Okjoek

Question is in the title. Like what's the most safe/secure? I remember a while back yahoo had tons of account details leaked or something, well where am I least likely to have that happen and make sure things are as secure as possible for sending sensitive information?

On AMD the boost isn't limiters to 120 seconds like on intel so as long as it's running cool, Ryzen will boost more and for much longer.

The maximum boost on Intel chips is for an X amount of time and it throttles down to a slightly lower boost state.

Intel CPUs don't really hold the advertised clocks as, at stock ,those clocks are held for 90-120 seconds depending on the board

I started watching Garcia DIY vids like this
and it's painfully clear to me that it's a bit more complex than I thought. If I'm going to get into this stuff I need to start at much smaller scale and ambition of projects to iron out my inexperience. I should try an experiment like just powering an LED bulb or my phone charger I think.
 
The lightbulb in my room's lamp says 9.5W.
My Phone charger uses about 18W I think.
 

Oh wait I'm dumb as shit that wouldn't be able to "power" the keyboard.
 

I'm having trouble finding a reason to upgrade simply because my Ivy Bridge won't die.

Venezuela is just a poor Sweden or "third-world social democracy". The profit motive is still being employed and there has been no workers revolution.
 

 

 
 

not related to software, locked LGA 1155 CPUs can all run 4x higher multiplier if used on motherboards that support overclocking CPUs.

A continuation of: 
 
 
So here's what I did for this iteration of my PC:
1. Installed 2 120mm white LED ring fans by Aigo.
2. My thermaltake PSU was causing my system to crash, it had a faulty 24-pin connector, haven't had a single problem since installing this new EVGA 650GQ
3. Cable managed as best as I possibly could with this much hardware in this compact of a case with limited room behind the motherboard. Cables are just part of the system so I'm not too ashamed that they're a bit visible.
4. Installed a carrying handle to the top of my case. It's attached to the roof as well as an additional sheet of metal I added below to help distribute the carrying weight a little.
5. Installed a FebSmart N600 wifi card because why not?
6. Added an old PCI Creative Audigy 2. Purely aesthetic unless I can find drivers which I have been unsuccessful so far.
7. Installed a multimedia card reader with a USB 3 port to my 3.5'' bay.
8. Installed an old DVD drive I had laying around to a 5.25'' bay.
9. Installed in two of my 5.25'' bays a rack capable of holding several 3.5'' drives and adds a second intake fan to the front of my case in the form of an 80mm fan. (yay more airflow)
10. Added vented expansion slot covers to help aesthetics.

 




 
This system is basically complete. The only way to go forward from here is to simply wait for my system (CPU, MB or RAM) to bite the dust and force me to upgrade because I still don't feel much motivation to do so and I figure the longer I wait the better the cheap used hardware gets that I can upgrade to.
 
I might be willing to upgrade from this hand-me-down RX 580 when Ampere comes out. 
The lighting could be a little more in the center of the case. To fix this I could get an (aforementioned) GPU with some lighting, the only other option is if there are 92mm white LED fans for CPU coolers, but I'm not able to find any.

I already own them.

I'd just get a midrange system. 3700X + 5700XT/2060S. The 2080 TI is 3x the cost for 50% more fps.
Upgrade GPU every other cycle, upgrade cpu every 4 cycles.

If you keep up this train of thought you'll never buy a PC. The next best thing is always on the horizon. Buy the best PC you can right now, and you'll likely be very happy with it for quite a while. I don't think we'll see any more huge performance jumps with our current silicon based PC's.

I kinda liked what they did in Ready Player One where they banned the gaming on Tuesdays and Thursdays.

Not everyone has friends and family some of us are

The method of using the four rail-mounts to attach the keyboard tray to the underside of the desk-top with six screws per fitting is unsound as per your original concern. However, if you were to connect two metal strips the width of the desk-top, (one for each side of a similar type of material as the rail-mountings), to both of the rail-mount points using nuts and bolts. Then you could attach the metal strips with many screws that are not long enough to drive through the wooden desk-top to the under-side of the table. This method will spread the force needed for retaining your keyboard tray across the entire width of the desk, instead of the six per rail-mount and negate your concern of structural integrity!

Maybe cut some 1x2 lumber to fit front to back.  Fasten with screws through the lip of the desk and a small bead of construction adhesive down the length.  Then you can fasten the keyboard tray to the wood.

There are also ones that clamp onto the desk from the front, so you don't have to drill anything 
https://www.amazon.com/Stand-Up-Desk-Store-Retractable/dp/B07K3Y3GTG

Hot air goes up, GPU coolers are also oriented up. If you have ok airflow in general, a PSU sucking air from under the GPU will be competing with it for cold air, not helping it

Bottom PSU layout is done to max out radiator compatiblity.

Only x570 chipset is guaranteed to support Ryzen 3xxx processors.
 
MSI boards with MAX at the end should support Ryzen 3xxx processors, the MAX means bigger BIOS chip and these models were launched after Ryzen 3xxx so they support the Ryzen 3 from start.
 
There's motherboards with BIOS Flashback - these allow you to update bios without processor installed in socket.
You plug usb stick inside a specific usb slot and push a button and 30s - 1 m later the bios is updated.
 
This document lists which motherboards have BIOS flashback (checkmark all the way on the right): https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1d9_E3h8bLp-TXr-0zTJFqqVxdCR9daIVNyMatydkpFA/htmlview?sle=true#gid=639584818
 

I have one of those and can tell you that almost nothing is standard size and anything larger than a small form factor motherboard with a low profile cooler will not fit in there. Even then you would have to cut off the welded in stand offs and weld or glue in new ones because they are a proprietary lay out (too thin of a case to screw them in). All the front IO is dell proprietary, so get ready to pull out the soldering iron and look up pin outs and salvage or buy new connectors. Also you can forget about any dual slot graphics card fitting in there without the side panel off. Not that the questionable PSU in those could power any graphics card because its too low wattage and has no pcie power. it is not great for modding either as its all thin sheet metal riveted (not screwed) together.   

Wait, are we talking about this Aldi?

if you see one of these, push it over. ACAB, even robocops