Liquid cooling solution tips?

[Favebook]

Hello everyone!

 

I am looking to build a liquid cooling system and I should note that I am doing this for the first time, but I am confident I can do it alone.

I am looking to liquid cool my GPU(rx 580 red devil 8gb as noted in Title), CPU(i7 8700k) and Motherboard(Z370 AORUS Gaming 7(rev. 1.0)).

 

Now, I think I have a solution for my CPU and Motherboard and that would be: EK-FB GA Z270/Z370 GAMING RGB Monoblock - Nickel.

 

However, the only solution I found for my GPU is: EK-VGA Supremacy. 

Firstly, I am not entirely sure if it will be good enough since it is not a full cover and I cannot seem to find the full cover.

Secondly, I heard that mixing materials is not a good thing, but my GPU cooling is cooper based and CPU/Mobo cooling is Nickel based, is that going to make a problem in long terms?

 

Additionally, I plan to go for hard-line tubing, personally I would love to go for Acrylic or glass tubes and I would like to hear your ideas for that solution.

 

If someone has already built similar cooling systems, I would love to see some pictures, especially for GPU.

 

Here is the full specification list of my system:

Case: Carbide Series SPEC-OMEGA RGB Mid-Tower

Mobo: Z370 AORUS Gaming 7 (rev. 1.0)

CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-8700K Processor

GPU: PowerColor Red Devil Radeon™ RX 580 8GB

RAM(yet to buy):  VENGEANCE® RGB PRO 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3600MHz   (not sure if I should go for white or black version).

[jj9987]

Nickel and copper together is fine, the nickel is just a coating. Just don't mix aluminium there.

That block covers only the GPU die, you still need cooling for VRM and the memory modules.

[Daniel644]

Honestly take the money you would WASTE on Glass Tubing and other parts and put that into a GPU that is powerful enough to deserve water cooling then do something like the Fluid Gaming kit with a compatible GPU.

 

Your system is extremely unbalanced with a HIGHEND CPU and wastefully fast RAM then a lower mid tier GPU.

 

that said Nickel Plated and Copper is not an issue, the Nickel Plating actually goes OVER copper to protect it from oxidizing, it's ALUMINUM you don't want to mix with copper.

[Favebook]

7 minutes ago, jj9987 said:

Nickel and copper together is fine, the nickel is just a coating. Just don't mix aluminium there.

That block covers only the GPU die, you still need cooling for VRM and the memory modules.

Thank you for info.

I figured I would need additional cooling for them. Do you have any solution?

[Favebook]

3 minutes ago, Daniel644 said:

Honestly take the money you would WASTE on Glass Tubing and other parts and put that into a GPU that is powerful enough to deserve water cooling then do something like the Fluid Gaming kit with a compatible GPU.

 

Your system is extremely unbalanced with a HIGHEND CPU and wastefully fast RAM.

 

that said Nickel Plated and Copper is not an issue, the Nickel Plating actually goes OVER copper to protect it from oxidizing, it's ALUMINUM you don't want to mix with copper.

Thank you for your opinion. But I have already set my mind on hard-line tubing.

And since I still haven't bought the RAM and I can still put this GPU to my mining rig and buy a new one, what is your suggestion for RAM and GPU?

[Daniel644]

1 minute ago, Favebook said:

Thank you for your opinion. But I have already set my mind on hard-line tubing.

And since I still haven't bought the RAM and I can still put this GPU to my mining rig and buy a new one, what is your suggestion for RAM and GPU?

I would go 1080ti if you have the budget for it, if not 1070ti/1080 or a Vega 56 (which can be flashed and perform very close to a Vega 64), the trick is to check and see if there is a block for the specific model you are looking at before ordering, or just buy a Founders based card as you know they have blocks for them.

 

this would make for a more balanced system, for RAM unless you just NEED the RGB the Flare-X F4-3200C14D-16GFX has MUCH better timings, if you NEED that RGB the Trident Z F4-3200C14D-16GTZR has the better timings of the Flare X but will cost more then the kit you linked, you can save a good bit going up to the CL15 3000Mhz  ram like the F4-3000C15D-16GTZR instead of CL14 timings in the 3200Mhz ram and not see much if any difference in anything, once you get beyond that it's a very high diminishing returns performance wise.

[Limecat86]

5 hours ago, Favebook said:

Thank you for your opinion. But I have already set my mind on hard-line tubing.

And since I still haven't bought the RAM and I can still put this GPU to my mining rig and buy a new one, what is your suggestion for RAM and GPU?

Well if you have your mind set on hardtubing then go with Acrylic or PETG. Much easier to cut and you can bend it using a heat gun.

 

[Favebook]

19 hours ago, Daniel644 said:

I would go 1080ti if you have the budget for it, if not 1070ti/1080 or a Vega 56 (which can be flashed and perform very close to a Vega 64), the trick is to check and see if there is a block for the specific model you are looking at before ordering, or just buy a Founders based card as you know they have blocks for them.

 

this would make for a more balanced system, for RAM unless you just NEED the RGB the Flare-X F4-3200C14D-16GFX has MUCH better timings, if you NEED that RGB the Trident Z F4-3200C14D-16GTZR has the better timings of the Flare X but will cost more then the kit you linked, you can save a good bit going up to the CL15 3000Mhz  ram like the F4-3000C15D-16GTZR instead of CL14 timings in the 3200Mhz ram and not see much if any difference in anything, once you get beyond that it's a very high diminishing returns performance wise.

1080ti is way out of my budget currently as supply of those in my country is way too low therefore the price is rocketing. 1070ti might be the perfect solution or if I find a cheaper 1080. And about RAM, I am making a full RGB-Liquid cooling system, so RGB is therefore a MUST. However I am not sure if Trident Z F4-3200C14D-16GTZR is compatible with corsair iCue. And if it isn't should I go for corsair's 3000Mhz?

13 hours ago, Limecat86 said:

Well if you have your mind set on hardtubing then go with Acrylic or PETG. Much easier to cut and you can bend it using a heat gun.

 

I want the liquid to be as visible as possible. So I am thinking glass or Acrylic. However there is a limited number of suppliers for glass tubes and I am not sure what fittings I would even use. So Acrylic might be the best solution. Do you have any prefered supplier that you can recommend? 

[Daniel644]

5 hours ago, Favebook said:

1080ti is way out of my budget currently as supply of those in my country is way too low therefore the price is rocketing. 1070ti might be the perfect solution or if I find a cheaper 1080. And about RAM, I am making a full RGB-Liquid cooling system, so RGB is therefore a MUST. However I am not sure if Trident Z F4-3200C14D-16GTZR is compatible with corsair iCue. And if it isn't should I go for corsair's 3000Mhz?

I want the liquid to be as visible as possible. So I am thinking glass or Acrylic. However there is a limited number of suppliers for glass tubes and I am not sure what fittings I would even use. So Acrylic might be the best solution. Do you have any prefered supplier that you can recommend? 

it's not just about the speed of the memory, you gotta look at the timings, if you go Corsair try to find one that is CAS LATENCY 14 at the 3,000Mhz, from what I saw none of the modules you linked from Corsair had timings that good.

[Favebook]

15 hours ago, Daniel644 said:

it's not just about the speed of the memory, you gotta look at the timings, if you go Corsair try to find one that is CAS LATENCY 14 at the 3,000Mhz, from what I saw none of the modules you linked from Corsair had timings that good.

What you are saying is entirely true. But I still think that my RGB sync is a little bit more important than 0.6ns (as far as my calculation goes) faster RAM.

But I really thank you for your opinion and this gave me some really good insights for my next builds!

[Daniel644]

16 minutes ago, Favebook said:

What you are saying is entirely true. But I still think that my RGB sync is a little bit more important than 0.6ns (as far as my calculation goes) faster RAM.

But I really thank you for your opinion and this gave me some really good insights for my next builds!

not sure about where you are but this kit CMW16GX4M2C3000C15 is the same kit as the 3600Mhz you posted but at 3,000Mhz with CAS Latency 15, not as good as the G. Skill CL14 kits but at least here it's like $45 USD cheaper (about 20% cheaper) then the 3600 Mhz kit and you won't be able to tell the difference unless you are gaming at 1080p or lower resoutions and you get the iCue compatible memory you like.

[Favebook]

5 hours ago, Daniel644 said:

not sure about where you are but this kit CMW16GX4M2C3000C15 is the same kit as the 3600Mhz you posted but at 3,000Mhz with CAS Latency 15, not as good as the G. Skill CL14 kits but at least here it's like $45 USD cheaper (about 20% cheaper) then the 3600 Mhz kit and you won't be able to tell the difference unless you are gaming at 1080p or lower resoutions and you get the iCue compatible memory you like.

Yeah, I planned for go for that one or 3200Mhz CL16

[Limecat86]

On 26-6-2018 at 2:39 PM, Favebook said:

I want the liquid to be as visible as possible. So I am thinking glass or Acrylic. However there is a limited number of suppliers for glass tubes and I am not sure what fittings I would even use. So Acrylic might be the best solution. Do you have any prefered supplier that you can recommend? 

I use Bitspower Crystral link 12mm for tubing. For fittings I use the EK-HDC (for 12mm of course, there is also one for 16mm).

Bitspower also makes fittings so you might want to check with them. Their fittings are considered one of the best.

 

If you ever feel the tubing is losing clarity over time then you could always polish them with Plast-X or something equivalent and a microfiber cloth.

[Favebook]

On 6/28/2018 at 1:00 AM, Limecat86 said:

I use Bitspower Crystral link 12mm for tubing. For fittings I use the EK-HDC (for 12mm of course, there is also one for 16mm).

Bitspower also makes fittings so you might want to check with them. Their fittings are considered one of the best.

 

If you ever feel the tubing is losing clarity over time then you could always polish them with Plast-X or something equivalent and a microfiber cloth.

Thank you very much!

 

However now I have a new question. Will one 360 radiator(I am not even sure if I can use a second one in my case) be enough for GPU and CPU overclocked? Also, since I am making my custom liquid loop for the first time, don't hate me for asking. But if I put tubes in this order:Pump>CPU>GPU>Radiator. Will the GPU be a little bit hotter? If so, what should I do? Do you guys have any suggestions?

[Lathlaer]

18 minutes ago, Favebook said:

But if I put tubes in this order:Pump>CPU>GPU>Radiator. Will the GPU be a little bit hotter? If so, what should I do? Do you guys have any suggestions?

The order of the loop is largely inconsequencial performance-wise as long as you always have reservoir above the pump (ie. pump isn't in the risk of losing the coolant and breaking).

[Favebook]

On 7/5/2018 at 9:53 PM, Lathlaer said:

The order of the loop is largely inconsequencial performance-wise as long as you always have reservoir above the pump (ie. pump isn't in the risk of losing the coolant and breaking).

Alright, thanks for info. But I still need to know if one 360mm radiator will be enough for those two...