Jump to content

Copper Tubing is HARD

jakkuh_t
2 hours ago, Tcrumpen said:

Coiled tubing might have been cheaper if you can get the same results by spending less why wouldn't you do that

 

Of course i could be wrong there

To get the same results with coiled tubing, you will have to spend more on the tools needed. That straightener Linus tried cost almost $100 on Eastwood and didn't work all that great.

 

Btw, I looked on Eastwood's website (I've bought tools from them before) and the largest straightener they showed was for only 3/8".

Jeannie

 

As long as anyone is oppressed, no one will be safe and free.

One has to be proactive, not reactive, to ensure the safety of one's data so backup your data! And RAID is NOT a backup!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, Lady Fitzgerald said:

Sure, calling a plumber is easier. It's also more expensive and you don't always get exactly what you want. Besides, many people just like to do things for themselves and often can do a better job than the pros since they aren't on the clock and competing for the job.

 

I sounds to me like they used soft drawn copper tubing on your job which is the same as coiled copper tubing. Rigid copper pipe can't be bent much without kinking unless it is annealed first.

I aint saying dont do it yourself. Im just saying they would benefit from having someone with copper-bending expertease nearby.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

That was quite an impressive job. Just how many man dozen of hours did you put in the whole project that we have no idea of. 

The ability to google properly is a skill of its own. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

59 minutes ago, asus killer said:

stupid question: wouldn't brass look better? it can get some nice colors with aging

 

35 minutes ago, idmb said:

Brass and stainless steel are harder to work with than copper. Both work harden quickly. Both are harder to find in a workable grade. Brass can be annealed but, if you try to anneal stainless steel, heating it will cause permanent discoloration and may destroy the rust preventative properties. 

 

The flexible stainless steel braid jacketed rubber tubing like the stuff that's linked will deteriorate more quickly and can release small particles of rubber into the system.

 

If (a huge if) I ever decided to watercool a computer, I would prefer using some kind of clear tubing so I would be able to see any organic buildup occurring. Tempered glass would be the best choice since it wouldn't stain but would be extremely expensive since I would have to have the tube bent to shape prior to tempering.

Jeannie

 

As long as anyone is oppressed, no one will be safe and free.

One has to be proactive, not reactive, to ensure the safety of one's data so backup your data! And RAID is NOT a backup!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have been trying to find more information on the barrow water distribution channel, any thoughts on how it performs? Also, what pump did you use with it? I'm planning my first water cooled build and the compatibility planning is confusing for me. Thanks for the info.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi (anyone who happens to read my post),

 

This is me, diving in head-first into water cooling. After seeing Linus' video, I decided this Lian Li case was for me — there's no turning back. There remain only a handful of issues I still can't figure out... Presumably, the "DDC pump" he mentioned is this one from EKWB, and the "really cool water distribution/reservoir block" featured in the build must be this one from Barrow (as shown for sale @ AliExpress).

 

Regarding the waterway channel block:

  • Would it really only work with Intel motherboards, as the manufacturer states?
  • Did Linus even mount it to the fan mount slots on the side of the case, or is it simply resting there?
  • Is there a reason Linus chose not to purchase the RGB compatible version? Does it pertain to the 5V 3-pin limitation? Did the block even come with RGB strips?
  • Is it necessary to channel the water through two 360 mm radiators, as in the video? It seems overkill and costly for no difference at all.
  • Can I totally reduce the amount of channeling and just run tubing to the graphics card and a single radiator?

Regarding the pump:

  • Is the correct O-ring for mounting it to the waterway channel block even available... anywhere? Should I expect to need that tube of rubber used in the video?
  • Can the pump be placed anywhere along the... water's path?
  • Was the 3D printed cover for the pump intended to shroud the back side's cooling fins?

Thank you to whoever assists me on this. Lately, I've been really interested in taking on a water cooling project for my brand new (read: expensive) graphics card and I had literally no idea how to even start, apart from choosing a water block that is compatible with my card. I took a chance by watching Linus' video last night — when I could have been researching the best cases for water cooling — but now I'm set on rebuilding my PC in Lian Li's O11 Dyanmic, and potentially with the parts used in the video (excluding the copper piping, of course).

 

-Evan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought the Barrows reservoir thingee looked kind of cool. Which way do you have the top and bottom fans blowing (in/out)?

What are the temps on the MB voltage regulators with only radiator ventilation in the case?

CC

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Lady Fitzgerald said:

 

Brass and stainless steel are harder to work with than copper. Both work harden quickly. Both are harder to find in a workable grade. Brass can be annealed but, if you try to anneal stainless steel, heating it will cause permanent discoloration and may destroy the rust preventative properties. 

 

The flexible stainless steel braid jacketed rubber tubing like the stuff that's linked will deteriorate more quickly and can release small particles of rubber into the system.

 

If (a huge if) I ever decided to watercool a computer, I would prefer using some kind of clear tubing so I would be able to see any organic buildup occurring. Tempered glass would be the best choice since it wouldn't stain but would be extremely expensive since I would have to have the tube bent to shape prior to tempering.

Stainless is actually pretty easy to work with! I use it for high pressure gas lines all the time. You don't have to do anything extra to use it in terms of annealing: just buy straight tube and use a tube bender on it. It works fine and you get nice joints.   

 

What I linked is not "jacketed rubber tubing," it's "Convoluted 316L SS Core Hose Stainless Braid" which is just stainless steel. More similar to a welded bellows than rubber tubing.

 

No rubber. No deterioration. No ugly oxidation effects like aluminum or copper.  

 

You can read about the different types of flexible tubing here:

https://www.swagelok.com/downloads/webcatalogs/EN/MS-01-180.PDF

 

That stuff is expensive but it is amazing. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, idmb said:

Stainless is actually pretty easy to work with! I use it for high pressure gas lines all the time. You don't have to do anything extra to use it in terms of annealing: just buy straight tube and use a tube bender on it. It works fine and you get nice joints.   

 

What I linked is not "jacketed rubber tubing," it's "Convoluted 316L SS Core Hose Stainless Braid" which is just stainless steel. More similar to a welded bellows than rubber tubing.

 

No rubber. No deterioration. No ugly oxidation effects like aluminum or copper.  

 

You can read about the different types of flexible tubing here:

https://www.swagelok.com/downloads/webcatalogs/EN/MS-01-180.PDF

 

That stuff is expensive but it is amazing. 

I stand sit corrected.

Jeannie

 

As long as anyone is oppressed, no one will be safe and free.

One has to be proactive, not reactive, to ensure the safety of one's data so backup your data! And RAID is NOT a backup!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Lady Fitzgerald said:

To get the same results with coiled tubing, you will have to spend more on the tools needed. That straightener Linus tried cost almost $100 on Eastwood and didn't work all that great.

 

Btw, I looked on Eastwood's website (I've bought tools from them before) and the largest straightener they showed was for only 3/8".

$10 in tools. Go to a dollar store and buy a manual metal cutting hand tool, if they come with blades that is a bonus. Next you need to deburr the edges, a simple file will do, or you can knock the bad edge back with your flat head screw driver and use an emery paper.

 

 

 

9 hours ago, HimymCZe said:

I aint saying dont do it yourself. Im just saying they would benefit from having someone with copper-bending expertease nearby.

Hahahaha when it comes to anything that has to do with building, other then a pc, the LMG team are not good at building anything. They can route wire and cabling, build a server, build a pc, plug in wires.

 

 

8 hours ago, Bouzoo said:

Just how many man dozen of hours did you put in the whole project that we have no idea of. 

I am sure there is a general timeline of how long it took and how much money was put into the "project" like salaries and other employee costs along with materials like copper piping and other costs.

 

 

7 hours ago, asus killer said:

stupid question: wouldn't brass look better? it can get some nice colors with aging

Perhaps but you cant work it that well for bends.

 

 

7 hours ago, idmb said:

You could use an automotive flex tubing, and I am sure there are other products out there. Copper piping is the easiest because you can go to Home Depot and buy the stuff and get to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Barrow has a pump designed for these WaterWay reservoir, SPB 17-T Plus.

I read on Aliexpress that you can use other branded pumps, which I then wonder, can you use a D5 pump or would it be too heavy for the fitting/WaterWay block?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Emmmmm.This is my first post and my mother language is not English.So please excuse me for my poor English(o゚v゚)ノ

Cut to the chase.HOW ABOUT MAKING A CASE WITH COPPER!?  Just like the IN WIN  D-FrameMini

BUT~!   there is a radiator attach to the case!  I mean directly attach the radiaor to the case with copper tubes.The radiator and the case become a closed circuit water loop.

I truly hope you guys make it a video!!( ̄︶ ̄)↗ ?

546992a6N81bccb72.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Nick^_~G said:

Emmmmm.This is my first post and my mother language is not English.So please excuse me for my poor English(o゚v゚)ノ

Cut to the chase.HOW ABOUT MAKING A CASE WITH COPPER!?  Just like the IN WIN  D-FrameMini

BUT~!   there is a radiator attach to the case!  I mean directly attach the radiaor to the case with copper tubes.The radiator and the case become a closed circuit water loop.

I truly hope you guys make it a video!!( ̄︶ ̄)↗ ?

546992a6N81bccb72.jpg

It's been done. Here are a couple:

 

http://www.compucase.com/review/article/copper-pipes-computer-case.html

 

https://www.bestvpn.com/guides/ultimate-mining-rig/

Jeannie

 

As long as anyone is oppressed, no one will be safe and free.

One has to be proactive, not reactive, to ensure the safety of one's data so backup your data! And RAID is NOT a backup!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi, can anyone tell me what song was used for this video at about the 5:50 mark?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Such a beautiful build, I'm actually attempting this one.

 

What size extension fittings did you have to use on the CPU and GPU blocks? I don't think you used any up front, did you?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
On 8/22/2019 at 4:41 AM, Johetan said:

Tried it, it works. its hard work tbh. Grafics card will be added sometime in the future

IMG_20190220_113105.jpg

 

Looks great! I'm currently planning my copper tubing build. What OD pipe did you use, 5/8" (commonly labeled as 1/2")? What fittings did you use?

 

______

 

Also, it looks like in Linus' video, he used EK fittings. But to my knowledge, the closest fittings I could find from EK are 16mm, not 5/8" (15.875mm). Does anyone think there would be issues using the EK 16mm fittings with the 5/8" pipe? It seems pretty hard to find 5/8" fittings. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, dgsddfgdfhgs said:

enjoy your blue-ish green copper OXIDE!!!

Not terrible. its quite rigid and not soluble in water. 

With copper tubing you have to be careful with destilled water, as it tends to get quite acidic quite fast due to dissolved Co2 in the water. 

But, i'll check the ph Number, and can also check the pipes. (Ive used it like that for half a year now)   

 

And on the outside, there is lacquer on the outside. (Nitrocellulose lacquer) 

 

Nickel and Copper should not get me in any trouble with galvanic corrosion. 

5 hours ago, flyingpepper said:

 

Looks great! I'm currently planning my copper tubing build. What OD pipe did you use, 5/8" (commonly labeled as 1/2")? What fittings did you use?

 

______

 

Also, it looks like in Linus' video, he used EK fittings. But to my knowledge, the closest fittings I could find from EK are 16mm, not 5/8" (15.875mm). Does anyone think there would be issues using the EK 16mm fittings with the 5/8" pipe? It seems pretty hard to find 5/8" fittings. 

Thanks!

 

I used 12mm od 10mm id copper pipes. (Sorry, Germany) (super cheap, like 3€ per meter) 

And I used soft copper, which i straightened by putting one end in a vice, holding the other end with a wrench and gently hammering the wrench to straighten it. 

 

The fittings are Alphacool Eiszapfen g 1/4 12/10mm.

 

I guess if you want to go bigger, you might want to use 16mm soft copper pipe and 16mm od fittings.

 

And I think 16mm fitting with 5/8" is a bad idea, but is it not possible to find metric copper tubing? (or probably another o-ring?...

 

But youll still need a tube bender (a high quality one) 

the bending springs are garbage. 

Edited by Johetan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×