Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Virtual01

  1. 5 minutes ago, Tyrm said:

    Could it be the pcie slot? That would allow the gpu to spin its fans, but without getting any video input.


    I only say this because I also currently have this issue, except for me the gpu is dead as is the pcie slot.

    Good call, didn't think of that. I think I will try to RMA the mobo and see what happens. I think it is either the PCI-E slot or the RAM slots.

  2. 6 minutes ago, Get Booda said:

    So it isn't correctly POSTing, and I believe you are onto something about the ram. If you have multiple sticks of it try using only one and different slots. This has been the solution most of the time when my computers have acted like this.

    Unfortunately I have already tried rotating the RAM. None of the combinations work. Either both sticks are dead, or something else is at fault.

  3. Recently assembled a new Ryzen system but upon powering on... nothing happens. All the fans are spinning, components are heating up, but nothing appears on screen as if the monitor is not receiving any signal from the GPU. I did pop the GPU into another computer and it definitely works. If I recall, GPUs will still provide (crappy) video even without drivers right?


    Not sure what the problem could be since I have no way to test the other components. The speaker is no help either as it does not beep at all when I power on the computer so I have basically nothing to go on. Admittedly the RAM and MOBO are pretty cheap and I wouldn't be completely shocked if they ended up being faulty, but I don't really want to play the RMA guessing game. I need some tips to help diagnose my problem before I send something in for RMA.


    Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

  4. 1 minute ago, iKnoGames said:

    No the tension should be virtuall the same as intel's.

    That's gotta be it then. The arm basically falls into place it's so flimsy. I'll have to RMA the board and get a new one. I think the CPU is making some sort of connection though because it does warm up, but I guess it's not enough.

  5. 4 minutes ago, iKnoGames said:

    It would boot, yes, and would also give you a message. If nothing is displaying at all I would suggest looking at the connections between the monitor and PC. Work your way from the easier fixes first and make sure they aren't the problem before reseating CPUs and checking for RAM compatibility and the harder stuff.

    I can swap the GPU into my other PC but I don't think that's the problem. I have a suspicion that the CPU slot is defective. It seems that after I take the CPU out and re-clamp it down I get further in the boot process. The computer will actually produce beeps sometimes. I think the tension arm is possibly too weak, it takes almost no effort to close it, but I really have no experience with AMD boards. Is it supposed to be that easy?

  6. 4 minutes ago, iKnoGames said:

    Does it show anything on screen at all? If so what? Try checking to make sure every data cables are connected and power cables for all hard drives. Also make sure the video output you are using is coming out of the GPU.

    The computer should boot even with no drive, right? I unplugged it to eliminate as many variables as I could.

  7. Building a budget PC for my wife. Upon completion of the build I turned it on and... nothing. The machine will not post. I am not sure what is wrong because the speaker is not making any beeps, and everything appears to be working. All fans are spinning, lights are on, keyboard is detected, etc etc. What could the culprit be? Unfortunately I don't have the luxury of being able to test each individual part because my PC is from the DDR3 era so basically nothing is compatible. The only things I could conceivably test are the GPU and power supply, which I do not think are the problem.


    Has anyone experienced this before? I'm at a total loss. Could the motherboard be the problem even though it appears everything is getting power? Maybe the RAM is bad?


    It has a Ryzen 1300x with an RX 560 gpu and 8gb of RAM. 450W PSU, 128GB M.2 SSD, 1TB HDD.


    Any tips are appreciated.


    EDIT: I Forgot to add that things are getting warm which leads me to believe that power is being delivered and no part is cold and dead.

  8. I recently moved and the only ISP available in my area is Optimum. So of course the modem I own doesn't work, and I don't want to get charged $10 a month to use their ancient technology.


    Any recommendations for a solid modem/router combo that will work with Optimum? Don't need anything excessive, my apartment is about 800 square feet and I pay for a 100mbps connection.


    Any help is appreciated!

  9. 2 minutes ago, cox1000 said:

    I heard that the surface book had a pretty good touchpad, but those things are glued together to a greater degree than modern MacBooks are. Other than that, as far as I'm aware the XPS-13, or 15, are next in line for the trackpad crown. It's worth remembering though, you won't get the same experience as on the macbook, partially because of the way windows handles user input devices and their drivers. It's really really hard to get the software and hardware right when it comes to trackpads. I would love to see a non-apple laptop with an equally amazing trackpad, but I have yet to come across one. As a result, I'm using a MacBook Pro running linux, and occasionally macOS. I think Dell and Microsoft are close to catching up on the trackpad quality, but from what I've tried, they're not there yet. 

    To me, the Surface Book falls into the same "obviously overpriced" category that the Macbook itself falls into, so that's out (I would buy a Surface Laptop if it didn't have fucking Windows 10 S though...). I would consider an XPS more carefully if I didn't work at Best Buy and see it get trashed in almost zero time. It just didn't hold up AT ALL to the customer abuse while other much cheaper laptops did. The thing was out of order more than it was working. I know it's not a typical usage scenario but it was still off-putting to see the premium of premium devices fail so easily.

  10. I had a chance to try out my friends 2017 Macbook Pro and I was floored by the user experience, in particular the incredible touchpad that it offers which is frankly leagues ahead of anything else I've ever used. I didn't really care for the absolutely minimal keyboard, but I got used to it nonetheless. The nice touchpad removes the need for an external mouse IMO, which is a big plus for portability. However, I refuse to support Apple by buying one so I am looking for a comparably high-end Windows laptop instead. It will be for use at home but will be used for work (mainly by my wife), web browsing and netflix-ing, and hopefully light gaming if I can find one with a dedicated GPU.


    Here is what I'm looking for, broken down into wants and needs:


    Has to have:

    13 or 14 inch screen size or 15.6 with ultra thin bezels

    Exceptional touchpad (smooth feel, minimal travel distance when pressed, not mushy, preferably large)

    256GB SSD (bonus if user-upgradeable)

    8GB RAM with ability to upgrade to 16. 16GB stock is ideal.


    Would like to have:

    Quad-core CPU

    Higher than 1080p resolution

    IPS display (or better)

    Dedicated GPU for light gaming (1050 is fine)

    One-hand open

    Decent speakers

    Good cooling and low noise is always nice


    I realize that my needs will land me in one of two categories: "Thin n light" ultrabooks, or "low end" gaming laptops. Honestly I would prefer the former because I appreciate the portability and premium feel of ultrabooks. Gaming laptops are crowded with extraneous features, are heavy and clunky, full of obnoxious branding, and usually feature a 1080p display and a less than ideal touchpad. However I am also aware that ultrabook configurations with a DGPU usually push the price up at least a few hundred dollars, if it is even available. Again, I would only ever use this computer for light gaming (free to play stuff, emulators, older games), I have a desktop rig to handle everything else.


    Any recommendations are appreciated. Feel free to scrape the bottom of the barrel, I have no brand loyalty and am open to pretty much anything. Price-wise I'm prepared to spend at least 1500 with an upper limit around 2000, but I'm not totally inflexible.


  11. Wow thanks for the detailed response.


    I see now why read speed doesn't matter if the computer is peaking at 85 MB/s, a speed which any SSD will handily crush. Having a faster CPU cut down on time also aligns with your explanation that a lot of processing is going on.


    It seems though that the biggest bottleneck is the OS itself. I'd really like to see a load time comparison between Windows 10, OSX, Chrome OS, and some sort of Linux build that was customized for a fast boot.

  12. 52 minutes ago, M.Yurizaki said:

    The unused slots.


    Any thing you have not in use and not explicitly disabled, the computer will still attempt to enumerate the port/slot/whatever for a device.

    So basically just get a MOBO with a good POST time, streamline my BIOS, and be on my way?


    Can you elaborate at all on the diminishing returns thing? Whats the technical reason why a drive 3 or 4 times faster than normal doesn't make a difference in boot time?

  13. 5 minutes ago, M.Yurizaki said:

    From my experience, most of my boot time is spent in POST. So configuring your BIOS/UEFI to disable a bunch of unneeded peripherals and slots (if that's possible) will cut back on that.


    However, regarding storage drives, OS loading/booting is both CPU and storage reliant, and the combination of the two makes diminishing returns hit hard. My NVMe SSD in my desktop does not boot the computer faster than my SATA SSD in my laptop.

    What do you mean by slots? I don't really know what else there is, besides the GPU, that I could disable. And clearly I can't disable the GPU because then I'd have sick boot times, but a black screen.

  14. Hey all,


    I've been kind of out of the loop since I built my PC about a year and a half ago, but I think by the end of this year it will be time to upgrade for me (Volta, Vega, and Ryzen should be out or at least have confirmed specs by then). Of course I want my games to run well and all of that good stuff, but I have another important goal in mind.


    I want my boot time to be fast as shit, and I want to know how to accomplish this. Keep in mind this will be cold boot time, as I turn off fast boot in windows because I don't like it.


    Clearly the first step to accomplishing this is to use an NVME PCIE SSD, preferably m.2 drive that supports up to x4. But I have some other questions to go along with it as that is only the first step.



    First of all, will it be worth it to use a RAID 0 setup? Two fast NVME drives in RAID 0 would act as one really fast drive right? Though I'm not sure how or if this will affect my boot time, or by how much.


    Second, is there any emerging tech that I should wait for? Something better than NVME? I know PCIE 4.0 isn't far off. Could that make a difference?


    Third, what else should I consider? Would RAM/CPU frequency impact anything? CPU Cache? Cache of the drive itself? More RAM? I plan to use some sort of i7 or high end Ryzen CPU with 16 or 24gb of RAM.


    Last, clearly motherboard choice is key here. I read somewhere that different MOBOs can have varying POST times, so obviously a MOBO with a fast POST time is ideal. But what other features should I look for? I was looking around and a PLX chip seems to be a cool thing to have since, if I'm understanding correctly, it will allow me to use a 4x SSD as well as a 16x GPU at the same time (and possibly even more), even with a 16 lane CPU.



    tl;dr: I want to create the perfect storm in my PC to achieve the fastest possible boot time. What do I need to consider? No budget but be reasonable. I'm not about to buy a $9000 enterprise grade SSD just because it's crazy fast.




  15. Gonna make this quick. Looking for a new mouse, currently own a G602 and love it. However the buttons on the side are not ideal and the G502 seems like a much better option in terms of button placement and not needing batteries.


    I want to know two things about the G502 before I buy.


    First, is that button with the crosshair on it bindable to a key? I noticed is it not a named "G" key (the other buttons on the side are named G4 and G5). If it is purely a DPI switch and nothing else, that's pretty much a dealbreaker as I need at least 3 side buttons.


    Second, how is the travel distance of the left and right click buttons? I went to best buy yesterday to test it out and it felt mushier than my G602. I'm not sure if that's because it was abused by customers or not, but it felt cheaper and flimsier than my current 3 year old mouse. I mostly play MOBAs so mashing right click for 40 minutes at a time needs to be easy, effortless, and fast. If any G502 owners can comment on this I would appreciate it, especially if you have also owned a G602.