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About saras

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  1. Long story short, got a laptop with a single 8gig stick of ram soldered in and one free bay. No discrete GPU, just an HD620. Now I want both more ram and slightly more speed, which going dual channel vs single is probably going to do. Now then, the question is this, for dual channel to work, does the ram distribution have to be symmetric? Do I need to match an 8 gig stick to the soldered in 8 gig stick to get the full HD620 speed? I have now ordered a 16 gig stick that'll total my system to 24 gigs. My question is, does this basically permanently reduce the speed of the
  2. It would be, but the MSI b350m pro-vd+ is on a clearance sale at my shop. An equivalent 2x4 set costs 10€ more than a single 8 stick. Going with pro 4 leaves me with 4 ram slots, but that's also another 20€. If I'm going to be getting more ram anyway (as 8 isn't really enough for me), it seems to me like a bit of a waste to spend an extra 40€ to end up with relatively speaking the exact same thing if the only thing I gain in exchange for it is not having to use single channel memory for two or so weeks.
  3. The AB350 Pro4 matx one is an extra 20€, I don't really need to pinch every penny, but is it better by enough to need the 20? Mobos don't seem to matter much beyond ports and aesthetics I already asked about that, the shop I'll be getting the parts from will upgrade it to the newest one before delivering the stuff to me.
  4. Will be doing a build over several paychecks. I just want something up and running I can do work on now, utterly done with doing it on a laptop and that just overheating and chugging on me. (Basically, scientific computation) The current list is: r7 2700x for 341€ MSI b350m pro-vd+ for 55€ 1x G. Skill Aegis 3ghz/cl16 8gig for 79€ Corsair CX550M for 60€ for a total 534€ I have an SSD and a hard drive + other peripherals just lying about. For a month or so, this would be an out of the motherboard box system. I'd get another identical ram stick
  5. I don't care about modularity in this specific case. Noise and price are my only real considerations. If I can't find anything better, the CX450M will have to do.
  6. The lowest wattage one I can find is 450W. That seems a wee bit overkill, considering. Honestly, ideally I'd like one that's pretty much passively cooled.
  7. A 65W CPU (Either ryzen 2200g or 2400g), 2 sticks of crappy DDR4 ram and an old crucial 400 ssd I have in my drawer. I'm more or less aware of the needed wattage, I just don't really want to buy a 500W+ psu for this potato just to have it be silent on me.
  8. I'm looking for a low wattage PSU that doesn't engage its fan on when the system isn't at load. The problem is that google only really gives me PSUs with ridiculously large wattages for my intended use case. This is for a potato build for my mum, basicaly 2200g or 2400g and no GPU. So I'm not really expecting on breaking 100W's here
  9. So basically marketing speak and it's in no way different from the same models of yesteryear?
  10. So, dell has been calling its new iteration of the S2418HN an FHD "HDR" monitor, with the hdr having a nasty little "1" beside it that once pressed states that "Dell’s HDR feature has been designed with a PC user in mind and supports specifications that are different from existing TV standards for HDR. Please review the specs carefully for further details." So, what does this actually mean in practical terms? What is the different between it and other just high end displays?
  11. You do not lose literally anything by getting a second hand camera with a kit lens compared to one without it. Simple kit lenses go for next to nothing on the second hand market and effectively only increase the cost of the purchase by the cost of a few cups of coffee. And for that low cost, they give you a lot of flexibility. A 50 isn't "general purpose" on APS-C bodies. You might know what you need, I might know what I need, however the problem is that he definitely doesn't: F stops, focal lengths are basically just meaningless numbers to someone who is just starting out. He does
  12. Holy shit do smart watches not hold their price. I didn't assume that. Anyway this compares the two http://newatlas.com/moto-360-vs-lg-g-watch-r-smartwatch/34952/ The only thing I can say about either of the two personally is that my brother in law used to use the moto 360. He seemed satisfied with it, however that was a few years ago and he has changed watches since. Feel free to take it either as a recommendation by proxy or the opposite.
  13. The heart rate monitor makes this "not cheap" as few models actually have that functionality. This bumps the price up to around 250$, with the Huawei watch and Samsung gear being the cheaper options. If that isn't an absolute necessity, pebble has models available from around 80$
  14. I've tried VMing it, didn't like the results too much honestly. Also apparently it has pen support issues. Bugger.
  15. Everyone is telling him to get a second hand body. In which case the kit lens comes basically gratis. I got the 600d+kit+a bunch of batteries for around 250eur some some five years ago. Going the same route leaves a lot of options for his budget in the future. I had about the same starting budget, I went with a nifty fifty and a flash.