Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

Princess

Member
  • Content Count

    94
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

This user doesn't have any awards

About Princess

  • Title
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7 7700K @ stock
  • Motherboard
    ASUS Z170-K
  • RAM
    16GB DDR4 Corsair Dominator Platinum
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 1080 8GB
  • Case
    NZXT Phantom 510
  • Storage
    Samsung EVO 850 250GB, Some WB 1TB HDD for backup
  • PSU
    ANTEC EDG750 Gold 80+
  • Display(s)
    Asus MG279Q (144hz)
  • Cooling
    COOLERMASTER MasterAir Pro 4
  • Keyboard
    Razer Blackwidow TE
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502
  • Sound
    Sennheiser HD 598, Logitech G933, Hyper X Cloud II, Logitech Z333
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 x64

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I did a full wipe of the drive I had Windows on, and the very first thing I did was update the BIOS. I've solved half the issue, and it was... idiotic of me. I had a little GPU sag lift thingy, and it blocked the fan in my current case. Games are running absolutely fine with capped framerates now, but that's the second half of my issue. I'm hitting 400-800 FPS in Valorant/League with 50-60% usage, however it seems to be stuttering quite a bit. Moving left-right in League has my champion essentially teleporting left and right (for the first minute or so of the game, and then the FPS
  2. Hello. I've been getting massive frametime drops and frame drops in general. My old system was an i7-7700k + z170k + 16gb Corsair Dominator Platinum CL15 at 3000MHz in a 2*8GB configuration. Last night, I upgraded to an AMD 5600X + an X570-F, alongside a 16-18-18-18-36 3200MHz kit running in a 4*8GB configuration. I'm getting better RAM later on, but for now, that's the best I could source locally. I'm running a GTX 1080. Whatever game I play, from League of Legends to Valorant to Destiny 2, I get these terrible frame drops. The game is running at really high FPS, and then it j
  3. That board uses the Realtek RTL8125B 2.5G LAN, which (seemingly) doesn't have this issue. The problem is with boards using Intel® I225-V 2.5Gb
  4. I've read a lot of posts that boards like the B550 series and the Z490 series have incredibly bad performing internet due to the Intel chipset on them, and just in general. This post in particular seems to list the issue. Does anyone own these boards, has this been fixed? I'm about to get a motherboard and I'd rather not have scuffed internet if possible.
  5. I'm getting the 5800X because I don't think the 5600X is significant enough of an upgrade over my i7-7700k. Even that chip does just perfectly fine for me, but unfortunately it's relatively old and degrading by this point. I do tend to do a lot of multi-threaded things, but where I live, the 5900X is so significantly more expensive than the 5800X ($570 compared to $870) that it is absolutely not a worthwhile upgrade, while the 5600X is only $110 cheaper than the 5800X. I'd also like to stream at some point, and I've been told the 5800X should handle that just fine! I'd also really prefer
  6. Heyhey, just to put this in short terms; I'm getting a Ryzen Gen 3 system (with a 5800X), and I need to decide between two options of RAM, and on a motherboard. I'm gonna use this to run some high-end games and competitive eSports titles, alongside some photo and video editing, albeit nothing above 1440p. The options available to me are, in order of price, the X570-E and X570-F, alongside the B550-E and the B550-F. Which of these should I go for? The Wi-Fi and Bluetooth mean practically nothing to me, but I do like the idea of a Gen 4 PCIe lane for the GPU. Never gonna use SLI, tho
  7. First of all, hello!! Thank you so much for the input, it really did lead me down a few relatively useful rabbit holes that are letting me make a more informed decision on the purchase. For now, I've cancelled my order on the X570! I've got some follow up questions, if you wouldn't mind sparing some time to answer them when you can! 1) When it comes to the case, are three side intake fans enough for the O11-D? I know it's gonna lose about 30% of its pressure when it makes that 90° turn and that the case pressure should be positive so an exhaust fan isn't super required, but I'm wond
  8. Hey, I haven't built a computer since 2017 or so, and I'm looking to get some new components this and the following week. 1) In the case department, I'd like some advice between the NZXT h710i compared to the Lian Li 011 Dynamic! I prefer function over form. The NZXT is 50$ more expensive where I am, but it also offers 4 internal fans, whereas I'd have to shell out an extra 100$ for an RGB x3 intake fan setup with the Lian Li, since that case is basically begging for you to show off components, and I'd feel bad not doing that. I also travel about once a year, so less glass = better. B
  9. I tried to make do without that solution as I made various registry edits to disable as much telemetry and intrusive Cortana privacy as I could, and I... don't really remember what all those were. Specifically, what I'd hoped to do was, during those "PC won't boot" times, tried to boot into Windows Install USB. Every time the problem was ongoing, I would get an infinite purple screen. I tried removing the C: drive, and it still happened; so the C: drive being in the system wasn't causing the issue. However, in this last occurrence, it seemed to immediately fix itself once I plugge
  10. As far as chkdsk goes; I've scanned both my drives, Windows found nothing wrong with either. Not even 1 bad sector. However, for instances #2 and #3 of this problem happening, when the PC would finally boot properly, it would go ahead and scan the D: disk and then repair it every time. I've tried Windows Memory Diagnostic right now, and no errors were detected. The drives haven't been cloned, nor did I use any SSD trimming. I've more or less plugged them in and have been running them ever since. They've both gone through a handful of formats, but I doubt that would kil
  11. So, I checked for SMART values! Here's the results of the first drive, the C: drive; And here are the results of the second drive. I've also used Aida64 to stress test my CPU, Memory and 3 drives for an hour. Everything is working fine. Though, the D: drive said it was finished with the stress test, and then started again. Nothing else did that, though.
  12. Are you certain it's not the SSD, CPU or PSU? Removing it seemed to immediately fix the issue! I'll try to restart my PC now and see if the same fix can be manufactured by removing the drive, although... I'm not quite sure how a corrupt drive could stop me from loading into a Windows Install USB, is that possible? I'm only a bit hesitant because I can't really find a motherboard to fit Kaby Lake anywhere near me at the moment :'>
  13. Hello! I'm... really struggling here, and would appreciate some help. I'll try to provide as much details as possible. Components: CPU: i7-7700k GPU: GTX 1080 MSI Gaming X PSU: Antec EDGE 750W MOBO: Asus Z-170-K RAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum 2x8GB C: Drive: M.2 Western Digital SSD WDS240G D: Drive: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB So, to summarize my issue: First occurrence — So, about two weeks back, my PC was generally running a tad slow after I'd kept it on for three days, and so I restarted it. I was presented with an infinite loading sc
  14. I usually have a few windows of Chrome open dedicated to different things. Typically, when watching something related to my work, I'm gonna pause with space and then alt-tab into Discord to check for messages and all that, and alt-tab back, press space again, and there we go. But ever since my last Chrome/Windows update, when I sometimes tab out of Discord and back onto the video and press space, that video continues playing, but the video in the other tab also starts? Anyone have any explanation for how exactly this is happening?
×