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About Benergy

  • Title
  • Birthday Jun 29, 1994

Contact Methods

  • Steam
  • Xbox Live
  • Twitch.tv

Profile Information

  • Location
    Northern Ireland
  • Gender
  • Interests
    Scientific advancement, creating software, PC hardware, gaming, music [insert generic waffle here]
  • Occupation
    Software Engineer


  • CPU
  • Motherboard
    Asus Z97 Sabertooth Mark 1
  • RAM
    4x4GB 1866MHz Dominator Platinum DDR3
  • GPU
    XFX 280x Crossfire
  • Case
    Corsair 550D
  • Storage
    256GB 850 Pro SSD, ~10TB in WD Greens
  • PSU
    Corsair AX860
  • Display(s)
    27" AOC IPS 1920*1080, 24" Acer TN 1920*1080
  • Cooling
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70 Cherry MX Blues (Gunmetal, blue backlight)
  • Mouse
    Logitech G400s
  • Sound
    Fiio E10 & ATH-M50s
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro/Ubuntu
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

1,939 profile views
  1. This is usually caused by bad ram - try running memtest86
  2. Two most likely things would be: 1.) Faulty RAM - Try running memtest86 to confirm 2.) Bad GPU driver - Try uninstalling it using DDU in safe mode and installing a fresh driver
  3. I've seen this happen before when the CPU cooler wasn't mounted properly, so the CPU would hit it's thermal limit within a few minutes of booting and do a hard shutoff. Did you put new thermal paste on your CPU cooler? Is it mounted securely?
  4. Any time I've seen this before, the GPU had hardware issues. It could be driver issue though since you just installed a new version - you could try uninstalling it in safe mode with DDU, then reinstalling the previous drivers version to see if the issue persists.
  5. There are different types of Windows licenses, with the main consumer types being 'COA' and 'OEM' licenses. OEM licenses are comparitively cheap, but any change in major hardware components (CPU or motherboard, RAM/GPU are usually OK) will invalidate your license as it thinks you have moved the install to a different machine. These licenses usually come with prebuilt/refurb machines, or are sold by dodgy resellers online (they are only supposed to be sold already installed on machines by Authorised Microsoft partners). COA licenses are the proper ones - they are usually
  6. The most obvious solution would be to get 4 USB DACs You can get cheaper ones than this but you get the idea: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fiio-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ This will rely on each program you use being able to output to a specific device, and not just the Windows default audio output.
  7. Try opening up Power & Sleep settings, then Additional Power settings, then 'Choose what happens when I close the lid'. Is it set to sleep, or hibernate? A workaround for this would be to set it to 'Do nothing' when you close the lid - meaning it will only sleep when you press the power button and will never lock up on a black screen like that.
  8. DDR stands for Double Data Rate. CPU-Z is reporting your Data Rate as 1600MHz. Double of 1600MHz is 3200MHz.
  9. Unless you are using the motherboard 3.5mm jacks for your mic/headphones - motherboard audio jacks can suffer from electrical interference and manifest as a whine. This does not include USB.
  10. It's coil whine from your PSU. Good news is it isn't a problem - your PSU is fine apart from the noise. Bad news is, there isn't any way to fix it other than replace the PSU. It's luck of the draw whether or not a PSU has it or not unfortunately, can also effect GPUs & motherboards.
  11. Check Windows Event Viewer for critical 'Kernel Power' logs and see if they give any more information. Also try running memtest86 to see if your RAM is OK. Other than that, it could be a bad power supply.
  12. I meant your GPU core voltage, (like with CPU) to achieve higher clocks you have to increase the V going to your GPU to make it stable. From your description it does sound like an unstable GPU. Download GPU-Z to double check what the default clocks are for your card, then set them to match that exactly and see if it's stable then.
  13. The fact your are intermittently getting good FPS would imply something is throttling - and since your GPU is the only thing getting hit hard I'd say it's that. It's running cool enough - but you said it's been overclocked - it's probably not getting enough power. Is your FPS stable at stock GPU clocks?
  14. Is it definitely booting the USB drive? Make sure it is at the top of the Boot order in your BIOS settings, above your normal boot drive.
  15. So the fact the GPU never hits 100% would imply it hasn't been given enough work to do, and the issue is somewhere else. 1.) Are the games installed on your SSD or your HDD? If they are on your HDD, the GPU will have to wait on the slow HDD to give it new things to render. 2.) You might have some weird power saving stuff turned on - try this: