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WhiteSkyMage

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Everything posted by WhiteSkyMage

  1. you mean inside the antifreeze/antifreeze mixture that I am cooling? I plan to do a 3:1 (water to antifreeze ratio) with some filter which Timmy Joe showed. I am just hoping that those beads will get the dehumidifying job well enough inside my airtight PC box.
  2. It gets -10C (14F) here in winter. I might as well attach a couple of rads with fans once temps are below 0C because there won't be any need to use the AC in this case. I can just cool my water with outside temps. MORA 3 will do the job....
  3. Thanks for the info. The chiller with my PC will probably be somewhere outside. I will just run a cable or 2 inside. So no worries about the air conditioning in my room. Also - it gets pretty cold where I live so I guess winter would be an overclocking heaven with some really chilly temps.
  4. I thought about oil but the issue then is that the maintenance will get very nasty. I am not going to be OCing that CPU as much as I would the GPU. There are also MB VRM heatsinks that I can use. So I am not sure if that's worth it though. I see a lot more people do chilling than oil cooling or rather they screw around with those Peltiers... Id rather stick to watercooling because I can do it and I do not need to buy that many fittings as I will not have that many components in that case - 2 for CPU, 2 for GPU, passthrough for the box. No need for radiators. So to be honest, s
  5. Hey there oc enthusiasts, I know there are some of you out there that manage to run your PC under sub-zero daily using an AC-chilled water. I am in the process of planning a similar project, but I just need to know a couple of things. First a couple of things to note - I plan on cooling an i9-9900K and a "worst case scenario" - 400-500W GPU (assume some next gen power-hungry Ampere/RDNA GPU). So the question is - in terms of "BTU" (British Thermal Unit) - what do you think would suffice? I saw a couple of guys on overclock.net do x2 10 000BTUs and 20K. A frien
  6. I was thinking about just making it easier in a way that - a flow meter. Just have the PC shut-off when the flow gets under a certain value. But my MB doesn't have a header for that... uhhh...
  7. I know what you mean. maybe I will find a work-around, but what I am trying to do here is to protect the PC from myself. So when I think about watercooling, I also think of how to safe-guard it. But yes, I do agree with your answer - it's just, maybe not from anyone else but myself.
  8. Hi guys, I would like to discuss something important for many of you who would like to take your cooling outside your PC case and are considering using something like the MO-RA3 420 (https://watercool.de/). JayTwoCents recently uploaded a video on “How to install a PC KILL SWITCH” (video: So what do I intend to do is to use a Raspberry Pi to essentially “control” the switching on and off. Imagine a scenario where someone would like to play a prank and disconnect one of the tubes outside your case that is going into your external radiator. Imagine that you forgot to p
  9. It's actually a good time to get in there if you want to become a good pilot. There is a new flight model in the newest Alpha Patch 3.5. If you want to kick noobs' butts at release (because there is a learning curve!), then yup, it's a good time to start now. In terms of development, for me the 'real' development of Star Citizen Universe MMO has begun in 2015. Before that, they were mostly working on the Arena Commander and Hangar modules. It was about building tools and the company itself. I do not care if it takes till 2025 for the MMO-part to release. To be honest, I am more exc
  10. yes. But where are the Ryzen/Vega APU tablets then? I will not buy a Surface Pro with the shitty intel integraded HD Iris graphics. They SUCK. I need Ryzen Mobile and Vega 11 in a tablet (15W SoC). That's gonna crush both Apple A12Xs (in iPads) and anything from Qualcomm. Yes, Battery won't be long, but I can sacrifice WEIGHT and THINNESS for an even bigger battery. Maybe dual or triple batteries. I.E. I want to carry powerful BRICK of a tablet. Double the fatness of this first generation iPad. Example:
  11. A surface-like Android tablet is what I am asking for... I don't care if it costs $1000-$2000. This is how much iPads cost anyway...though I wouldn't buy an Apple device, I need an Android with the same kind of power.
  12. Qualcomm announced that really powerful SoC that looks like it can match an Apple A12/X. Why are they marketing it for laptops and not for tablets? You can have a big enough battery in an Android tablet to supply those 7W. I would like an Android tablet with the power of a console...(like the iPad has an Xbox 1 performance). I don't actually care if it weights 2kg and it being fatter than all the tablets that exist on the market currently.
  13. yes, the thing you stick paper to the wall... it seems to work for now. I don't know how much it can hold up but im hoping it would hold for at least until my new radiator is here. Hopefully Alphacool hasn't got this issue. By the way, what kind of screws should I use not to pierce the rad? They say "not long" but you have to use long ones to go through the case and through the fan and into the rad. I am sure I haven't punctured this rad and it's just a defect. But I just wanna make sure to avoid this with the alphacool one.I think they provide 30mm screws but again, isn't that too l
  14. Blu Tack. Yup, this is water resistant it seems... I have tissues under just in case..
  15. Well I will be replacing it for sure... Most likely with an alphacool rad (I already ordered one...
  16. Well, shell or not, it leaks from there, through those holes.
  17. Stop there. Yes - it does use screws to seal the rad. Look carefully See the screws at the bottom? Yes - that is where it leaks!
  18. yes, that is what i did. I swapped the ram sticks/took hdd and ssd out, changed GPU, and reset CMOS, and took battery off and on... result: no post. Red LED on CPU and 00 q code. Everyone i asked told me it's a dead CPU. I came to the same conclusion. I can take it to a local store for testing, id pay them, but I don't expect that this CPU will ever post.
  19. It doesn't leak from there. It's the opposite side of the extensions where the leak is from. I think it may be a loose screw or something. I will not put pressure on my PC until I don't replace this radiator... There is no leak right now as the glue tag is stuck there and there is no pressure from my pump (running low speed).
  20. which "extensions" are you talking about? Do you mean the screws around the radiator?
  21. Well i just got a good offer on it, and no im not buying a Xeon cuz I do need these cores to be high clock speed. However this CPU was NOT listed as "for parts or not working", it was listed as USED and the description said, it was 100% functional. So i bid on it and won and then the CPU didn't work when i installed it.
  22. I used the screws provided by EK. It's leaking from the corner, not from where the screws are. I was able to stop the leak using a Glue tag from the outside.. Here: This is the exact same leak I have... but mine is PE 120, not SE 240.
  23. yeah hopefully not. I know what I'm doing, however it's a shame I didn't notice the radiator leak until i didn't mount it. I am not sure how long this glue tag will hold so I will order a new radiator today.
  24. Yes, that is a good suggestion. I can take do that tomorrow in fact, cuz I already started an ebay refund. I am waiting for the seller to respond.
  25. Well I have the H240X AIO cooler (from Swiftech - includes rad/pump/res combo+waterblock) on top, going to my CPU Waterblock (Epogee XL), Going to my 120mm rad from EK (PE), to my GPU (FC WB from EK) then to another 240mm radiator from MagiCool and back up to H240X. it's all Copper/bronze. I am using EK's clear CRYOFUEL.
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