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Posts posted by Maxxtraxx

  1. 2 hours ago, lee32uk said:

    The op is here for advice on a pc. Maybe he doesn't know what parts are best suited for his needs. It is easy to go on pcpartpicker and select the most expensive part. Anyone can do that. The fact is we should be giving advice on what is best for the op's needs. If he wants to ignore it and buy a 5950X then that is up to him, but I stand by my comment that it is stupid to spend nearly £900 on a cpu if you are just gaming.


    We don't even know what the op is using the system for, so not sure anyone can suggest a build yet.


    @IAmJuice What is the pc being used for ? 

    Fact is we should be giving the OP advice based upon his needs and wants. Yes he is free to do as he pleases, but calling his decision to go with a 16 core Stupid because it is your opinion is that having a PC that is more powerful than necessary is wrong.


    Stand by your comment... but recognize that it is your opinion and nothing else. So it is your Opinion that that choice is "Stupid". The same "stupid" logic the OP is applying here is applied everyday by you and me and billions of others to a multitude of other life decisions and is not called stupid. Next time you buy anything other than a used compact car, a used low end smartphone, a house with any more space than absolutely necessary, a hamburger that costs more than a Mcdonalds cheeseburger, a beer pricier than a keystone light, a pair of shoes other than from walmart,... think about how "stupid" your decision is.

  2. 12 hours ago, lee32uk said:

    He could also get 128GB Ram, but that doesn't mean he should do it. Spending nearly £900 on a cpu for gaming is just stupid. Of course if he is doing something that can make use of it then that is a different matter. At 1440p there will be no difference between an R5 5600X and R9 5950X in gaming when paired with an RTX 3090. So you are basically paying out an extra £450+ for no gain.

    you can also get to work or anywhere you need in a yugo, why anyone would buy something other than a yugo for work is completely stupid.


    the fact that he wants something with more power and luxury than he plans to use at the moment is completely normal and perfectly fine. please don't call someone's desire stupid if they have worked hard and have the money and desire to get it, he's willing and able to do this because he wants it.


    Go for it dude! you worked hard, it's your money, it's your PC, don't let anyone convince you a 1000$ processor is stupid while most people drive a car and live in a house that has more power and luxury than anyone Needs.

  3. i'm not picking up on any immediate easily diagnosed problems here...


    My personal next step would be swapping out CPU cooler... maybe there's a problem with the cooler... heat pipes were never filled, mounting surface is defective, ect.


    if another cooler performs better, we may have an answer.

  4. does applying gentle but firm pressure to the top of the cooler while testing offer any reduction in Temps? i'm trying to discern if we have a mounting pressure problem... i experienced this with my h100i several years ago.


    also, what kind of core voltage is it using?

  5. Some tests and trials need to be run.


    I have to ask, and i'm not trying to offend but keeping it simple is a good place to start: have you removed the clear protective adhesive sticker from the bottom of the cooler?

    Looks like this: 


    I like that you've tried reseating the cooler, How does the Thermal paste spread look? after removing the cooler, should look something like this. Nice, thin, well distributed, not overflowing.



    What voltages is it applying to the CPU?

    Have you tried something that isn't prime 95 to stress test? prime 95 small ffts is not always considered a real world test because it is crazy intense and usually much more intense than any use you'll have.

  6. this is a painful question to be asking right now... i've always been a big advocate for the USED gpu market, however even used GPU's are way above value. I can't honestly recommend anything other than 1 of the following: buy what you want if you can find it and pay a lot, buy what you can afford which may be disappointing, or buy what will get you by for the next 6-12 months to then get what you want.

  7. Welcome to PC building!


    I've done a few and I'll throw some recommendations your way that I would do were it my PC build.


    1: Get 4 sticks of ram, Ryzen CPUs love ram speed and actually it appears they like having 4 sticks... to quote Gamers Nexus recent video: Here


    "on previous AMD platforms; in fact, running 2 sticks of RAM was sometimes better because it'd be easier to stabilize the tighter timings and higher frequencies than running 4 sticks of RAM. Now, with Zen 3 and the AMD Ryzen 9 5950X, R9 5900X, R7 5800X, and Ryzen 5 5600X, it's become clear that 2x8GB vs. 4x8GB can impact performance"


    2: Storage: the 970 evo NVME is great. given the price of storage relative to your budget. i would personally ditch the 4tb HDD and get more NVME storage, you didn't specify exactly why you need 4tb of storage but if it is for gaming or even general computing with large files... IMO high speed NVME storage would be much preferable.


    3: Full atx cases are GIANT, I love an atx case that fits everything I want, offers AIO rad support and does so in the smallest package possible, MY current case is: Fractal Design Meshify C I love it, it offers great cooling... it will not however fit a 360 radiator. I would recommend investigating whether a 360 rad will give you the amount of improvement that you really want versus a 240 or 280 radiator... from what i've seen there's not much difference I'll put an image at the bottom showing what i mean.


    4: 3080 vs 3090: some would possibly argue that 10GB Vram may not be enough in the coming years but IMO for the price difference the 3080 is 90% of the performance at 60% of the price. as to the Vram not being enough... in the coming years it will only force you to turn down certain graphical settings that don't affect image quality as much as just reduce total vram usage... so it's your call.


    5: which motherboard? I recommend checking out Actually Hardcore Overclocking's thoughts on motherboard quality: Here and Gamers Nexus: Here



  8. Help us all. 


    Everyone Likes to beat on the Hyper 212/evo, its a great cooler and for the price is awesome... sure it is a FEW degrees off the nocuta and dark rock but it's... Half?(maybe) the price. If money is a concern and you're not overclocking more than midly (which should be the case with any of these coolers), the 212 is the performance per dollar winner. If you want the best performance... IMO get a bigger tower cooler for money similar to the NH-U12S. if you can fit these coolers you can probably fit a much larger cooler in the same space like a NH-D15.


    i'll throw some tests up here, you can go find your own if you like, we all have opinions, many are crap... but they're ours none the less.


    here's some charts since I haven't seen any to go along with opinions yet.



    Hyper 212 is 2.6C warmer than the dark rock and $24.95 less dough.


    Hyper 212 is 5C warmer than the nh-u12s and $35(Half) less.

  9. For example, from the same website this card HERE.

    This card uses an internally exhausted cooler with a much larger heat sink for potentially better cooling. it does exhaust the heat inside the case so you may need more fans or ventilation to keep the rest of the case cool but it will allow for more overclocking and be quieter.


    The card that you linked is fine however.

    It will produce more noise but it has the benefit of not pushing all of the hot exhaust air into the case and instead pushes it out the back of the card. It will work fine but these "Blower" style cards usually run hotter and have lower clockspeeds as a result. BUT they do not heat up the inside of the case if you have limited airflow or do not desire to add additional airflow/fans.


    Just a thought. Good work gathing all the information you needed to make an informed decision!

  10. It appears that you're all set to go ahead and get the card. according to the EVGA product page HERE that PSU (EVGA 600 BQ)has 2 8pin pcie cables available.


    Congrats! post again when you get the card installed and up running and tested, we'd like to see the finished product and hear how the install went and what you think of the upgrade.


    One final thought. If that's the card you want, then go for it! But there are other options with better coolers for likely a similar price that you may want to consider.

  11. 4 hours ago, MadocJ said:

    Hi is there another normal place for it to tell me as you can't remove the back panel of mine, I'll send a picture if it helps.

    The "back panel" is the side opposite of the panel you removed to see the motherboard, it must be removable because you can see the power cables that are run behind the motherboard. the back panel is not the rear of the machine where the power, usb, and video cables plug in but is instead the panel behind the motherboard.

  12. Hmm, not what we're after. 
    On the opposite side of the case from the side panel that you removed to photograph the motherboard is another panel. remove that "back" panel and you'll have better visibility of the PSU, the PSU information sticker might be visible with the removal of the back panel.


    The image here shows the PSU information sticker on the side of the PSU. In this case, indicating a 650W psu along with some power rail information.


    unfortunately unless you know the make and model of the PSU there is no other way of telling the Wattage without finding the information sticker on the PSU itself.


    if the sticker is not visible after removing the back panel you may need to remove the 4 screws that hold the PSU in the case, these screws are visible in the two above images, with those removed the psu can be gently moved and reoriented to find a wattage indication.


  13. I'm seeing PSU recommendations for a 2080super of around 550w minimum with a recommendation of 600-650.

    So if your PSU hits these marks you should be all set.

    if it's under powered it may still work if it has the connectors but you risk overdrawing the PSU which could cause system shutdowns/instability or potentially trip safety features in the PSU or potentially cause it to catch fire in a rare worst case scenario.

  14. PCIe connector: 6+2pin, when the 6 and 2 are combined they can be plugged into an 8 pin power connector, the 6pin without the +2 pugged in is the second connector you need, it may or may not have the additional 2pin hanging off the side.


    in total you need 1 8pin(6+2pin works) and 1 6pin PCIe connectors available.


  15. yes, that card will fit. your current card takes up 2 vertical slots as the new card will and there is plenty of clearance for card length inside the case.


    the final questions are:


    does your power supply have enough wattage to meet the new card's needs.


    does the power supply have PCIe power cables to match: one 8 pin connector and one six pin connector.


    from the picture i can see that the cable currently plugged into the card is a 6+2 pin cable(so an 8 pin), so verify that you have another 6pin PCIE connector available to power the new card and you should be mostly ready to go.