250V 6A On/Off Switch on 48v 25A E-bike?

[Snikerdoodlz]

I've been thinking about adding a hardware on/off switch to the wire circuit on my electric bicycle, but I haven't yet found a suitable switch. However, today I found a 6A 250V switch at a garage sale. My ebike pulls up to 25A at 54V, but I usually draw no more than 13A at cruising speed. Will this switch work, or will it cut off at 6A no matter the voltage?

[Electronics Wizardy]

You need a switch that can handle much more current.

 

Also is that switch rated in ac or dc?

 

The switch will 'work' but that much current it will melt or arch when switched. Switch don't just stop working when used over max current.

[Snikerdoodlz]

6 minutes ago, Electronics Wizardy said:

You need a switch that can handle much more current.

 

Also is that switch rated in ac or dc?

 

The switch will 'work' but that much current it will melt or arch when switched. Switch don't just stop working when used over max current.

It doesn't specify AC or DC. Also, to my understanding 6A * 250V = 1500W and 54V * 25A = 1350W. Even at max load my bike pulls less wattage than the switch is rated for, but you say that the current will destroy it. Does a switch's rated current not also go with its voltage to determine maximum rated wattage, or does current only matter for switches? 

[Snikerdoodlz]

23 minutes ago, Electronics Wizardy said:

Also is that switch rated in ac or dc?

Actually I think that it's AC. It has 3 prongs. I was looking on Amazon and I saw DC-rated switches that only had 2 terminals. So it's useless

[Electronics Wizardy]

41 minutes ago, Snikerdoodlz said:

It doesn't specify AC or DC. Also, to my understanding 6A * 250V = 1500W and 54V * 25A = 1350W. Even at max load my bike pulls less wattage than the switch is rated for, but you say that the current will destroy it. Does a switch's rated current not also go with its voltage to determine maximum rated wattage, or does current only matter for switches? 

You can look at wattage for switches, it doesnlt work that way.

 

You switch needs to have the rating for voltage and current higher than the use case.

23 minutes ago, Snikerdoodlz said:

Actually I think that it's AC. It has 3 prongs. I was looking on Amazon and I saw DC-rated switches that only had 2 terminals. So it's useless

prong count makes not differnce. The ac vs dc switch is for the arc made when switching.

 

[Snikerdoodlz]

4 minutes ago, Electronics Wizardy said:

You can look at wattage for switches, it doesnlt work that way.

Sorry, your wording is a bit confusing. You can or can't look at wattage for switches?

[Electronics Wizardy]

2 minutes ago, Snikerdoodlz said:

Sorry, your wording is a bit confusing. You can or can't look at wattage for switches?

can't.

 

you need a switch that is over 60v and 25a and dc rated.

[Snikerdoodlz]

1 minute ago, Electronics Wizardy said:

can't.

 

you need a switch that is over 60v and 25a and dc rated.

Gotcha. Thanks for your help!

[TheKDub]

1 hour ago, Snikerdoodlz said:

I've been thinking about adding a hardware on/off switch to the wire circuit on my electric bicycle, but I haven't yet found a suitable switch. However, today I found a 6A 250V switch at a garage sale. My ebike pulls up to 25A at 54V, but I usually draw no more than 13A at cruising speed. Will this switch work, or will it cut off at 6A no matter the voltage?

Would not recommend using that switch, it'd end up melting if you tried pulling that much current through it.

 

As Electronics Wizardy said, go with something >60v 25a DC capable.

[grimreeper132]

Something like these two would do

 

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/non-fused-switch-disconnectors/0416742/

 

(more, expensive but has a case and looks so much cooler, as you can wire the 0V into it as well to cut the 0V off to the bike as well as your 48V supply)

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/non-fused-switch-disconnectors/3307859/

 

[artuc]

What's the purpose ?

 

There's not really much available that would suit a bike.

 

Due to the current involved any switch/isolator or relay/solenoid will be massive.

 

There may be other options depending what you're trying to do.

7 hours ago, grimreeper132 said:

more, expensive but has a case and looks so much cooler, as you can wire the 0V into it as well to cut the 0V off to the bike as well as your 48V supply)

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/non-fused-switch-disconnectors/3307859/

Look at the dimensions. It's an industrial footprint, it's massive and would look ridiculous on a bike. 

[grimreeper132]

3 hours ago, artuc said:

 

Look at the dimensions. It's an industrial footprint, it's massive and would look ridiculous on a bike. 

One of them yes the other less so, but anyways it would you just gotta believe it will then it will. Also you can open one of them up and take the important part the switch out, as it is about 8cm*8cm*10cm roughly