Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...
rmurph17

Need some help overclocking

By rmurph17, in CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory · 17 replies

Recommended Posts

Posted · Original PosterOP

Hi all,

 

Currently trying to get some gentle overclocking on my components. So far my best settings are:

 

CPU = 4.2GHz, 1.40V VCore, CPUVcore and VCoreSOC loadline calibration both set to Turbo,

RAM = 3400Mhz at timings of 18-20-20-20-40-2T.

 

The problem is that when I done my benchmarks on Userbenchmark, the results are below expected across the board:

 

UserBenchmark: Results

CPU-Z: Results

 

Any pointers at all here? Really appreciate all the help I get on these forums, and I apologise in advance for being a scrub. 

Motherboard: Gigabyte AORUS Gaming 7 WiFi (X470)  HDD: 1TB Samsung 970 EVO M.2 NVMe SSD   Headphones: Bang & Olufsen Beoplay H4
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X                            CaseFans: 6 120mm Corsair LL120         Monitor: Hisense 65" 4K UHD w/HDR
GPU: Palit Geforce RTX 2080 Ti GamingPro OC       PSU: Corsair RM850x 80+ Gold            Phone: Apple iPhone X 256 GB
RAM: Gigabyte AORUS RGB DDR4 32GB 3733MHz         Case: Gigabyte AORUS AC300W             Mouse: Logitec MK270
share
Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

check temperatures and actual voltage used during testing with HWinfo sensor mode. Max LLC is prone to overshooting it, especially bad on Gigabyte boards

Studying abroad, ditched the crappy laptop for a do-all laptop double. Dried factory CPU paste, long memory timings, cooler cools the inductors but not the mosfets and an inch of unused internal space on both left and right

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV system agent undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (1696MHz 0.812V ~ 1860MHz 0.95V) RAM: 12GB DDR4-2666 19-19-19-43 2T Storage: 128GB Toshiba NVMe SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) + 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) Monitor: 1080p 120Hz IPS G-sync

 

The best thing to do is reading the clock speed that doesnt end in a pair of zeros. Software voltage readings are wrong if your motherboard's not a high end model

CPU: i7-2600K 4493MHz (multiplier: 43x) 1.35V (software) --> 1.4V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 104.5MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 10-11-11-30 2T 2133MHz, custom: 10-11-10-30 1T 2229MHz) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (OC'd 150Hz) TN Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Results: Cinebench R15 Single thread:159 Multi-thread: 770 (thx Meltdown Spectre patch) Super Pi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.11s 1M: 8.4s 32M: 7m 45.9s

share
Bananasplit_00 and rmurph17 reacted to this
Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted
5 minutes ago, shmoochie said:

only getting 4.2 with 1.4v wow

by 2700X standards that's pretty normal, though a bit on the disappointing side

Studying abroad, ditched the crappy laptop for a do-all laptop double. Dried factory CPU paste, long memory timings, cooler cools the inductors but not the mosfets and an inch of unused internal space on both left and right

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV system agent undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (1696MHz 0.812V ~ 1860MHz 0.95V) RAM: 12GB DDR4-2666 19-19-19-43 2T Storage: 128GB Toshiba NVMe SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) + 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) Monitor: 1080p 120Hz IPS G-sync

 

The best thing to do is reading the clock speed that doesnt end in a pair of zeros. Software voltage readings are wrong if your motherboard's not a high end model

CPU: i7-2600K 4493MHz (multiplier: 43x) 1.35V (software) --> 1.4V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 104.5MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 10-11-11-30 2T 2133MHz, custom: 10-11-10-30 1T 2229MHz) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (OC'd 150Hz) TN Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Results: Cinebench R15 Single thread:159 Multi-thread: 770 (thx Meltdown Spectre patch) Super Pi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.11s 1M: 8.4s 32M: 7m 45.9s

share
rmurph17 reacted to this
Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Original PosterOP
3 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

check temperatures and actual voltage used during testing with HWinfo sensor mode. Max LLC is prone to overshooting it, especially bad on Gigabyte boards

I dialled back the loadline calibration, there is another level above it (Extreme). Should I dial it back another level? 

Motherboard: Gigabyte AORUS Gaming 7 WiFi (X470)  HDD: 1TB Samsung 970 EVO M.2 NVMe SSD   Headphones: Bang & Olufsen Beoplay H4
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X                            CaseFans: 6 120mm Corsair LL120         Monitor: Hisense 65" 4K UHD w/HDR
GPU: Palit Geforce RTX 2080 Ti GamingPro OC       PSU: Corsair RM850x 80+ Gold            Phone: Apple iPhone X 256 GB
RAM: Gigabyte AORUS RGB DDR4 32GB 3733MHz         Case: Gigabyte AORUS AC300W             Mouse: Logitec MK270
share
Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted
1 minute ago, rmurph17 said:

I dialled back the loadline calibration, there is another level above it (Extreme). Should I dial it back another level?

just make sure under load the voltage doesnt go past what you set it to. 

Studying abroad, ditched the crappy laptop for a do-all laptop double. Dried factory CPU paste, long memory timings, cooler cools the inductors but not the mosfets and an inch of unused internal space on both left and right

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV system agent undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (1696MHz 0.812V ~ 1860MHz 0.95V) RAM: 12GB DDR4-2666 19-19-19-43 2T Storage: 128GB Toshiba NVMe SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) + 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) Monitor: 1080p 120Hz IPS G-sync

 

The best thing to do is reading the clock speed that doesnt end in a pair of zeros. Software voltage readings are wrong if your motherboard's not a high end model

CPU: i7-2600K 4493MHz (multiplier: 43x) 1.35V (software) --> 1.4V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 104.5MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 10-11-11-30 2T 2133MHz, custom: 10-11-10-30 1T 2229MHz) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (OC'd 150Hz) TN Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Results: Cinebench R15 Single thread:159 Multi-thread: 770 (thx Meltdown Spectre patch) Super Pi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.11s 1M: 8.4s 32M: 7m 45.9s

share
rmurph17 reacted to this
Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Original PosterOP
2 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

just make sure under load the voltage doesnt go past what you set it to. 

sorry for being a dumbass but how do I monitor/ record that?  

Motherboard: Gigabyte AORUS Gaming 7 WiFi (X470)  HDD: 1TB Samsung 970 EVO M.2 NVMe SSD   Headphones: Bang & Olufsen Beoplay H4
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X                            CaseFans: 6 120mm Corsair LL120         Monitor: Hisense 65" 4K UHD w/HDR
GPU: Palit Geforce RTX 2080 Ti GamingPro OC       PSU: Corsair RM850x 80+ Gold            Phone: Apple iPhone X 256 GB
RAM: Gigabyte AORUS RGB DDR4 32GB 3733MHz         Case: Gigabyte AORUS AC300W             Mouse: Logitec MK270
share
Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Original PosterOP
8 minutes ago, shmoochie said:

LOL thats really bad. the lowest OC Ive ever personally done was was 4.5ghz

on 2700X?  

Motherboard: Gigabyte AORUS Gaming 7 WiFi (X470)  HDD: 1TB Samsung 970 EVO M.2 NVMe SSD   Headphones: Bang & Olufsen Beoplay H4
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X                            CaseFans: 6 120mm Corsair LL120         Monitor: Hisense 65" 4K UHD w/HDR
GPU: Palit Geforce RTX 2080 Ti GamingPro OC       PSU: Corsair RM850x 80+ Gold            Phone: Apple iPhone X 256 GB
RAM: Gigabyte AORUS RGB DDR4 32GB 3733MHz         Case: Gigabyte AORUS AC300W             Mouse: Logitec MK270
share
Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted
14 minutes ago, rmurph17 said:

sorry for being a dumbass but how do I monitor/ record that? 

HWInfo and some benchmark will tell you. just look at core voltage and that should have a max. if that max goes over the voltage you set then LLC is being overly agressive. you also have ~0.025V to the limit if you have the cooling to take it and you want to push more. (though i only know that number from gen 1 Ryzen and im a littlle unsure if it applies for Ryzen+)

I spent $2500 on building my PC and all i do with it is play MTGA & watch anime at 720p...

Builds:

The Toaster Project! Northern Bee! The Cassette Deck!

 

The original LAN PC build log! (Old, dead and replaced by The Toaster Project & 5.0)

Spoiler

"Here is some advice that might have gotten lost somewhere along the way in your life. 

 

#1. Treat others as you would like to be treated.

#2. It's best to keep your mouth shut; and appear to be stupid, rather than open it and remove all doubt.

#3. There is nothing "wrong" with being wrong. Learning from a mistake can be more valuable than not making one in the first place.

 

Follow these simple rules in life, and I promise you, things magically get easier. " - MageTank 31-10-2016

 

 

share
rmurph17 reacted to this
Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Original PosterOP
Just now, Bananasplit_00 said:

HWInfo and some benchmark will tell you. just look at core voltage and that should have a max. if that max goes over the voltage you set then LLC is being overly agressive. you also have ~0.25V to the limit if you have the cooling to take it and you want to push more. (though i only know that number from gen 1 Ryzen and im a littlle unsure if it applies for Ryzen+)

It's currently air cooled with the stock cooler so I am being gentle with it I guess, I tickled it up to 4.25GHz at the same voltage and it's running stable in CPU-Z:

 

New CPU-Z: Results (New) 

Motherboard: Gigabyte AORUS Gaming 7 WiFi (X470)  HDD: 1TB Samsung 970 EVO M.2 NVMe SSD   Headphones: Bang & Olufsen Beoplay H4
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X                            CaseFans: 6 120mm Corsair LL120         Monitor: Hisense 65" 4K UHD w/HDR
GPU: Palit Geforce RTX 2080 Ti GamingPro OC       PSU: Corsair RM850x 80+ Gold            Phone: Apple iPhone X 256 GB
RAM: Gigabyte AORUS RGB DDR4 32GB 3733MHz         Case: Gigabyte AORUS AC300W             Mouse: Logitec MK270
share
Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted
13 minutes ago, shmoochie said:

LOL thats really bad. the lowest OC Ive ever personally done was was 4.5ghz

frequency with CPUs of different architecture cannot be compared

Studying abroad, ditched the crappy laptop for a do-all laptop double. Dried factory CPU paste, long memory timings, cooler cools the inductors but not the mosfets and an inch of unused internal space on both left and right

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV system agent undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (1696MHz 0.812V ~ 1860MHz 0.95V) RAM: 12GB DDR4-2666 19-19-19-43 2T Storage: 128GB Toshiba NVMe SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) + 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) Monitor: 1080p 120Hz IPS G-sync

 

The best thing to do is reading the clock speed that doesnt end in a pair of zeros. Software voltage readings are wrong if your motherboard's not a high end model

CPU: i7-2600K 4493MHz (multiplier: 43x) 1.35V (software) --> 1.4V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 104.5MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 10-11-11-30 2T 2133MHz, custom: 10-11-10-30 1T 2229MHz) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (OC'd 150Hz) TN Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Results: Cinebench R15 Single thread:159 Multi-thread: 770 (thx Meltdown Spectre patch) Super Pi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.11s 1M: 8.4s 32M: 7m 45.9s

share
rmurph17 and Bananasplit_00 reacted to this
Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted
1 minute ago, rmurph17 said:

It's currently air cooled with the stock cooler so I am being gentle with it I guess, I tickled it up to 4.25GHz at the same voltage and it's running stable in CPU-Z:

 

New CPU-Z: Results (New)

yah and i spotted a typo, Ryzen is not ment to be run at 1.65V, that would be pretty bad. i ment that the upper limit would be 1.425V which is the highest voltage a motherboard vendor(MSI) recomended for Ryzen AFAIK

 

If you are on the stock cooler still id be happy with this and be done with it, its a nice performance boost and as long as temps are fine then you are good to go

I spent $2500 on building my PC and all i do with it is play MTGA & watch anime at 720p...

Builds:

The Toaster Project! Northern Bee! The Cassette Deck!

 

The original LAN PC build log! (Old, dead and replaced by The Toaster Project & 5.0)

Spoiler

"Here is some advice that might have gotten lost somewhere along the way in your life. 

 

#1. Treat others as you would like to be treated.

#2. It's best to keep your mouth shut; and appear to be stupid, rather than open it and remove all doubt.

#3. There is nothing "wrong" with being wrong. Learning from a mistake can be more valuable than not making one in the first place.

 

Follow these simple rules in life, and I promise you, things magically get easier. " - MageTank 31-10-2016

 

 

share
rmurph17 reacted to this
Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted
Just now, shmoochie said:

thats only what noobs say

ok so the FX series of chips are the best ones because they can go 8GHz then?

1 minute ago, shmoochie said:

nope just out of every PC ive ever overclocked. no point in getting an overclockable chip if it can't pass 4.4 IMO

do you know what IPC is?

I spent $2500 on building my PC and all i do with it is play MTGA & watch anime at 720p...

Builds:

The Toaster Project! Northern Bee! The Cassette Deck!

 

The original LAN PC build log! (Old, dead and replaced by The Toaster Project & 5.0)

Spoiler

"Here is some advice that might have gotten lost somewhere along the way in your life. 

 

#1. Treat others as you would like to be treated.

#2. It's best to keep your mouth shut; and appear to be stupid, rather than open it and remove all doubt.

#3. There is nothing "wrong" with being wrong. Learning from a mistake can be more valuable than not making one in the first place.

 

Follow these simple rules in life, and I promise you, things magically get easier. " - MageTank 31-10-2016

 

 

share
rmurph17 reacted to this
Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted
2 minutes ago, shmoochie said:

thats only what noobs say

dat irony is too much to take

Studying abroad, ditched the crappy laptop for a do-all laptop double. Dried factory CPU paste, long memory timings, cooler cools the inductors but not the mosfets and an inch of unused internal space on both left and right

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV system agent undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (1696MHz 0.812V ~ 1860MHz 0.95V) RAM: 12GB DDR4-2666 19-19-19-43 2T Storage: 128GB Toshiba NVMe SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) + 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) Monitor: 1080p 120Hz IPS G-sync

 

The best thing to do is reading the clock speed that doesnt end in a pair of zeros. Software voltage readings are wrong if your motherboard's not a high end model

CPU: i7-2600K 4493MHz (multiplier: 43x) 1.35V (software) --> 1.4V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 104.5MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 10-11-11-30 2T 2133MHz, custom: 10-11-10-30 1T 2229MHz) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (OC'd 150Hz) TN Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Results: Cinebench R15 Single thread:159 Multi-thread: 770 (thx Meltdown Spectre patch) Super Pi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.11s 1M: 8.4s 32M: 7m 45.9s

share
rmurph17 and Bananasplit_00 reacted to this
Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Original PosterOP

OK first of all, thank you to all the guys in here helping me out, it has been a great amount of help and I love these forums for it. 

 

In close to this thread I was able to tweak some things and get more performance:

 

CPU = 4.30 Ghz @ 1.39V,

RAM = 3,600MHz @ XMP Profile 1 (auto timings),

GPU = +157Mhz to base clock and +997Mhz on memory clock.

 

Happy with the thermals, happy with the small increases in performance. I did get the RTX to +202MHz on base clock and the thermals were not bad but it was artifacting space invaders all over the screen. 

Motherboard: Gigabyte AORUS Gaming 7 WiFi (X470)  HDD: 1TB Samsung 970 EVO M.2 NVMe SSD   Headphones: Bang & Olufsen Beoplay H4
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X                            CaseFans: 6 120mm Corsair LL120         Monitor: Hisense 65" 4K UHD w/HDR
GPU: Palit Geforce RTX 2080 Ti GamingPro OC       PSU: Corsair RM850x 80+ Gold            Phone: Apple iPhone X 256 GB
RAM: Gigabyte AORUS RGB DDR4 32GB 3733MHz         Case: Gigabyte AORUS AC300W             Mouse: Logitec MK270
share
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Go To Topic Listing CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory

×