I often see posts here, there, and everywhere about wanting a "real" camera to upgrade from a smartphone on a limited budget.
For the vast majority of you, I say this: Don't bother. Your smartphone is good enough for most people and most applications.
For the rest of you, here's the deal. It's... complicated. In no particular order:
1) First off, don't buy a point-and-shoot. That'll give you results that are, at best, marginally better than your smartphone. There's the Sony RX-100 line, but that's well over the $300.
2) Forget about buying new. Nothing new in that price range isn't worth it over your smartphone.
3) What's your application? Why do you want a "real" camera? Ask yourself, "What is it about my smartphone that is inadequate?" Examples where having a "real" camera makes sense include: making large prints, shooting in very low light, sports, and wildlife. If you're just posting photos online, then a smartphone will do the job well most of the time.
4) Check the used market. What are you looking for? Any of the following would be alright:
-Canon Rebel T3, T3i, T4, T4i, T5, T5i, SL1, SL2 (these are the names used in North America. Many of these will go by different names in Europe, Japan, and elsewhere). They should come with an 18-55mm lens. Anything lower than a T3 is certainly available, but you're getting pretty old by that point.
-Nikon D3100, D3200, D3300, D3400 D5100, D5200.
-Olympus OM-D E M5
-Sony A5000, 5100, A6000, A6300
(this list is very much non-exhaustive)
5) Read reviews. What did the reviewer like? What did the reviewer not like? If the review has comments, check the comments to see what others like or don't like about the camera.
6) Newer is not necessarily always better. Sometimes, newer models don't offer much improvement over older models.
7) What features are important to you? Things you should consider are:
-autofocus points (more is generally better)
-size and weight of the body and lenses
-sensor size (most cameras in your price range will be APS-C, but Olympus and Panasonic offer Micro FourThirds (MFT). This means that APS-C cameras (like the Nikon, Canon, or Sony) will have sensors that are bigger than MFT. The benefits of MFT are smaller and lighter cameras, but they usually don't perform as well in low-light.
-optical viewfinder vs EVF/backscreen (DSLRs like Canon and Nikon use optical viewfinders, which means there's a mirror that bounces light up to the viewfinder so you are looking through the lens. They generally have fewer autofocus points but, in this price range, may offer faster, more accurate, and more consistent autofocus. Mirrorless cameras let you see what's coming off the sensor and, in this price range, autofocus may be slower, less accurate, or less consistent. DSLRs will also offer "live view" where it will let you see what's coming off the sensor using the back screen. Either way, the live view of what the sensor sees allows you to see your exposure before you take the picture. If you use the optical viewfinder of a DSLR, you'll have to "chimp," (ie, look at the back screen to see how it turned out).
-lens selection (lenses are described using focal length in mm and aperture in 1:x. Focal length describes how "zoomed in" or "zoomed out" you are. For example, 24mm is considered wide, 50mm is considered "standard," and 100mm and on is telephoto. Wide means you are "zoomed out" and can see lots of the scene, but things further away will appear smaller. Telephoto means you are "zoomed in" and can are focused on a much smaller part of the scene. Landscapes typically use wide lengths, portraiture typically use standard focal lengths, and wildlife/sports typically use telephoto (or "longer") focal lengths. Aperture describes the opening at the back of the lens. All lenses can "stop down" their apertures (means less light is let in, but your depth of field (amount of the picture that's in focus) is increased, and can help increase sharpness to an extent) or "open up" their apertures (means more light gets in, but your depth of field decreases, background and foreground will be out of focus (ie, blurry), and may result in a slight loss of image quality. Good lenses for sports and wildlife are super expensive since indoor sporting arenas are usually poorly lit requiring long lenses with big apertures. A big aperture is 1:1.2 (or just f/1.2) whereas a small aperture is 1:16 (or just f/16). The smaller the number (like 1.2) means the bigger the aperture can open up. The larger the number (like 5.6) means it can't open up as much and let in as much light. Portraits are usually shot at wide apertures and landscapes are often shot at smaller apertures. Different lenses for different applications and different levels of image quality.
-video features (if you want to shoot video. Good things to consider are: video autofocus, mic jack, headphone jack, articulating screen, and so on (I don't shoot video)
It is important to know that while some cameras/lenses are better suited to some applications than others, there is no "perfect" camera or lens. A lot of it will come down to what you shoot, how you shoot, your budget, what you value in a camera (ie, what you want vs what you don't want vs what you don't care about), and what you like shooting. I recommend going to a camera shop and spending a few minutes playing around with one.
If you're torn between buying a camera and just using your phone, then you should probably just use your phone.
Repairing is a big maybe dependant on the problem, your skills and resources.
Sounds like you're not willing to ship your board off for months, can you just ship off the cover? (if thats the root problem)
It could just be a software issue so i'd look into that (I know no details about the actual problem)
Or maybe, you could live without rgb on your io plate?
yeah not the best build then, should upgrade the gpu to somthing more like a 2080 to take advantage of that 240hz monitor
Though you're games arent that demanding, its really just up to how much money you want to spend at this point.
Is there a reason for the 120gb SSD? If it's intended to be a boot drive, is there a reason for the 240gb SSD? Also in which case, i'd recommend the 240 as your boot drive anyway. It's relatively limited in capacity, not going to be difficult to fill up.
Do you have another monitor that you plan to mount on the stand?
The power strip/surge protector appears to have a recurring trend of failing ports since February of this year based upon a number of reviews. I've never dealt with Orico, so I don't know their customer service quality.
Although sleeved cables are nice, The SATA cable you've got really isn't necessary as I don't believe the 400c has SSD mounts readily on display anywhere, and even then, they're usually minimally so. Your motherboard comes with four SATA cables as is, and if you need more, a pack of 10 can be had for cheaper than the single cable you're buying.