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katoptrys

Member
  • Content Count

    217
  • Joined

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About katoptrys

  • Title
    Member
  • Birthday May 20, 1999

Contact Methods

  • Discord
    katoptrys#6140
  • Steam
    Katoptrys
  • Origin
    Katoptrys

Profile Information

  • Location
    Buenos aires, Argentina
  • Gender
    Male
  • Occupation
    Bartender

System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 1600
  • Motherboard
    MSI B350M Mortar Arctic
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance 3200Mhz 1x8GB
  • GPU
    Asus GTX 1060 3GB DUAL OC
  • Case
    Corsair 400C
  • Storage
    Some old HDD
  • PSU
    EVGA 650 GQ
  • Display(s)
    LG 24MP59G-P
  • Cooling
    Corsair H60
  • Keyboard
    Razer Blackwidow TE Chroma
  • Mouse
    Razer Deathadder Chroma
  • Sound
    Bose Soundlink Mini 2
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

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  1. I solved it. It boots up now. There had been thermal paste remains on some CPU pins from the removal I think
  2. All power connectors are properly seated. Could it be damage to the motherboard?
  3. So I was changing my CPU's thermal paste, because I was having pretty bad temps and I figured I had applied it wrong. When I went to remove the heatskink, it came off with the CPU attached. I made sure there were no broken or bent pins, cleaned everything with alcohol and put the CPU back on with new thermal paste. Except now the computer won't turn back on at all. No fan spin or LEDs. Nothing The computer was completely disconnected from power at the time of the removal, it had the PSU both off and without a cable to the wall
  4. Well, first of all, have you upgraded the BIOS at all? Memory compatibility tends to be more stable on the latest revisions. Also, did you tune the voltage on the RAM so it might help stability? I haven't had luck running it on auto myself. Another thing, if you OCed the CPU core clock instead of the multiplier, that might cause memory instability as well
  5. If you have the spare lanes in your rig I'd go for a PCIE or M.2 wi-fi adapter, they are generally rather small and easy to install. USB tends to be less reliable, I have a spare USB wi-fi dongle I use only when I have to because they get, at least in my experience, WEIRD signal drops even within 3 meters of the access point, and they aren't quite as fast. Plus, it depends on the person but USB ports might be much more at a premium than PCIE ports in your motherboard
  6. Well, first of all, have you done any overclocking on it? If you haven't, I'd recommend checking a guide on undervolting your CPU to improve temperatures. There should also be a following improvement on your GPU's temps as the CPU's temperature lowers. Also unless you're going for SUPER silent, I'd say try to ramp up the fan speeds a little more and it should improve your temperatures quite a bit. CPU and case fan speeds are adjusted through the BIOS, at least as far as I know, GPU fan speed can be tweaked through MSI Afterburner
  7. Newer NVME SSDs have a THEORETICAL speed improvement. Unless you're doing stuff like writing constantly to it or moving heavy project files like in video editing, casual tasks like gaming, everyday applications like browsing the internet, or even opening windows will see a MINIMAL improvement. Unless it is for a professional task, it's not worth it. Also, SSDs can last longer than 10 years depending on how heavily you are writing to them
  8. Hm. I would not personally trust a motherboard to be able to push anything north of 100-ish ohm, let lone 250 or even 600. As much as they may advertise, there is a LOT of noise inside your computer and I'd go as far as to say I can hear a difference with my 50 ohm HD598. You will NOT get a clear sound signal. You might struggle to drive them. I'd say a DAC is not necessary unless you want a boost to sound quality, but I'd find a decent AMP for those cans. If you want something lasting and good quality, I'd go with a Schiit Magni, it's about 100 bucks and generally great unless you're workin
  9. Well, the H60 is only a 120mm so there is only so much it can cool. Depending on how much you OC/undervolt your CPU you might be able to squeeze better temps out of it. I had the same AIO until the pump crapped out on me a couple of weeks ago, but usually under an intense load I'd get 70C at 3.9 GHz (I had my voltage set up at 1.45). As far as air coolers go, I'd recommend a Dark Rock 4 from bequiet, it's about 160mm IIRC but performance should be great and they are, as the name of the brand states, very quiet.
  10. After re-plugging everything one by one three times it turned on. Solution: ask Corsair to make less shitty power switch connectors
  11. I was trying to figure out if my AIO's pump had died earlier (I thought it died a couple of months ago, replaced back with the stock fan, and tonight decided to try my luck). I heard it running while plugged into a random system fan, checked HWmonitor to make sure, and as it was decided I'd use it. I changed the cooler, plugged everything in, but pressing the power button on the PC won't do anything. There is no fan spin and no LEDs light up on the motherboard. I've checked the PSU is on, the cables have all been re-seated just to be sure, and the CPU has no bent pins. I may have tightene
  12. 32 GB of RAM feels kind of unneccessary, IMO. Unless you need it for some other task, you should be fine with 16GB and use the money for a better cooling solution
  13. Oh, definitely. I don't say he should go 3000+, I mean going from 2133 to 2666, last time I checked, the difference was under 25 dollars. 2666 is a good bargain sweet spot, I'd think
  14. The only thing I'd consider changing is the memory. Ryzen gets a boost, even if small, with faster memory, and the price difference between 2133 and 2666 isn't very big. Also, unless you plan on buying a second stick in the future, Dual Channel gives you a noticeable performance improvement, so if you are going with 16gb, go with 2x8
  15. The HD6XX are 300 Ohm Headphones. You're VERY likely going to need an amp for them
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