new work/play rig I decided that focusing on performance and noise would come first, LEDS can be fixed with a wire cutter or a hammer. I put together a Ryzen 1600 build pretty cheaply using the stock cooler and an old aluminum Thermaltake Tsunami case, but the noise was terrible. The Aluminum case reverbed all the noise, the fan on the stock Ryzen cooler clicked at certain speeds, and it ran hot. It was time to go to war.
After endless comparisons of air vs water, how silence vs mesh cooling perf, I ended up deciding on the Fractal Design Meshify C case and the Thermalright Le Grande Macho RT air cooler. I wanted to see if you could have a mesh case, good cooling, AND almost no noise.
AMD Ryzen 1600 at Stock & 3.6 Ghz Overclock speeds
Asus PRIME X370-PRO Motherboard
EVGA SuperSC 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory @ 2933 speed
Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD
MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card
SeaSonic PRIME Titanium 750W PSU
Noctua NT-H1 Thermal Paste
Measurements & Methodology
We will be measuring Noise and Temperature readings for each setup iteration. To generate as much load and heat as possible, IntelBurnTest (IBT) and Furmark (FM) will be run at the same time. IBT will run a Standard Stress Test utilizing all cores/threads, and FM will run the “GPU stress test” at 1920x1080.
Noise will be measured using the Niosh Sound Level Meter App for iPhone, which is a free calibrated app for collecting A-weighted noise measurements. It will be measured while idle, and at the end of the testing cycle at two locations:
15cm diagonal to the front/left corner of the case to simulate the PC on the desk
1 meter diagonal to the front/left/top vertex corner of the case, which tends to be where my head is while sitting in a chair with the case on the floor under the desk.
The environment will be as controlled as possible, with HVAC, refrigerators, and other noise generating sources turned off. Tests are run during quiet times, which resulted in an approximately 22dB background noise level.
Temperature readings will be collected using HWiNFO, and logged to CSV for analysis.
The environment will be as controlled as possible, with HVAC keeping the room steady at 22C, and only shutoff at the beginning and end of tests to measure noise levels.
We will be testing the following setup iterations:
Old Thermaltake Tsunami Dream case + Stock AMD Wraith Spire cooler
Fractal Design Meshify C case + Stock AMD Wraith Spire cooler
Fractal Design Meshify C case + Thermalright Le Grande Macho RT cooler
Fan setup iterations on #3
Fractal Design Meshify C Review
Since we’ve all seen 10 unboxing videos with slow panning 4k b-roll, techno music, and small plastic potted plants, I’ll skip to my thoughts from the build:
Love the design
Front panel has a nice “low-poly” design, should help hide dents / damage over time
Rim of front panel reminds me of a jet engine intake cowl, brings images of airflow
Tempered Glass and good airflow for $89
Has decent supplied fans
Case feels solid for how light it is
The power LED is subtle, very nice for us anti-rgb crowd
Stripped out two motherboard mounts while installing them with not much force.
Tight fit with my longer 175mm PSU, can’t see using HDD cage with this size PSU, especially with my meaty mitts.
Could not find a nice way to route the USB 3.0 cable for the front panel. It’s nearly too big to fit through the middle shroud hole, and then has to take a 90° turn to hit the motherboard header. This also resulted in a strained diagonal cable across the back of the case, so I went through the large grommeted holes to the right of the motherboard.
Leaks sound like a screen door (who knew?). You will hear your crappy CPU cooler fans and coil whine from your motherboard or graphics board. Since it’s mesh on top, front, and back, the noise might bounce off more surfaces in your room, and into your ear.
Design Improvement Suggestions
Would have been nice to get a solid Moduvent for the top if you don’t need the extra mesh / venting.
Would have been nice to have some soundproofing on the metal side panel.
Would have been nice to have a 140mm fan support on the back instead of 120mm
USB3.0 front panel cable needs to be longer to use with the supplied shroud hole.
A more flexible connector for the end of the USB3.0 front panel cable would be nice for tight turns.
A shroud hole for GPU power would be nice too.
Front and backmost shroud holes could be bigger / have rubber grommets.
Front IO could have been on separate panel so it’s not attached to the removable door - would make the mesh easier to clean
It’s 2017, have a USB type C connector! Maybe if Fractal Josh stopped going on yacht trips to the flippin’ Catalina Wine Mixer they could have afforded this.
If you don’t need the hard drive cage, remove it before doing anything else. Can’t remove with PSU in.
If you are putting this on carpet, face the PSU fan UP.
Figure out routing the front panel cables before doing any other cabling, especially the USB cable.
Thermalright Le Grande Macho RT Review
I looked this up in an online translator, and apparently the name means “the great chauvinistic pig”, hopefully it’s a pig for CPU heat and it doesn’t offend any of the lady folk.
Why This Cooler
Finding this cooler was a trip, I originally wanted something cool and quiet of course, and was leaning towards an AIO kit because I postulated in my head that it would be more resilient to a child tipping my case over. A 1KG air cooler would have a hell of a lot more torque / pressure on the motherboard than a liquid cooling block would if it fell over.
So I was looking for an all-copper 240mm solution, and first settled on Be Quiet!’s Silent Loop cooler, but I couldn’t find it for under $200 or so dollars, and that’s because it had to be imported by a third party. I contacted their support, and found out they can’t sell it here in North America because of patent issues, which was interesting. I looked at some other AIO solutions, reviews, etc and couldn’t fall in love with another solution. Also some of the pumps noise recordings in the reviews reminded me of a fish tank aerator pump, which also turned me off of liquid cooling.
Looking at air coolers again, I was going to go with the shiny khakis & poo colored Noctua DH-15 or a Be Quiet Dark Rock 3, but then I found this guy on a TechPowerUp review, and it came in both cooler, quieter, and cheaper than the other two. So of course, I needed to review it.
Love the design, all you see is the anodized black plate and heatpipes. It hides everything else around your CPU socket.
Cheaper than similar Noctua offerings.
Comes with the Thermalright TY-147a, a PWM fan that apparently doesn’t suck at low speeds. No ticking like the Wraith Spire fan!
Comes with small skin-saving gloves, and a very nice long screwdriver, and a low speed adapter.
Base plate is nickel-plated copper, with a nice polished finish.
Assembly was a breeze.
Hides messy fan cables with no effort!
May not fit your motherboard / memory / case.
Want to change the rear case fan whose header is under this thing? Say hello to removing your graphics card, and using offset pliers.
Be careful when clipping the fan on. I was sloppy and dragged the anti-vibration pads off of the fins - had to start over.
I wish it was sold more places, I bought mine off of the only approved US reseller on Amazon.
Would be great to see a version with a larger baseplate for TR4 applications.
Do a dry fit with your memory before fitting the fan in place. Mine cleared it, but I ended up unclipping/reclipping it lower to get more air over the VRMs.
Test Results and Thoughts
And the scientific results are in…
With every iteration we were able to reduce the noise, temperature, or both. Focusing on the 3.6Ghz tests, noise at the floor level was reduced 9.5dB, max CPU temperatures reduced 21.6C, and max GPU temps reduced 5C.
Using my subjective ears, I like the final fan setup the most as well. Using all Noctua fans for the case changes the tone and feel of the fan noise to be mostly unobtrusive. At head level and full load I get readings of 22.3 dB, which is barely above background noise. It amounts to “is there a fan on, somewhere upstairs?”. The fridge in the next room is louder than it, the HVAC blower is louder than it, the dehumidifier in the basement is louder than it. It is essentially silent in this environment.
The only downside to something this quiet is that up close you do hear coil whine and other electronics noise, especially when FurMark is thrashing the graphics card.
The Fractal Design Meshify C is cooler and quieter than a 12 year old Thermaltake Tsunami Dream.
The Le Grand Macho RT cooler is cooler and quieter than an AMD Wraith Spire cooler.
Noctua fans may be ugly, but this 3 fan setup is cooler and quieter than the stock Fractal Design fans.
If I were to do these tests again, I hope to keep a better notebook as I forgot to take a few readings here and there. I would also give the system time to cool between runs, as the idle temps were skewed because of a quick test cycle. I also hope to purchase a better noise level meter if I get into noise testing.
As for what I did with the damned RGB, I ended up adding a UV strip, and doing a little infilling of the Fractal Design logo with UV/Neon paint. This gave it a nice ghostly ultra-violet iradescence, and all you can see while the system is running are the creeping fans and shiny heat pipes everywhere. It can't be fully captured with a camera, but here's the best pictures I have.
The banana weighs 207g and is approximately 175cm along the chord of it's curve (or 7.3oz and ~7in in freedom units). I would need a much large sample size to verify it's place on the distrubution of banana sizes curve, but some fact checking to MyFitnessPal's database shows it to be on the smaller end of the "Large" size.
I would also weight it without the skin, but we had a lab accident, and a child has since eaten it.
I think you pretty much said it; a Define R5 would fit the bill. I have a thick 240 rad in the front and a slim 240 up top with the 5.25" drive bays, 3x 3.5" drive bay rack, and a full custom loop. You do lose a bit of sound dampening if you put a rad up top though. You can fit a 280 in the front with the ODD cages in too.