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aluminum + nickel reaction (im CRAZY)

Adab5

i have the a360g kit with extra 360MM rad so 2 raditor and d5 pump, the kit is ALL ALUMINUM from fluidgaming series 

 

the new rtx series is now out, and ek dont give a s**** about the fluid gaming customers, and put on sale only nickel waterblock, and they dont even plan to pruduce an aluminum block 

for the rtx that made of aluminum for the fluid gaming customers , in the next 6 to 9 monts 

so first of alll, altugh the fluid gaming is a best value in terms of colling per money, i will not recomannd it since ek dont realy support this kit, and leave it behind for 6-9 monts in every thing they putting on the reguler site

 

so long story short, i purched a 2080 ti and i will purch a nickel waterblock https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/waterblock/3831109813140

and i will mix aluminum with nikel !!!!!!!! (omg im so crazy and stupid )  - and i will come  back after 6 months to say if i servived this

 

my qustion is , do you think (and i need answers that not based on what ek sayes) what do you thniks is gonna happen to my loop ? is there somone that think that the danger is  not real and nothing will happen ?? or that somthing that will realy damage the loop is unlikly to happen (atleast for a year or 2 )

i need to hear opinions!!!!!!!!!! 

thanks all

 

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bad things will definitely happen. Schools should make ECS (electrochemical series) part of the mandatory courses.

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Image result for copper aluminum corrosion

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1 hour ago, Adab5 said:

-SNIP-

 

There is a reason why mixed metal loops are not recommended and why the manufacture has warnings on every single copper based product to not mix it with aluminum. Even with the correct anti-corrosives it only delays the potential of galvanic corrosion. 

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14 minutes ago, W-L said:

There is a reason why mixed metal loops are not recommended and why the manufacture has warnings on every single copper based product to not mix it with aluminum. Even with the correct anti-corrosives it only delays the potential of galvanic corrosion. 

 

Where can I buy (I will be happy for a link in amazon or somthing like this) a right anti corrosive ? 

And coroosion, how much time are we talking til it take place? The loop will run only for 1 single year, can’t I do somthing to delay the danger??

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1 minute ago, Adab5 said:

Where can I buy (I will be happy for a link in amazon or somthing like this) a right anti corrosive ? 

And coroosion, how much time are we talking til it take place? The loop will run only for 1 single year, can’t I do somthing to delay the danger??

I can't in anyway recommend doing a mixed metal loop these days, you're going to run into trouble with them regardless of how well one preps for it even using all the correct products. There is a specific reason why many of the Thermaltake kits are not well regarded due to their insistence on using mixed metal loops. 

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49 minutes ago, W-L said:

I can't in anyway recommend doing a mixed metal loop these days, you're going to run into trouble with them regardless of how well one preps for it even using all the correct products. There is a specific reason why many of the Thermaltake kits are not well regarded due to their insistence on using mixed metal loops. 

 

Listion my love 

I’m a crazy m******

and I will do it, with or without your blessing, cause I can’t play with card that he is not liquid cool, and that is my only solution until those fuc**** in ek will desicde to make an aluminum plate which is 6 to 9 months 

help me minimize damage! Help me live with mix metals only 6 to 9 months pls!! You are my only hope 

 

after the 6 months I will buy the aluminum water block I promise you, I won’t blame I you if it doesn’t work, what can I do to just minimize damage, anything!

 

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9 minutes ago, Adab5 said:

after the 6 months I will buy the aluminum water block I promise you, I won’t blame I you if it doesn’t work, what can I do to just minimize damage, anything!

Soooo, your plan is to just swap in the aluminum block once you purchased it? You do understand that there is a good chance your loop will already be damaged beyond repair at this point, so even if you swap this one copper part, particles are in the system and happily eating away practically your whole loop.

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15 minutes ago, Adab5 said:

-SNIP-

As cynexit your essentially risking the whole loop being scrapped by the time you get the new block. If you want to watercool the GPU temporarily until the aluminum block comes out your best off to use an AIO with an adapter bracket or directly move over to a copper based loop. 

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53 minutes ago, W-L said:

As cynexit your essentially risking the whole loop being scrapped by the time you get the new block. If you want to watercool the GPU temporarily until the aluminum block comes out your best off to use an AIO with an adapter bracket or directly move over to a copper based loop. 

 

I have 360 sip- I can’t find any adapter bracket, there is no one for the 2080..

ans all copper it’s to expensive, I already paid 350$ for the fluid gaming, another 600-700$ it’s somthing  I won’t do

im out of options :( any other idea ??

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4 minutes ago, Adab5 said:

 

I have 360 sip- I can’t find any adapter bracket, there is no one for the 2080..

ans all copper it’s to expensive, I already paid 350$ for the fluid gaming, another 600-700$ it’s somthing  I won’t do

im out of options :( any other idea ??

The NZXT G12 works with any asetek AIO and shouldn’t be an issue with the 20xx series of GPU’s.

 

https://www.nzxt.com/product-overview/kraken-g12

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1 hour ago, Adab5 said:

 

I dont understand this obsession of watercooling the card from day 1? the way to minimize damage is to leave the aircooled until a suitablr waterblock comes out.

 

The fluid gaming series is supposed to cater for a lower budget group and therefore is not EKWBs priority. If the customer is rich enough to shell out for every new graphics card, then they should just go for the normal radiators and fittings. If EKWB has stated they may release aluminium blocks within a year, if i were you id be thanking EK as opposed to ranting.

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Once you get 2080ti try to fit it with a cpu aluminium block. This way you can avoid galvanic corosion. As for VRAM and VRM just glue some passive heatsink onto them and put a good 120mm fan under the gpu. I think it will work till EK make aluminium watrblock for 2080 ti.

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14 hours ago, W-L said:

There is a reason why mixed metal loops are not recommended

Because that's a battery.

You have a lower and a higher grade metal and a fluid (usually a corrosive one like an acid type)...

 

one of those metals corrodes the others (forgot wich one). And you have a voltage between those.

 

Nothing else is a battery:
two different metals and a fluid between them...

 

And IIRC (not sure) that leads to some kind of electrolysis, wich is a very very bad thing...

 

15 hours ago, Adab5 said:

and i will mix aluminum with nikel !!!!!!!! (omg im so crazy and stupid )  - and i will come  back after 6 months to say if i servived this

Get an apple

Put a piece of copper and a piece of nicel in it.

Get a voltage meter

 

Connect the leads of the voltage meter to the metal pieces coming out of the apple...

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13 hours ago, Adab5 said:

and I will do it, with or without your blessing,

Read this:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolysis

That's more or less what's happening inside the Waterloop.

 

And every voltage you generate due to the differences increases the corrosion of the materials.

 

And we aren't talking about years for the damage to occur, we are talking about weeks, maybe even days. Depending on the temperature, what kind of water (=what other materials are inside the Water as Water is neverreally pure and tends to gather other things, so destilled water won't be destilled long) and so on...

 

 

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59 minutes ago, Stefan Payne said:

Read this:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolysis

That's more or less what's happening inside the Waterloop.

Correct term is galvanic corrosion... just like what happens in galvanic cells we call batteries.

And it's huge pain in the butt for any kind mechanical engineering involving building structures from metals.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

 

With more anodic material getting eaten...

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/

 

 

13 hours ago, Adab5 said:

ans all copper it’s to expensive, I already paid 350$ for the fluid gaming, another 600-700$ it’s somthing  I won’t do

Get over marketing lines: There is no good, long term reliable, cheap water cooling.

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If you have an aluminum loop, you shouldn’t be getting the rtx cards anyway. That’s why ek shouldn’t care about it. 

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38 minutes ago, Mick Naughty said:

If you have an aluminum loop, you shouldn’t be getting the rtx cards anyway. That’s why ek shouldn’t care about it. 

 

14 hours ago, For Science! said:

I dont understand this obsession of watercooling the card from day 1? the way to minimize damage is to leave the aircooled until a suitablr waterblock comes out.

 

The fluid gaming series is supposed to cater for a lower budget group and therefore is not EKWBs priority. If the customer is rich enough to shell out for every new graphics card, then they should just go for the normal radiators and fittings. If EKWB has stated they may release aluminium blocks within a year, if i were you id be thanking EK as opposed to ranting.

I do not agree with both of you, 

Wtf are you guys talk about??? Rtx is for rich and fluidgaming is for poor? 

You little overreacting, there is an rtx cards starting at 500$ 

 

And you forget one thing

what about people like me, that can afford a regular custom loop BUT DONT SEE THE POINT ON PAYING 800$ for a fucking custom loop, when you can get a custom loop with almost identical colling power in fucking half a price?!? 

4 hours ago, MaratM said:

Once you get 2080ti try to fit it with a cpu aluminium block. This way you can avoid galvanic corosion. As for VRAM and VRM just glue some passive heatsink onto them and put a good 120mm fan under the gpu. I think it will work till EK make aluminium watrblock for 2080 ti.

Interesting... 

but how I stick the cpu block to to the core of the 2080ti , there is no screws for that

 

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Then don't complain about the lack of block support. That's what Im talking about. But yes fluid gaming is for the lower end or common, given the support. That much is clear. Surprises me they don't have a block ready given they are refence, but you could have seen that coming.

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1 hour ago, Adab5 said:

 

And you forget one thing

what about people like me, that can afford a regular custom loop BUT DONT SEE THE POINT ON PAYING 800$ for a fucking custom loop, when you can get a custom loop with almost identical colling power in fucking half a price?!?

 

This is market segmentation, you are clearly seeing first hand for a reason why you should have bought the non-fluid gaming series. You can't complain that those who have bought a first class plane ticket get to go on the plane first. EKWB has interests in making sure that there is a point in buying higher end parts. People like you should be patient, you're paying less, don't expect to be treated the same as somebody who is willing to pay more.

 

To me,  you're the one overreacting. If you want better treatment, then you're going to have to pay more. Simple.

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See, they get it ^^^

 

So the answer is to build a second loop, so that's costing more money? Doing it right the first time would have been the correct choice.

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2 hours ago, Adab5 said:

but how I stick the cpu block to to the core of the 2080ti , there is no screws for that

According to gamersnexus teardown video mounting holes for rtx2080ti are 98,5 mm diagonaly which gives us around 70mm x 70mm mounting pattern

Ek aluminium cpu waterblock is compatible with almost all consumer grade cpu sockets starting from lga 775 which is the smallest 72x72 mm. Thus with a little bit of patience and a small round file the mounting plate of ek’s waterblok can be easily moded to 70x70 mounting holes. And after mounted on the gpu die with bolts and plastick washers and nuts (m3 usually) found in any hardware store. Few measurments have to be taken. The hight of the die taking pcb as a starting point and distance from the bottom of the cpu waterblock to bottom of the mounting plate. Add them together and this is the hight of the “spacer” (a stack of nylon washers) between the pcb and a mounting plate.

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My understanding is that aluminium is considered an inferior/budget metal to build loop components out of which is probably why they hven't bothered to support it well.  I'm not sure why this is the case but one guess would be that it's incompatible with liquid metal, while nickel handles it with only minor staining that doesn't even hurt performance.

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One word on combining Aluminum and Copper.  While I was in engineering an electrical engineering student that was working on the same research project as me ordered for copper fittings to be put into an aluminum electronics enclosure.  When the part arrived from shipping it had already corroded beyond being usable.  Don't mix metals, it will destroy everything.

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I'd strongly suggest either keeping the stock cooler or waiting to buy a RTX card until they support it, but where did you hear that they wouldn't be releasing the blocks for 6-9 months?

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