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About tarfeef101

  • Title
    Perpetually Procrastinating

Contact Methods

  • Discord
  • Steam
  • Origin
  • PlayStation Network
  • Xbox Live
  • Twitch.tv
  • Heatware

Profile Information

  • Location
    Lower Mainland, B.C, Canada
  • Gender
  • Interests
    Hardware, Gaming, Warframe, Mining, Development, Computer Science, DevOps, Cloud, Automation, Machine Learning
  • Occupation
    DevOps Engineer @ Thrive Health


  • CPU
    i7-7700K @ 5.0 GHz
  • Motherboard
    Asus Maximus VIII Impact
  • RAM
    32 GB Crucial Ballistix Sport @ 3000MHz
  • GPU
    GTX 1080ti
  • Case
    Corsiar 280x Modded Front Panel
  • Storage
    250GB Samsung 850 Evo, Cruical MX 500 2TB, Gigabyte 500GB NVMe
  • PSU
    EVGA Supernova G1 1000W
  • Display(s)
    Dell S2417DG, AOPEN 24HC1QR
  • Cooling
    Custom Watercooling: Mostly AliExpress Stuff, EK GPU Block Though
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70 and/or Logitech G610 w/ Cherry MX Browns
  • Mouse
    Logitech G402
  • Sound
    Audioquest Dragonfly USB DAC
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 + Manjaro Linux

Recent Profile Visitors

3,318 profile views
  1. I play warframe, maybe go mining in minecraft. The former I've played enough that I don't have to focus, the latter is minecraft.
  2. About upgrades to networking gear, though: I would avoid repeaters and consumer stuff generally unless you're getting those fancy mesh kits. If you have a large enough house that one access point isn't enough, I'd get something more business or prosumer focused, at least. Lots of people gush about ubiquiti. I don't use their stuff personally, but if you like it, that's cool. I find TP-Link's EAP access points to work excellently, and be budget friendly. They in my experience have much better handoff behaviour and consistency vs consumer APs and repeaters.
  3. Lol what why are you taking my words out of context? I was summarizing OP's specific situation. Not making sweeping statements about those technologies. Not here to bicker tho so let's just not do that again and move on
  4. Yeah, flashing backwards is almost always supported (there are some weird edge cases with 300 and 400 series boards going through many generations of compatibility, but you should be fine)
  5. Okay you need to be that specific from the outset. What you said before lead me to believe you had the same problems on all protocols. However it seems like LAN is fine, powerline sucks, and wifi is even worse. In that case, consider MoCA adapters instead of powerline, and consider some of the wireless debugging+improvement advice already given (trying to find a less popular channels, use band steering where appropriate, new access points ofc always help, make sure your wireless card is good, etc)
  6. I would rather buy a better cpu cooler than 2 extra fans to replace the fractal ones
  7. if you look up your motherboard, you will see what **socket** it has. then, when you look at coolers, they should list what sockets they are compatible with. you should make sure your motherboard's socket is on that list. that's all there is to it
  8. More fans is good, and nice fans are better than bad fans. However, you will get the most benefit by removing the drive cages and opening the front door. You didn't say where you're from and where you're shopping, so i have no idea what pricing is like there. But there are many fan roundup test articles/videos online which compare tons of fans, and you can use that and cross-reference with prices in your region to find good ones that meet your budget. In Canada, where I am, Arctic F12 and P12 fans are often great value. But ofc, that may be different where you are, so I won't claim to kn
  9. Did you flash a beta BIOS to the board by any chance? I recently had an MSI Z490 board that refused to detect any USB drives after flashing it with a beta BIOS. Flashing it back to a fully supported one resolved the issue. You could be having a similar issue
  10. I mean, if the PSU turns on/off, a single click is not unexpected. If it is constantly clicking, that is a problem (but I couldn't hear that). More importantly, though, what are you expecting to happen when you hit the power button? Is your build finished, and you're expecting it to boot to the BIOS? If so, I suggest looking at the POST code if your motherboard has one, or the debug LEDs if it has those. They should give some indication as to what part of the bootup is failing. If those aren't present on your board, or you're not even getting to the point where they light up, I'd c
  11. It seems fine, I mean, it's lighting up your RAM, which means it is supplying power. What are you expecting to happen that isn't happening? From what I could see and hear, that was totally normal.
  12. Yeah I strongly encourage using that rear space for that other stuff, I think it's much better use of that space. be prepared to use 120mm fans in the front, you may not have to, but custom loop radiators and fittings are often a bit bigger than AIOs, so you may need that little extra clearance you get from using 120s in the front. also you can use the space between the mobo and front for "activities", personally i mounted some SSDs there just to put something nice to fill that space in, but you COULD do a little pump/res there if you wanted to.
  13. no, it's not like there's some big correlation between custom SSIDs (which don't have to be "fancy", whatever that means. and ofc as mentioned, you could choose not to broadcast it at all) and networks being worth penetrating. it is a pro because it indicates you probably changed the default passwords and such, making penetrating your network harder, so bad actors will be likely to target the lower-hanging fruit first
  14. np, good luck with fitting em. on the bottom, it felt like there was a decent amount of space, i wouldn't expect many issues there. at the top, it might be harder to squeeze cables through the top cutouts and such, and ram/vrm heatsink clearance could be a bit of a challenge. also i wouldn't bother with a side fan. what is it going to cool anyways, some drives, cables, and a pump??? not worth the clutter/hassle IMO. I'd rather get a quieter ATX PSU and nice D5 pump in the back rather than make it all cramped and putting in a fan with basically nothing to cool anyways. Plus, the mo
  15. I had this case for a while, and did an itx dual-rad loop in it as well. although, i used 240mm rads, not 280. no promises about clearance and compatibility there, you're on your own. In my case, here's how I handled cooling: removed the front glass. this can be done just with (a lot of) screws, and IMO still looks nice, and dramatically increases airflow did a 240 rad at the bottom for intake did a pair of 240mm fans at the front for intake did a 240 rad at the top for exhaust the PSU-side of the case was just the PSU and pump, no extra fans