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Speaker1264

Member
  • Content Count

    1,024
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About Speaker1264

  • Title
    Veteran

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

System

  • CPU
    Intel i5-3570k
  • Motherboard
    Asus P8Z77-V PRO
  • RAM
    16GB SAMSUNG MV-3V4G3D/US
  • GPU
    Asus GTX660 TI-DC2O-2GD5
  • Case
    Corsair 600T White Graphite
  • Storage
    128GB Crucial M4 + 1TB Western Digital WD1002FAEX
  • PSU
    Corsair Professional Series Gold AX750
  • Display(s)
    Asus VS247H-P
  • Cooling
    Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BL
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G15
  • Mouse
    Logitech G5
  • Sound
    Logitech G930
  • Operating System
    Windows 8.1 64-bit
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

1,420 profile views
  1. The Threadripper 1950x is less than a thousand dollars.
  2. Dunno, I guess it's just easier to clamp it back into the socket maybe, or so that they can sell it used later without having to worry about the buyer making a claim that it is defective or something. I personally wouldn't add the adhesive back, because it creates additional gap between the cpu and die and the IHS, which may negate some of the benefits of delidding. You shouldn't be worried about having to reapply it later, though. The liquid metal never goes bad from what I've seen.
  3. Neither is really necessary. And if you don't want to risk shorting you can apply electrical tape over the capacitors under the IHS.
  4. The gtx 1060 is not a very hot card. It probably wouldn't be worth liquid cooling. As for the CPU, what are you currently using to cool it? You are more likely bottlenecked by the crappy thermal paste between the cpu die and the integrated heat spreader. You would probably see a more noticeable temperature reduction by delidding, and using some kind of liquid metal thermal compound between the cpu die and the IHS. I also think a better option would be simply going for an AIO cooler rather than a custom loop. But, if you are dead set on it, generally speaking you want the largest radiator
  5. I'm not sure this is even a coherent sentence. Are you saying the 1700 is a bottleneck, are you saying the 1060 will be the bottleneck, or did you mean 1080, as in he won't be able to play at higher than 1080 resolution for gaming? He never mentioned the 1600.
  6. You could go for a cheaper motherboard, or cheaper ssd, but the budget is kind of low for all said tasks. I would try saving up a little more cash. The only reason for the m.2 ssd is because I've heard from people that it makes scrubbing through video very fast. If he's doing a lot of video editing work then he will probably like to have that. He could also downgrade to the 250GB version if he wants to save some cash. That's not really a choice I can make for him. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($197.9
  7. $1000 is a little low budget for all the tasks described. I would at minimum get an R7 1700, 32 GB of ram, and a 500 GB m.2 SSD. Right there alone is like 75% of your budget. Also what games and resolutions is he playing games on? Does he want 4k 60fps or 1440p 144fps at ultra settings? In that case he would need something like a 1080 Ti as well, which puts the budget already at $1500 without PSU, case, and motherboard.
  8. Wait 4 more days for Ryzen 3. For an extra $30 bucks you get twice as many cores, overclocking, and a much better upgrade path down the line with Zen 2 and Zen 3 processors supporting AM4. Here is my cheapo build with filters. Right now it shows the 1400, but will change to the 1200 once it is available. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/V9JqzM
  9. Yeah, that's what it costs in the US too. Just wait for it to go on sale, unless you need it right now.
  10. They are both really good. I would personally try to get the g900. I was able to get mine for $75 during black friday and I prefer it over the g502. Wireless is just unbeatable.
  11. That's the wraith spire, but still the wraith spire is a 95 watt TDP cooler cooling a 95 watt TDP chip, versus the stealth which is a 65 watt TDP cooler cooling the 65 watt TDP chips, so the performance should be pretty much equivalent. It is good enough to cool the chip as well as to get a pretty good overclock. If you want something better than I would highly recommend the Cryorig H7.
  12. The temps seem right to me. Tightening your waterblock won't do anything. The reason your CPU is hot is because of the crappy toothpaste Intel uses between the CPU die and the integrated heat spreader. If you delid it and use some liquid metal you would probably see temps drop by 20C on the CPU. Also, yeah, your voltage seems really high for 4.5GHz. I would think 1.3v or lower should be stable with 4.5GHz, which would also help reduce temps. Full loop cooling doesn't usually change CPU temps that much, especially if you are already using a 240mm AIO. The major benefit is GPU temps. Don
  13. How about the blue snowball ice? Pretty popular for only $50. https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Snowball-iCE-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B014PYGTUQ/ref=sr_1_12?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1499328992&sr=1-12&keywords=Cardioid+Condenser+Microphone
  14. The best kits of ram for Ryzen tend to 3200 MHz with Cas 14 or better. These tend to be Samsung B-die which is able to reach the highest clocks on Ryzen Pcpartpicker filtered list: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/memory/#s=403200&Z=16384002&L=0,140 Here's a good post on reddit:
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