Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


This user doesn't have any awards

About ej24

  • Title
  • Birthday April 14

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Gender
  • Interests
    All things science.
  • Biography
    PhD student studying metabolic diseases and toxicology
  • Occupation
    PhD Student


  • CPU
  • Motherboard
    GA Z97N-WIFI
  • RAM
    16GB Crucial Ballistix Tactical Low Profile DDR3 2133MHz
  • GPU
    Zotac GTX 1080 FE
  • Case
    DR Ząber SENTRY
  • Storage
    2x Crucial MX200 1TB 2.5in SATA SSD
  • PSU
    Corsair SF600
  • Display(s)
    55in LG OLED
  • Cooling
    Thermolab LP53
  • Keyboard
    Logitech K830 and Logitech F710
  • Sound
    Pioneer Elite 7.2 with Polk S20 speakers and PSW505 subwoofer
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Sentry 2.0 Engineering Sample Review (link) I was lucky enough to be selected by ZombiPL and SaperPL to receive an engineering sample of Sentry 2.0 for review. I'm providing my honest review as well as a comparison of Sentry 2.0 to Sentry 1.1. Click the link above to see my review on Hardforum.com
  2. For anyone following Sentry 2.0 here, I'll be posting an engineering sample review soon. You can find more coverage of Sentry 2.0 on SFF.net and [H]ardforum
  3. I have some spare hardware lying around. Thinking of trying this. A few questions, should I provide a static IP in my routers DHCP leases for the steamcache, origin cache, and windows cache? Second, should I change the DNS settings on my router to the separate cache addresses as primary then something like for secondary? That way I don't have to changes the DNS settings on all my individual PCs? Or would that mess things up for the router? And do I need all the various caches listed as DNS, or just one? (I just noticed linus says to just configure it in the router, so yes?)
  4. Noctua thermal paste is also very good. As for the LP53, see my review on [H]ard forum https://hardforum.com/threads/thermolab-cooltek-lp53-review.1923635/
  5. You'll be totally fine. I have an i7-4790K (delidded and undervolted) and a GTX 1080 Founders Edition (overclocked) and don't have issues. However the difference with my setup is I'm using the Thermolab LP53 cpu cooler with the Noctua NF-a9x14 fan. It's quite a bit better than the typical nh-l9i. Other than that I recommend a high quality thermal paste like Thermal Grizzly Cryonaut.
  6. Right. But you're trying to cool 250W in an extra small form factor. Plus with the Zotac heatsink the fins run longitudinally and thus the hot air has two places to go, out the rear i/o or straight out the opposite end of the card and into the gpu chamber. If you want to keep the card I would recommend adding a rubber seal between the perimeter of the face (fan side) of the gpu and the case. That seal ensures no hot gpu exhaust is recycled into the gpu fans, and it also creates very high pressure inside the case, forcing hot air out. By doing this you basically turn your gpu into a case fan. I
  7. This is why blower cards are preferred. What you described is exactly how the gpu cooler is designed to work. It's possible with Masada02's setup he has more positive pressure forcing some of the heat out.
  8. Ok so I left hdmi deep color off in the TV settings and then tried to play hdr content from Netflix. It worked. The TV puts up a notification saying it's switching to Dolby Vision. I had to manually turn it back off in settings after the show was over because nothing else would display again. The chromecast menu and other sdr content fails to display with deep color turned on. That was the mistake I was making. The TV will notify you when something is trying to display hdr content. Don't try to turn on hdmi deep color ahead of time unless the device connected is pumping out hdr all the time.
  9. It's not that complicated really, three hdmi from my three devices into the receiver, one to the TV. With a plain old dumb TV the receiver handles everything. With a smart TV, the TV tries to handle everything but just ends up sh*tting it's pants. I already had an issue where the version of dolby vision on the TV was newer than that in the receiver and the AVR was displaying an error on screen. Contacted Pioneer and they directed me to a firmware update to update their implementation of dolby vision. Fixed the error I was getting, but still no real hdr pass through that I can tell
  10. Yes, at least it should be, but I can't see it. Unfortunately the TV says it's receiving no signal over hdmi (from the receiver) the moment I turn on hdr/wide color gamut (4:4:4, 4:2:2, 4:2:0) in the TV settings. Nothing displays to know if it's working. Can't see my chromecast anymore. As for the pc, the only way my pc even allows me to toggle hdr is if its directly connected to the TV and not through the AVR. It seems like the AVR isn't reporting/passing through hdr capability?
  11. I just got an LG 55B7A OLED tv, its great. I also had to get a new receiver as my old one didn't support HDCP2.2, 4K60, HDR, etc. So, I got a Pioneer Elite VSX-LX102 7.2 channel receiver that supports all the HDR standards, 4K60hz, HDCP2.2 on all inputs and so on. I have a Windows 10 PC (with a GTX1080, so HDR capable), Chromecast Ultra (4k60, HDR capable), and a regular Bluray player (not 4k, no HDR) connected to the receiver with brand new HDMI 2.0 cables and then a single HDMI 2.0 to the TV from the HDMI out of the receiver. I immediately learned how much I hate smar
  12. Worried? Worried about what? They will get your sentries to you as soon as they're ready. The small delay is just waiting for painting of the white Sentry. They'll probably ship both at the same time to save on shipping costs so the black one will wait to be shipped with the white one. I'm sure the Ząber guys will update everyone as soon as the white Sentries are painted.
  13. Thanks for the prompt reply. I decided I didn't feel like messing around with patches and cracks. I purchased the digital version in Origin. I figure it will have better long term support if there are additional OS incompatibilities in the future that cracks can't fix. My only issue now is the gamedata.ini isn't present in the origin version so idk how to increase the camera height. I'll look for other threads on that topic. Edit: I dropped an edited ini file in a folder within the origin game folder and it actually worked.
  14. A quote from the EA forums " The issue is that Windows 10 (not sure about Windows 8.1) no longer has support for the SafeDisc copy protection mechanism. It is trying to make this check and the driver is not being loaded on the system. There are many Event Viewer logs that show this. Microsoft has not yet come out with an official statement on the matter that I know of, so there is not an official way to fix this. See this Microsoft forum message for more information: https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/games_windows_10/secdrvsys-not-l