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Everything posted by VioletGiraffe

  1. I'm going to be moving my system into the new case - Thermaltake Core X9. The system itself is nothing to write home about: CPU: Ryzen 7 1700 + a CPU waterblock Mobo: a regular ATX board (not mini, not extended) GPU: single GTX 1080 Ti Founder's Edition + a full cover waterblock PSU: Corsair RM1000i - this one is slightly longer than lower wattage PSUs. Storage: 1x3.5" HDD, 2x2.5" SSDs. This will be cooled by the following components: DDC-1T pump. It will be running at 2060 RPM because that's its sweet spot for ultra low noise, anything
  2. I don't believe it says that on the box anywhere, but whatever. That's why non-PWM fans are better, and I'm still dissatisfied with EK's engineering - because, as I said, it is quite possible to make a PWM fan support 3-pin connection flawlessly, they just didn't bother.
  3. Most PWM fans have no such problems and work just fine on 3-pin headers. If a fan does not properly handle open-circuit PWM line it's a design flaw. They could have fixed it with an internal pull-up or pull-down resistor on the PWM line. They weren't stellar fans in terms of noise with proper 4-wire connection either.
  4. Here's another very interesting comparison (source). In this test Arctic P14 were the best at all speeds as a case fan and on a CPU cooler, but on a liquid cooling radiator their low-noise performance is unfortunately far from the best. Also, I'm disappointed in e-loop and Silent Wings 3 fans, I was sure one of these would be the best. And surprised by Noctual NF-A14, which I do have on my thin 280 mm radiator and I'm not too pleased with their noise (anything above 620 RPM is audible). But in this test A14 were among the best in the ultra low noise range. Also, these Fractal Desig
  5. I have one of the two radiators in my case on the intake (that is, air is blown through the rad and into the case), and I don't like it. It gets too hot inside. I suppose you could alleviate the problem by having enough case fans blowing the air through fast, but that's extra noise and extra cost (the fans) just to fix the problem you created in the first place. I don't recommend inward-blowing radiators.
  6. Found an interesting bunch of fan reviews: http://thermalbench.com/2016/09/22/be-quiet-silent-wings-3-140-mm-fan/3/ http://thermalbench.com/2016/02/12/blacknoise-nb-eloop-b14-ps-and-b14-3-140mm-fans/3/ Basically, e-loop are great for low restriction flow and for super low noise; Silent Wings are great for restricted flow but their noise floor is a bit too high (they just can't spin slow enough). TY-147A SQ are good all around and for their price, but not the best in any category.
  7. 3 pin is a plus for me. I don't trust PWM versions after buying EK Vardar PWM fans which made extra noise if you connect them to 3 pins instead of 4 - sold those in a hurry and won't buy anything from EK again. Apparently, the controller wasn't designed to properly handle total lack of the PWM signal. Thanks for the recommendations. I've been thinking about NB e-loop fans as well because I have the 120 mm version on my 360 rad and they're excellent - inaudible at 800 RPM. But I wasn't sure they're actually the best for my scenario, and they're super expensive. It's too
  8. What would you call the best fans for virtually inaudible operation on a thin (28-30 mm) liquid cooling radiator with 14-16 FPI? I'm interested in the models that are the very best, but also in those that are best bang for buck in the middle price segment. I assume that "virtually inaudible" will be 600-700 RPM. For example, my Noctua NF-A14 FLX are well audible at 700, but I hope to find a better fan than those. P. S. A bit disappointed in the Noctua product and won't buy them again any time soon unless they come up with a new ground-breaking model.
  9. Wow, thanks, I must have been reading the specs for some other SKU somehow. There's a Youtube video of this very module x2 working at 3200 CL16, which of course doesn't guarantee anything, but I've also heard of 2133 Samsung 8 GB modules working at 3200 and 3333 with 1st-gen Ryzen 7.
  10. I'm in the market for a 2x16 kit (mostly because of the silly modern software "technologies" where everything runs in a browser. Sigh.). I have a Ryzen 1700, and I would very much like to hit at least 2933 MHz, better yet 3066 (not even hoping for 3200, I couldn't even get that from a 2x8 kit). I know a 3200C14 kit would be a safe bet as those are pretty much guaranteed to have Samsung chips, but these kits are very scarce in my local stock and are quite expensive. 3600 kits are in greater abundance, but also expensive and I'm not positive they're guaranteed to be Samsungs. So I'm
  11. Coffe Lake is 6-core Kaby Lake, right? No architectural improvements should be expected?
  12. Interesting, but totally inconclusive: he uses a low TDP CPU, and he only includes this CPU in the loop. The air coming out of my top 360 mm rad is pretty hot, around 36-38 C with ambient being 24. I have a very cool CPU and reasonably hot GPU in the loop, for the grand total of 250-300W.
  13. Yes, you're right. They should have normal operating temps of about 100 C, possibly 125 C. The VRM capacitors in all the decent boards are 105 C, and chokes are probably not sensitive to temps in this range, either. But MOSFETs are very small surface area pieces with relatively small heatsinks so they may still get hot (whether or not they easily get dangerously hot, I do not know). Having them in the loop makes all the difference, of course.
  14. Thanks. If I was getting fun out of rebuilding this stuff I would just do it and see for myself, rather than ask. As it happens, I enjoy using the system, I enjoy planning the build, but I hate actually building it. That's why I'm asking instead of just doing and experimenting. So thanks for your replies, looks like you have unanimously put my concern to rest
  15. Exactly my concern. However, if you have air through both rads blowing in, then you have optimal cooling performance for the LCS loop, BUT you're dumping all that heat into the case, rising the temperatures of all the air-cooled components inside. Also not ideal, and could even shorten the life span of your mainboard (think of the CPU MOSFETs, esp. if you have a multi-core HEDT overclocked CPU that consumes 250-300W).
  16. Eh. It's overkill for the current setup (big overkill). But I wonder whether I'm not getting the best possible performance from the cooling setup. Besides, I'm planning to upgrade the system this autumn or thereabouts, and I aim for some serious hardware - hopefully a Threadripper 12-core CPU (failing that, a Skylake-X 8-core) plus a 4K-capable graphics card (at least a GTX1080). I estimate the current system's peak heat production at 300W-350W, and the one I have planned will be ~550W, maybe even 600.
  17. It is a fully custom loop. It's already assembled, has been running for almost a year. Lately I started to wonder whether I need to tear it down to actually improve performance. That's essentially what I'm asking.
  18. Quite on contrary: there is a dust filter in front of this rad (on the outside of the case), and there's already more fans blowing out than in (1x140 + 3x120 out, 2x140 in), and no space to add more intake fans. Hm. I guess the easiest way to kind of test the system without the front rad is to disable this rad's fans. Problem is, the ambient temperature is always different, and it moves up and down, never stable (usually it moves up slowly after I turn the PC on). Such measurements need a thermo-regulated lab, my results will be inconclusive. Unless I'll see a difference of over 5 degree
  19. I have a Corsair 750D case. I have two radiators inside: a thin XSPC EX280 on the front panel blowing in, and a thick 360 in the top blowing out. I don't have any pictures of my own system, but the loop layout is very much like this, except I have no bottom radiator (this image is not mine!): My question is: how bad for the overall system cooling performance is it that the front radiator is heating the air inside the case (and, thus, the air coming into the top rad that's blowing outwards)? Did anyone experiment with such layouts and measured them? Obviously, moving the
  20. How do you like this monitor? Are there any ghosting / image persistence issues?
  21. It's an interesting point, thanks for sharing that experience. I have not had a chance to listen to anything better than HE-400. I've been wanting to get new - better - headphones, but have no idea what to aim for and what models to research. Especially if, as you say, HE-560 are not that great either. What are the most revealing headphones that you know?
  22. If the "newer options" produce ringing, for example, that can be mistaken for better detailing (i. e. the details were not in the recording and the DAC adds them due to distortions). Subsequently, if your reference sound is recessed, then naturally the correct sound would seem "forward". All I can say is I've compared ODAC (rev. 1 - ESS DAC) to EMU 0404 (AK4396) and to AD1855. All three sounded exactly the same, I did not find any difference using my Hifiman HE-400 planar headphones and selected lossless recordings widely regarded as being suitable for testing audio equipment. Thus
  23. I have no doubt that has truly been your experience, but I very strongly suspect low price of the Modi 2 is exactly the reason you've liked it more. ODAC is a reference-level transparent DAC. Modi probably has distortions that you happen to like, that's why you rated it higher. I, on the other hand, avoid equipment that produces distortions so high they can be heard by human ear (and not only measured by sensitive equipment). How much do you want for your ODAC? P. S. O2 amp is great, too, I have it as well.
  24. I can wholeheartedly recommend the ODAC, but you will need a headphone amp to pair with it. I've also listened to a couple DIY desktop DAC+amp combinations made by knowledgeable people from good components. They all sounded indistinguishable from my EMU 0404 USB. Hence, I can recommend EMU 0404 as a complete and reliable package.
  25. What do you mean by breakup? Is that a technical term?