rickeo

@SchredI want to reiterate that you really should stop whatever you're doing and absolutely do NOT follow any unsigning procedure to install some unknown driver from a shady service. 
 
If you were having problems before, you will have many, many more if you go through with that.
 
The ONLY place you should download a driver for that AMD GPU is here:
 
https://www.amd.com/en/support
 
Failing that in some weird situations, the laptop manufacturers support page. No where else.

It sounds like whatever you're trying to install is a recipe for more problems. You should be getting your driver from AMD directly and nowhere else.  What is the GPU model exactly?

How is this post helpful?
 
Anyone considering spending that much on a GPU will have done their own research to work out whether it's worth it for them or not, and they probably won't be basing their results on a single benchmark from an unknown source.

Note that there is more the GoXLR line than being just a "dumb" audio interface for lack of a better term. It's software package, multiple USB audio devices and virtual cables options makes it significantly more powerful for a streaming/content creation standpoint than any standard mixer. 
 
Those features are why that line is so popular. 

That M.2 card is E Key (more specifically A+E) Not very common.
 
https://www.delock.de/infothek/M.2/M.2_e.html
 

 

That M.2 card is E Key (more specifically A+E) Not very common.
 
https://www.delock.de/infothek/M.2/M.2_e.html
 

 

If you like realistic sub movies, check out Gray Lady Down. My former sub buddies mostly agree it's the best sub movie (in terms of what life on a sub is like) out there.
 
Also, check out the 'Sub brief' youtube channel. He tries pretty hard to get you to use his patreon, but he has enough free content on youtube to be interesting. the 10 minute 'sub brief' videos are all previews/snapshots. Stick to the ones that are an hour long for the full monty.
 
As for my favorite movie? The Matrix. The first one. I watched the Lobby scene over 1000 times (no, seriously, actually over 1000. Every day for breakfast for 3+ years). "I know Kung fu", the train fight with agent smith...so.many.excellent.scenes! Let's not forget the helicopter minigun. (let's also comment on how Hollywood likes making miniguns sound like reciprocating machine guns. I know brrrrrt is less intimidating, but meh)

The Hunt for Red October. 
 
I don't know why. I'm just a sucker for Cold War, submarines, military stuff, Sean Connery and Alec Baldwin. 

You cant.
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/store/b/windows?activetab=tab%3ashopwindows10

If you want to use Windows Remote Desktop, the computer you are remoting into had to be W10 Pro I though, but I could be wrong.
 
There are of course always alternatives you can use, including Chrome Remote Desktop and Team Viewer which will work on Windows 10 Home too.

Dell XPS

sometimes the software for your mouse (i.e. Razer Synpapsy, Logitech GHUB, etc.) allows for this to be done.
if your mouse doesn't have such software, you could use AutoHotKey for it. do keep in mind some games see AHK as a cheating program though, because of how deep it is in your system.

It should be possible with iCUE: https://help.corsair.com/hc/en-us/articles/360027751872-Assigning-Mouse-Buttons-with-iCUE
Yes, AutoHotKey which I mentioned before:

Ok, GSync (which I've been using on a PG348Q since 2017) is pretty great. You can set the monitor to 165Hz, then if the game is running at 165FPS or below, GSync will be active. (There is a bottom limit to how low but its low enough that if you're down there you have bigger problems).
 
Now, its pretty common practice with GSync panels to limit your frames in game or using the new options in the Nvidia Control Panel so your game is always in GSync which smooths everything out and eliminates any screen tearing.
 
Regarding V-Sync, you'll get a lot of mixed opinions on this one when it comes to how it interacts with GSync.
 
I can just tell you want my experience has been using a true GSync panel for the last 4 years every day. I leave V-Sync off and cap my frames to 1-2FPS under my displays maximum refresh rate (in my instance, that's 98FPS for my 100Hz panel) and things are buttery smooth all the time as this keeps GSync always active.
 
The discrepancies in your refresh rate being off by one, I wouldn't worry too much about that? Maybe someone else can chime in.

This capability is now directly in the Nvidia Control Panel. So happy about that.

Ok, GSync (which I've been using on a PG348Q since 2017) is pretty great. You can set the monitor to 165Hz, then if the game is running at 165FPS or below, GSync will be active. (There is a bottom limit to how low but its low enough that if you're down there you have bigger problems).
 
Now, its pretty common practice with GSync panels to limit your frames in game or using the new options in the Nvidia Control Panel so your game is always in GSync which smooths everything out and eliminates any screen tearing.
 
Regarding V-Sync, you'll get a lot of mixed opinions on this one when it comes to how it interacts with GSync.
 
I can just tell you want my experience has been using a true GSync panel for the last 4 years every day. I leave V-Sync off and cap my frames to 1-2FPS under my displays maximum refresh rate (in my instance, that's 98FPS for my 100Hz panel) and things are buttery smooth all the time as this keeps GSync always active.
 
The discrepancies in your refresh rate being off by one, I wouldn't worry too much about that? Maybe someone else can chime in.

The only way you're getting a founders edition card, at least in the US, is be in a stock tracking discord on a Tuesday or Friday and be fast as lightning with the in stock alerts. Generally those servers (i'm in a large one) start going nuts during Best Buy drops and you're fighting thousands of other people for the same thing.
 
On the 2/9 drop I scored a 3070 FE for a buddy and the one prior my personal 3090 FE. (I wanted a 3080 FE but it wasn't happening and the 3090 was just there... don't judge me i had a weak moment)

can you link the list?
 

Cases with tempered glass is so commonplace these days, your concerns are just not something people worry about. Yes, things can break.. anything can break. 
 
It's just not a huge widespread issue and its not affecting people's buying habits. 

Yes, there are many laptop style PSU's including ones for literal laptops you could use. It all depends on your power requirements. 
 
Also there is this option with here:
https://hdplex.com/hdplex-internal-400w-ac-dc-adapter-with-active-pfc-and-19vdc-output.html
and this
https://hdplex.com/hdplex-400w-hi-fi-dc-atx-power-supply-16v-24v-wide-range-voltage-input.html
 
You can see it in use here: 
 
 

Your front panel I/O is likely a combo headphone/mic jack then. Did your headset come with a splitter? If so you can use it to separate the headphone and speaker portion of your headset and then try plugging it into the back I/O to see if the issue still exists. 

At this point, you need to start narrowing things down. First, unplug any absolutely unnecessary USB devices for this troubleshooting time period.  Next, I would assess and hopefully trim down what applications are setup to start at boot. These are found in the Startup tab of the Task Manager. You'll need to reboot and get into Task Manager to find it. Right Click and and hit Disable on anything that you don't find absolutely necessary, at least for this troubleshooting phase. (you can always enable them later).
 
Reboot again. Open Event Viewer (just hit the windows key and start typing it)  This is essentially a log view app for Windows. Anything and everything that Windows is doing in the background is being logged, most importantly of which is errors. 
 
On the left hand column, you'll want to expand Windows Logs then click System. Warnings and Errors are worth looking at to see if they say anything obvious. 
 
 
If this doesn't really get you anywhere, a Safe Mode boot then just leave the PC running for a bit might tell us a lot. If you don't have this issue in safe mode, its something either done to Windows or installed on or in it that's causing the problem. 

rtings is the source for reviews and these are their picks right now. 
 
https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/best/by-features/ultrawide
 
I've had my PG348Q since 2017 and the only model I'd currently replace it with is the 38" Alienware, however its ~$1300USD.

It seems to have stopped, thank you! 🙂

Enjoy https://www.google.com/search?q=gpu+support+figurine&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwjQk_Hmw-7uAhUqneAKHRO6DgQQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=gpu+support+figurine&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzICCAA6BggAEAgQHjoECAAQGFCRT1iWWGD2WGgAcAB4AIABQogB6gOSAQE4mAEAoAEBqgELZ3dzLXdpei1pbWfAAQE&sclient=img&ei=K8srYJDSDaq6ggeT9Log&bih=1787&biw=1080&rlz=1C1GCEU_enUS819US820