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FunKaLiTy

First build, need some advice

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Posted · Original PosterOP

Okay so I'll be building this beauty soon, I assume all the parts will arrive during the coming week so I'll be building it during the weekend

 

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/#9thxGX 

 

But as you can see there is not much storage and I want to use the SSD I have in my broken laptop, it's a kingston SSD, not sure exactly which one, I will figure that out later to check if that SSD is at all Raid 0 compatible.

 

Of course on that SSD I have windows installed and a few games and stuff, first of all I assume I can't just install it and boot from that and voila I have windows right?

I guess I'll have to buy another copy of it and make a boot device on a usb stick then activate it with a key I buy online.

 

What I'm wondering about is if both SSD's are of a type than can be set in Raid 0, can I do it even tho they are different?

 

Also how will it work when I insert a used SSD with already an OS and other stuff on it, do I have to do anything first or will it just show up as another drive with all the stuff on it?
I assume I'll have to completely delete everything from that SSD before attempting a Raid 0 setup, but what about the new one?
I probably need windows in order to view and format the old SSD right?

So do I install the new SSD on my motherboard, plug in the USB boot device, enter BIOS and boot from the USB in order to install windows on the new SSD first, then when I'm in and all is good I install the SSD I take from my laptop onto the motherboard, download the formatting tool from the manufacturer of that SSD, format that drive and then restart, go into BIOS, set them in Raid 0 and all is good or how do I go about doing this?


I currently don't know how to make a boot device or set SSD's in Raid config, I'm very inexperienced fiddling with BIOS stuff in general so any help or advice is very much appreciated! :P

 

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22 minutes ago, FunKaLiTy said:

Of course on that SSD I have windows installed and a few games and stuff, first of all I assume I can't just install it and boot from that and voila I have windows right?

I guess I'll have to buy another copy of it and make a boot device on a usb stick then activate it with a key I buy online

Don't bother buying windows at all, unless you really hate the translucent "activate windpws prompt. Here's what you should try though, use the SSD from your laptop as a temporary boot drive if it allows you, then clone it onto the force mp500. Use a program called EaseUS (although I am assuming they're the same size SSD). Then you can just wipe the old drive using the "hard disk partition" tool, and uninstall or delete any junk leftover.


I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k (won) - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Kill Trident Z RGB - Force MP500 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G2 650W - Black and green theme, Razer branwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

Linux Proliant ML150 G6:

Dual Xeon X5560 - 24GB ECC DDR3 - GTX 750 TI - old Seagate 1.5TB HDD - Dark moded Ubuntu (and Win7, cuz why not)

 

How many watts do I need? Seasonic Focus threadUserbenchmark (Et al.) is trash explained, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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Also, you cannot setup raid with different transfer types. You'd need another SATA SSD or another PCIe SSD to do so. Raid 0 is useless for a gaming PC so don't bother if that's your use case.


I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k (won) - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Kill Trident Z RGB - Force MP500 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G2 650W - Black and green theme, Razer branwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

Linux Proliant ML150 G6:

Dual Xeon X5560 - 24GB ECC DDR3 - GTX 750 TI - old Seagate 1.5TB HDD - Dark moded Ubuntu (and Win7, cuz why not)

 

How many watts do I need? Seasonic Focus threadUserbenchmark (Et al.) is trash explained, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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Posted · Original PosterOP
15 minutes ago, fasauceome said:

Don't bother buying windows at all, unless you really hate the translucent "activate windpws prompt. Here's what you should try though, use the SSD from your laptop as a temporary boot drive if it allows you, then clone it onto the force mp500. Use a program called EaseUS (although I am assuming they're the same size SSD). Then you can just wipe the old drive using the "hard disk partition" tool, and uninstall or delete any junk leftover.

I do hate stuff that pop up like that....which is why I never ever will buy a Norton product ever again, they pissed me off for years 15 or so years ago and I still haven't forgotten it :P

If I can buy a proper windows key for about $20 I feel it's very much worth it!

 

So I should install both SSD's on the motherboard right away and try booting from the one from my laptop??
That sounds very weird to me, but idk...also why would I clone it?
I thought I should just make it as clean as possible before merging it with the new one.

14 minutes ago, fasauceome said:

Also, you cannot setup raid with different transfer types. You'd need another SATA SSD or another PCIe SSD to do so. Raid 0 is useless for a gaming PC so don't bother if that's your use case.

Maybe I should just forget about the Raid 0 thing then....I will primarily use it for gaming, but I want the most I can get out of my components tho! ? 

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Just now, FunKaLiTy said:

If I can buy a proper windows key for about $20 I feel it's very much worth it!

If anything this is definitely the right way to do it, but you can clone the laptop drive (provided your motherboard doesn't reject it) because it will already have a license key activated and all your stuff on it. It will help you skip a lot of the setup, you just need to download motherboard and graphics drivers.


I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k (won) - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Kill Trident Z RGB - Force MP500 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G2 650W - Black and green theme, Razer branwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

Linux Proliant ML150 G6:

Dual Xeon X5560 - 24GB ECC DDR3 - GTX 750 TI - old Seagate 1.5TB HDD - Dark moded Ubuntu (and Win7, cuz why not)

 

How many watts do I need? Seasonic Focus threadUserbenchmark (Et al.) is trash explained, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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Posted · Original PosterOP
18 minutes ago, fasauceome said:

If anything this is definitely the right way to do it, but you can clone the laptop drive (provided your motherboard doesn't reject it) because it will already have a license key activated and all your stuff on it. It will help you skip a lot of the setup, you just need to download motherboard and graphics drivers.

I feel like it's best to just start off with a clean slate so there are no useless drivers or other stuff left over from the laptop taking up space or possibly even RAM or processing power.

 

How would you go about doing that?

I was thinking I install everything in the pc case except the SSD from my laptop
Then I use my functioning laptop to make a windows boot device with a usb stick

I insert the usb stick to a usb port in my new pc and try to power it on, while it's powering on I mash the F2 button to enter BIOS

Then I find the option to boot from USB device and choose the USB I have made into a Windows boot device

After I've installed Windows I was thinking I shut the computer off and insert the SSD from my laptop

Then I reboot and download the software from that SSD manufacturer which lets me completely wipe it clean
After that I was planning on rebooting and setting the SSD's up in Raid 0

And then I go ahead and install all drivers for everything before I start overclocking the different components

 

How does that sound?
Also do you recommend I use some sort of software to overclock my GPU, CPU and RAM or is it better if I do it in the BIOS?

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5 minutes ago, FunKaLiTy said:

How does that sound?
Also do you recommend I use some sort of software to overclock my GPU, CPU and RAM or is it better if I do it in the BIOS?

Sounds like the right idea, except that you don't need any software to wipe the drive, you can use a windows installer to wipe drives. You can have the m.2 and the SATA SSD in the PC at the same time, use the windows install tool to wipe the laptop drive's partition, and then remove that SSD. Install Windows on the m.2, and there you have it.

 

Also, always overclock CPU and ram in the BIOS, it's a lot better. If you're not gonna push the graphics card really high, let GPU boost take care of it.


I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k (won) - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Kill Trident Z RGB - Force MP500 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G2 650W - Black and green theme, Razer branwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

Linux Proliant ML150 G6:

Dual Xeon X5560 - 24GB ECC DDR3 - GTX 750 TI - old Seagate 1.5TB HDD - Dark moded Ubuntu (and Win7, cuz why not)

 

How many watts do I need? Seasonic Focus threadUserbenchmark (Et al.) is trash explained, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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Posted · Original PosterOP
9 minutes ago, fasauceome said:

Sounds like the right idea, except that you don't need any software to wipe the drive, you can use a windows installer to wipe drives. You can have the m.2 and the SATA SSD in the PC at the same time, use the windows install tool to wipe the laptop drive's partition, and then remove that SSD. Install Windows on the m.2, and there you have it.

 

Also, always overclock CPU and ram in the BIOS, it's a lot better. If you're not gonna push the graphics card really high, let GPU boost take care of it.

They are both m.2 nvme ssd's....the motherboard I chose is supposed to support that.

 

It does kind of suck that I have to install the 2nd SSD after I got everything installed into the case tho....maybe I don't need to do that?
I don't want it to accidentally install windows on that SSD instead or something stupid like that....that's why I thought I might need to install windows on the new SSD first and then put the laptop SSD in afterwards.

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6 minutes ago, FunKaLiTy said:

They are both m.2 nvme ssd's....the motherboard I chose is supposed to support that.

 

It does kind of suck that I have to install the 2nd SSD after I got everything installed into the case tho....maybe I don't need to do that?
I don't want it to accidentally install windows on that SSD instead or something stupid like that....that's why I thought I might need to install windows on the new SSD first and then put the laptop SSD in afterwards.

Oh well if that's the case, trust me, you will have a hard time accidentally installing Windows on the wrong drive. They have model names after all.


I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k (won) - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Kill Trident Z RGB - Force MP500 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G2 650W - Black and green theme, Razer branwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

Linux Proliant ML150 G6:

Dual Xeon X5560 - 24GB ECC DDR3 - GTX 750 TI - old Seagate 1.5TB HDD - Dark moded Ubuntu (and Win7, cuz why not)

 

How many watts do I need? Seasonic Focus threadUserbenchmark (Et al.) is trash explained, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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Posted · Original PosterOP

I don't really have access to an ethernet connection unless I carry my pc up to the houseowner upstairs, I don't really wanna do that, maybe I have to in order to make the wi-fi adapter work or can I download the drivers on my functioning laptop, put them on a usb stick and install them that way? Should work fine right?

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