Dagnis

Gotcha. It's looking like 2800 isnt really sold anymore anyways. So I might just go for a fresh 32gigs at 3200.

I currently have 16 gigs (2x8) in my pc. I was thinking about adding another 16 but the original ram I bought is no longer sold on newegg. I know it's important to get similar ram, so my main question is what numbers do I need to make sure I match? I figure the speed (in this case 2800) should be the same, but how important are the timings and CAS Latency? Will having different ram affect using the built in OC profile?

Reallocation event count is 100 for each, threshold 3. The drive is it's own full drive. It's a kingston SV300S37A240G according crystal disk (been a while since I put it in)

First time ever using this so I hope I provide all the info you want.. for my C drive it says Good, 100%. Some other stats that seem interesting: Raw Read Error Rate Current, 95, worst, 95, threshold 50. Retired Block Count, Current 100, worst 100, threshold, 3 Reported Uncorrectable Errors, Current 100, worst 100, threshold 0 SSD Life Left Current 100, Worst 100, threshold 10. Power on Hours, 23426. Power on count 2435. I went to function and did rescan to get these. Is there anything in particular I should be looking for?

Small update of my attempts to fix it. I ran a windows memory diagnostics. Came back clean. Just did a 'sfc /scannow' in cmd line. It said it found corrupt files and successfully repaired them. Why didn't chkdsk find these?

I did this for the C drive and it seemed to work for a little bit. I was able to game no problem. Then suddenly today I got three crashes back to back and it sent my computer into recovery mode or whatever on start up. Each time I got different error codes. The second two crashes happened nearly right away after boot up. I went straight to event log to try to find out what happened, and in the process it crashed. Not sure if that was the blame since I did it right after boot. The bugchecks in order of crashes are (for some reason I can only find 2 for today): 0x0000001e (0x

This started around the time I had to update my computer to play MCC (for some reason it wouldn't let you pick up weapons unless you had up to a certain W10 update). I checked my last crash in the event log and I got the following: The bugcheck was: 0x0000004e (0x000000000000008d, 0x00000000003ff382, 0x0000000000410001, 0xffffbb87d3908f60). I believe that the 04e and 8d points me to a hardware issue, but I don't know what the other numbers mean. Trying to find out exactly what the cause is and how I can fix it (assuming it is hardware and w10 isn't being stupid because of updates).

It's just some random one from Best Buy for the UPS. I use a bequiet dark pro 11 for the PSU. I think I'll just get this on my way home tomorrow and I should be ok I believe. https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1510632692&sr=1-5&keywords=UPS&dpID=41ZpxIiuVVL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch&th=1 Only from Best Buy on price matching.

Ok. What Wattage would you recommend? Should I just go all the way and find something that goes over 650W?

I'm not 100% sure. Looking at the bottom I have two outputs. The one that seems most relavent says 120V~ 5.42A, 50/60Hz 650VA/375W. Which makes me think it's not enough.

So I started playing Battlefront 2 (and this did happen for a brief moment in Mad Max as well) and my UPS started making it's "I've got no power" screaming sound I'm sure many of you are familiar with. I've got a 1080ti and a 8700k @ 4.8ghz for my build, with a 650w PSU. Only the tower and one monitor is plugged into the battery side of the UPS, with a monitor a speakers plugged into the other side. Here's some of the facts of when it happens, and what I know about the UPS. It happens right when the EA logo starts up on the game, which is when I think it's loading the most intensel

Working on my overclock for my new 8700k and I'm not sure which to pay attention to. The cores have an average of low 70s while the package has an average of 81. This is via hwinfo during an Aida 64 test.

I know how P95 will cause much higher temps then normal, but what about Aida? How much higher temp wise is it compared to a normal gaming session? (Keeping in mind I'll be using a rog strix 1080ti (non blower) and an air cpu cooler)

I've no reason to use P95 for anything but stress testing, so I can't see myself as a normal user. Good to know I should just stick with Aida then. Having not used Aida, how should I test using it?

I keep reading that Prime 95 causes extra heat and other issues depending on the version, but can't find anything on the actual version or any solid advice either way. I also hear that Aida 64 stresses the cpu in a "different way" and it may not be enough, but cases less heat. I'll be overclocking my 8700k with a Gigabyte Gaming 5 and NH-D15 if it makes a difference. What is the best way I should go about testing a 5ghz OC?