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anothertom

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  1. Agree
    anothertom got a reaction from HenrySalayne in YETI Pro - 5-Pin XLR cable splitter ?   
    If you go with using dmx cable, make sure whatever you buy is actually using 5 core cable. Because dmx actually uses three cores the majority of cable out there only uses three core cable, which won't work if you want the stereo-ness of the yeti. Not sure which capsule is output on pins 2 and 3, but at worst you could resolder the ends if you don't need stereo.
  2. Like
    anothertom got a reaction from dalekphalm in audio interface   
    Ok, so from what i'm seeing in the manual, you can either use the physical midi port or it will operate as a USB-midi device.
     
    So if you want to use it to control an midi instrument in a DAW then you can just connect it over USB to your computer and it will appear as a midi device. You will need a usb cable with a type B connector for the keyboard and either type A (a traditional USB port) or type C if that's what your computer has.
  3. Informative
    anothertom got a reaction from Dr0y in Advice on speaker feet   
    Spikes are not what you want to use if you are trying to remove vibrations. Spikes couple, due to the very small contact area and very solid contact. Foam, where there is a cushioning interface spread over a larger area, is what you want to remove vibrations.
  4. Like
    anothertom got a reaction from RixzZ in Send digital audio from one PC to another   
    From my point of view, the only thing that's making this complicated is the involvement of linux as the source. I don't use linux and don't really have a device I can reasonably have as a test environment, so i don't really know if what I'm finding is of any use, otherwise I'd have tried some of the tools to see if they work.
  5. Like
    anothertom got a reaction from RixzZ in Send digital audio from one PC to another   
    Look at Icecast or Soundit both free options with varying levels of configuration/functionality. I use soundit, and for the most part works perfectly well, but it does crash occasionally, but only on the receiving device. You could also try pulseaudio.
     
    A one off purchase of Dante via and DVS would be cheaper even in the short term than either of the other options suggested, but wouldn't work over wifi so would need to be on a hard wired network. The other suggestions (source connect and Listento) are subscriptions, not particularly cheap, and are aimed at specific uses very different to what you're trying to do.
     
    Icecast i know has linux builds, not sure about soundit (their website has been down for a few days), Pulse only offers linux support. I don't think either source connect or listento have linux support and dante doesn't have linux versions.
  6. Like
    anothertom got a reaction from RixzZ in Send digital audio from one PC to another   
    From some googling it might be technically possible, but you'd probably go through a few software layers before hitting the network.
     
    @RixzZ have a look at this post using pulseaudio, slightly out of date, but should get you there.
  7. Agree
    anothertom got a reaction from TheGlenlivet in Help! Studio Monitor setup to 2 Computers   
    Nope, shouldn't have any problems switching back and forth so long as it works with both systems. If you set it as the default device in each system, it'll take over from anything else plugged in.
  8. Like
    anothertom got a reaction from Benergy in Multiple Audio Outputs   
    In windows 10 this is no longer the case, the built in sound settings allows routing programs to individual outputs. Settings > Sound > App Volume Device Preferences. You can then route specific inputs and outputs to each program.
  9. Informative
    anothertom got a reaction from Bmoney in MIDI Mixer/Matrix   
    So, you want to take the midi output from any of 3 computers and route it to and of 6 synths. Then take the output from those 6 synths and send them to a single pair of speakers?
     
    There are midi matrixes which allow you to route a number of inputs to a number of output, however these rely on a host device (pc) to configure and manage the routing. For example this 8 channel interface, or this 10 channel interface. Each allows routing any channel to be output from any other channel. (but make sure the device will do exactly what you're trying to do before you buy it). But to change the routing you need it connected to a host device.
     
    For the output from the synths any mixer would be fine, so long as you've got enough channels to handle the number of stereo (or mono) sources you've got.
  10. Like
    anothertom got a reaction from Jurunce in Audio file formats used for playback/recording   
    For recording you want to be going to a lossless format. This allows the best opportunity for post-processing over a lossy format. Due to the real-time nature of recording it's also easiest to go to an uncompressed format (i.e. WAV) over a compressed lossless format (i.e. FLAC).
     
    As for very high sample rates and bit depths, not sure what supports them but at a guess you'll end up with needlessly large files.
  11. Informative
    anothertom got a reaction from Derkoli in How can I fix this tweeter?   
    From what I can see, it's only that the wire going to the driver has been cut? If they were made properly, they'll be different colours, so you can simply solder the cables back together, assuming they're not too brittle to bend.
     
    If you're not able to simply reconnect the existing cables, then you can just run in a new set. As you don't really want to be trying to remove the stubs from the driver (as they look to be glued/resined to the driver) you'll still be connecting to the existing stubs. In this case you'll need to run the new cable back to either the crossover or the input connection (as i'm assuming these aren't active).
     
    Ideally you'll get the polarity right, so it's acting like the other one, otherwise you'll end up with some interesting phase issues.
  12. Informative
    anothertom got a reaction from Dedayog in Subwoofer doesn't connect to reciever   
    Sort of, you can choose which extra 2 channels you have on top of a 5.1 system, but not reroute the LFE (sub channel) to a different output, from what I can see.
    lol...
  13. Like
    anothertom got a reaction from ccm1092 in Connecting Older amplifier to a behringer sound board   
    First make sure that the speakers are properly connected, check the cabling into the speaker terminals and from the back of the receiver. Check that any power sockets being used work (plug a lamp or something like a phone charger into it to check).
     
    For the moment go straight from a phone/MP3 player/laptop into the receiver with a 3.5mm to stereo RCA cable. Use either the "CD" input or the audio channels for any of the AV inputs (for simplicity just use the CD input). Make sure that the volume on the device is somewhere around 80% and if it's a laptop also make sure it's using the correct output.Having made sure the receiver has power and is on,Select the correct input on the receiver (so press the "CD" button on the bottom row, right hand side) and also select either the "stereo" or "Direct" listening mode just above the input selection. You may also need to select the correct speaker outputs (the A/B buttons on the far left, just above the headphone port). Then use the volume knob (far right, big, can't miss it) to control level.
     
    If you don't get any volume out of the speakers, plug a pair of headphones into the receiver to check that signal is getting that far. If it is, but you're still not getting volume, then try a different input to the receiver (not impossible a circuit is dead), and double check each of the steps above.
     
    Once you have that working, it's just a case of putting the mixer between source and receiver. Without using balanced connections, the easiest way would be to have a stereo 3.5mm to twin mono 6.35mm jacks and use the stereo channels on the board (5/6, 7/8, 9/10, 11/12) for up to four stereo inputs simultaneously. The output of the mixer is on two 6.35mm mono jacks, so a straight phono cable (two RCA to two RCA) with RCA to 6.35mm jack adapters will be best.
  14. Like
    anothertom got a reaction from Ajido in Need help shopping for Amp/equipment for book shelf speakers   
    50% is a bit much, as it would make it easier to blow the speaker. I would suggest something more like 10-20%. That said, with low wattage speakers it's more difficult to find specific wattages, so looking for something that is 144w, as for your speakers, you're going to find lots at 150w but nothing specifically 144w.
     
    So long as you're sensible with listening volume, and use proper gain structure (turning up the source before the main output) then you'll be fine.
    That is a receiver, not just an amplifier. While an amplifier will purely have audio inputs and outputs, a receiver will also deal with video, including decoding digital audio, video scaling and switching...
     
    If you're using this with a TV (or a monitor) then hdmi is a good option to keep the audio signal digital as far as possible and to use it with multiple sources (pc, Blu-ray player, cable/satellite box). If you're using a gaming monitor then make sure the receiver support the version of hdmi you're using (e.g. if you need hdmi 2.0 then you'll need a current product, if you don't then the world of used/discontinued products opens up.)
     
    If you want to plug a phone or mp3 player in, then you can have multiple inputs connected at once, just switch between sources. You won't be able to play from multiple sources at once, however.
     
    The receiver you linked would also allow you to expand to a 5.1 system with an active sub, if that's something you might want to do in the future.
     
     
    Cable wise, you can either use banana plugs or save a bit and just use the screw terminals. Doesn't need anything fancy, sort by price and don't buy the cheapest. 14awg is fine, no need for thicker cable.
  15. Like
    anothertom got a reaction from minervx in $100 vs. $250 Audio Interface Comparison   
    I must admit, I completely agree with you.
  16. Agree
    anothertom got a reaction from .Apex. in DAC vs Audio Interfaces/Preamps vs External Sound Cards   
    With such low budget speakers you're best off saving your money until you can afford a meaningful upgrade.
  17. Like
    anothertom got a reaction from SebastianTimmy in Does anyone know what model lavalier mic Linus uses?   
    It's probably a sennheiser ME2, not used it but it's probably a decent mic. An alternative around the same price is the sm11, which is a good mic, but slightly bulkier.
  18. Like
    anothertom got a reaction from Minorika in looking for a noise cancelling microphone   
    Not a thing. A microphone can't discriminate sound by distance.
  19. Informative
    anothertom got a reaction from HanZie82 in Subwoofer vs Transducer   
    There's no replacement for displacement.
     
    The sub will move the air, so that you can hear the sound and a byproduct of that is feeling the sound. The transducer will physically move what you connect it to so that you feel the effect of the sound, but you won't hear the sound because it's not moving air.
     
    The transducer will work for a specific position, i.e. the chair you connect it to, whereas the sub will be effective for the whole room.
  20. Like
    anothertom got a reaction from NotMrTaco in SM7B + Audio Mixer and Cloudlifter   
    You could, yes. It might be worth having a CL1 with any of those interfaces.
     
    Personally what I would suggest (if you're set on a 7b) is probably a Presonus audiobox, and then use something along the lines of voicemeeter for EQ and dynamics. I suggest that over the AG03 as you have direct control over detailed EQ rather than having to use the software for the mixer to alter any settings. You also have the ability to route any other audio you may want to the same output. You keep the ability for direct monitoring (through the audiobox), but you don't need as much physical space as you would with a mixer.
  21. Like
    anothertom got a reaction from Exprima in How to Connect Monitor to DAC?   
    Because a DAC takes a digital input and outputs an analogue signal. A DAC/amp combo is more likely to have an analogue input as well as a digital input.
     
    Seeing as how you've already got a D30 (And presumably a headphone amp as well?) Using an HDMI audio extractor is a better option. You're then using the same signal chain for all devices.
  22. Informative
    anothertom got a reaction from GuNjAX_3030 in Speakers: 'An Ambient-Hissing Noise' (EdifierS1000DB)   
    There could be a few causes for this, a high noise floor either in the output from the sound-card or input to the speaker, mild EMI because you're running an unbalanced analogue connection, EMI within the sound-card, connectors starting to fail.
     
    The easiest solution to this is to use the optical output from your sound-card and the optical input to the speaker. You just need to buy a toslink cable long enough for where you place the speakers.
  23. Agree
    anothertom got a reaction from .Apex. in Audio help   
    @syn2112 @AnthonyFuller  Sorry, I've been looking at the wrong mixer. The MG10XU has a built in effects engine, which is fed from the FX bus (controlled from the knob labelled FX on each channel strip). This goes through the FX engine and returns via the FX return knob next to the master (called 'stereo level'). The FX send output is just a spit from the output of the effects engine.
     
    It's not really worth having both a VT-3 and a mixer. If you wanted the effects from the VT-3 I would suggest an audio interface for the digital conversion. If you use the MG10XU then it has a built in USB interface.
  24. Agree
    anothertom reacted to Ahoy Hoy in Banana plug compatible 5.1 receiver suggestions?   
    The connector only accepts wire or crimped wire. You cant get anything else than a wire to fit. So man up and just cut the end off and crimp the end. There's no such thing as an adapter to a wire.
     
    If you want to keep the original cable you bought just do as I said earlier and get a female banana cable and cut the wire and have that permanently in the speaker. Or modify your amplifier so that it has banana clips but you probably wont do that because if you dont have the skill to cut a cable and add a crimp you definitely cant do something as basic as modifying the output.
  25. Funny
    anothertom got a reaction from Ahoy Hoy in Banana plug compatible 5.1 receiver suggestions?   
    Or you could just cut the banana plugs off and ram the wire in.
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