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Chilling Threadripper 2!!!

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2 minutes ago, rcmaehl said:

Still shows as unlisted for me

They post the videos on the forum a few minutes before they publish them. 

:)

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I'd like to point out a small single fan 120 air cooler could cool Threadripper, It's not that hot of a chip, but I'm not surprised at LTT's shenanigans at all *coughWholeRoomWaterCoolingcough*
 

 

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He bought a fountain pump.  They are meant to circulate water with zero resistance, they are not pressure pumps which is what you need for watercooling.  This guy is supposedly an engineer and swear to fucking god he doesn't know how to read specs or *be* an engineer.  Every video is some fuckup that was prevantable.

 

Second, there's no point in running antifreeze because the chiller won't go below about 1C anyways unless you hack around the thermocouple in it.

 

Third, 580W is pussy shit.  I drew that much power on a 7700K on chilled water with 1.6V pushing for 5.5Ghz.  You should have saved this video for a CPU that can actually overclock, like the upcoming 28C HEDT.  In any case you need the bigger Hailea-HC2000 to not run out of chilling capacity.  This one is a baby unit.

 

Fourth, no you should not attempt to integrate this into a desktop system.  It's too loud to live with, you're not going to make it more compact than it already is, and it's meant to run with a large reservoir for a reason.

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17 minutes ago, AlexTheGreatish said:

 

You guys don't have any contacts at Alphacool?
 

 

I edit my posts a lot, Twitter is @LordStreetguru just don't ask PC questions there mostly...
 

Spoiler

 

What is your budget/country for your new PC?

 

what monitor resolution/refresh rate?

 

What games or other software do you need to run?

 

 

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image.png.02f328ac578447f7fa923ca97c2c994f.png

 

Why Windshield Wiper Fluid and not Regular Coolant with AntiFreeze? Lower freezing point?

PLEASE QUOTE ME IF YOU ARE REPLYING TO ME

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Is it possible to use that to cool several PC's? Kinda like what they did in the old HQ

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A oil filled and sub zero chilled aquarium would solve the condensation problem9_9

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Or 3M Novec.

Or buying an air conditioning unit, set it to heat, let the cool exhaust air cool down air inside the case.

 

I seriously consider a cooling setup like the one in the video.

It's not loud at all. It cools really well. It is automated so wouldn't need eyes on it all the tiem.

Why don't you use this on the $100.000 PC? It might fit. Give the guys some more single core speed.

 

I would be interested to know what the single core result would be in cinebench if the CPU is overclocked.

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@AlexTheGreatish if there was ever a time to listen to my input, now is that time.

 

For my personal rig project I have done tonns of research and planning, over multiple years, for a build that original started as sub ambient via chiller just like the one you showed ,though more powerfull version. Then sub zero using a chiller like that modifed to bypass the 4c limit, and then finaly to what it is at now which is a completly scratch built custom subzero chiller project aiming for -40c coolant temps.

 

So things you need to know.

 

As you found out, those chillers all have a 4c minimum temp, however that can be bypassed to run sub zero.

 

HOWEVER

 

Those chillers nowdays use r134a refrigerant which has a boiling point of around -26c. The closer your target coolant temp gets to that the less efficient it is.

In the BEST possible case scenerio where the chiller is sucking in subzero air in the winter, the coolant will likely only ever get down to -15c. A more reasonable expected temp is -5c, with that temp getting lower the colder the chillers intake air is. This all asume the chillers compressor and condenser is capable of handling the heat load you place on it, which brings me on to the next point.

 

It is advised for prolonged use to massivly oversize the chiller. Whilst they are designed for constant use, they usualy only deal with large volumes water and ambient heat input plus other aqurium objects such as lighting and pumps.

 

Hailea do some of the cheapest chillers around and look remarkebly similar to the one you had, likely a rebrand. The HC1000 has an estimated 1650w cooling capacity (at ambient coolant temp targets, the lower your target the more power you need) and uses a full 1hp compressor. For serious OCing and high heat chips, with low target coolant temps,  this is the one i sugest.

 

Your 1/10 Hp version is likely an Hailea HC150 equivlalent which as an estimated cooling power of only 165w, which is not powerfull enough to sustain even ambient temperature coolant temperatures for most higher end CPUs. However it would be nice to see how long it takes for your System to overwhlem that chiller as it is now, perhaps in a later video ?

 

For short bursts of testing a small traditional res is fine, however the chiller will spend more time on.

For energy saving, a large (larger than that container you used) res is recommended with substantail insulation. It will take some time to get that amount of coolant down to temp, but once it is there the chiller shouldnt need to cycle on very often. This kind of setup requires the chiller to be on 24/7 so it can cycle on and off as is needed to keep the large rez at target temp. This means a PC will have instant cold chilled coolant on every startup.

 

Noise. The smaller chillers like the one you had are indeed rather quiet, however once you hit the 1/2hp mark, they get significantly louder.

 

Finaly.

Condensation protection ! You shoulda seen this coming a mile of.

 

Anyhoo a nice video to see, but i really think some more research was needed. As soon as linus mentioned subzero cooling with that chilelr, i said to myself.. "ha ! good luck with that, its got a 4c limit" That being said i know from experience that finding information on the use case of aquarium chillers on PC cooling, is  rather limited.

 

 

 

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Ahhh said same thing every time they've done Sub-zero stuff, why can't they just make a Chillbox setup, solves the Condensation issue, and even can pair it with Phase change!

 

Chillboxes for the uninitiated 

 

https://www.overclock.net/forum/133-phase-change/1533164-24-7-sub-zero-liquid-chillbox-club-84.html

Closed Sub-zero loop in a SEALED insulated box, running off the Evaporator of a Home AC or something similar.

This keeps the air below zero so any condensation that was in the box to begin with freezes on the Radiator inside the box

e6bbbfcc_IMG_20150807_233240.thumb.jpeg.2436590f04a9d521599fb1fe6ec19bbb.jpeg

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Cannibalizing this?

How about possibly in the $100,000 PC?

Seriously though, using that to cool every single part of the whole thing would be just awesome.

Who needs fancy graphics and high resolutions when you can get a 60 FPS frame rate on iGPUs?

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2 hours ago, rcmaehl said:

I'd like to point out a small single fan 120 air cooler could cool Threadripper, It's not that hot of a chip, but I'm not surprised at LTT's shenanigans at all *coughWholeRoomWaterCoolingcough*
 

 

// @seoz //

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i was considering buying an aquarium chiller for my aquarium. Does that mean i can link my aquarium to my PC?... J/K Obviously NO.

 

Aquariums are self-contained Bacterial ecosystems that will gunk up CPU blocks.  unless you want to run UV Filters Non-stop which is bad. Whole Room Water Cooling doesnt mention this, but UV Filters arent supposed to run 24/7. Aquarium users use it once in a while when they have algae or bacterial bloom(milky water)

 

BUT dont lose hope, you crazy people... what aquarium shops do is they use Stainless steel pipes that are bent into multiple S-bends then make a close loop of Clean Water passing through multiple aquariums side by side. they dont use copper since its a trace element for aquariums.. too much Snails die and Fish suffers.

so you can use a mixed metal loop for your PC or just use a stainless steel cold plate on your cpu. you lose some thermal conductivity but isnt the IHS already Stainless steel?

 

but at least you answered this post of mine. i knew it was effective.. but more entertaining to watch people gripe. and linus is impressed by aquarium chiller, so his frankenstein Chiller can end up in the scrapyard finally.

 

 

@AlexTheGreatish dont cannibalize that aquarium chiller, there's probably sound dampening stuff in the box. so you might sacrifice sound when you transfer components out.

what you could do is a sub-zero Desk Build with the chiller hidden and without worry about condensation. basically what @Neokolzia said above a chillbox in a desk PC

 

 

 

Oh i wasn't joking about buying an aquarium chiller. i may need it for shrimp keeping. Running the AC is easier but the temperature swings when i'm out during the day.
i closed my windows 24/7 to keep the cool air in. but aint ideal if i go overseas. Tropical Singapore

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5 hours ago, rcmaehl said:

 

2 hours ago, OrbitalBuzzsaw said:

// @seoz //

Fine in an AC office building with low ambient.

 

even with a 280mm AIO my 1950X was hitting 90C in a 38C shed in southern california.

Couldn't even record/render during the day in summer. A chiller would be pretty nice, but is far too expensive to be worth it.

I edit my posts a lot, Twitter is @LordStreetguru just don't ask PC questions there mostly...
 

Spoiler

 

What is your budget/country for your new PC?

 

what monitor resolution/refresh rate?

 

What games or other software do you need to run?

 

 

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5 hours ago, rcmaehl said:

image.png.02f328ac578447f7fa923ca97c2c994f.png

 

Why Windshield Wiper Fluid and not Regular Coolant with AntiFreeze? Lower freezing point?

Washer fluid is propylene glycol ethanol or methanol and distilled water with a surfactant. Antifreeze is ethylene glycol and distilled water with no surfactants. The surfactant helps with bleeding the loop, and washer fluid can be disposed of down most drain systems (check with your local authorities), whereas antifreeze requires special disposal, handling, and cleanup.

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12 minutes ago, brandishwar said:

Washer fluid is propylene glycol and distilled water with a surfactant. Antifreeze is ethylene glycol and distilled water with no surfactants. The surfactant helps with bleeding the loop, and it can be disposed of down most drain systems (check with your local authorities), whereas antifreeze requires special disposal - basically just give it over to an auto shop. At least they went with the good washer fluid instead of the cheap blue stuff.

https://www.rainx.com/safety-data-sheets/

 

The data sheet mentions

2-Butoxyethanol and  Isopropanol

Can Anybody Link A Virtual Machine while I go download some RAM?

 

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1 minute ago, unijab said:

https://www.rainx.com/safety-data-sheets/

 

The data sheet mentions

2-Butoxyethanol and  Isopropanol

Yeah I decided to dig a little to make sure. Propylene glycol is used (or used to be used) in some de-icing washer fluids, but Rain-X and Prestone use alcohols - ethanol, methanol, or isopropyl alcohol depending on the formulation.

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My build: Mira - Ryzen 7 3700X, 32GB EVGA DDR4-3200, ASUS Prime X470-PRO, EVGA RTX 3070 XC3, beQuiet Dark Base 900, EVGA 1000 G6

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5 hours ago, AnonymousGuy said:

He bought a fountain pump.  They are meant to circulate water with zero resistance, they are not pressure pumps which is what you need for watercooling.  This guy is supposedly an engineer and swear to fucking god he doesn't know how to read specs or *be* an engineer.  Every video is some fuckup that was prevantable.

 

Second, there's no point in running antifreeze because the chiller won't go below about 1C anyways unless you hack around the thermocouple in it.

 

Third, 580W is pussy shit.  I drew that much power on a 7700K on chilled water with 1.6V pushing for 5.5Ghz.  You should have saved this video for a CPU that can actually overclock, like the upcoming 28C HEDT.  In any case you need the bigger Hailea-HC2000 to not run out of chilling capacity.  This one is a baby unit.

 

Fourth, no you should not attempt to integrate this into a desktop system.  It's too loud to live with, you're not going to make it more compact than it already is, and it's meant to run with a large reservoir for a reason.

I don't think you understand the point of the video. 

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If there was a chiller of this nature closer to $200 I'd be willing to give it a shot. Over 300 is a bit much when that could get me halfway to another 1080ti.

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17 hours ago, rcmaehl said:

image.png.02f328ac578447f7fa923ca97c2c994f.png

 

Why Windshield Wiper Fluid and not Regular Coolant with AntiFreeze? Lower freezing point?

Easier disposal for one

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4 hours ago, Rune said:

If there was a chiller of this nature closer to $200 I'd be willing to give it a shot. Over 300 is a bit much when that could get me halfway to another 1080ti.

The 1/2 HP model is a much better deal IMO

Can Anybody Link A Virtual Machine while I go download some RAM?

 

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4 hours ago, Rune said:

If there was a chiller of this nature closer to $200 I'd be willing to give it a shot. Over 300 is a bit much when that could get me halfway to another 1080ti.

 

The intial outlay is indeed high, especialy for the size that you would actually need, the one in this video is underpowered and wouldnt hold up to continued use especialy at low target temperatures.

The smallest i have seen a few (its not very common) people use is the HC500, which is  1/2 hp version. Good enough for sub ambient temps on a regular OC'ed system, but struggles with very low temps at high heat loads, and most certainly isnt good enough for extreme OC'ing with SLI setups as it has an estimated cooling capacity of about 790w. They come in around £380 at cheapest, up to £550 from more well known places especialy in the PC cooling scene.

 

A HC2200 2hp version , the most powerfull version hailea do, costs at cheapest £750-800 if you really go searching for it, other places have it up for up to £1200.

However that monster can handle anything you could throw at it with ease with an estimated heat capacity of 3300w, especialy if you ensure the sub model you get uses a refrigerant other than 134a, like r22 and r407c, and then bypass the 4c temp limit. Unlike 134a which only has a boiling point of around -26c making if not very usfull for subzero chilling, r22 and r407c, the former being phased out due to environmental concerns, have boiling points of -41c and -44c.

 

Intial outlay is indeed high compared to just using radiator ambient cooling, but most certianly not as high as it could be, these chillers are cheap in comparison to most, but they still make light work of PC cooling so long as you get a suitably powerfull model.

 

If it were not for the fact that i've decided to go full subzero in my future project, i would use one of these chillers. Alass due to the cost of the HC2200 and its theorised lowest temps with thermocouple bypass (not to mention being a PITA to find a suplier that has the r22/407 version), it would be better for me to just build a system myself using plate heat exchangers and Propene (r-1270 -47c) as a refrigerant as it would cost as much but perform better.

 

 

CPU: Intel i7 3930k w/OC & EK Supremacy EVO Block | Motherboard: Asus P9x79 Pro  | RAM: G.Skill 4x4 1866 CL9 | PSU: Seasonic Platinum 1000w Corsair RM 750w Gold (2021)|

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