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Posts posted by W-L

  1. 16 hours ago, Gadman said:

    how would i turn on the pump and lights separate without turning on the mb yet ?  

    As said by thrasher keeping the pump connected to the motherboard CPU header is a good idea to ensure that there is no problem with cooling or the potential of the pump dying which would give an RPM warning. Same for the PSU and motherboard as they are essentially synced together already. 

  2. 44 minutes ago, Gadman said:

    Hi I'm looking for some helpim planning on building my own pc case and is there any way to have 4 switches to turn on a PSU then pump then lights then pc monitor then I will need a momentary switch to turn on the mb ?


    I want each switch to turn on something different 

    For the motherboard power switch yes you will want a momentary switch, as for the other if you want to have a toggle like switch similar to a race car arming all the system before starting that can be done. Just note that those will have to be latching push switches or a regular on/off toggle, for things like the pump and the lights. Only thing is the PSU the only way to toggle that would be to do so using the switch on the back of the unit. 

  3. On 11/13/2020 at 11:10 PM, Dango said:

    Hey guys. I am planning to build new rig. I can't find a res+d5 combo that I like. I would like to have the LED on the res to work with Aura sync. All the res are cylinder tubes. Kind tired of that after been using it for over 6 years.


    Here are the 2 options that I am looking at.

    Bitspower Premium Cubiod Reservoir 150 (DDC) PRO: High quality, Aura Sync support. CON: High pricing, DDC pump.

    MAELSTROM D5 V2 SERIES 100 Black                  PRO: D5 Pump, good pricing. CON: ARGB no Aura Sync support.


    Please let me know what do you think and if you have different suggestion.

    I personally have one of the Heatkiller D5 combo units, they're pretty nice there is also a channel in the rear of one of the supports for you to install some thin LED's if you want to backlight the res. Also this unit unlike the others has a glass tube section. 



    Watercool Heatkiller Tube 200 D5 Reservoir – Page 2

  4. On 11/17/2020 at 10:31 AM, Edward78 said:

    Is there a place that will mod a case for you if you have an idea, but not the resources?

    It very much depends on what you want done, something simple like a PSU shroud or custom radiator mounts etc are easy but if you want a complete custom case as others have suggested places like Proto case would be your best bet or a local metal shop. Just note that stuff like that for a one off will be expensive. 


  5. 8 minutes ago, D4550 said:

    When I originally bought this case in 2016 it did not come with a PSU Shroud Cover.  I always meant to buy one but the case was slightly hidden and didnt bother me all that much.  Now that my case is on a shelf on the wall I am staring at a bunch of cables everyday and its driving me nuts.  In the US the shroud covers are not being sold anywhere, at least that I could find.  Anyone have any ideas what I could use as a cover?  Or better yet know where I can buy an official one?

    If you are comfortable working with acrylic you can heat bend a sheet to create one. There are also custom cover made palaces like cold zero specialize in that kind of work.  



  6. 2 hours ago, Ankh Tech said:

    So laser engraving is not for clothes what about vinyl, is it a good option, or does it wear off?

    For vinyl that depends on what you are doing to it, if you are referring to vinyl wrap like film then that can get cut on a laser but may be best to have done on a vinyl plotter since it may distort from the heat of the laser. If you want to for example powder coat or paint a surface with and then burn through that coating to get nice crisp text or logos that can be done relatively easily. 


    Not certain about etching vinyl wrap I think it most likely will melt or burn through since the film is relatively thin. 

  7. 3 hours ago, Lachlancraw40 said:

    Good morning fellow pc enthusiasts, I recently have started building a mineral oil pc. I loved the idea of these specifically for the potential of silence. On every task other then gaming the computer could basically be passively cooled. So of course I want the pump and radiator fans to not be turned on all the time but I’m not sure how to go about this. I found this thermostat switch https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Waterproof-Instruments/dp/B08DCFS4HD

    Which I could use for the pump since the pump has a speed controller built in but the fans will need speed controlled from the motherboard. So how do I go about syncing the fans and pump so they turn on the same time?

    As mentioned you may be able to do this all on the motherboard since some have a Temp in option for a fluid sensor, you will need to check for that. You can then set the pump to the lowest possible setting. Most boards don't allow for the CPU fan to run at zero RPM so it will have to have some kind of RPM line feedback. 

  8. 51 minutes ago, Ankh Tech said:

    What about fabrics? Or is a vinyl better for clothes, aslo is there transparent vinyl 

    Laser marking fabric is doable this is commonly down now in industry to add patterns or distress jeans. For fabric what you're thinking of is heat embossing that applies a layer of plastic onto of the fabric. Those are good but tend to crack or degrade from age. Some higher quality products will have inkjet dye printing. 


  9. On 11/15/2020 at 11:33 PM, Ankh Tech said:

    Oh, so there are coloured laser engravers for certain materials, otherwise, I get a normal laser engraver and paint on top of that?

    That i'm not completely certain on but that "color" laser engraver should be able to also etch regular surfaces like aluminium/anodizing and paint without issue also. 

  10. 5 minutes ago, Ankh Tech said:

    Yes but I saw that you can laser engrave without colour and use colours to paint on it and then re engrave it or something like that

    Yes what's essentially happening is you are engraving a recess in a material for paint to adhere well to and then afterwards just removing that paint from certain areas to obtain a logo or lettering for example. This is useful for materials that cannot be colored at all like on plastic which would just melt or give a burned or grayed text look normally. 

  11. 3 minutes ago, Ankh Tech said:

    How to do that, I'm new to all of this

    It essentially had to do with how the laser marks or interacts with the material to create that thin film oxide, different power, speed, and a host of other settings determine these parameters. Depending on the manufacture some may have general guidelines provided if you tell them the marking application while others will not have any information and it will be up to the operator to determine it's settings. 


    These sample cards are a good example of what can be potentially achieved on the appropriate materials. 




  12. 4 minutes ago, Ankh Tech said:

    Printing on branded products, with my logo, or, custom logo designs, and many companies don't have true coloured custom logo, mostly colour printing which erases, I'll sell stuff like flash drives, phone cases, charging dock, and the such, oh and maybe merch too

    What you mostly will have occur with standard household products is just 2 tone engraving, not color engraving as the material the product is made of needs to be made of stainless steel which is the most commonly used for thin film oxide engraving to achieve those colors.


    It's not the laser that makes the color but the interaction with light and the base material to achieve it. What can be done however is to laser etch into the surface of material to then have coloring added to fill in the lasered void to achieve a colored log.


    Things like aluminum like on a phone will engrave well since it will essentially etch through any anodization and into the base metal but only yield you a gray aluminum not color. 

  13. 10 hours ago, imit08 said:

    Are there any pcie riser cables available where the length of the cable is cylindrical / more compact , rather than being flat all the way through. Thanks for the help :)

    Unfortunately due to the way shielding has to be maintained and the connectors at the end it's not as feasible to have it in a round cable format. There are manufacture's that are narrower which may help in your application if space is of concern. 



  14. Just now, Ankh Tech said:

    So utilising this for mass producing isn't reliable?

    It is reliable but you need very good process control and tuning, as the laser itself will also degrade with age and require periodic tuning and calibration on top of everything that is been discussed this far. Laser engraving on products is very relevant since it's superior to a physical application of something on top of a material's surface or even chemical etching due to the speed and reliability not to mention variability being able to change a design file and continue lasering where other processes will have much more work involved. 


    What are you considering doing with this machine?

  15. On 11/4/2020 at 12:12 AM, Ankh Tech said:

    So I found this product from colour cnc and I think it is legit, what are your thoughts?

    here it is:


    This is a legitimate product, how those colors are achieved is essentially though thin film interference using the base material itself. Essentially you are forming a colored oxide layer, this is mainly used on stainless and titanium parts as those yield the best color spectrum. As with all lasering based operations all of this is done via trial and error there is no set method or option to just select a color as you have about a few dozen parameters you can configure in the laser and this is not including the material itself which can greatly affect the coloring. 


    Even buying the same grade of metal will yield differences as there is a manufacturing tolerance, the best applications of theses machines if you want colored lasering is for artistic applications. Just know it is not possible top yield deep hues or saturation in color as most thin film oxides are almost of a pastel like appearance


    It's not possible to color laser plastic only burn it and it must be specialized material. 

  16. On 10/26/2020 at 5:50 PM, severide said:

    Hey guys,


    I have an O11D XL in white. I've purchased a couple of white Hardware Lab rads that are more cream/warm white and don't match the case well at all. Has anyone here tried to color match the white of the O11D? I'm not necessarily looking for the exact color, but I'd love to get the rads to match more closely. Let me know if you have any recommendations or experience with this particular case or best way to color match unless buying 20 spray cans of different whites is the only way, lol. Thanks!

    For white paint you are best to look for automotive paints as they usually have the best brightness and vibrancy compared to regular hardware store stuff. Brining a small piece of the case that's white to compare can also help, as some places can even color match to something that will be close to what they have on shelf or custom mix something. 

  17. 1 hour ago, BerenElendil said:


    Try looking for local sheet metal/fabrication companies some may be willing on take on one off jobs but in terms of fabrication if you wanted to even have something done yourself you can look at using a scroll saw to cut out the opening and mark the locations for drilling using a drill press. For $500 that sounds about right for a one off part that require both tool path times and machine time to laser cut and post process. 


    If you have a university or college nearby see if they have a shop that they may be able to have students fabricate sheet metal components.  

  18. 44 minutes ago, vopos said:

    Does anyone have any experience with the freezemod ali express pumps, or should I get an XSPC pump? 

    It looks very similar to the Barrow style of the D5 they aren't considered to be a rebrand of the D5. A real D5 will have a stainless impeller and surround as the pump itself is also cooled by the fluid that flows through it, these are just the same form factor. 


    For the cost if you ware looking for a slightly more cost effective solution a low power DDC isn't a bad option.  

  19. 8 minutes ago, Slight43 said:

    Awesome, I've looked at those Barrow(which) Bynski water cooling products. Kinda wondered if they where good enough. So quick question. Is 800lh enough pump for a videocard/cpu setup? I heard people saying 350 or 400lh is enough but that sounds low. And I'm not sure that translates to head pressure which I also heard was king when picking a pump. That's the problem no one ever agrees on anything. Any info will help. And thanks for the advice.

    Flow isn't very relevant what you mainly want is to look for is pressure as you are trying to force the fluid through the blocks for cooling. If you want a budget pump that's still decent quality I'd recommend to go with something like the DC-LT from Alphacool they aren't the most powerful thing out there but for the price not bad and deemed relatively reliable. It's used in their eisbaer expandable AIO units. 



  20. 5 minutes ago, Slight43 said:


    I don't really recommend going really cut throat and getting aliexpress or cheap watercooling components, they don't need to be the absolute best of the best but still get good quality stuff to last. Main thing you want to avoid is mixing metals and get all copper based loop components. 


    In terms of waterblock, and fittings I'd recommend to look at barrow or Bykski as they are more of a budget option while still being good quality and comparable to nicer blocks. For the pump if you want to save a little the DDC or lower power versions like the variants like SPC60 from EKWB are alright.

  21. 1 minute ago, methanebomb said:

    I didnt use any system prep, i probably should have. I used a bykski 120mm rad, bits power fittings, ek petg tubing, a new distro plate from ebay and corsairs xg7. If all else fails i can just take the block apart and clean it which i might end up doing 

    I'm guessing it's probably some flux or debris from the rads mainly that came out, it's always best to flush and rinse the rads before assembly. I usually recommend to fill them around 50% with just tap water to vigorously shake and rinse, to do that about a half dozen times before giving it a final wash with distilled water. 


    It's probably alright for the time being and you can let it be until the next maintenance cycle just keep and eye on temps to ensure it's not building up. 

  22. Just now, methanebomb said:

    Well i just finished this build yesterday, everything is brand new

    Was the components mainly the rads properly flushed before assembly? 


    It may have been something also during manufacturing when they assembled the block leaving a film on some surfaces. What are your watercooling loop components?

  23. 1 minute ago, methanebomb said:

    I recently finished building my first watercooling build for my gpu and i see that it has this slight grime or this cloudy buildup on the inside of the plastic area. I was wondering if there is any way to clean this out. I also see some little fuzzy particles around the micro fins, is there any way to get those out of the system?

    How long has it been since you did maintenance, usually you want to change fluid every 6-12 months and open for cleaning if there is any build up.


    Some minor build up or coating of surfaces can occur so you will need to take apart the GPU block and open it for cleaning, before properly reassembling it.  

  24. On 10/6/2020 at 7:34 AM, Trilex said:

    I am trying to print a diy version of the GOXLR. What is the best what going about this (see file). I need the top to be by itself but the bottom printed together. Problem is printing the quote for the bottom costs about 300$$$, so i am at a loss. Any solutions are appreciated. 

    GOXLR Final.stl 4.43 kB · 5 downloads

    As said that's not really a viable print project nor is it suited to be printed, you would be better off getting it made by a metal or plastics shop which can cut and bend it to shape.