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About 227167_1454181677

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  1. Sorry that took a while to respond. That took a while to test. Conclusion though, no change. Attempted Freesync in basic mode (Monitor settings) Attempted Freesync in Extended mode (Monitor settings) paired both of the above with variable refresh rate enabled in Windows. paired both of the above with variable refresh disabled in Windows. Attempted turning off "Freesync Pro" in the Radeon software itself. Attempted disabling Freesync all together in Radeon Software, Windows, and monitor settings... And I get the dreaded hitch... I wish I had an Nvidia Card to compare with.
  2. Cancel that. For whatever reason, I wasn't able to change it when typing in "Edit power plan" in the search bar, but I was able to change it simply by navigating to it via the classic control panel. >.>. Okay! Testing now.
  3. Hmm, do you by chance know if I need a registered copy of Windows 10 in order to set it? I see the option in the dropdown menu, but I can't actually hit apply and I can't seem to find an answer online either >.>
  4. Good catch! I forgot to change that back after re-install. It's currently balanced. I will update in 20-30 minutes, but I don't have high hopes!
  5. I use Radeon Software (AMD's version of Geforce Experience). Am running the latest driver, 20.11.2
  6. ... I want to say yes, simply because I reinstalled Windows last night and wiped everything clean as it was time to start fresh again, and the issue was still present prior to me wiping and reinstalling everything. Oh, and just putting this here because more information. My BF also has the exact same card, and he also gets the CW low framerate I mentioned, so I know at least that isn't due to corrupt drivers. He doesn't play GTA though, so haven't done that on his system...
  7. I don't want to say I'm regretting my purchase due to how rough this market is right now, but I'm coming from an Nvidia card and I'm noticing quite a few weird behaviors in comparison. The main issue that's driving me crazy right now is in GTAV. The game will be playing great at over 100 FPS (Story mode) and suddenly performance will tank for around half a second. It looks as if the entire screen is frozen for a fraction of a second and then everything resumes as normal. This happens once every 2 or 3 minutes I'd say and I'm pulling my hair out trying to diagnose as I don't remember this
  8. It's a Hydra 26 HD. It sells for over 300 new. I don't believe I"ll need to solder. I can just be more careful with glue next time around as pushing down firmly with tweezers did allow the button to work.
  9. I know literally 0 about PCB stuff. I recently had a button snap off of a PCB on an aquarium light. I discovered if I press down on it hard enough, it still makes contact and the switch / button worked... Well I tried to glue it down, and a tiny amount got inside the button and now it won't press. Please! Can you please link me to where I can buy a replacement for this! It has 1 prong on either side and it has 3 metal contact points. Here is the switch, and the PCB https://imgur.com/EY8PDNi https://imgur.com/poQYtnh https://imgur.com/rorKJCV https://imgur.com/ynMfuhF
  10. Thanks for the input, Jurrunio. For clarification, this is the mobo. It states it supports 3600mhz OCd... but again, I have no idea if that's realistic or a huge diceroll, you know? https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/ROG-STRIX-X370-I-GAMING/specifications/
  11. If one were to pair a Ryzen 3000 chip with an X370 MOBO, could one expect to achieve 3600 frequency? I've read many posts discussing limitations of first generation Ryzen and most user unable to go beyond 3200mhz or so. Is this due to the first gen CPUs or the MOBOs themselves? Yes, I saw another user on these forums ask a similar question, but they only discussed 3200mhz. Anybody have knowledge / personal experience they could drop? Thanks for the help as always, guys.
  12. Actually, after taking a closer look, I think I understand... The back of the PSU actually has 28 pins for the 24 pin... The top part on the left is a standard 24 pin layout, the two images below that belong to the PSU and the extra 4 pins will split off from wires of the same type ... Got it... Sorry... I'd close this thread if I knew how, but I don't see an option. If anybody would like to throw in any tips / advice before I start in a few weeks, I'm all ears! Night, everyone.
  13. Hello, everyone! After wrestling with extensions for years, I've finally decided to create my own PSU cables. I've purchased all tools required, but I'm now learning pins aren't standardized on the PSU side. I've found my correct pinout for my model of PSU, but I'm slightly confused as to why I'm needing to split my wires. Below is an image showing each pin has a place, but simply in a new location. Can somebody please explain to me why four splits are needed for EVGA G-2 / G-3 PSUs? Again, it appears only the locations change...
  14. Just giving the conclusion to this story, I reapplied some Thermal Grizzly and my temps have now dropped 20c. However, I did discover I was putting on one way too much initially. My system actually refused to even put out a signal to my monitor for the first two applications. Each time I took off the IHS, I'd see little traces of liquid metal around the chips protruding around the die (4790k doesn't look like the picture above at all. There's actually tiny little chips here and there). Anyways, I cleaned it all off twice, and on the third application, applied it -very- gingerly and it went wit
  15. Thank you for the advice, Science. Admittedly, I didn't apply liquid metal under the IHS. I only applied it to the die as it being conductive scares the shit out of me. I will try liquid metal one more time along with silicone. I will get back to you with the results. Thanks for the insight!