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Everything posted by dhannemon13

  1. Good to know. Country's normal nominal voltage here is 220V 50 Hz, and I put all of my electronics behind a stabilizer to make sure they don't drop too deep. Is it enough to... At least to prevent any further damage before I realize any of the drops (could've noticeable from the sound of the stabilizer) it and turn off the pc? Well, I'd totally get the U9 if I know about it, and unfortunately I think it's a lot better choice than Corsair VS/CV, CM Elite, or else. (no CX-non modular anymore unfortunately, only the modular ones and it's too darn expensive), and still good
  2. Honestly haven't found much of the review of the 9, Tom's Hardware only got the U9. Lemme know, in a nutshell, the difference is? Owned the 500W 9 instead of the U9 here (looked onto the PSU Tier List, at least it's fairly enough on C tier for my budget system), welp, it's kind of cheaper (budget constraints, the difference of the price can cost me one stick of 4 GB of RAM) on the marketplace but nyeh at least it's a lotta quality (even convinced my father that's the "kind-of-Makita" of tools lol) and heavier than the PSU that comes with the old PC. Fyi the spec's on my
  3. I'm just curious. On my marketplace here, sometimes here got mixed up with both System Power 9 and U9. What's the difference between two of them? One of them is better than the other one, or what? Or just different naming? Thanks in advance.
  4. Well, it's actually exactly as @Biohazard777 said, for firsthand I even thought about getting a TP-Link MR3420, but.. On the same price at $14, I can get the STB box with much more RAM (32 MB vs 1 GB) and ROM (4 MB vs 8 GB), and definitely way more processing power. Specs for the TP-Link router: https://openwrt.org/toh/tp-link/tl-mr3420https://openwrt.org/toh/tp-link/tl-mr3420 Specs for the STB I just bought (ZTE B860H): Custom build OpenWRT specifically for those STB are available. The OpenWRT aren't running on the ROM tho, it runs on a microSD card.
  5. Well, good to know if it would still works fine. And seeing the bitrates of the movies itself.. Nvm even going gigabit, smaller than I thought lol In fairness, getting 32 Mbps, 40 ping, or little bit more, with 0.07 USD per GB data plan (well, still not as efficient as fiber as we can't totally freely to stream, but back again to financial status), is still totally enough for me (and I'm not complaining actually), actually considering it fast enough for my use. Totally a lot better than a decade ago that I had to leave my laptop for 5 days just for a 7 GB download. Ah, th
  6. Before you guys even think "why tf such stupid question is even here", yes, I'm very well, and fully, and totally, aware of that (theoretically) 12.5 MB/s is a total bottleneck for even a decent local server use. Yet, I'm curious of the experience if you guys ever had something like so, because I happen to plan to do one (existing parts already, got the 8-port switch, that's why), NAS using an old laptop and an old HDD with enough movies for a family, but I really want to know how worse it is to use it. And for the sake of sanity, no "get a gigabit". I'd get a gigabit s
  7. *laughs in my aunt's 300 Mbps ISP puny GPON router (HG8245 I think) that serves 10 devices at one. Surely as hell you can't even load Google at all while 4 of them happily streams YouTube. Hell, a decade ago and all I have is 240p YouTube, 802.11g wireless router (still have it, and actually still alive) and buffers like shit, even have to let my laptop work for 5 days straight without turned it off for a 7 GB download. Now I complain too much when Steam download's below 2 MB/s (the peak's 4 MB/s here using cellular and tethering). I complain too much ei
  8. Seems it does have it, it saves the last settings I put on it while using it on the PC that don't have the software. It doesn't. That's why it's weird.
  9. In a nutshell, got a budget-mech keyboard of VortexSeries VX7 Pro. The LED kept getting turned off after my PC turn-off or restart, and I have to set the lights on over and over again on the software every I boot it up. Screenshot below, I tagged the settings that I have to tick every time I boot. Software bug, BIOS settings, or what? It's weird as I have no issue like this on another laptop/PC, and I don't have to do that on the other ones, just here on my daily driver. Thanks in advance.
  10. I have no server unfortunately. But curious here, how's the difference?
  11. Yep, that's why I did this just for experiment and won't really implement it for 24/7 use: I'd blow the bills straight up lol And unfortunately unstable either, keeps getting bricked every (hard) reset, so no matter how I have to use other solution either.
  12. In fact I'm still considering of which one that I should choose. Is TP-Link MR3420 good enough? What really matters the latency doesn't too suck on the online games, yet good enough for standard use at home. I'm actually fine of just having one ethernet port as most of the network would be wireless either. Actually got a spare unmanaged 100 Mbps switch here (could buy a gigabit if needed to, especially if I'm going for a NAS) if I really have to go. But yeah getting the router's seems the good way.
  13. Yeah, it's a total burnout of the bills, actually have an old laptop here with dual core 1.6 GHz and 3 GB RAM, but unfortunately it just reboot constantly on the same custom OpenWRT (albeit, 64-bit version) I put and so can't really use it despite of what I tried most. It didn't detect the LAN either, so it's a loss unfortunately. Probably would just get an Android setup box for cheap or Raspberry later on.
  14. Just a little update after stumbling for hours. Yes, it does work, and I'm typing this while connected to the 'brand-new' router here. Although did struggle on how the f I can install the additional thingies for USB tethering while I don't even have internet from ethernet, this custom OpenWRT firmware saved my ass from it. https://www.helmiau.com/blog/helmiwrt-os And here we go, below.
  15. Couldn't agreed more, dang Warcraft 3 runs barely good on this one system. We actually have a Pentium Dual Core E2160 system here, but dad gonna use it for his PC, so no way I'm gonna use it. Had a Prescott Pentium 4 3 GHz with hyper-threading either but can't find the CPU anywhere. And, no, I don't think I'll get a new system. It's just for experimental purposes.
  16. Damn, that's tedious to build it from the sauce. Probably any alternative software like pfSense? Well, yeah. Beats gettin' a new router while I can experiment on it tho hahah
  17. Stumbled myself onto a one kind-of-ancient system with Willamette-era Pentium 4 1.8 GHz single core, ECS L4S5MG3 motherboard, 256 MB of RAM, and 40 GB of HDD. Well, I wanna try OpenWRT for it, probably will run it as the home router with a TP-Link router connected to it as access point, just for little Squid-based caching proxy (to, at least try, conserve some data plan if it works) or even Steam-cache as their download's just so darn big, and USB tethering over it. Or, if there's anything than OpenWRT that supports of what above, please let me know. Well
  18. " *model of your phone* magisk root " instead while you're searching for it. You can browse around https://www.xda-developers.com for more deeper Android customization. It'd be more complicated than those one click root, but surely its the one that reliably works fine. What's your phone?
  19. SuperSU or Magisk. Lots of tutorial at YouTube or Google.
  20. The CPU saved itself from quick-death. And as @Skiiwee29said. Check if it's actually running, RMA if it died.
  21. I don't think increasing the power to the CPU higher than usual is a good idea. It could end with your motherboard died, VRM toasted, and *poof* the power brick. Take the advice from someone recently lost his laptop because of an experiment: don't, just don't.
  22. Just get standard Cat 5e or Cat 6 cable if you only wanna use it for close-range like that 1 meter.
  23. Check your task manager and sort the process, check which one is constantly using the CPU resource. Below, sorted by highest usage of mine when browsing and typing this. It should be as low as 5-25% when idling. Tbh I dunno about this, but my Xeon E3-1225 v2 do idle at 38-40-ish (well the Hyper T20 run at 2000 RPM constantly lol), brother's 1500X the same, ambient 28-30 degrees. Below is my temps while typing this. Max temp is on 66 degree when I stress-test it using Prime95.
  24. Might be damaging the component but you couldn't see it, need to use multimeter to properly check it, but definitely waste of lots of time and it's way too risky to reuse it after a damage like that. .. I dunno but I think you already did of what you could do to that mobo. By me, that short already killed the board. I'd check the PSU either if it's fine either or not.