Jump to content

PC Will Randomly Turn Off, Then Get Stuck In A Boot Loop

Got a problem.. been going on for months. Can't figure it out on my own. My computer will randomly turn off on itself, get stuck in a boot loop, and then randomly work for: 10 mins, several hours, or even several days before it will randomly turn off on itself again. When the computer turns off, it will automatically try and turn it self back on, sometimes it will then turn off and turn back on several times at different times. Sometimes immediately within a half second or less it turned on, sometimes at the DRAM light, sometimes at the BOOT light. Other times it will turn off just as soon as the windows login screen opens. Some other weird side effects that happen: My keyboard and Mouse won't light up/work till a few seconds after the windows loin screen is up. If I want to go into the bios after my computer has randomly turned off. I have to manually hold the power on the case to turn off the PC and then reboot so my keyboard will work at the splash screen. ALSO side effect I have EVERYTIME I turn on my PC is my Astros Headset doesn't work unless I unplug the USB from the Base Station or from the computer itself.. not sure what that's about.
 
Some things I've tried. I messaged Corsair. Got a brand new replacement PSU, Messaged Asus, after several grueling months of terrible customer service. I got a replacement board sent to me.. it's a refurb board.. Still super ticked off about that whole entire situation.. but got them to give me an entire year of warranty added. I have booted from one stick, two sticks, and four. Seeing if it was a RAM problem. Will boot and run with all four sticks individually. I have also swapped out my old Corsair CPU Cooler for a new one, changing out the thermal paste and making sure it was all perfect.
 
I've also monitored the task manager, watching all of it while it turns off on itself, nothing out of the ordinary when it decides to turn off, have also monitored thermals and same thing, nothing out of the ordinary when it turns off.
 
I've also changed my boot from a M.2 to a cloned SSD removing both devices to see if one would work over the other.. still no change.
 
I'm just short of selling the entire damn Machine and starting new!! It's been going on since January. Have tried several things to get it to work..


I've got:
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Luxe PH-ES614LTG_BK Black Aluminum Exterior/Steel Chassis/Tempered Glass Panel, Full Tower ATX Case
Processor: Intel Core i7-7700K Unlocked Processor 8M Cache, up to 4.50 GHz, Quad-Core
RAM: G.SKILL 32GB (4 x 8GB) TridentZ RGB Series DDR4 PC4-30900 3866MHz Desktop Memory
Graphics Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 GAMING, 11G-P4-6696-KR
Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX Z270E GAMING
PSU: Corsair AXi Series, AX860i | CP-9020037-NA
CPU Cooler: CORSAIR HYDRO SERIES H150i PRO RGB AIO Liquid CPU Cooler | CW-9060031-WW
Case Fans: Corsair HD Series HD140 RGB LED 140mm High Performance RGB LED PWM Dual Fans with Controller Cooling
Storage-Boot: Samsung 960 PRO NVMe M.2 512GB SSD (MZ-V6P512BW)
Storage-Games: Samsung 860 PRO 512GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76P512BW)

External Storage-Games: Seagate Expansion 8TB Desktop External Hard Drive USB 3.0
Optical Drive: Pioneer - BDR-211UBK Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
Operating System: Windows 10 Pro, Creators Update

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you tried this setup in a different location, like someone's home? It may be a power delivery problem from the wall

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

One of the things that I would try would be to remove all the drives with the exception of the boot drive.  I am assuming the boot drive is the NVME drive so leave that hooked up but disconnect the others including any CD-Rom drive.  Of course you want to do this while the machine is turned off.

 

With just the one boot drive hooked up, my next step would be to make sure the BIOS indicated just the NVME drive and then with that done, use a Windows Media Creation Tool to do a complete fresh install of Windows to the NVME drive.  Once the install is complete, try using the machine for whatever reason such as browsing the internet, watching YouTube videos, etc., to see if the problem comes back.  Let us know if the machine works the way it should.  If it does, then reconnect the other drives but connect them one at a time with a complete reboot in-between hook ups so that we can try to figure out if the problem is with the operating system or with one of your other devices.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, kb5zue said:

One of the things that I would try would be to remove all the drives with the exception of the boot drive.  I am assuming the boot drive is the NVME drive so leave that hooked up but disconnect the others including any CD-Rom drive.  Of course you want to do this while the machine is turned off.

 

With just the one boot drive hooked up, my next step would be to make sure the BIOS indicated just the NVME drive and then with that done, use a Windows Media Creation Tool to do a complete fresh install of Windows to the NVME drive.  Once the install is complete, try using the machine for whatever reason such as browsing the internet, watching YouTube videos, etc., to see if the problem comes back.  Let us know if the machine works the way it should.  If it does, then reconnect the other drives but connect them one at a time with a complete reboot in-between hook ups so that we can try to figure out if the problem is with the operating system or with one of your other devices.

On top of this, try less ram for an extended period of time, or no graphics card. Removing components and then trying normal use will help you out. Also, you didn't mention it above, but I assume you did a BIOS update?

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like an issue with the install drive. I would call it very unlikely for a Samsung SSD to have an issue, but it isn't impossible. You may have a faulty sector somewhere on the drive that causes the system to lock up. It may be attempting to access or repair that sector on boot, causing the boot to fail. You could run a chkdsk on the drive, take a look at it on CrystalDiskInfo, or install the OS to another drive temporarily to see if that resolves the issue.

QUOTE ME IF YOU WANT A REPLY!

 

PC #1

Ryzen 7 3700x@4.4ghz (All core) | MSI X470 Gaming Pro Carbon | Crucial Ballistix 2x16gb (OC 3600mhz)

MSI GTX 1080 8gb | SoundBlaster ZXR | Corsair HX850

Samsung 960 256gb | Samsung 860 1gb | Samsung 850 500gb

HGST 4tb, HGST 2tb | Seagate 2tb | Seagate 2tb

Custom CPU/GPU water loop

 

PC #2

Ryzen 7 1700@3.8ghz (All core) | Aorus AX370 Gaming K5 | Vengeance LED 3200mhz 2x8gb

Sapphire R9 290x 4gb | Asus Xonar DS | Corsair RM650

Samsung 850 128gb | Intel 240gb | Seagate 2tb

Corsair H80iGT AIO

 

Laptop

Core i7 6700HQ | Samsung 2400mhz 2x8gb DDR4

GTX 1060M 3gb | FiiO E10k DAC

Samsung 950 256gb | Sandisk Ultra 2tb SSD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, fasauceome said:

Have you tried this setup in a different location, like someone's home? It may be a power delivery problem from the wall

I have not tried plugging the machine into another location. But my Dad is an electrician and I will have him see if there is something wrong with the power to the house or to this wall socket.. pretty sure there will not be, have not had this problem forever. PC was built back in January/February of 2017 and just now having problems in February/March of this year.

5 minutes ago, kb5zue said:

One of the things that I would try would be to remove all the drives with the exception of the boot drive.  I am assuming the boot drive is the NVME drive so leave that hooked up but disconnect the others including any CD-Rom drive.  Of course you want to do this while the machine is turned off.

 

With just the one boot drive hooked up, my next step would be to make sure the BIOS indicated just the NVME drive and then with that done, use a Windows Media Creation Tool to do a complete fresh install of Windows to the NVME drive.  Once the install is complete, try using the machine for whatever reason such as browsing the internet, watching YouTube videos, etc., to see if the problem comes back.  Let us know if the machine works the way it should.  If it does, then reconnect the other drives but connect them one at a time with a complete reboot in-between hook ups so that we can try to figure out if the problem is with the operating system or with one of your other devices.

I have sorta done this.. I haven't tried the fresh install will do that now. I did clear my SSD and then clone my M.2 to the SSD to see if I had a bad M.2 but the problem still existed. I also downloaded a utility from Samsung that updated the drivers and firmware on both devices but still problem existed.
I will try a fresh install and see what happens.

 
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, dogger20011 said:

Sounds like an issue with the install drive. I would call it very unlikely for a Samsung SSD to have an issue, but it isn't impossible. You may have a faulty sector somewhere on the drive that causes the system to lock up. It may be attempting to access or repair that sector on boot, causing the boot to fail. You could run a chkdsk on the drive, take a look at it on CrystalDiskInfo, or install the OS to another drive temporarily to see if that resolves the issue.

Yeah, going to unplug my External Drive, and my SSD, then try a fresh install on my M.2... hopefully something like that fixes my issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, JAKERS94 said:

Yeah, going to unplug my External Drive, and my SSD, then try a fresh install on my M.2... hopefully something like that fixes my issue.

That may be able to fix it, but its possible that its a hardware issue on the drive. Definitely test it out first.

 

P.S. What are you shooting in your profile pic?

QUOTE ME IF YOU WANT A REPLY!

 

PC #1

Ryzen 7 3700x@4.4ghz (All core) | MSI X470 Gaming Pro Carbon | Crucial Ballistix 2x16gb (OC 3600mhz)

MSI GTX 1080 8gb | SoundBlaster ZXR | Corsair HX850

Samsung 960 256gb | Samsung 860 1gb | Samsung 850 500gb

HGST 4tb, HGST 2tb | Seagate 2tb | Seagate 2tb

Custom CPU/GPU water loop

 

PC #2

Ryzen 7 1700@3.8ghz (All core) | Aorus AX370 Gaming K5 | Vengeance LED 3200mhz 2x8gb

Sapphire R9 290x 4gb | Asus Xonar DS | Corsair RM650

Samsung 850 128gb | Intel 240gb | Seagate 2tb

Corsair H80iGT AIO

 

Laptop

Core i7 6700HQ | Samsung 2400mhz 2x8gb DDR4

GTX 1060M 3gb | FiiO E10k DAC

Samsung 950 256gb | Sandisk Ultra 2tb SSD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, dogger20011 said:

P.S. What are you shooting in your profile pic?

It's a Winchester 30/30 Lever Action

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

ScreenShot

Screen1.PNG

Edited by JAKERS94
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

My guess is maybe, the BCD or Boot Configuration Data is messed up, seems to be common in Windows 10. In the BIOS, do you boot from the same drive your OS is actually installed on? Does it blue screen or just shut down and restart?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, ZacoAttaco said:

My guess is maybe, the BCD or Boot Configuration Data is messed up, seems to be common in Windows 10. In the BIOS, do you boot from the same drive your OS is actually installed on? Does it blue screen or just shut down and restart?

Just powers off, then powers back on. Never once had a blue screen, nothing weird happens before it turns off. No lag, no studder, nothing. Just turns immediately off then back on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

*Update!* Running JUST the NVMe M.2 the PC randomly turned off, booted back up just fine. Got to the windows login screen, about 7 seconds later my Keyboard and Mouse started working, logged in. And now typing all this info in. Without unpluggin and replugging in my headset they don't work.

Edited by JAKERS94
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

30 minutes ago, JAKERS94 said:

*Update!* Running JUST the NVMe M.2 the PC randomly turned off, booted back up just fine. Got to the windows login screen, about 7 seconds later my Keyboard and Mouse started working, logged in. And now typing all this info in. Without unpluggin and replugging in my headset they don't work.

So the system didn't like too many drives plugged in? So it could be this boot configuration data that's the issue. Sometimes when Windows installs occur it can store install data and boot data on multiple drives and it can get confused. So your system/BIOS could get confused and try and boot of the wrong drive. If there's only one drive then it can't get confused.

 

Can you clarify what you meant by the headset unplugging/plugged in?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, ZacoAttaco said:

So the system didn't like too many drives plugged in? So it could be this boot configuration data that's the issue. Sometimes when Windows installs occur it can store install data and boot data on multiple drives and it can get confused. So your system/BIOS could get confused and try and boot of the wrong drive. If there's only one drive then it can't get confused.

 

Can you clarify what you meant by the headset unplugging/plugged in?

No, the system still randomly turns off and does the reboot thing on it's own with just the NVMe M.2 only.

My USB's seem to be acting weird. When My PC boots up it takes a good while for the Keyboard and Mouse to *connect* to my computer, displaying the RGB and able to type and move the mouse on screen. When I get logged in and try running a program with sound, no sound is sent to my headset. Only by unplugging and plugging my headset's USB cable will they work. (ASTRO Gaming A50 Wireless Dolby Gaming Headset - Black/Green - Xbox One + PC)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Open up command prompt and type 'chkdsk /f C:'

 

This will run a check disk scan on your next boot. If that doesn't fix the issue, reinstall windows. If that doesn't fix it, contact Samsung about getting a replacement SSD.

QUOTE ME IF YOU WANT A REPLY!

 

PC #1

Ryzen 7 3700x@4.4ghz (All core) | MSI X470 Gaming Pro Carbon | Crucial Ballistix 2x16gb (OC 3600mhz)

MSI GTX 1080 8gb | SoundBlaster ZXR | Corsair HX850

Samsung 960 256gb | Samsung 860 1gb | Samsung 850 500gb

HGST 4tb, HGST 2tb | Seagate 2tb | Seagate 2tb

Custom CPU/GPU water loop

 

PC #2

Ryzen 7 1700@3.8ghz (All core) | Aorus AX370 Gaming K5 | Vengeance LED 3200mhz 2x8gb

Sapphire R9 290x 4gb | Asus Xonar DS | Corsair RM650

Samsung 850 128gb | Intel 240gb | Seagate 2tb

Corsair H80iGT AIO

 

Laptop

Core i7 6700HQ | Samsung 2400mhz 2x8gb DDR4

GTX 1060M 3gb | FiiO E10k DAC

Samsung 950 256gb | Sandisk Ultra 2tb SSD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, JAKERS94 said:

My USB's seem to be acting weird. When My PC boots up it takes a good while for the Keyboard and Mouse to *connect* to my computer, displaying the RGB and able to type and move the mouse on screen. When I get logged in and try running a program with sound, no sound is sent to my headset. Only by unplugging and plugging my headset's USB cable will they work. (ASTRO Gaming A50 Wireless Dolby Gaming Headset - Black/Green - Xbox One + PC)

Ok, could it be some sort of a fast-boot you have enabled in the BIOS? Could be not initializing drivers for a good while?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

*Update!*
I have started all over.. I did a fresh clean remove everything from the M.2 and reinstalled Windows 10 from CD onto M.2
I downloaded only, Samsung Magician and GeForce Experience to update drivers. Was only using Microsoft Edge and computer  still randomly turned off on me.
I went back through and have tried all sticks of RAM individually and in sets of twos. Still computer keeps turning off on me. I have not messed with any BIOS settings for booting the PC.
Still having troubles with USB's and such. Does anyone know of a place I can just take my PC too and they can look at it or test parts.. Cause at this point in time it's getting to be ridiculous and super annoying to try and fix. (Houston, Texas area)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, dogger20011 said:

Open up command prompt and type 'chkdsk /f C:'

 

This will run a check disk scan on your next boot. If that doesn't fix the issue, reinstall windows. If that doesn't fix it, contact Samsung about getting a replacement SSD.

Don't think it's my SSD. I bought a brand new M.2 when I first built my PC, and then when these problems arrived I bought a brand new 860 Pro SSD and have done a full clean install on it as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, JAKERS94 said:

Don't think it's my SSD. I bought a brand new M.2 when I first built my PC, and then when these problems arrived I bought a brand new 860 Pro SSD and have done a full clean install on it as well.

Did you run the chkdsk?

QUOTE ME IF YOU WANT A REPLY!

 

PC #1

Ryzen 7 3700x@4.4ghz (All core) | MSI X470 Gaming Pro Carbon | Crucial Ballistix 2x16gb (OC 3600mhz)

MSI GTX 1080 8gb | SoundBlaster ZXR | Corsair HX850

Samsung 960 256gb | Samsung 860 1gb | Samsung 850 500gb

HGST 4tb, HGST 2tb | Seagate 2tb | Seagate 2tb

Custom CPU/GPU water loop

 

PC #2

Ryzen 7 1700@3.8ghz (All core) | Aorus AX370 Gaming K5 | Vengeance LED 3200mhz 2x8gb

Sapphire R9 290x 4gb | Asus Xonar DS | Corsair RM650

Samsung 850 128gb | Intel 240gb | Seagate 2tb

Corsair H80iGT AIO

 

Laptop

Core i7 6700HQ | Samsung 2400mhz 2x8gb DDR4

GTX 1060M 3gb | FiiO E10k DAC

Samsung 950 256gb | Sandisk Ultra 2tb SSD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, dogger20011 said:

Did you run the chkdsk?

yes, nothing happened / popped up or came up on screen. Just rebooted after that and that's it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, dogger20011 said:

Did you run the chkdsk?

 

IMG_1605.jpg

IMG_1606.jpg

IMG_1608.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

*Update!*
It's come to my attention finally by a friend trying to help diagnose problem. He went back and checked my build on PC Part Picker, nothing popped up. BUT when we went and looked at the QVL for the RAM and Motherboard. They don't entirely line up. The RAM I have is RGB, it's twin sister NON-RGB is on the QVL.. so at the time of building we just thought well they just didn't test the RGB Version.. welllll talking to both GSKILLZ and ASUS both of them say it's more then likely the RAM that's causing my PC to turn off and Boot Cycle..

Any ideas/comments on this theory would be great. I can either sell current RAM, and buy new RAM. OR Buy new Moab and CPU that fits RAM... suggestions on that one as well


Curent Build:
ASUS ROG Strix Z270E Gaming LGA1151 DDR4 DP HDMI DVI M.2 ATX Motherboard with onboard AC WiFi and USB 3.1
Intel Core i7-7700K Desktop Processor 4 Cores up to 4.5 GHz unlocked LGA 1151 100/200 Series 91W
G.SKILL 32GB (4 x 8GB) TridentZ RGB Series DDR4 PC4-30900 3866MHz Desktop Memory Model F4-3866C18Q-32GTZR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, JAKERS94 said:

*Update!*
It's come to my attention finally by a friend trying to help diagnose problem. He went back and checked my build on PC Part Picker, nothing popped up. BUT when we went and looked at the QVL for the RAM and Motherboard. They don't entirely line up. The RAM I have is RGB, it's twin sister NON-RGB is on the QVL.. so at the time of building we just thought well they just didn't test the RGB Version.. welllll talking to both GSKILLZ and ASUS both of them say it's more then likely the RAM that's causing my PC to turn off and Boot Cycle..

Any ideas/comments on this theory would be great. I can either sell current RAM, and buy new RAM. OR Buy new Moab and CPU that fits RAM... suggestions on that one as well

Fair enough, sometimes PC Part Picker can be a little inconsistent in their offerings, sometimes certain components aren't available etc.

 

Can you see any differences it specs between the RGB and Non-RGB versions? If there are differences then we could assume it's a RAM compatibility issue.

 

Definitely continuing talking to ASUS and G Skillz. Seems like you're on the right path.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

Update... still having problems..

I've done everything under the sun, other then replace the PC Case, litterly almost brand new PC same PC Case....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×