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_Hustler_One_

Should We Use UPS?

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3 minutes ago, _Hustler_One_ said:

I think I really need a good high reliability UPS then..

So my earlier proposal for $80 APC BX1100LI-MS (1100VA/550W) worth to get?

Or the $110 CyberPower AVRG900U (900VA/480W) is the better investment?

 

Is anyone have other better recommendations to throw here?

Both are approx the same, the APC unit gives you a bit more wattage overhead. For something that would be a step above those would be a pure sinewave unit but as such those are more expensive. 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
11 minutes ago, W-L said:

Both are approx the same, the APC unit gives you a bit more wattage overhead. For something that would be a step above those would be a pure sinewave unit but as such those are more expensive. 

Which one that has higher safety factor between both?


My system specs:

Spoiler

CPU: Intel Core i7-8700K, 5GHz Delidded LM || CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-C14S w/ NF-A15 & NF-A14 Chromax fans in push-pull cofiguration || Motherboard: MSI Z370i Gaming Pro Carbon AC || RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 2x8Gb 2666 || GPU: EVGA GTX 1060 6Gb FTW2+ DT || Storage: Samsung 860 Evo M.2 SATA SSD 250Gb, 2x 2.5" HDDs 1Tb & 500Gb || ODD: 9mm Slim DVD RW || PSU: Corsair SF600 80+ Platinum || Case: Cougar QBX + 1x Noctua NF-R8 front intake + 2x Noctua NF-F12 iPPC top exhaust + Cougar stock 92mm DC fan rear exhaust || Monitor: ASUS VG248QE || Keyboard: Ducky One 2 Mini Cherry MX Red || Mouse: Logitech G703 || Audio: Corsair HS70 Wireless || Other: XBox One S Controler

My build logs:

 

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Just now, _Hustler_One_ said:

Which one that has higher safety factor between both?

Define safety factor, both are approx in the same class I would say as an entry level UPS unit and will be capable to allowing you to save work and safely shut down your system if there is a power outage. 

 

Just to note though the APC unit is for 230V operation and the Cyberpower is 120V. 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 minute ago, W-L said:

Define safety factor, both are approx in the same class I would say as an entry level UPS unit and will be capable to allowing you to save work and safely shut down your system if there is a power outage. 

 

Just to note though the APC unit is for 230V operation and the Cyberpower is 120V. 

My area is living with 220v electricity, so I presume that the APC would be the suitable one? CMIIW


My system specs:

Spoiler

CPU: Intel Core i7-8700K, 5GHz Delidded LM || CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-C14S w/ NF-A15 & NF-A14 Chromax fans in push-pull cofiguration || Motherboard: MSI Z370i Gaming Pro Carbon AC || RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 2x8Gb 2666 || GPU: EVGA GTX 1060 6Gb FTW2+ DT || Storage: Samsung 860 Evo M.2 SATA SSD 250Gb, 2x 2.5" HDDs 1Tb & 500Gb || ODD: 9mm Slim DVD RW || PSU: Corsair SF600 80+ Platinum || Case: Cougar QBX + 1x Noctua NF-R8 front intake + 2x Noctua NF-F12 iPPC top exhaust + Cougar stock 92mm DC fan rear exhaust || Monitor: ASUS VG248QE || Keyboard: Ducky One 2 Mini Cherry MX Red || Mouse: Logitech G703 || Audio: Corsair HS70 Wireless || Other: XBox One S Controler

My build logs:

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
6 minutes ago, W-L said:

Yes if you have 220-230V then that APC unit would be more suitable, for a comparable Cyberpower unit this would be good also. 

 

https://www.cyberpower.com/id/en/product/sku/UT1050E

Hey, it's cheaper than the APC BX1100LI-MS (1100VA/550W) here in my local store.. So would it be best for me to get for what I need on CyberPower UT1050E (1050VA/630W) instead? It costs for $60


My system specs:

Spoiler

CPU: Intel Core i7-8700K, 5GHz Delidded LM || CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-C14S w/ NF-A15 & NF-A14 Chromax fans in push-pull cofiguration || Motherboard: MSI Z370i Gaming Pro Carbon AC || RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 2x8Gb 2666 || GPU: EVGA GTX 1060 6Gb FTW2+ DT || Storage: Samsung 860 Evo M.2 SATA SSD 250Gb, 2x 2.5" HDDs 1Tb & 500Gb || ODD: 9mm Slim DVD RW || PSU: Corsair SF600 80+ Platinum || Case: Cougar QBX + 1x Noctua NF-R8 front intake + 2x Noctua NF-F12 iPPC top exhaust + Cougar stock 92mm DC fan rear exhaust || Monitor: ASUS VG248QE || Keyboard: Ducky One 2 Mini Cherry MX Red || Mouse: Logitech G703 || Audio: Corsair HS70 Wireless || Other: XBox One S Controler

My build logs:

 

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1 minute ago, _Hustler_One_ said:

Hey, it's cheaper than the APC BX1100LI-MS here in my local store.. So would it be best for me to get for what I need on CyberPower UT1050E instead? It costs for $60

Either unit would be able to let you save work and shut down, while still being able to handle all your hardware, peripherals and networking equipment. 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 minute ago, W-L said:

Either unit would be able to let you save work and shut down, while still being able to handle all your hardware, peripherals and networking equipment. 

@Supportsneedlove @Lady Fitzgerald @jonnyGURU @Acecool @W-L @Ryan_Vickers @Donut417

 

Thankyou very much for all your inputs guys.. It really helps me and add me with loads of important knowledge..


My system specs:

Spoiler

CPU: Intel Core i7-8700K, 5GHz Delidded LM || CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-C14S w/ NF-A15 & NF-A14 Chromax fans in push-pull cofiguration || Motherboard: MSI Z370i Gaming Pro Carbon AC || RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 2x8Gb 2666 || GPU: EVGA GTX 1060 6Gb FTW2+ DT || Storage: Samsung 860 Evo M.2 SATA SSD 250Gb, 2x 2.5" HDDs 1Tb & 500Gb || ODD: 9mm Slim DVD RW || PSU: Corsair SF600 80+ Platinum || Case: Cougar QBX + 1x Noctua NF-R8 front intake + 2x Noctua NF-F12 iPPC top exhaust + Cougar stock 92mm DC fan rear exhaust || Monitor: ASUS VG248QE || Keyboard: Ducky One 2 Mini Cherry MX Red || Mouse: Logitech G703 || Audio: Corsair HS70 Wireless || Other: XBox One S Controler

My build logs:

 

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2 hours ago, _Hustler_One_ said:

@Supportsneedlove @Lady Fitzgerald @jonnyGURU @Acecool @W-L @Ryan_Vickers @Donut417

 

Thankyou very much for all your inputs guys.. It really helps me and add me with loads of important knowledge..

Just so you know, if the tag doesn't turn orange like this @_Hustler_One_, it didn't work and didn't notify them.


Solve your own audio issues  |  First Steps with RPi 3  |  Humidity & Condensation  |  Sleep & Hibernation  |  Overclocking RAM  |  Making Backups  |  Displays  |  4K / 8K / 16K / etc.  |  Do I need 80+ Platinum?

If you can read this you're using the wrong theme.  You can change it at the bottom.

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Posted · Original PosterOP
5 minutes ago, Ryan_Vickers said:

Just so you know, if the tag doesn't turn orange like this @_Hustler_One_, it didn't work and didn't notify them.

hahahaha.. how can my tags didn't turn orange???


My system specs:

Spoiler

CPU: Intel Core i7-8700K, 5GHz Delidded LM || CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-C14S w/ NF-A15 & NF-A14 Chromax fans in push-pull cofiguration || Motherboard: MSI Z370i Gaming Pro Carbon AC || RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 2x8Gb 2666 || GPU: EVGA GTX 1060 6Gb FTW2+ DT || Storage: Samsung 860 Evo M.2 SATA SSD 250Gb, 2x 2.5" HDDs 1Tb & 500Gb || ODD: 9mm Slim DVD RW || PSU: Corsair SF600 80+ Platinum || Case: Cougar QBX + 1x Noctua NF-R8 front intake + 2x Noctua NF-F12 iPPC top exhaust + Cougar stock 92mm DC fan rear exhaust || Monitor: ASUS VG248QE || Keyboard: Ducky One 2 Mini Cherry MX Red || Mouse: Logitech G703 || Audio: Corsair HS70 Wireless || Other: XBox One S Controler

My build logs:

 

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Just my 2 cent.

Spending a lot on pc parts and not having a ups to properly protect them is not a good idea. I bought mine only when I transferred to an area with unstable electricity, but if I can go back I would have bought one before. Now I'm also considering to get a cheaper one for the TV etc.

 

Just to give you an idea with a 8700k, 1080ti and double monitor I use a smartups 750VA, that can keep the system powered for about 10 minutes on full load, which is more than enough to shutting it down properly.

Another drawback of bigger ups is the cost of the batteries. My suggestion is to go with the smaller size the  fit your purpose, go big only if you need a lot of "backup" time, like if you use it for work or long operations that cannot be interrupted. 

Also big ups usually come with a fan, which add noise and can be annoying if your system is pretty silent


Latest build: MyPC Liquid Time

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We have quite dirty power where I live that has spikes and quite a lot of brown outs. I use a 3 layer defence:

 

1) Good quality surge suppressor at wall

2) UPS

3) Overspecced PSU both on size and quality

 

The surge suppressor is because a UPS will protect against brownouts but not spikes. An overspecced PSU gives greater leeway as it can take a UPS 10 to 20 milliseconds to switch to battery. It is the PSU capacitors that keep your system running during these crucial milliseconds.

 

My gear is expensive and local power will kill components if rawdogging the wall socket. I lost nearly an entire system just 3 months ago, just the monitor, case, SSD and CPU cooler survived.


~~Kuroneko~~

- Ryzen Threadripper 1950X 16-Core

- Corsair H115i Pro 280 Liquid Cooler

- Asus X399 ROG Zenith Extreme MB

- 2x Nvidia Titan V

- Corsair 64GB (4x16GB) DDR4 3000MHz

- Samsung 960 Pro Series 1TB M.2 SSD

- Western Digital RED Pro 6TB 64M SATA

- Corsair AX1500i Titianium PSU

- Fractal Design Define R6 Blackout

- 3x Noctua NF-A14 Industrial 140mm 3000RPM Fans

 

~~Chibineko~~

- Ryzen 7 2700X 8-Core

- Corsair H115i 280 Liquid Cooler

- Asus X470-F ROG Strix  MB

- 2x MSI Vega 64 Wave Liquid Cooled

- G.Skill Sniper X 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 3600MHz

- Samsung 960 Pro Series 512GB M.2 SSD

- Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD

- Corsair AX1200i 80+ Platinum

- Fractal Design Define R5

- 5x Noctua NF-A14 Industrial 140mm 3000RPM Fans

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9 hours ago, _Hustler_One_ said:

hahahaha.. how can my tags didn't turn orange???

It can be quite fiddly but it should work reliably if you have patience.  Type the @ then enough of their name that they show up in the list, then pick them from the list.  If it doesn't work, delete everything back to and including the @ and try again.


Solve your own audio issues  |  First Steps with RPi 3  |  Humidity & Condensation  |  Sleep & Hibernation  |  Overclocking RAM  |  Making Backups  |  Displays  |  4K / 8K / 16K / etc.  |  Do I need 80+ Platinum?

If you can read this you're using the wrong theme.  You can change it at the bottom.

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7 hours ago, Uzume said:

We have quite dirty power where I live that has spikes and quite a lot of brown outs. I use a 3 layer defence:

 

1) Good quality surge suppressor at wall

2) UPS

3) Overspecced PSU both on size and quality

 

The surge suppressor is because a UPS will protect against brownouts but not spikes. An overspecced PSU gives greater leeway as it can take a UPS 10 to 20 milliseconds to switch to battery. It is the PSU capacitors that keep your system running during these crucial milliseconds.

 

My gear is expensive and local power will kill components if rawdogging the wall socket. I lost nearly an entire system just 3 months ago, just the monitor, case, SSD and CPU cooler survived.

I have several concerns here.

  1. I've heard that plugging a UPS into a surge protector (or stacking/chaining surge protectors of any kind) is bad and can actually reduce overall protection
  2. UPS (at least a good one) will actually protect against spikes
  3. Even a cheap UPS should switch in ~4ms or so, not 10 to 20.
    • Even if it did take that long even a cheap PSU should handle it

Perhaps @jonnyGURU would be so kind as to shed some light on this :P


Solve your own audio issues  |  First Steps with RPi 3  |  Humidity & Condensation  |  Sleep & Hibernation  |  Overclocking RAM  |  Making Backups  |  Displays  |  4K / 8K / 16K / etc.  |  Do I need 80+ Platinum?

If you can read this you're using the wrong theme.  You can change it at the bottom.

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I have to concur with @Ryan_Vickers. Many UPS's have surge suppression built in. You are not suppose to connect a surge protector to a surge protector. Also, if you were to over load the surge suppressor at the wall or the UPS you may cause a fire. 

 

8 hours ago, Uzume said:

UPS will protect against brownouts but not spikes

Mine protects against spikes dude. It kicks to battery if the voltage goes above what I have set. Most UPS's have have owned have this feature. You pick a min and max voltage, if it goes outside the range it kicks to battery. On top of the fact the UPS's I have owned have also allowed me to set sensitivity to changes as well, making it more or less responsive. 

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Just downloaded the full documentation for the Eaton 5E 900watt/1500VA units I am using and it does mention power surge protection, though the shorter brochures hadn't mentioned this so I had previously assumed it was absent on this range. I have removed the surge protector at wall, thanks for the heads up guys. 

 

This documentation gives a switching time of 4~8 ms (max 10ms).


~~Kuroneko~~

- Ryzen Threadripper 1950X 16-Core

- Corsair H115i Pro 280 Liquid Cooler

- Asus X399 ROG Zenith Extreme MB

- 2x Nvidia Titan V

- Corsair 64GB (4x16GB) DDR4 3000MHz

- Samsung 960 Pro Series 1TB M.2 SSD

- Western Digital RED Pro 6TB 64M SATA

- Corsair AX1500i Titianium PSU

- Fractal Design Define R6 Blackout

- 3x Noctua NF-A14 Industrial 140mm 3000RPM Fans

 

~~Chibineko~~

- Ryzen 7 2700X 8-Core

- Corsair H115i 280 Liquid Cooler

- Asus X470-F ROG Strix  MB

- 2x MSI Vega 64 Wave Liquid Cooled

- G.Skill Sniper X 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 3600MHz

- Samsung 960 Pro Series 512GB M.2 SSD

- Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD

- Corsair AX1200i 80+ Platinum

- Fractal Design Define R5

- 5x Noctua NF-A14 Industrial 140mm 3000RPM Fans

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13 hours ago, Donut417 said:

I once saw my window air conditioner kick on and it sent a surge that killed the OS drive in my machine. This is why I invested in a UPS. They are handy if you live in an area with shitty power. 

That's not right.  What kind of PSU? 

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2 hours ago, jonnyGURU said:

That's not right.  What kind of PSU? 

It was an old Raidmax unit that Im no longer using. However, large appliances like Air conditioners can cause surges, and the air conditioner is ran on the same 15 amp circuit as the computer, on 1950's wiring. All I know is the compressor kicked on and my machine locked up and wouldnt boot. I determined it was the drive. 

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19 hours ago, Donut417 said:

It was an old Raidmax unit that Im no longer using. 

Oh.  That's why.

 

A quality PSU would never have let that happen.

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