gergy008

USB 4 will use the same USB Type-C connector that we have right now

This sounds very alike an overcurrent situation

Use a USB to SATA adapter

CAS latency won't affect dual channel, it should work fine if it's the same MHz. I recommend you choose a stick that is as close to the ones you have already if possible. I also believe any ol stick will work fine, again as long as it's similar to what you have. If you have DDR3L in the system already - get DDR3L. DDR3 may not work in a DDR3L system, but DDR3L will work in a DDR3 system.

GPUs do not deprecate speed over time. IE, the older it is doesn't mean it is slower than a brand new one That said, yes it will have a lower lifespan. Everything has a finite life and use of a product will cause it to reach it's death faster. This doesn't mean it won't last 4 years. It also doesn't mean it will make it to 4 years. A 2070 Super is a great chip and depending if you can get it cheap, and who made the card - It may be worth the investment, and should do you well for a long time to come.

This could potentially and most likely be a PSU issue. It sounds like the PSU overcurrent protection is being triggered. Does it do it completely randomly or just under high load?

As you mentioned - white is a VGA POST Issue. Cables must always be plugged into the GPU and not the motherboard. Does the system get past the white light with no GPU installed or monitor plugged in at all?

Is it weird I actually remember Linus unboxing that motherboard?

Someone tag Luke

I spotted a comment on Floatplane of someone saying they don’t feel they’re getting a compelling value out of Floatplane. I took a moment to explain what the state of Floatplane is right now, with it in beta and made a guess about the stuff the team is prioritising. I mentioned that we’re on Floatplane to support the journey, and LMG and that creature comforts would come in due course. However it got me thinking; as a developer I was about to start my own vessel competitior at their, demise shall we call it, until I noticed Luke and the team step forward to create their own here on

Check all your power connections and make sure the PSU switch is on

I seem to be closer to solving this - I updated the BIOS to F7 (Board shipped with F4), and setup the fans to full speed in the bios. I then saved the profile in the bios, then saved and restarted and it seems to be working (or now) If you don't hear from me again, then that's fixed it for me and if anyone else has this issue I'd recommend these as a start.

If that’s what worked - there’s something wrong with the button itself, the leads or the way it was connected. At least your board is good!

Can you try bridging the pins for the power switch with something metal?

What motherboard did you choose? Just curious.