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DarkEnergy

Member
  • Content Count

    2,276
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About DarkEnergy

  • Title
    Forum Lurker

Profile Information

  • Location
    U.S.
  • Gender
    Male

System

  • CPU
    FX 8350 @ 4.5GHZ
  • Motherboard
    M5A99FX Pro R2.0
  • RAM
    16GB @ 1600Mhz
  • GPU
    Radeon 5700 mega bottleneck :)
  • Case
    NZXT S340
  • Storage
    250gb SSD, 1tb HDD, 620gb HDD, 120gb SSD
  • PSU
    600 Watt crap
  • Display(s)
    LG 2k 144hz IPS 27" panel
  • Cooling
    212 EVO
  • Keyboard
    Ducky Shine 5 Arr Gee Bee
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502 Spectrum
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 64

Recent Profile Visitors

4,131 profile views
  1. Full size or 75%, preferably exploded on the 75% board.
  2. That motherboard looks pricey. There should be other B550 boards much less than that. Based on your "usage" description, the entire computer is probably more than you need. It'd be a good upper-mid/high end gaming rig if you're playing at 1080p.
  3. G502. Unlike some other logitech mice I've owned, this one has been functioning since ~2015 and still works.
  4. I'm probably just going to order some 3V 3535 LED's based on my measurements with a ruler and hoping 3V is the correct voltage. I'll also need to get some important things like a soldering iron, heat gun... and a new multimeter. I did try measuring voltage but (after patching my multimeter) I'm not confident in the reading. It reads 33V on one strip of LEDs (14 in series of 2x7 LED strips) but the LEDs weren't on long so the refresh rate of the screen might have missed other readings. A second test showed ~26V so clearly the refresh rate is an issue. Here is a video sh
  5. From my understanding, TV's usually have a backlight (LED strips) which diffuse through a diffuser (in my case a few plastic sheets) which then illuminate the pixels in the LCD panel. The LCD panel containing the pixels is not self-lit. Some TVs whose backlight has failed, produces no image on the screen but with a bright flashlight you could see the image.
  6. I have taken a basic electronics class in college but we didn't go into things like soldering or repair, more like how circuits work on a basic level. So apart from some simple breadboard stuff, I don't have any other experience. I do know there's two 450V capacitors on the "power" board. Luckily they discharge over time and after about an hour they're mostly empty. I tested with a cheap multimeter whose probe ended up breaking halfway through my LED test so I used the blunt end of an alligator tip to test the rest lol. I did come across one comment on a forum that mentioned some T
  7. Hello, I've acquired a Panasonic TV which had the symptoms of when being turned on, I hear a relay click twice (I think) and the power LED is red and blinking (a one blink code). There is no green LED at any point. I see the screen faintly flicker for a brief moment but that's it. I've tried doing some research online and tested some points on the power board. I can confirm that the TV does turn itself off within a few seconds of being turned on by measuring 0 volts on certain test points apart from ~5v on a standby measuring point. I've removed the led panel and got to the point of testing th
  8. I'm pretty sure the instructions when setting up bitlocker specify to NOT store the recovery key on the same drive that's being encrypted. He's out of luck for not being very smart.
  9. Something might be brushing up against a case fan.
  10. Every time I try using linux on a 2k 14" screen, the scaling is terrible. It's either 200% scaling which is too big or 100% scaling which requires a microscope. There's fractional scaling but it's terrible and there's a performance hit. I guess all linux users mostly run on <1080p or something. That's the main reason why I haven't switched on my main laptop. On my junker I'm running Solus.
  11. My first personal computer was a dell optiplex with a pentium 4, 512mb ram, 40gb hard drive and no graphics running Windows XP. I used that from ~2009? to 2012 and it was painful. Most notable upgrade was buying a new laptop.
  12. I personally wouldn't drop a brand based on one bad product experience. I've only stopped buying from one brand (Asus) after multiple product failures across many years and across different price points. Example from Asus: 2013 Nexus 7 touch screen, rotation sensor, failure. (lasted about 3 years). 2012 M5A99 FX R2.0 (Top of the line) motherboard USB grounding issue across TWO boards (first one RMA'd, but still failed). ~2012 Asus monitor HDMI EEPROM corruption and overall terrible white balance (whites look pink). 2021 Strix Carry mouse, bluetooth died after 3
  13. Does anything appear in event viewer? Maybe try a dism scan to check image health?
  14. It looks like there's a fairly new BIOS update you probably don't have: https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards-Components/Motherboards/All-series/TUF-GAMING-X570-PLUS-WI-FI/HelpDesk_BIOS/ You'd have to look at your motherboard manual for how to update bios. My computer just requires putting a file on a usb stick, and then selecting an update option in bios settings. My computer is about 8 years old though so the process may be different.
  15. Try updating bios. If that doesn't work, see if you can install an older version of windows 10, perhaps the latest version is having issues with your hardware that hasn't been patched yet.
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