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FilipSebik

Car speakers rattling at volume greater than...

12 hours ago, circeseye said:

ah yea...but instead of wood get yourself a piece of sheet metal (or other metal) home depot, ace, lowes, all carry small sheets, different thicknesses. (wood is thick so) then cut it to size and hole for speaker...then use a silicon caulking around where it attaches to car then screw it on....
but look on amazon...they have a lot of 8" speakers, even 3 ways...maybe even a 6x8 then less hole to fill

I don't have lowes or ace and ordering from amazon takes weeks to arrive. I can go to home depot and get the things I need there

 

Also I found that the speakers are so old that the wire that connects to the voice coil is so bad that it has a bad connection and this causes the distortion. So the only way is to replace the speakers.

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Posted · Original PosterOP

Hello, I just installed a subwoofer in my car and my stock speakers are rattling at volume and above volume level 20. The only things I know about them are their size and that they are 4 ohm. They rattle because of their bad mounting (the speciality of my dad), bad connections and or they are being affected by distortion by being played above their power limit or radio amp not supplying enough power. The radio unit/amp is 4x40W sony something. I can tell you the model number and more things the speakers if you ask.

 

Thanks for helping me :) 

 

PS: The speakers were rattling before I installed the subwoofer so it's not caused by the sub's power consumption.


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16 minutes ago, FilipSebik said:

Hello, I just installed a subwoofer in my car and my stock speakers are rattling at volume and above volume level 20. The only things I know about them are their size and that they are 4 ohm. They rattle because of their bad mounting (the speciality of my dad), bad connections and or they are being affected by distortion by being played above their power limit or radio amp not supplying enough power. The radio unit/amp is 4x40W sony something. I can tell you the model number and more things the speakers if you ask.

 

Thanks for helping me :) 

 

PS: The speakers were rattling before I installed the subwoofer so it's not caused by the sub's power consumption.

So what's the problem? Is it with the subwoofer? What does rattling mean?(cracking?)

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Posted · Original PosterOP
Just now, timl132 said:

So what's the problem? Is it with the subwoofer? What does rattling mean?(cracking?)

Quote

PS: The speakers were rattling before I installed the subwoofer so it's not caused by the sub's power consumption.

The speakers are rattling, I just wanted to show off that I installed a sub in my car ????

The rattling means that it sounds like a distortion


CPU: Intel Core i5 4690K 4.5GHz 1.250V Motherboard: GIGABYTE Ga-Z97x Gaming 3 RAM: Total 16GB - Corsair 8GB 1333MHz + Kingston 8GB 1333MHz GPU: Asus Strix GTX 960 2G OC 1533MHz Core, 8GHz Memory Storage: 2x 500GB  HDD, 90GB SSD Kingston HyperX, 1x 250GB HDD Cooler: Fractal Design Kelvin S36 Case: Silverstone Grandia GD10 PSU: FSP Group 700W Keyboard:  A4Tech Bloody B720 Mouse: A4Tech Bloody A60 Blazing V -Track Core 2 White

 

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3 minutes ago, FilipSebik said:

The speakers are rattling, I just wanted to show off that I installed a sub in my car ????

The rattling means that it sounds like a distortion

I think your amp expects 8ohm speakers instead of 4ohm, do you have a model number maybe?

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Posted · Original PosterOP
Just now, timl132 said:

I think your amp expects 8ohm speakers instead of 4ohm, do you have a model number maybe?

I can go look tomorrow but I think it is Sony cdx-gt414u and by reading from sony website, it says 4 x 26W at 4 ohm and 4 x 52W Max at 4 ohm so I was not right. I need to check the speakers for their W rating and if so, could it be that the speakers are underpowered?


CPU: Intel Core i5 4690K 4.5GHz 1.250V Motherboard: GIGABYTE Ga-Z97x Gaming 3 RAM: Total 16GB - Corsair 8GB 1333MHz + Kingston 8GB 1333MHz GPU: Asus Strix GTX 960 2G OC 1533MHz Core, 8GHz Memory Storage: 2x 500GB  HDD, 90GB SSD Kingston HyperX, 1x 250GB HDD Cooler: Fractal Design Kelvin S36 Case: Silverstone Grandia GD10 PSU: FSP Group 700W Keyboard:  A4Tech Bloody B720 Mouse: A4Tech Bloody A60 Blazing V -Track Core 2 White

 

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1 minute ago, FilipSebik said:

I can go look tomorrow but I think it is Sony cdx-gt414u and by reading from sony website, it says 4 x 26W at 4 ohm and 4 x 52W Max at 4 ohm so I was not right. I need to check the speakers for their W rating and if so, could it be that the speakers are underpowered?

More likely overpowered, if they would be underpowered, they would just be quieter They crack when they get too much power..

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Posted · Original PosterOP
Just now, timl132 said:

More likely overpowered, if they would be underpowered, they would just be quieter They crack when they get too much power..

Hmm, I will look for the power rating/model of the speakers, the exact amp/head unit model and the power rating of the speakers but I am sure that the 2 rear ones are 4 ohm and unknown watts. I am going to look now so I wait for the reply (it should take like 10-20 mins)


CPU: Intel Core i5 4690K 4.5GHz 1.250V Motherboard: GIGABYTE Ga-Z97x Gaming 3 RAM: Total 16GB - Corsair 8GB 1333MHz + Kingston 8GB 1333MHz GPU: Asus Strix GTX 960 2G OC 1533MHz Core, 8GHz Memory Storage: 2x 500GB  HDD, 90GB SSD Kingston HyperX, 1x 250GB HDD Cooler: Fractal Design Kelvin S36 Case: Silverstone Grandia GD10 PSU: FSP Group 700W Keyboard:  A4Tech Bloody B720 Mouse: A4Tech Bloody A60 Blazing V -Track Core 2 White

 

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Just now, FilipSebik said:

Hmm, I will look for the power rating/model of the speakers, the exact amp/head unit model and the power rating of the speakers but I am sure that the 2 rear ones are 4 ohm and unknown watts. I am going to look now so I wait for the reply (it should take like 10-20 mins)

Okay, I'll wait.

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Posted · Original PosterOP

So I found out that the head unit/amp is Sony CDX-GT410U

The front speakers are unknown and the rear ones are ARN 5684 which might not be right but I can check for sure tomorrow

 

I couldn't check the front ones because I didn't have a screwdriver on my hand and I couldn't just pop them out


CPU: Intel Core i5 4690K 4.5GHz 1.250V Motherboard: GIGABYTE Ga-Z97x Gaming 3 RAM: Total 16GB - Corsair 8GB 1333MHz + Kingston 8GB 1333MHz GPU: Asus Strix GTX 960 2G OC 1533MHz Core, 8GHz Memory Storage: 2x 500GB  HDD, 90GB SSD Kingston HyperX, 1x 250GB HDD Cooler: Fractal Design Kelvin S36 Case: Silverstone Grandia GD10 PSU: FSP Group 700W Keyboard:  A4Tech Bloody B720 Mouse: A4Tech Bloody A60 Blazing V -Track Core 2 White

 

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11 minutes ago, FilipSebik said:

So I found out that the head unit/amp is Sony CDX-GT410U

The front speakers are unknown and the rear ones are ARN 5684 which might not be right but I can check for sure tomorrow

 

I couldn't check the front ones because I didn't have a screwdriver on my hand and I couldn't just pop them out

Well, the ARN 5684 should be able to take 120W according to the internet. So that's still fine. Would it be possible to get an audio recording?

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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 minute ago, timl132 said:

Well, the ARN 5684 should be able to take 120W according to the internet. So that's still fine. Would it be possible to get an audio recording?

Tomorrow :) at around 7AM +1 central european time or in about 11 hours and 15 minutes from now on


CPU: Intel Core i5 4690K 4.5GHz 1.250V Motherboard: GIGABYTE Ga-Z97x Gaming 3 RAM: Total 16GB - Corsair 8GB 1333MHz + Kingston 8GB 1333MHz GPU: Asus Strix GTX 960 2G OC 1533MHz Core, 8GHz Memory Storage: 2x 500GB  HDD, 90GB SSD Kingston HyperX, 1x 250GB HDD Cooler: Fractal Design Kelvin S36 Case: Silverstone Grandia GD10 PSU: FSP Group 700W Keyboard:  A4Tech Bloody B720 Mouse: A4Tech Bloody A60 Blazing V -Track Core 2 White

 

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1 minute ago, FilipSebik said:

Tomorrow :) at around 7AM +1 central european time or in about 11 hours and 15 minutes from now on

Okay. ;) I'll still be sleeping at that time though. I live in the Netherlands.

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Timeout. Are you saying that you installed a subwoofer without an amplifier? You are using the head unit to power the sub? Max watts mean jack poop, RMS or "nominal" watts is the only number that matters. Distortion could be from blown speakers, bad connections, multiple things.

 

Did you turn it up louder than normal, to "show off" your sub?

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Posted · Original PosterOP
On 10/20/2018 at 8:16 AM, TheFlyingTraut said:

Timeout. Are you saying that you installed a subwoofer without an amplifier? You are using the head unit to power the sub? Max watts mean jack poop, RMS or "nominal" watts is the only number that matters. Distortion could be from blown speakers, bad connections, multiple things.

 

Did you turn it up louder than normal, to "show off" your sub?

No. I installed a subwoofer with an amplifier. The problem are the stock speakers which I blown 1 by playing at high volumes. I can check for the bad connections and then try.

 

Sorry for not replying with the audio recording but I didn't have the time to record it and I forgot about it.

 

MORE STUFF:
The front speakers are ARX-130-46/4

The rear speakers are ARN 6684

The head unit is Sony CDX-GT410U

So, the front are rated 25W RMS and 75W max,

the rear are rated 70W RMS and 140W max.

The radio OUTPUT POWER, AT 4 OHM (W) 4 x 26

MAX. OUTPUT POWER, 1 KHZ AT 4 OHM (W) 4 x 52

So there should be no problem

 


CPU: Intel Core i5 4690K 4.5GHz 1.250V Motherboard: GIGABYTE Ga-Z97x Gaming 3 RAM: Total 16GB - Corsair 8GB 1333MHz + Kingston 8GB 1333MHz GPU: Asus Strix GTX 960 2G OC 1533MHz Core, 8GHz Memory Storage: 2x 500GB  HDD, 90GB SSD Kingston HyperX, 1x 250GB HDD Cooler: Fractal Design Kelvin S36 Case: Silverstone Grandia GD10 PSU: FSP Group 700W Keyboard:  A4Tech Bloody B720 Mouse: A4Tech Bloody A60 Blazing V -Track Core 2 White

 

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your running a installed sony and stock speaker (also depends on age). i have seen stock speakers fail at around 70/30 after putting in a aftermarket unit....especially if the car had only a stock sound system...the upgraded ones (especially the ones with built in stock amps) do the best. i honestly would replace the the fronts  with new ones...you can get pairs of decent speakers for a low price if funds are an issue. and they look to be 6 1/2...the rears though are 8" (i guess sub) woofers so the original deck was set up to supply the bass to the rear and the rest to the front...so you have 2 options now that you added your own sub....replace with a full sound speaker or add tweeters (i did this to my beetle it had woofer rears, i replaced with better woofer and added tweets it screams) if your woofers are fine just add tweets.

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Posted · Original PosterOP
8 minutes ago, circeseye said:

-SNIP-

I found sony speakers which are good and the price is good too but the rear ones are pain in the A$$ to find. The original ones are woofers and they are SO SO BAD at low frequencies that they start to distort (is that even a word?) at volume of 20 and then around 30 they start to excursion (how to time that word?) and go nuts. I will replace them with something that would fit the 20cm hole if I can find a big speakers like that for low price.

And I don't need tweeters because they just r4pe my ears and I am the guy that enjoys the bass

 

Also I can find a wood and get it cut to size to fill the 20cm hole for the rear speakers and use smaller speakers


CPU: Intel Core i5 4690K 4.5GHz 1.250V Motherboard: GIGABYTE Ga-Z97x Gaming 3 RAM: Total 16GB - Corsair 8GB 1333MHz + Kingston 8GB 1333MHz GPU: Asus Strix GTX 960 2G OC 1533MHz Core, 8GHz Memory Storage: 2x 500GB  HDD, 90GB SSD Kingston HyperX, 1x 250GB HDD Cooler: Fractal Design Kelvin S36 Case: Silverstone Grandia GD10 PSU: FSP Group 700W Keyboard:  A4Tech Bloody B720 Mouse: A4Tech Bloody A60 Blazing V -Track Core 2 White

 

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3 hours ago, FilipSebik said:

I found sony speakers which are good and the price is good too but the rear ones are pain in the A$$ to find. The original ones are woofers and they are SO SO BAD at low frequencies that they start to distort (is that even a word?) at volume of 20 and then around 30 they start to excursion (how to time that word?) and go nuts. I will replace them with something that would fit the 20cm hole if I can find a big speakers like that for low price.

And I don't need tweeters because they just r4pe my ears and I am the guy that enjoys the bass

 

Also I can find a wood and get it cut to size to fill the 20cm hole for the rear speakers and use smaller speakers

ah yea...but instead of wood get yourself a piece of sheet metal (or other metal) home depot, ace, lowes, all carry small sheets, different thicknesses. (wood is thick so) then cut it to size and hole for speaker...then use a silicon caulking around where it attaches to car then screw it on....
but look on amazon...they have a lot of 8" speakers, even 3 ways...maybe even a 6x8 then less hole to fill

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Posted · Original PosterOP · Best Answer
12 hours ago, circeseye said:

ah yea...but instead of wood get yourself a piece of sheet metal (or other metal) home depot, ace, lowes, all carry small sheets, different thicknesses. (wood is thick so) then cut it to size and hole for speaker...then use a silicon caulking around where it attaches to car then screw it on....
but look on amazon...they have a lot of 8" speakers, even 3 ways...maybe even a 6x8 then less hole to fill

I don't have lowes or ace and ordering from amazon takes weeks to arrive. I can go to home depot and get the things I need there

 

Also I found that the speakers are so old that the wire that connects to the voice coil is so bad that it has a bad connection and this causes the distortion. So the only way is to replace the speakers.


CPU: Intel Core i5 4690K 4.5GHz 1.250V Motherboard: GIGABYTE Ga-Z97x Gaming 3 RAM: Total 16GB - Corsair 8GB 1333MHz + Kingston 8GB 1333MHz GPU: Asus Strix GTX 960 2G OC 1533MHz Core, 8GHz Memory Storage: 2x 500GB  HDD, 90GB SSD Kingston HyperX, 1x 250GB HDD Cooler: Fractal Design Kelvin S36 Case: Silverstone Grandia GD10 PSU: FSP Group 700W Keyboard:  A4Tech Bloody B720 Mouse: A4Tech Bloody A60 Blazing V -Track Core 2 White

 

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