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iovey

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About iovey

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  1. So I've owned an MSI monitor for about a year now, and for the past week or so it's been having little lines flickering on it. It started doing it pretty randomly, and I've already gone through all the diagnosis things I can think of to fix it and nothings worked, so I think I'm going to RMA it. The problem is, a few months back it got a small chip in the outer plastic screen from a USB cable (monitor was laid on my bed while I was cleaning my desk off to move back home, tossed some cables onto my bed not thinking anything of it) and I kinda don't want to go through all the hassle of packaging
  2. Okay sweet, does it need to be the same brand/skew? I remember DDR3 throwing fits if you tried to mismatch anything
  3. One of my Corsair RAM sticks went bad, I'm currently trying to track down my receipt in my email so I can RMA it, but I think I may have bought it in person and I definitely haven't held onto a physical receipt for that long so I'm losing hope on that front. There shouldn't be any problem if I buy a single stick to replace it, correct?
  4. I removed one stick of RAM and it seems to have cleared up, was able to play Dark Souls for about 3 hours last night. Thanks for your help!
  5. Underclock ram to 2400, booted but crashed. BSOD Memory_Management
  6. Removed GPU and while it did boot on integrated graphics, it still crashed. BSOD- Page Fault in Non-Paged area.
  7. New codes: SYSTEM_PTE_MISUSE, MEMORY_MANAGEMENT
  8. For the past month or so I've been having repeated stability issues in BSODs. Currently it's not booting, with stopcode 0xc000021a. It's had a bunch of different BSOD codes, mostly relating to drivers, memory, and storage, though I don't remember them all. My GPU was changed about a month before this started, and I replaced my boot drive a few days after it started. Everything else is about a year old, bar my power supply, which is about 7 years old, and my other drives which are a litany of ages. I've reinstalled windows 4-5 times, which seems to make it work 90% normally for about a week bef
  9. Ended up rolling back to my previous version of Windows and it worked just fine, the Windows Defender process doesn't even show up on here. A bug that makes Windows Defender spike usage to the point of freezing a 6 core processor is bad enough, but having a bug in that same build that makes it impossible to disable is so much worse.
  10. Additional note: Seems like it does it the worst on OS applications, File Explorer and Task Manager take much longer to launch than my browser does.
  11. I've had Window's Defender disabled since I upgraded to Windows 10, and it's been working fine up until I updated it earlier to try out GamePass. Ever since the update, it takes a good 5 seconds or more from when I click on any given application for it to launch a window, and from watching task manager it appears to be Window's Defender causing the freezes. I've enabled and redisabled it in regedit, I've made sure it's excluded itself, and I've disabled every option in Windows Security. None of it has made any difference. Does anybody have any ideas what might be going on? Is it a known issue
  12. Right off the bat, unless 4k is important to you I'd cross the Q535 off the list. I'm not sure that a U series processor will handle 3D software very well, although that depends on what actual software, but it definitely strikes me as a different sort of laptop than the other two. As far as the GU501 and the S63, personally I'd pick the GU501. The two extra cores will likely help a lot in any sort of 3D software and having a 120hz screen on a laptop sounds pretty fuckin sweet.
  13. So I've been using the same copy of Windows for about 6 years now, and I have long since lost the disk for it. I also just got a Macbook Pro for school, and I wanted to know if there was any way for me to use the copy of windows thats on my computer to make a usb installer for boot camp, or if I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and buy a new copy of windows.
  14. Didn't think to check the cable, but it works fine with non-quickcharge, and after a reset, so I don't think thats it. I'll check out the Ampere app and try and use a different type c cable if I can get my hands on one!
  15. So I recently got an LG V20, and I've had issues with fast charging the phone. I've tested 2 quick chargers, the stock LG one and the stock Samsung one, and both of them charge INCREDIBLY slowly. Android's prediction is about 7-8 hours from 0%. I can usually fix this by restarting the phone, where itll go down to a much more normal charge speed. The phone charges perfectly fine from my computer and my battery bank, which both do normal charge speeds of about 2-ish hours, so I really don't know what's wrong. UPDATE: Checked Ampere, when its charging slow, its outputting around 60-80 mA, and
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